Workbench End Vise Help

[Bill Dindner]

Hi,

I am currently building Jay Bates take on a Roubo style workbench. Using Douglas Fir for the construction. I’d like to add and end vise with 2 rows of dog holes. I’m looking at the Sjoberg Elite vise, just a few questions.

1)Should I install a flat board at the end of the bench so the end vise clamps on that instead of the end grain? If yes, how to account for wood movement?

2) I’m going to have a Leg Vise with a sliding dead man, I think the End vise will give me everything I need, any thoughts?

3) anyone have any experience with that vice, or can recommend something else?

[Jim Becker]

I can't help you with that vice specifically, but to your question about the end-block, you fasten it just like you would for a bread-board end. I'd do a fixed fastener in the middle and have elongated holes for the fasteners out towards the bench edges. Bolts with washers can slide in those elongaged holes as seasonal movement occurs.

[Bill Dindner]

I can't help you with that vice specifically, but to your question about the end-block, you fasten it just like you would for a bread-board end. I'd do a fixed fastener in the middle and have elongated holes for the fasteners out towards the bench edges. Bolts with washers can slide in those elongaged holes as seasonal movement occurs.


Thanks, I guess that's what I will do, better safe than sorry

[Jon Nuckles]

Many Roubo style benches dovetail the end cap to the front board of the top, which is left longer to accommodate the joinery. The rest of it gets attached like a breadboard end with provision to allow movement as Jim Becker described. Whatever method you choose to attach, I would fix the front and force any misalignment of the bench top and end cap as a result of wood movement to the back. Using a leg vise and a deadman, you want the end cap flush with the front of your bench so it doesn’t interfere with clamping long pieces in the leg vise.

[Derek Cohen]

As Jim and Jon note, a breadboard end locks the end cap to the bench top.

For details of this, go here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench3.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench3_html_2fde45c5.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench3_html_15ae5232.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench3_html_m1e14a54.jpg

... and here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4_html_6a83b466.jpg

You can see the mortice for the breadboard at the rear ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4_html_m2ccf9ff0.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4_html_3193f19f.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

John's point about fixed fastening at the bench front is sound, considering how we use benches including the whole front edge sometimes.

Derek, those are quite the dovetails!

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Jim :)

Here's the other end of the bench. The front has metal inserts to enable a planing stop to function. A breadboard is unnecessary here ...

https://i.postimg.cc/2SSCkVhQ/End-stop1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4N5JRz74/End-stop2.jpg

Edit to add: the rear of the planing stop is lined with cork-rubber. This creates a great and gentle non-slip.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

That's a really good idea with that stop like that, Derek. Very functional and always "just the right height".

[Bill Dindner]

Derek, Love that Idea, I think I will include that as well.

Thanks so much

[Tom Bender]

To attach the fixed jaw to my bench I used long screws into end grain. The center ones were in correct sized holes. The holes nearer the ends were special. Thru the jaw they were properly sized but into the bench top they were oversized for 4" then the correct size for the threaded portion. Those screws are 1/4" x 8" and they can flex.

[Andy D Jones]

Tom, that's a good idea. And it can also be applied to the prior suggestion to fix the front fastening(s), and float the center and rear ones, to keep the front end flush with the front edge of the top.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Derek Cohen]

Hi,

I am currently building Jay Bates take on a Roubo style workbench. Using Douglas Fir for the construction. I’d like to add and end vise with 2 rows of dog holes. I’m looking at the Sjoberg Elite vise, just a few questions.

1)Should I install a flat board at the end of the bench so the end vise clamps on that instead of the end grain? If yes, how to account for wood movement?

2) I’m going to have a Leg Vise with a sliding dead man, I think the End vise will give me everything I need, any thoughts?

3) anyone have any experience with that vice, or can recommend something else?

Bill, I installed a BenchCrafted wagon/end vise when I built this bench 8 years ago. It was one of the best things I did. Great, great vise.

The leg vise I designed and built around a wooden screw. If I did it again, I would use the BenchCrafted leg vise. The wooden screw is excellent, but a steel screw offers a little more precision.

A sliding deadman is important, and works best with a Veritas hold down ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece2_html_m1dd9ab31.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Wurster]

Bill, I installed a BenchCrafted wagon/end vise when I built this bench 8 years ago. It was one of the best things I did. Great, great vise.

The leg vise I designed and built around a wooden screw. If I did it again, I would use the BenchCrafted leg vise. The wooden screw is excellent, but a steel screw offers a little more precision.


I'm in the early stages of building myself a new workbench and I'm going with a Benchcrafted Leg vise as well (Classic model). I don't have the horizontal room for a wagon vise (~5 foot long bench, tight basement shop), but if I did then I would want to go with the Benchcrafted version. It requires something like 18" of overhang though, and I just can't make that work. I'll be going with surface-based accessories instead, like holdfasts, bench dogs, and a Veritas wonder dog. I also plan on looking into doing that end-based planing stop like you have, Derek. I'm not much of a hand-tool woodworker, but I want to increase my skills in that area.

[Kristi L Bilyeu]

Have you looked at the Turbo Twin Vise that Andy Klein designed and makes? I’ve heard good things about it, but I don’t know enough about the other vises to say which would be better.

[Bill Dindner]

Have you looked at the Turbo Twin Vise that Andy Klein designed and makes? I’ve heard good things about it, but I don’t know enough about the other vises to say which would be better.


looks cool, it’s more expensive, complicated to build, and hasn’t been around for all that long. I really like the looks of it, but I’d rather stick with a classic proven design.