Extend power cord on PM 60HH jointer

[Dave Mills]

I have a PM 60HH jointer coming my way, and will need to plug it in further away than its cord length. The manual talked about extension cords and recommends gauges, but frankly I'd rather replace the whole cord with a longer one. The manual doesn't talk about that possibility. Has anyone done a cord swap on this jointer, that can tell me if it's an easy enough swap (like, removing a cover, unscrewing three wires, and replacing them with three other wires), or whether this would be a more involved project?

Thanks

[Richard Coers]

Could require crimping on a couple lugs, but can't imagine anything more complicated. If you want to go to code, you should have a mechanical disconnect where the flex cable terminates on the wall.

[Dave Mills]

Thanks Richard. I do have an outlet at the wall, just wanting to avoid an extension cord.

[Darcy Warner]

Same difference, really.

[glenn bradley]

Same difference but, no double-plug to trip over. I have done both. If you keep your eyes open Costco, Pep Boys and others will have 12 gauge extension cords on sale for less than you can but the cord for. I pick them up whenever I see them for a stupid low price and I don't have a couple in the wings. Never been sorry that I had a spare cord around. Making your own extension or changing out the cord is very economical this way.

[Rod Sheridan]

I've replaced cords on almost all my machines as they're too short or some didn't come with cords..........Rod.

[Dave Mills]

Thanks folks! Looks like I can use an extension cord with one end cut off - good idea.

[Andy D Jones]

Another idea championed here (I don't recall by whom), is to make an extension cord with a twist-lock receptacle. You can start with a commercial extension cord, or make your own, but as mentioned above, you can often purchase the extension cord for less than the materials in it, even if you don't use the stock receptacle end. It is often the case that, by the time you get an extension cord with sufficiently gauged wire, the length is considerably longer than you need, so you should trim it to the length you do need, and while you're at it, change the receptacle.

Then cut off your machine's power cord short enough that it does not reach the floor, and put a mating twist lock plug on it.

This way, the tool's plug never gets damaged by stepping on it, or rolling a machine over it. And the twist-lock pair, once fully mated, is not going to come loose on its own.

-- Andy Jones - Arlington TX

[Bill Dufour]

Carefully price the new cord end and receptacle to match. Try to choose a common 240 outlet for the shop that is not too expensive and is carried by the box stores.
On big machines like this I like to cut the cord to the motor and install a twist lock so i can pull the motor in the future without dealing with wiring under there. For this I buy any matching twist lock I can find at Habitat or yard sales(remember when those were legal?). Often easy to do with the machine half apart anyway. I definitely do it if I have to pull the motor for bearings or pulley changes. I cut the cord close to the motor and leave it long from the switch gear. Add a new short cord from the motor on the bench. Makes bench testing easy if needed.
Bill D.

[Jim Becker]

What Andy describes is how I prefer to handle my machines...a short pigtail with a twist lock and then a cord that's the appropriate length to get from that pigtail to the outlet. Yes, it costs me a little more that way, but it's what I prefer.

[Tom M King]

My preference, as well, and my big tools have been set up like that for decades. It makes it much easier to move them.

If you live in a state that allows people off the street to buy from dedicated electrical suppliers, their prices will be much less than the box stores.

Buy some variety of type SO cord. It will most likely have other letters behind the S, and O, such as SOOW, but those don't matter much for a woodworking shop. Some of my SO extension cords are 35 years old, and still perfectly fine.

[Mike Tekin]

Why not just open the switch box, crimp on connectors to new power cord and replace new with the old? No need for pigtails, extension cords, etc. I always feel the less connections, the better.

I have done this on Grizzly, Jet, Powermatic, Sawstop, big machines, small hand held power tools and never found it difficult. Cords on quality tools and machines is a maintenance item and they are designed to be replaced.

As someone mentioned, supply houses and using 12 gauge extension cord from Costco nets a much cheaper cost than Home Depot/Lowe’s which make a hefty profit on what they sell their plugs for, however, the spade or

Just something I learned from the tradesman in the family going back generations.

[David L Morse]

I also use pigtailed machines and extension cords. The convenience when moving is nice but for me safety is the biggest advantage. The ability to easily disconnect power right at the machine makes it a lot more likely that I do that when I should.

