Motor Upgrade for Vintage Rockwell Bandsaw - Used Delta Drill Press Motor

[Joel Turner]

I won at an auction last year a 3/4 hp delta motor -model 1312023 that I thought I might use to upgrade the Rockwell 1/3 hp motor for my older Rockwell bandsaw. A quick google search reveals that this is a drill press replacement motor. I’m a bit shocked at the price when I looked it up as Delta still appears to sell it. Am I correct in assuming that it would work just as well for a bandsaw?

[Jim Becker]

If it's the same frame type, it would likely work. Frame type affects how it mounts...

[Mike Kees]

If it's the same frame type, it would likely work. Frame type affects how it mounts...
After this check shaft diameter,if different then you will have to replace a sheave. RPM needs to be the same as well.

[Bill Dufour]

I prefer any motor in a dusty environment to be TEFC. i would call inside the base of any saw dusty.
Bill D

[John TenEyck]

As long as the motor physically fits and turns in the right direction you can make it work. 3/4 hp is a big upgrade over 1/3 so I'd be motivated to do it. You may need to find a new pulley if the shaft size or rpm are different from the motor on there now, but that's just details. I upgraded my Delta from 3/4 hp to 1.5 when I put a riser on it and had to find a new stepped pulley and make a different motor mounting system. Still wish for more power but it made a big difference.

John

[Joel Turner]

I appreciate all the responses. The saw is on an open stand, not an enclosed base, so physically fitting the motor is not an issue. The mounting plates are similar between the two motors, rpm is equivalent, and shaft sizes are equal. The saw does not currently have a dust port, but I'm planning on cutting a hole in the bottom door to add one.

I don't know if the motor actually works, I need to wire a plug to it, but it was only $20.00 Worst case scenario, I put the original back motor back on.

[Bill Dufour]

I recommend adding a short cord and male plug to the new motor. Cut the old motor cord as close to the motor as possible. Then install a female cord end onto the saw cord. Then you can do most of the wiring on the bench instead of standing on your head.
Bill D

[Bruce Wrenn]

I'm planning on cutting a hole in the bottom doorBefore cutting a hole in door, dig up a copy of my "Top Tip" in Wood magazine from several years earlier. Go over to NC Woodworker, and do a title search "Bruce's bandsaw dust collection tip in Wood mag" That should bring up the thread with Wood's "Tip of the day."

[Doug Garson]

Before cutting a hole in door, dig up a copy of my "Top Tip" in Wood magazine from several years earlier. Go over to NC Woodworker, and do a title search "Bruce's bandsaw dust collection tip in Wood mag" That should bring up the thread with Wood's "Tip of the day."
I agree before you cut a hole in the door, research 14" Delta bandsaw dust collection, not sure that a hole in the door is very effective give all the gaps around the door.

[Joel Turner]

Before cutting a hole in door, dig up a copy of my "Top Tip" in Wood magazine from several years earlier. "

Will do. I appreciate the tip.

[Randall J Cox]

I have an open old motor (original I'm sure) on an old Delta 10" bandsaw that I fully rebuilt. It had lots of sawdust caked in it of course. To fix this (sawdust in motor) I added a 5" dust collection to the BS and also made a sheet metal cover for the motor so any sawdust that falls down will not make it onto the motor itself. The cover keeps the sawdust away from the intake ports. Actually the connection to my dust collection system works great, hardly any sawdust lands on the motor covering. As the motor was still running after prob 50 years, with new bearings and cleaned out, this should run another 50! And I'm 73, so think I have it covered for a while. ha ha

[Chris Fournier]

My first bandsaw was similar to yours, a Delta though. I put a 1 hp motor on it right away and it was great. I was re-sawing guitar woods and had a riser kit on the BS. I found that the 1 hp TEFC motor was a match for the spindly saw frame when I was tensioning 3/4" blades. Your plan is a good one and inexpensive at that! Good luck.