Thoughts on minor repair (?) to my drill press

[Mike Manning]

I was using my old Craftsman 15" 12-speed drill press this week to make some clamp racks for the shop. I've had it a long time. I've known since I bought it used off CL decades ago that I needed to lubricate the mechanism to lower and raise the table. Somehow though I just never got around to it. Even though cranking the handle was a bear I was always able to get it moved the few inches I needed. Everything seemed like it always was on Thursday until it wasn't. I just wasn't able to crank it down then I saw the "rack" had bent outward from the column below the table. See the pic. I'm hoping I can put some type of collar or clamp in a couple of places such as near both ends of the distortion. I don't believe I'll ever need to use the drill press with the table that low anyway. My first thought after putting the bailing wire back up was to try some large hose clamps but I'm not sure they'll be strong enough particularly when I lower the table. If I had some that large in the shop I would have tried it anyway. This is a model 113.213850. Made in Taiwan. I am guessing it's a late 70's or 80's model. If I could buy a new rack I might just do that but I highly doubt I could find the part. Anyone got any thoughts on clamping the distorted portion of the rack to the column in such as manner as to actually "fix" it.

I did use some lube trying to get the table raised again - PB Blaster Dry Lube with Teflon. What's everyone's preferred lubrication for machine parts like these in a hobby wood shop?

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Thanks!
Mike

[Dan Friedrichs]

The rack is fairly easily removable. Either remove the drill press head from the column, or you may be able to remove the base from the column. Either way, the rack and the table mechanism should easily come off the column, then you can just hammer the rack back to flat.

[Lee Schierer]

I would suggest replacing the rack with new instead of pounding it flat. Mcmaster-Carr sells rack material in various lengths. (https://www.mcmaster.com/rack-and-pinion-gears/metal-gears-and-gear-racks-20-pressure-angle/). You may also want to replace the pinion. Buy some Scotchbrite pads and buff your column, then apply a coating of paste wax. Do this about once a year or when you think about it. A third or fourth screw to attache the rack to the column would improve the design significantly.

[Robert Hayward]

A third or fourth screw to attache the rack to the column would improve the design significantly.

If the rack is anchored to the column you will no longer be able to rotate the table around the column.

[Mike Manning]

I would suggest replacing the rack with new instead of pounding it flat. Mcmaster-Carr sells rack material in various lengths. (https://www.mcmaster.com/rack-and-pinion-gears/metal-gears-and-gear-racks-20-pressure-angle/). You may also want to replace the pinion. Buy some Scotchbrite pads and buff your column, then apply a coating of paste wax. Do this about once a year or when you think about it. A third or fourth screw to attache the rack to the column would improve the design significantly.

Lee, your comment regarding "a third or fourth screw" implies there are already two screws attaching the rack to the column but that is not the case. The rack is beveled at both ends and fits into the base and into the collar at the upper end of the column both of which are also beveled to receive and hold the rack. With the current distortion when trying to lower the table the top end of the rack drops down below the collar and is free at that point.

[Mike Manning]

Here's the upper end of the rack and the collar that in intended to hold it in place. The lower end of the rack is set up in exactly the same way.

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[Dan Friedrichs]

Yep, this way the table can swing left/right and the rack slides around the column.

[John Lanciani]

Take it apart, straighten the rack, clean and lube everything and put it back together. No need to replace or re-engineer anything here, it worked just fine for decades just like it was.

[Lee Schierer]

Lee, your comment regarding "a third or fourth screw" implies there are already two screws attaching the rack to the column but that is not the case. The rack is beveled at both ends and fits into the base and into the collar at the upper end of the column both of which are also beveled to receive and hold the rack. With the current distortion when trying to lower the table the top end of the rack drops down below the collar and is free at that point.

You are correct, I wasn't aware that the table rotated. A new rack would end up straighter than one that has bent and straightened.

[Mike Manning]

You are correct, I wasn't aware that the table rotated. A new rack would end up straighter than one that has bent and straightened.

No doubt it would Lee. And my bad on not providing the details that the table rotates. Didn't realize how relevant that little detail is in this case.

Thanks for the thoughts & suggestions guys!

[Mike Kees]

I have bent mine several times. Take it apart and rebend it slightly past straight the opposite way it is now, and then put back together and wax.

[Wes Grass]

1. Always help the table along by lifting it with your other hand while cranking the handle.

2. One way to stiffen the rack against buckling is to shorten it. Probably a pipe dream, but if you could find another collar like the one on top, or find someone to make one for you, you could put it below the table and shorten the rack as much as you think you can live with.

3. Maybe ... stiffen the rack by getting a rib tack welded to the teeth. A piece 1/8 x 1/2 or 3/4 on edge would help. Again, as long as you can live with. I don't know how practical this would be, I'm not a fab guy. I know it's gonna warp and need straightening though.

[Bill Dufour]

Adding a gas strut or counterweight will take most of the load off the rack and reduce the forces trying to bend the rack.
Bill D

[Mike Manning]

Thanks guys.