[Jason Evans]

I’d like to resurrect this thread. I’m aiming to get a new jointer and I need to put a longer cord on it. It’s the g0858 and the motor is 3hp 12 amp 230v. It seems this is a fairly common practice, but I called grizzly and they didn’t like the idea. I mentioned I’d like to put a 15 to 20 foot cord on and the tech winced a bit and said it could damage the motor due to amperage drop. I would use a 12 gauge extension cord with the right 220 plug with one end cut, this seems ok to me and other people I’ve asked, but I thought I’d ask the crowd here.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Jason, there are plenty of folks who have done what you propose, either with a cord replacement or with an extension. If it's constructed and sized properly, you should have no issues, especially if you are not an industrial user that will be working the machine hard and constantly. If you want to hedge, use 10 gauge cord material. Voltage drops are really not going to be a factor for what is a relatively short pathway. Remember, the circuit, itself, has some amount of length to it, too. If it were a hundred feet? Yea...not kewel. But 15-20 feet?

[Rob Sack]

My jointer has a 3 hp 230 volt single phase Baldor motor. I also needed about a 20 foot cord. I used 10 gauge SJ or SO coming off the starter with a 30 amp twist lock going into a 30 amp twist lock receptacle. No way will this damage the motor due to any amperage drop. I probably could have gotten by with 12 gauge, but for the minor increase in cost, I know the motor has all the amps it will ever need, especially on start up.

[Jason Evans]

Thanks, Jim and Rob. I've thought about and read about this kind of thing a lot over the years and this is what I was thinking, I appreciate the verification. I started to doubt my thinking though when I called grizzly to see if adding a longer cord would void the warranty, they said it wouldn't, but the tech I talked to really thought this was a bad idea. He seemed to think even 15 feet instead of the 6 that comes with it was not good. I just couldn't understand why he thought a few feet made such a difference.

I was thinking about 10 gauge to be safe, but I want to be able to fit it into the switch box and whatever kind of connections it has easily, trying not to modify this machine too much while under warranty.

Thanks again

[Alex Zeller]

One thing to remember is the engineers who designed the tool picked the size of the cord based on the current draw of the motor, the amount of time they expect it to run, and the length of the cord. My point is they may have picked a smaller gauge than what would be needed if you want to replace a 6' cord with a 20' one. That could mean fitting a larger gauge wire into the electrical box inside the tool could be difficult.

[Jason Evans]

Thanks Alex. I’ll keep this in mind. I guess if I open the switch and it looks like I can’t get a larger gauge cord in there I’ll do the pigtail thing or just add the extension cord.

[Ronald Blue]

It comes with a 14 gauge so upsizing to 12 should allow you to extend it to the length you need. The strain relief might be the limiting factor though. If it is then I would shorten the OEM cord to about 12", add a twist lock ends and make your own dedicated extension cord from 12 gauge cord.

[Charles Coolidge]

I recommend 10/3 300 volt SJOOW flex cord, it's rated for 30 amps at a cord length of 1-50 feet. 25 amps from 51-100 feet. I have standardized on this cord and twist locks in my shop. The 12 gauge flex cord (been there, done that) would be fine but the cord is rather thin and less durable. The 10/3 SOOW 600 volt (been there done that) has much thicker insulation, ridiculously thick, heavy and difficult to coil. Think welder cord out on the docks in an industrial environment getting run over by fork lifts. The 10/3 300 volt SJOOW is the sweet spot.

Welcome to the G0858 club I started uncrating my new G0858 jointer last night!

471967

[Mark Brewer]

I have pigtailed all my mobile power tools and some of the portable ones too.
The best way to go.
I agree, original cords to long and get in the way around the shop.

[Jason Evans]

I recommend 10/3 300 volt SJOOW flex cord, it's rated for 30 amps at a cord length of 1-50 feet. 25 amps from 51-100 feet. I have standardized on this cord and twist locks in my shop. The 12 gauge flex cord (been there, done that) would be fine but the cord is rather thin and less durable. The 10/3 SOOW 600 volt (been there done that) has much thicker insulation, ridiculously thick, heavy and difficult to coil. Think welder cord out on the docks in an industrial environment getting run over by fork lifts. The 10/3 300 volt SJOOW is the sweet spot.

Welcome to the G0858 club I started uncrating my new G0858 jointer last night!

471967

Thanks for the recommendation Charles. I'll wait and see what size wire the switch box can accommodate. I'm not sure I can make a cord any better or cheaper than I can buy though. AC works on amazon has some nice cords for good prices. I have one for the vacuum hold down on my cnc router and its nice and flexible and well made.

