Best method/solvent for cleaning rulers

[Ollie McDottie]

Over the years many of the rulers I use often have accumulated a bit gunk on them and some are now impossible to read along the length at points. I know I should have been more diligent and cleaned along the way, but I didn’t. So I’m posting this query now.

These are steel Starrett rulers. I’ve tried pretty much every solvent in my shop. Denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol. Acetone. Thinner. CMT orange tools 2050. Elbow grease and prayer. And largely all to no avail.

Any serious suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I’m missing something obvious.

Thanks in advance.

[Andrew Hughes]

Have you tried goof off. It’s very hot stuff so be careful,unless the rulers are some kinda chemical stain I bet goof off will clean it.

Good Luck

[Mike Henderson]

One sure fire way is to get a deburring wheel and then burnish the rulers with that. It will take all the "patina" off of the rulers but leave the clean rulers open to rust.

Mike

[Mel Fulks]

I would test a little of the ink used to coat metal for scribing. Wipe it off quickly with alcohol ,or whatever it's solvent
base is.
Sounds like you might have to just scratch each line with a needle or scribe...then use ink to "refill" .

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Starrett rules have a satin type coating on them usually. Anything with grit will remove this and cause rust to form (Ask me how I know this...). If they do in deed have rust, either 0000 steel wool with some oil or a red scotchbrite pad will remove the offending junk, you'll just have to wipe the rule with light oil or paste wax to keep them from rusting.

[Mike Henderson]

Starrett rules have a satin type coating on them usually. Anything with grit will remove this and cause rust to form (Ask me how I know this...). If they do in deed have rust, either 0000 steel wool with some oil or a red scotchbrite pad will remove the offending junk, you'll just have to wipe the rule with light oil or paste wax to keep them from rusting.

If the problem is rust, I'd highly recommend soaking in something like Evaporust because it removes the rust and deposits a film that resists rust. It's not a great coating but it's better than bare metal.

Mike

[Dave Zellers]

I would avoid soaking in anything or applying any solvent. I would first do the old elbow grease thing with 0000 steel wool or 400 or 600 grit emory sandpaper.

This will leave the recessed line markings but clean up the surrounding surface creating a greater contrast between the two.

[Richard Coers]

You can't identify the gunk? Different kinds of gunk, different kinds of cleaning methods.

[Ollie McDottie]

You can't identify the gunk? Different kinds of gunk, different kinds of cleaning methods.

the gunk must be glue of some sort. I just can’t see what else it could be. The problem is really just on my 6” square. So I’m figuring likely when gluing up a drawer/box/whatever, in the frantic dash to square up the corners, I got some sort of glues on there. Although I use some CA glue in my work, I doubt it’s glue other than PVA or hide. The gunk is pretty black though — probably from dust on the glue?

[Ollie McDottie]

I would avoid soaking in anything or applying any solvent. I would first do the old elbow grease thing with 0000 steel wool or 400 or 600 grit emory sandpaper.

This will leave the recessed line markings but clean up the surrounding surface creating a greater contrast between the two.

I exhausted all the grease from these here elbows with steel and then 400 grit. Literally nothing came off.

[johnny means]

Pictures might help. Blackness sounds like some sort of chemical reaction. Glue on steel clamps will often blacken before it dries.

[Cam Morin]

Over the years many of the rulers I use often have accumulated a bit gunk on them and some are now impossible to read along the length at points. I know I should have been more diligent and cleaned along the way, but I didn’t. So I’m posting this query now.

These are steel Starrett rulers. I’ve tried pretty much every solvent in my shop. Denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol. Acetone. Thinner. CMT orange tools 2050. Elbow grease and prayer. And largely all to no avail.

Any serious suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I’m missing something obvious.

Thanks in advance.
If Bar Keepers Friend and a scotch pad will not clean it than nothing will. Like others before have stated you may have to apply some T-9 Boeshield or other rust preventative depending on what type of steel your rule is made from. I got stainless from the start and have not needed anything other than an occasional wipe with simple green.

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/5e0aac68-ebc4-4ed6-905d-f9333bd4a196

[David Buchhauser]

Over the years many of the rulers I use often have accumulated a bit gunk on them and some are now impossible to read along the length at points. I know I should have been more diligent and cleaned along the way, but I didn’t. So I’m posting this query now.

These are steel Starrett rulers. I’ve tried pretty much every solvent in my shop. Denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol. Acetone. Thinner. CMT orange tools 2050. Elbow grease and prayer. And largely all to no avail.