The concern I have with taking it apart is that I've got a bad right wrist (right handed to boot) so there's no way I'm going to be able to remove the head assembly. I notice in the manual the column is shipped assembled (column support, table support, rack & column collar). I am hoping I can manipulate the table support and both ends of the rack utilizing that upper end of the rack with no teeth to get it off.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Thanks guys.

The concern I have with taking it apart is that I've got a bad right wrist (right handed to boot) so there's no way I'm going to be able to remove the head assembly. I notice in the manual the column is shipped assembled (column support, table support, rack & column collar). I am hoping I can manipulate the table support and both ends of the rack utilizing that upper end of the rack with no teeth to get it off.
Looked at mine (same type) Run table as far up as you can, clamp table in place. Loosen top ring, with table clamped, slide ring up, then crank rack up enough to clear bottom ring. Only takes a quarter inch, and you have about 3" to work with. Bend rack outward so as to create a slight inward bow. Crank rack back down into bottom ring. I would hold bottom of rack in place with a hose clamp, or zip tie. FYI, my bottom ring is the base that column fits into. Because rack teeth don't extend to either end, you can't remove rack without pulling head off. On top side of casting near handle, you have an oil port. Looks like a steel ball sticking up through casting. Press down with oil can spout and give it a shot of oil.

[Mike Wilkins]

Considering the age of the machine, it might be time to consider the Nova Voyager. Very happy with mine.

[Mike Manning]

Looked at mine (same type) Run table as far up as you can, clamp table in place. Loosen top ring, with table clamped, slide ring up, then crank rack up enough to clear bottom ring. Only takes a quarter inch, and you have about 3" to work with. Bend rack outward so as to create a slight inward bow. Crank rack back down into bottom ring. I would hold bottom of rack in place with a hose clamp, or zip tie. FYI, my bottom ring is the base that column fits into. Because rack teeth don't extend to either end, you can't remove rack without pulling head off. On top side of casting near handle, you have an oil port. Looks like a steel ball sticking up through casting. Press down with oil can spout and give it a shot of oil.

Bruce,
Lifting the table support and bending the rack back into position in place on the column is a great idea. However, my column collar is about 1/2" from the head assembly but that's enough room to be able to do what you're describing. I will check for the oil port you're describing. Any chance this is to lubricate the spindle and quill?

All, I came down sick as a dog yesterday. Not a good time to come down with a bug. Good news is that beyond hot flashes I have no Covid-19 symptoms. Hoping I'll be able to get out in the shop in a few days. I will certainly update the thread when I do.

Thanks to all again!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Get well quickly! Don't worry, DP isn't going anywhere soon. It will be there when you feel better. Oil port only lubes the shaft of handle for rack. Bruce

[Mike Manning]

Well, I was definitely feeling better today. Spent about 4 hours piddlin' in the shop. I was able to clean up the column a bit better and put some paste wax on it. More importantly, I bent the rack back a bit, lubricated it and put it back in place without having to remove the head assembly. It's working fine. The lower back side of the rack is proud of the column by about 1/2". In the couple of decades I've had the drill press I've never used the table rotated so I plan to pick up a large hose clamp and put it on down there just to ensure it doesn't bend again. It does raise and lower easily now. Lesson learned. Sorry but I didn't take any pics. Thanks everyone for the thoughts and suggestions!

PS I can clearly understand and appreciate the table tilting but what's the main reason you'd want to rotate the table? Thanks!

[mike stenson]

Well, I was definitely feeling better today. Spent about 4 hours piddlin' in the shop. I was able to clean up the column a bit better and put some paste wax on it. More importantly, I bent the rack back a bit, lubricated it and put it back in place without having to remove the head assembly. It's working fine. The lower back side of the rack is proud of the column by about 1/2". In the couple of decades I've had the drill press I've never used the table rotated so I plan to pick up a large hose clamp and put it on down there just to ensure it doesn't bend again. It does raise and lower easily now. Lesson learned. Sorry but I didn't take any pics. Thanks everyone for the thoughts and suggestions!

PS I can clearly understand and appreciate the table tilting but what's the main reason you'd want to rotate the table? Thanks!

I've rotated tables more for metal working. Sometimes it's simply more convenient when your work is in a vice that's affixed to the table.

[Mike Manning]

I've rotated tables more for metal working. Sometimes it's simply more convenient when your work is in a vice that's affixed to the table.

Mike, of course! I've used it a couple of times for drilling metal and have a couple of drill press vises. Just never had a need to rotate the table. Still not 100%. Thanks for helping me connect the dots. :0)

Mike

[Bruce Wrenn]

Mike, of course! I've used it a couple of times for drilling metal and have a couple of drill press vises. Just never had a need to rotate the table. Still not 100%. Thanks for helping me connect the dots. :0)

Mike


II rotate table and set it vertical when end drilling something long, like a table leg.