I'm happy to be in the g0858 club, well so far anyway. I just bought it yesterday, I hope it is pretty close to tuned when I get it, well at least pretty flat tables that are parallel. I'm tired of messing around with my g0654 6" jointer trying to get it tuned. It was cutting nicely for a long time, then I moved and ever since I just can't get it set up right. I've been meaning to upgrade sometime anyway.

I've got to get the g0858 shipped to a local sign supply shop that has a loading dock, he said I could use since grizzly says lift gate service is not available. Then I'll either rent a lift gate truck from Penske or hire a flat bed tow truck to move it. The shop owner is nice enough to let me borrow his pallet jack too. Keeping my fingers crossed for a good one.

[Charles Coolidge]

I've got to get the g0858 shipped to a local sign supply shop that has a loading dock, he said I could use since grizzly says lift gate service is not available. Then I'll either rent a lift gate truck from Penske or hire a flat bed tow truck to move it. The shop owner is nice enough to let me borrow his pallet jack too. Keeping my fingers crossed for a good one.

Wow, or call Grizzly and tell those knuckleheads you want the liftgate service for $34. It says no liftgate service on the product page, but then liftgate service is offered out checkout. Note I opted for liftgate service, they trucked it right to my house and unloaded via liftgate and pallet jacked into my garage.

472037

In related news beware of those lift hooks, a retarded design imo. With only 2 lift hooks, 1 on each side diagonally the top heavy jointer at those lifting points can tip diagonally and flip over. I had to use a 3rd strap to keep it upright. It should have 4 lifting hooks imo. She is safely sitting on the floor now but phew it got dicey there for a minute.

[Jason Evans]

Wow, or call Grizzly and tell those knuckleheads you want the liftgate service for $34. It says no liftgate service on the product page, but then liftgate service is offered out checkout. Note I opted for liftgate service, they trucked it right to my house and unloaded via liftgate and pallet jacked into my garage.

472037

In related news beware of those lift hooks, a retarded design imo. With only 2 lift hooks, 1 on each side diagonally the top heavy jointer at those lifting points can tip diagonally and flip over. I had to use a 3rd strap to keep it upright. It should have 4 lifting hooks imo. She is safely sitting on the floor now but phew it got dicey there for a minute.

dang! I called grizzly and they said nope not happening. Maybe I’ll call back today and try again. Are you in a neighborhood? Country road?

Thanks for the warning in the hooks. Not sure how I’m going to get into it if the crate yet.

[Charles Coolidge]

I'm in a residential area on 1 acre. My driveway is paved. Just the typical liftgate truck requirements, they need room to park the truck in the road. They backed the truck into my driveway no problem. I lifted it off the crate bottom with my Kubota tractor font end loader. I think an engine hoist won't work given the length of the base and tables.

[derek labian]

Thanks, Jim and Rob. I've thought about and read about this kind of thing a lot over the years and this is what I was thinking, I appreciate the verification. I started to doubt my thinking though when I called grizzly to see if adding a longer cord would void the warranty, they said it wouldn't, but the tech I talked to really thought this was a bad idea. He seemed to think even 15 feet instead of the 6 that comes with it was not good. I just couldn't understand why he thought a few feet made such a difference.

I was thinking about 10 gauge to be safe, but I want to be able to fit it into the switch box and whatever kind of connections it has easily, trying not to modify this machine too much while under warranty.

Thanks again

Hi Jason,

You can use a wire size calculator to estimate what you'll need. As Jim said, I think the voltage drop won't have any impact at that distance, but you can use the calculator to tinker around and find a configuration you like. I am not an electrician.

Calculator I use:

http://wiresizecalculator.net/

[Michael Schuch]

Thanks, Jim and Rob. I've thought about and read about this kind of thing a lot over the years and this is what I was thinking, I appreciate the verification. I started to doubt my thinking though when I called grizzly to see if adding a longer cord would void the warranty, they said it wouldn't, but the tech I talked to really thought this was a bad idea. He seemed to think even 15 feet instead of the 6 that comes with it was not good. I just couldn't understand why he thought a few feet made such a difference.

I was thinking about 10 gauge to be safe, but I want to be able to fit it into the switch box and whatever kind of connections it has easily, trying not to modify this machine too much while under warranty.

