using wheels instead of mobile base for saw?

[Stephen White]

OK finally putting sawstop contractor saw together. When I ordered it it just didn't seem like I needed the saw to be mobile but now as I put together my shop I can see that depending on what I am working on I want to be able to move stuff around easily. I also ordered a Jet drum sander at the same time and I popped for the wheels for it.

I know I could make my own but don't want to so looking at options.

The mobile base made specifically for my sawstop is $250 shipped and taxed. Lowe's has a universal one from Bora for $60 that seems OK

What I am wondering is why not just put some nice heavy duty locking wheels where the stands are now. Anybody else just put locking wheels on their contractors saw and if yes is it fine to work with?

[Andy D Jones]

Don't know which version of SS you have, but that model Portamate, rated for 400 lbs, may not handle the weight of your saw, particularly if you add a router table extension, etc. The next one up (3500 series) handles 1500 lbs. Even if under the limit, like most things, being near the weight limit is not a place you want to be.

Even locking swivel casters do not lock solid like machine feet. And depending on what the base looks like, it may not be designed to handle the additional leverage at the mounting point if you replace its feet with swivel casters, from being 4+ inches off the ground, and dynamic vs static loads (rolling it around, sliding heavy stock across it, etc.), not to mention raising the saw's working height by that much.

I think you will be happier with a heavier duty mobile base from Bora or SS.

Note there are versions of Bora's mobile bases that "roll and steer", and those that roll in any direction, with 4 swivel casters. I have one that rolls and steers on my Unisaw with 52" fence, and rolling it in and out of it's former storage spot against the wall took a lot more working room than if I had a mobile base with 4 swivel wheels, where I could just roll it broadside up to (or out from) the wall.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[ChrisA Edwards]

I second the use of the Bora Portmate 2500 and 3500 series. I have them under most of my tools.

[Matt Day]

I like the grizzly bear crawl bases.

[Stephen White]

Yeah I think you are right, I'm showing what a rookie I am by asking. Never going to be as solid on the wheels and raising it up like that prob bad too.

Great input on the 4 swivel. I started looking at the integrated one and the 3500 and didn't really pay attention to that and would have hated the two stationary wheels. My spot is tight and yeah definitely want all 4 wheels to be 360 swivel. That means the Bora 3500 with 4 swivel wheels it is!

Saved $50 and got the right one, Thanks!

[Stephen White]

will check them out as well, thanks!

[Bill Dufour]

I am 6'2' so raising tools up is a good thing to me. On my tablesaw I threw away the plinth and made a taller base with bigger wheels and toe room under.
Bill D

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I’m not sure if this is what you’re looking for but thought I’d share what I did for mine.

I bought a used Unisaw (with 52” side table) that had a mobile base but the fixed casters on one end making it difficult to move.
I changed them out with a couple of the ones in the pic below (ordered from HD).
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They work great!
434711

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I also raised the overall height.

[Doug Dawson]

Yeah I think you are right, I'm showing what a rookie I am by asking. Never going to be as solid on the wheels and raising it up like that prob bad too.

Great input on the 4 swivel. I started looking at the integrated one and the 3500 and didn't really pay attention to that and would have hated the two stationary wheels. My spot is tight and yeah definitely want all 4 wheels to be 360 swivel. That means the Bora 3500 with 4 swivel wheels it is!

Saved $50 and got the right one, Thanks!

Be aware that the 3550 has very limited ground clearance, so might be an issue on uneven floors (as are mine) while the 3500 and 2500 are less so. Having the machine hung up on a slight hump in the floor is every bit as annoying as having to switchback it around, IMO.

Honestly, I think the 2500 would do the job for the SS Contractor’s. They appear to be conservatively rated, not cheap Chinese trash.

Also, whatever you decide, check the base for level, it can tilt the machine, you may have to shim it; particularly important for the 2500.

[Rod Sheridan]

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I find the best design is a semi-live skid type.

Two conventional wheels on one end that raises the machine about 1/4" above the floor and two adjustable feet on the other end. Extremely stable and cost effective.

A simple tow bar moves it around, you need one tow bar for your entire shop.

Here are a couple of photographs of what I.ve done......Regards, Rod

[Bobby Robbinett]

Nothing wrong with using typical locking casters. I have dozens of my machines on homemade bases that use 2x4 frames glued and screwed over 2x12 bottoms glued and screwed with cheap $3.99 locking casters from Harbor Freight that can handle 175lbs each. That is 650lbs if support and has handled all but my largest machines and would handle a UniSaw just fine. They do raise the machine up a good bit but I am 6’3” and find it better with the increased height. I have 8” steel casters on my wide belt. If I were you I would build a 2x4 frame and use 2x12’s on the bottom glued and screwed to the frame and pick up some 3” heavy duty locking casters from Harbor Freight. Also so the same for your extension on the far right side so that everything is stable and evenly distributed.