Any serious suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I’m missing something obvious.

Thanks in advance.


I've used Mek on some of my Starrett rules with great success.
David

[Charles Lent]

I cleaned up an old framing square and then wiped yellow paint on it, then before it dried I wiped the surface paint off carefully with a cloth pad dampened in paint thinner, leaving only the yellow in all of the grooves and writing. Then let the remaining paint dry. This framing square is now easier to use than my other framing square, so I reach for it more often than the newer one. Most any color of enamel paint will work. You don't need to use yellow, but it was my choice.

Charley

[Brian Behrens]

Vinegar removes dried PVA glue. Let it soak on there a bit. Then hit it with a sander and 220 grit. Will be good as new

[Ollie McDottie]

Thank you all for your suggestions. Great insights and help as well from the excellent folks on this site.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Over the years many of the rulers I use often have accumulated a bit gunk on them and some are now impossible to read along the length at points. I know I should have been more diligent and cleaned along the way, but I didn’t. So I’m posting this query now.

These are steel Starrett rulers. I’ve tried pretty much every solvent in my shop. Denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol. Acetone. Thinner. CMT orange tools 2050. Elbow grease and prayer. And largely all to no avail.

Any serious suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I’m missing something obvious.

Thanks in advance.

The first question to always ask when you want to clean something is.... "what is the bad stuff that I want to clean / remove". In your case, it seems to be glue of some sort. So, what kind of glue do you usually use?

If you used ca glue, then you usually want acetone. I think that Acetone is in goof-off, but check before you just blindly use it. The usual recommendation is that you apply to a cotton swab and apply directly to the glue. See what happens.

Hide glue? you can usually just pour on some hot water. For a ruler, I would just boil some water and maybe dip it to see what happens.

Do you use Titebond glue? http://www.titebond.com/resources/use/glues
A mixture of Acetone/Water/Vinegar will soften the adhesive but will not dissolve it. Scraping the softened adhesive should remove a majority of the adhesive.

I think that you get the idea.

[Dan Gaylin]

I’ve had good luck with this:

CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner, 18 oz bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BJJY5C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_pxWXEbDGK3HDK

You can find it cheaper in a smaller bottle of memory serves

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I used with success WD40 for similar situation with my riles and a carpenter square. After almost 30 years they developed the stuff similar you described... of course I am not absolutely sure they were the same.

Why not to try? I applied a generous portion and let it overnight. Next morning eventually with some additional one I could remove almost all stuff.

Good luck!

[Bohdan Drozdowskyj]

When I had some dried waterproof PVA glue on clothing nothing would shift it until I hit it with the primer that is used on PVC plumbing fittings. It didn't disolve it but it made it crumbly so it just flaked off.

[Lisa Starr]

if you are able to remove the gunk, but remove the black markings also, Starrett makes a product designed for re-blacking the lines/numbers on rules.

[Mike Henderson]

if you are able to remove the gunk, but remove the black markings also, Starrett makes a product designed for re-blacking the lines/numbers on rules.

I didn't know about that, Lisa. Can you post a link or the name of the product, please? So we can find it.

Mike

[Mike Henderson]

When I had some dried waterproof PVA glue on clothing nothing would shift it until I hit it with the primer that is used on PVC plumbing fittings. It didn't dissolve it but it made it crumbly so it just flaked off.

I had the same problem with Titebond III. I used acetone which softened it enough to scrape it off. It still shows a small amount but it's not really noticeable.

Mike

[Edwin Santos]

Could hitting it with a heat gun soften up the "gunk" enough to scrape or wipe it off? Can't see how it would harm a steel rule. Just wear leather gloves.

[Randall J Cox]

Have you thought about contacting Starret? Randy

[glenn bradley]

Looks like this video (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjX0JDJ0cfpAhXOop4KHeX2APsQFjABegQIDBAJ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D6L alh4N5YL8&usg=AOvVaw0PegFUgg1j3Mo9YcJrq-hX) is right up your alley. Hope it is not a duplicate.

[Lisa Starr]

Mike, I'm not working today, so can't look at the one I have. I do know that we call our local tool supplier and ask for a Starrett Re-blacking Crayon. I'll try to get more info together after the holiday.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

PVC primer is my go-to at work. When I have something that won't come off, I give it a shot of primer. It's nasty stuff but beats MEK hands down for stubborn "crap". Be sure to have good ventilation and do it preferably in a garage or outside.