Thanks again

2hp @ 220v will pull a max of about 6amps - a 12 gauge extension cord will handle 14 amps which will be more than plenty! No need to go with 10 gauge , that will just be more expensive and fatter and more cord to move around.

The tech doesn't know what he is talking about. Get a 20' 12 gauge extension cord, cut off the receptacle end and make it as long as you need.

I purchase pretty much used equipment, the older the better. That means putting new cords on pretty much everything. I like molded plugs so I use a lot of extensions cords with one end cut off as new power cables. I almost get excited when I buy a hand power tool with a bad cord knowing that I get to replace it with a long cord!

[Jon Endres]

Just found this thread, I have been using twist-lock extension cords on all my machines for years, because they are all in the middle of the shop and my receptacles are on the walls. I don't have pigtails at the machine but that is a great idea. I used to work with a guy who cut all but six inches off all his hand-held power tools (this was 30+ years ago when cordless tools were in infancy) and he equipped all of the cutoff ends with a new male end, and then used one extension cord for everything. Made the tools much easier to store, I guess. I do like Hubbell or Pass&Seymour/LeGrand connectors, buy the commercial or industrial rated cord ends. I use SJOOW 12-gauge cord for everything. Prefer orange, yellow or bright blue if I can get it, it's easy to see on the shop floor.

[Jason Evans]

I'm in a residential area on 1 acre. My driveway is paved. Just the typical liftgate truck requirements, they need room to park the truck in the road. They backed the truck into my driveway no problem. I lifted it off the crate bottom with my Kubota tractor font end loader. I think an engine hoist won't work given the length of the base and tables.

I asked grizzly again, and nope. Still don't know how I'm getting it out of the crate when it comes.

[Jason Evans]

Hi Jason,

You can use a wire size calculator to estimate what you'll need. As Jim said, I think the voltage drop won't have any impact at that distance, but you can use the calculator to tinker around and find a configuration you like. I am not an electrician.

Calculator I use:

http://wiresizecalculator.net/

Thanks Derek.

[Jason Evans]

2hp @ 220v will pull a max of about 6amps - a 12 gauge extension cord will handle 14 amps which will be more than plenty! No need to go with 10 gauge , that will just be more expensive and fatter and more cord to move around.

The tech doesn't know what he is talking about. Get a 20' 12 gauge extension cord, cut off the receptacle end and make it as long as you need.

Thanks Michael.

[Jason Evans]

Just found this thread, I have been using twist-lock extension cords on all my machines for years, because they are all in the middle of the shop and my receptacles are on the walls. I don't have pigtails at the machine but that is a great idea. I used to work with a guy who cut all but six inches off all his hand-held power tools (this was 30+ years ago when cordless tools were in infancy) and he equipped all of the cutoff ends with a new male end, and then used one extension cord for everything. Made the tools much easier to store, I guess. I do like Hubbell or Pass&Seymour/LeGrand connectors, buy the commercial or industrial rated cord ends. I use SJOOW 12-gauge cord for everything. Prefer orange, yellow or bright blue if I can get it, it's easy to see on the shop floor.

Thanks for the brand recommendation, Jon. I like bright colors too.

[Jim Becker]

In addition to my previous comments, this is a good example of where I personally like to use the pigtail method. With the machine "that far" from the actual receptacle, using a pigtail gives you a 100% positive disconnect right at the machine and also allows you to get a long cord out of the way easily should there be a need to do so. You can "right-size" the cord, too...not too long and not too short. I use the pigtail method for most of my machines.

[Jason Evans]

In addition to my previous comments, this is a good example of where I personally like to use the pigtail method. With the machine "that far" from the actual receptacle, using a pigtail gives you a 100% positive disconnect right at the machine and also allows you to get a long cord out of the way easily should there be a need to do so. You can "right-size" the cord, too...not too long and not too short. I use the pigtail method for most of my machines.

I can't decide if I like the pigtail idea or not. I can see it being advantageous to having the tool be cord free if need be, but the idea of a second connection in the line vs just one long cord adds a little bit of worry of voltage drop or something damaging the motor. If I had several machines with the pigtails I could see the advantage outweighing the worry.

[Charles Coolidge]

I asked grizzly again, and nope. Still don't know how I'm getting it out of the crate when it comes.

Try this, go put another jointer in your shopping cart, choose check out and see if the $34 option for liftgate service is on the screen. If so send the Grizzly boneheads a screen shot.

