Starrett 24" Bevelled Straight Edge. Series 385, or 386? Advice please.

[Theo Hall]

Hello all,

I am looking for advice to help me decide on which Starrett 24" Bevelled Straight Edge to buy.
I gather the main difference between the 385-24 and the 386-24, is the thickness. The 385 is 4.4mm, the 386 is 2.4mm.

Does anybody have experience with either. I wonder if the 4.4mm may be slightly more stable over time.
For what it's worth, Lie Nielsen carry the 386-24 (thinner variant) as their sole Starrett straight edge.

Any advice would be gratefully received
Thanks

[Bob Jones 5443]

The 386 model is better suited for a drafting table but perhaps more likely to bend along its length, even as it remains straight along its edge.

The 385 model is a stand-alone datum edge on machines and stock in the workshop. In normal use you won't see it bend. Here's my 385-24 standing easily on edge.

434515

The bevel edge is nice and slim and perfect for looking for light gaps between it and the tool or work, except that it doesn't stand on its own that way, of course. I made two blocks to enable it to stand hands-free on the work:

434516 434517

Neither model has graduations. The choice depends on whether you want to use it in the house or in the shop.

[Doug Dawson]

Hello all,

I am looking for advice to help me decide on which Starrett 24" Bevelled Straight Edge to buy.
I gather the main difference between the 385-24 and the 386-24, is the thickness. The 385 is 4.4mm, the 386 is 2.4mm.

Does anybody have experience with either. I wonder if the 4.4mm may be slightly more stable over time.
For what it's worth, Lie Nielsen carry the 386-24 (thinner variant) as their sole Starrett straight edge.

Any advice would be gratefully received
Thanks

Go with the thicker one (the 385.) It’s more useful. Handle it with gloves (preferably white cotton,) it rusts with skin contact. It’s a precision instrument.

[Jim Matthews]

These are expensive.

As mentioned above: they're for machine tooling.

As a handtool woodworker, they are orders of magnitude more precise than absolutely necessary.

Seeking precision like this will slow most joinery and planing steps to a crawl if it is your standard.

A standard 24" box beam level from Stanley is adequate, robust and affordable by comparison.

http://www.walkemooretools.com/winding-sticks/

[Theo Hall]

These are expensive.

As mentioned above: they're for machine tooling.

As a handtool woodworker, they are orders of magnitude more precise than absolutely necessary.

Seeking precision like this will slow most joinery and planing steps to a crawl if it is your standard.

A standard 24" box beam level from Stanley is adequate, robust and affordable by comparison.

http://www.walkemooretools.com/winding-sticks/

I will use these straight edges for the absolute precision set-up of musical instruments, with a few thous of an inch accuracy.

[Theo Hall]

Thank you for all other replies so far. I would be very grateful to hear from any owners of either the 385 or 386, and their experience with them.

[Jim Matthews]

I will use these straight edges for the absolute precision set-up of musical instruments, with a few thous of an inch accuracy.
Will you be making these, entirely by hand?

[Brian Holcombe]

Look at Suburban Tool. Top quality. I had a Starrett for all of two days, arrived and returned.

[Theo Hall]

Will you be making these, entirely by hand?

Yes, I do. For the most part a straight edge this accurate is perhaps not necessary.

However, for the job of setting the neck angle, and thus the string heights, it is absolutely necessary given that I work to about 3 thou/inch accuracy.

[Theo Hall]

Look at Suburban Tool. Top quality. I had a Starrett for all of two days, arrived and returned.
Thank you, I certainly will. May I ask why you returned the STarrett?

[Orlando Gonzalez]

I have the Starrett 380 Series which is like the 385, except that it's not beveled, in 12"- 18"- 24"- 36"- 48" in the 4.4mm thickness. It's stable and precise. I use them for layout and tool set up. However, as has been stated above, it will rust with skin contact.

[Jim Matthews]

Gotcha.

I saw a video from Michael Greenfield on the topic.

[Doug Dawson]

Thank you, I certainly will. May I ask why you returned the STarrett?

I’m not Brian, but in an earlier thread on this subject he stated that it was because of shipping damage from Starrett. If you order it from some place like amazon, you can specify that it be shipped in a box (gift status, say.)

[Mike Kreinhop]

I bought the 386-24 because I had used one for two weeks and liked it because of the hole for hanging it on a wall. I found one on Amazon for under $50 and snapped it up. It came in the Starrett thin cardboard wrapping packed in a heavy cardboard mailing tube.

[Brian Holcombe]

It had a curve to it, which was bothersome to me.

[Theo Hall]

It had a curve to it, which was bothersome to me.

You were right to return it, in that case!

May I ask, can you remember whether this was the 385 or 386 (thinner) version?

[Brian Holcombe]

It was 6’ so I think there is only one size of thickness available.

[david charlesworth]

I have used the 386 for many years, as have many of my students.
I have wooden blocks to keep it vertical, and move ends from sided to side to identify bumps.
It is superb, I would not like a thicker or heavier one.

Finally mine is plated, which means no rust, which is very important.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I have a 72" stainless steel straight edge, maker was B & H Specialties (USA), guaranteed total range of .005" over full length. Thickness is 1/8". Bought it several decades ago from either McMaster-Carr or MSC and I remember it costing me around $100.00, and was worth every penny.

A straight edge is one of those tools that should last you the rest of your working years. That was why I opted for the 72" years ago. I do have a couple of wooden straight edges that I've made-easy to check and easy to true and for most things, they're fine

[Erich Weidner]

What about the Veritas straight edges. Anodized aluminum. No rust, not too heavy. I have two lengths. If they aren't flat I don't know what flat is. :) (Or, if they aren't flat. They are beyond flat enough for me).

[Will Blick]

Well, straight edge costs are a function of the metal type, thickness and their guarantee of tolerance... adding a few thou of tolerance makes the price go up 5x ;)
I have the 6ft Starett.... its crazy expensive, about $600+
380-72 Steel Straight Edge
But at Accuracy (in):
± .0002” per foot,
its about as straight as your gonna get. So about .001" over entire length


For my 8ft long jointer, its a dream tool for accurate set up. Getting that first side and edge FLAT, is something I do obsess about. Not required for all ww tasks for sure...
I have many of the smaller Veritas ones which I love for plane bottom flattening.... love the fact the Alum does not rust.