[Greg Funk]

2hp @ 220v will pull a max of about 6amps - a 12 gauge extension cord will handle 14 amps which will be more than plenty! No need to go with 10 gauge , that will just be more expensive and fatter and more cord to move around.Minor nit but full load current on a 2HP single phase motor is much higher than 6A. Typical motors can be up to 12A. 12 or 14 gauge cords will handle the full load current but during startup the current will be much higher, typically a 6x multiple, but could by higher. Each plug/receptacle adds some contact resistance; the amount will depend on the age and wear on the receptacle. 20 ft of 12 AWG is probably fine but 10 AWG gives a little extra margin if the machine is a long way from the breaker.

[Jim Becker]

I can't decide if I like the pigtail idea or not. I can see it being advantageous to having the tool be cord free if need be, but the idea of a second connection in the line vs just one long cord adds a little bit of worry of voltage drop or something damaging the motor. If I had several machines with the pigtails I could see the advantage outweighing the worry.
I use twist locks which are very secure when locked together, I doubt there's any issue with loss. Of course, there's a price to pay for these connections over the simpler version.

[Charles Coolidge]

I use twist locks which are very secure when locked together, I doubt there's any issue with loss. Of course, there's a price to pay for these connections over the simpler version.

Lowes/Home Depot charge an arm and a leg for twist lock cord ends.

[Jim Becker]

Lowes/Home Depot charge an arm and a leg for twist lock cord ends.
I generally order them online from Amazon. And some of mine are nearly two decades old, so the real cost over time isn't too steep, honestly.

[Rod Sheridan]

2hp @ 220v will pull a max of about 6amps - a 12 gauge extension cord will handle 14 amps which will be more than plenty! No need to go with 10 gauge , that will just be more expensive and fatter and more cord to move around.

The tech doesn't know what he is talking about. Get a 20' 12 gauge extension cord, cut off the receptacle end and make it as long as you need.

I purchase pretty much used equipment, the older the better. That means putting new cords on pretty much everything. I like molded plugs so I use a lot of extensions cords with one end cut off as new power cables. I almost get excited when I buy a hand power tool with a bad cord knowing that I get to replace it with a long cord!


14AWG flexible cord with 2 current carrying conductors is rated for 18 amperes, you don’t need anything larger….Regards, Rod.

[Bill Dufour]

I generally order them online from Amazon. And some of mine are nearly two decades old, so the real cost over time isn't too steep, honestly.
I buy them used on the bay. Around $10 each delivered. Sometimes you can get a deal on several in a set sold together. I would rather have a used USA made one then a new China made version.
Bill D

[Charles Coolidge]

I'll wait and see what size wire the switch box can accommodate.

I looked at the box and cord yesterday, 14AWG and stiff as a board PVC cord bent into a Z accordion. The plastic box has a press fit cheap strain relief there's no nut and the hole looks pretty small. Fortunately there's the long steel pole the on/off switch/box is screwed to. I'm going to mount a steel electrical box on the back side lower down. Cut the existing cord short and plumb it into the steel box. I'll either install a 10/3 220 twist lock outlet in the box and make up an extension cord or wire a long cord to the box directly. Kind of like the idea of being able to remove the cord and hang on a wall. The rear mount for the lifting hook would also be a good spot to bolt on a U to hang the cord on.

[Jim Becker]

I looked at the box and cord yesterday, 14AWG and stiff as a board PVC cord bent into a Z accordion. The plastic box has a press fit cheap strain relief there's no nut and the hole looks pretty small. Fortunately there's the long steel pole the on/off switch/box is screwed to. I'm going to mount a steel electrical box on the back side lower down. Cut the existing cord short and plumb it into the steel box. I'll either install a 10/3 220 twist lock outlet in the box and make up an extension cord or wire a long cord to the box directly. Kind of like the idea of being able to remove the cord and hang on a wall. The rear mount for the lifting hook would also be a good spot to bolt on a U to hang the cord on.

Don't forget you need a male twist lock at the machine end unless you really want to do a non-standard implementation that could be dangerous if the cord is plugged into the wall and disconnected from the saw. Those prongs would be, um...uncomfortable...to touch. ;)

[Michael Schuch]

I have a 10/3 cord on my 250amp Lincoln MIG welder... it is a lot of bulk and weight to move around, not flexible and kind of a pain in the rear. I would highly recommend going with a 12/3 cord which will be way overkill in itself. No need at all to go with a 10/3 for a 2hp motor! Grizzly would not have put a 14g cord on the jointer if it wasn't big enough to handle the current of the 2hp motor.

[Charles Coolidge]

Don't forget you need a male twist lock at the machine end unless you really want to do a non-standard implementation that could be dangerous if the cord is plugged into the wall and disconnected from the saw. Those prongs would be, um...uncomfortable...to touch. ;)

Ha yeah that would be a bad idea good catch. I'll just add a 12 foot SJOOW twist lock cord to the machine. Also this morning I scoped out running conduit so I have more places to plug in the 220v machines. Right now all my 220v outlets are at the far back corner next to the main panel. Getting tired of stringing 25 foot cords across the floor.

[David L Morse]

Ha yeah that would be a bad idea good catch. I'll just add a 12 foot SJOOW twist lock cord to the machine. Also this morning I scoped out running conduit so I have more places to plug in the 220v machines. Right now all my 220v outlets are at the far back corner next to the main panel. Getting tired of stringing 25 foot cords across the floor.

There's this (https://www.amazon.com/L6-20-Locking-Flanged-Inlet-Listed/dp/B019G38OT0?th=1) or this (https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-30-Amp-Locking-3-Prong-250-Volt-NEMA-L6-30P-Flanged-Power-Input-Inlet-ASINL630P/308319948).

[Malcolm McLeod]

... Those prongs would be, um...uncomfortable...to touch. ;)

Occasionally, I'll make something odd like this for 1-off testing of equipment. Carefully.
Any male-to-male cord set, or even male-to-stripped/loose ends is called a "suicide cord."
Not recommended for civilians. Or anything else with a heartbeat.

[Jim Becker]

Ha yeah that would be a bad idea good catch. I'll just add a 12 foot SJOOW twist lock cord to the machine. Also this morning I scoped out running conduit so I have more places to plug in the 220v machines. Right now all my 220v outlets are at the far back corner next to the main panel. Getting tired of stringing 25 foot cords across the floor.
You could do that but if you want the potential occasional convenience, just put a short pigtail with a male twist lock on it. You cord can be "right sized" and just have a male for the wall and a female for the machine end to connect to the pigtail. Yes, the up-front cost is an extra pair of twist locks...I just bite the bullet and do it anyway because it's worked very well for me. It's actually been a boon in my current temporary shop as it makes for easy sharing of an outlet as I'm constrained on that for the time being.

[Charles Coolidge]

You could do that but if you want the potential occasional convenience, just put a short pigtail with a male twist lock on it. You cord can be "right sized" and just have a male for the wall and a female for the machine end to connect to the pigtail. Yes, the up-front cost is an extra pair of twist locks...I just bite the bullet and do it anyway because it's worked very well for me. It's actually been a boon in my current temporary shop as it makes for easy sharing of an outlet as I'm constrained on that for the time being.

I have to step over the cords to get to the shop lights, it's a miracle I haven't tripped and taken a dive into the tractor front end loader bucket yet. Probably going to run the conduit. I have an acre of land, one day I should just build a proper work shop.

[Alex Zeller]

Just and FYI. SJOOW has a thinner outer jacket. For a home shop it's ok to use it as an extension cord or cable for a tool. But it's not as protected from shorting if the edge of a sheet of plywood or something else accidentally got dropped on the cord. SOOW will be not as flexible and slightly larger diameter but it'll stand up to abuse better than the SJOOW. I usually go with SOOW if it's going to lay on the floor.

[Charles Coolidge]

Just and FYI. SJOOW has a thinner outer jacket. For a home shop it's ok to use it as an extension cord or cable for a tool. But it's not as protected from shorting if the edge of a sheet of plywood or something else accidentally got dropped on the cord. SOOW will be not as flexible and slightly larger diameter but it'll stand up to abuse better than the SJOOW. I usually go with SOOW if it's going to lay on the floor.

SJOOW is tough it's not going to short as you describe, have you tried to strip that stuff?

[Charles Coolidge]

I hope it is pretty close to tuned when I get it, well at least pretty flat tables that are parallel.

Well Jason sadly mine arrived NOT tuned. Nothing on this jointer was adjusted correctly so far. Electrical box crooked. Rabbit/blade guard table uphill out of plane with the table about .125 inch. I had to remove sheet metal to adjust it. Finished wiring the cord just now and started checking the tables with the 48 inch Starrett precision straight edge...the outfeed table still contacts the cutter even at the highest table setting. Infeed table is sloped downward toward the cutterhead like a ski jump, by eye I'd say minimum .015 to .020 inch. So the sheet metal has to come off and I'll be spending my time doing the setup the factory should have done.

Hey factory, you are lazy and sloppy. Go take another coffee break you are about useless anyway. With that rant out of the way lol here's some wiring pics.

The factory cord, stiff, bent, I don't know mount in on a wall as modern art?

472636

The plastic factory electrical box is designed for some kind of rectangular press/snap/hammer in cord grips. Rather than mess with it I installed a steel box below. Cut the factory cord off leaving a foot or so which I ran into the steel box. That cord grip is 1/2 inch for .300 to .375 inch cord. The factory cord is 14awg about .365 inch in diameter. For the new cord I used 12/3 SJOOW sourced at Lowes. It's about .450 inch in diameter. For it's cord grip I used also a 1/2 inch but for .375 to .500 inch cords. I threw just 8 feet of cord on the machine and a 20amp 250v twist lock plug. I'll be using a longer extension cord between it and the wall panel. My bandsaw will be using the same outlet and extension cord. It came with a 15amp 220v plug, naturally different than the jointer, yet both recommend a 20 amp breaker.

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It looks pretty, that's about all I can say so far. I was about to haul the crate to the dump, now I may hold off until I try to get this crooked thing adjusted. Already wishing I had spent another $2,500.

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[Jason Evans]

Well Jason sadly mine arrived NOT tuned. Nothing on this jointer was adjusted correctly so far. Electrical box crooked. Rabbit/blade guard table uphill out of plane with the table about .125 inch. I had to remove sheet metal to adjust it. Finished wiring the cord just now and started checking the tables with the 48 inch Starrett precision straight edge...the outfeed table still contacts the cutter even at the highest table setting. Infeed table is sloped downward toward the cutterhead like a ski jump, by eye I'd say minimum .015 to .020 inch. So the sheet metal has to come off and I'll be spending my time doing the setup the factory should have done.

Hey factory, you are lazy and sloppy. Go take another coffee break you are about useless anyway. With that rant out of the way lol here's some wiring pics.

The factory cord, stiff, bent, I don't know mount in on a wall as modern art?

472636

The plastic factory electrical box is designed for some kind of rectangular press/snap/hammer in cord grips. Rather than mess with it I installed a steel box below. Cut the factory cord off leaving a foot or so which I ran into the steel box. That cord grip is 1/2 inch for .300 to .375 inch cord. The factory cord is 14awg about .365 inch in diameter. For the new cord I used 12/3 SJOOW sourced at Lowes. It's about .450 inch in diameter. For it's cord grip I used also a 1/2 inch but for .375 to .500 inch cords. I threw just 8 feet of cord on the machine and a 20amp 250v twist lock plug. I'll be using a longer extension cord between it and the wall panel. My bandsaw will be using the same outlet and extension cord. It came with a 15amp 220v plug, naturally different than the jointer, yet both recommend a 20 amp breaker.

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It looks pretty, that's about all I can say so far. I was about to haul the crate to the dump, now I may hold off until I try to get this crooked thing adjusted. Already wishing I had spent another $2,500.

472638

Well that's pretty annoying. Thanks for the info and the warning Charles. I didn't really have my hopes set too high really though. I thought buying a jointer made in Taiwan would make a difference, but I guess not these days. I'm interested to see how you adjust the outfield table to go higher. Mine will probably be the same since we bought them at similar times. The same people probably made them.

I bought a 10/3 extension cord because the outlet I'll be using it on is an L6-30 and the 10/3 cord has that plug size on it already. I'm going to cut do the pigtail style that a few people recommend and cut the cord short so the connection isn't on the floor.

[Charles Coolidge]

Well that's pretty annoying. Thanks for the info and the warning Charles. I didn't really have my hopes set too high really though. I thought buying a jointer made in Taiwan would make a difference, but I guess not these days. I'm interested to see how you adjust the outfield table to go higher. Mine will probably be the same since we bought them at similar times. The same people probably made them.

I bought a 10/3 extension cord because the outlet I'll be using it on is an L6-30 and the 10/3 cord has that plug size on it already. I'm going to cut do the pigtail style that a few people recommend and cut the cord short so the connection isn't on the floor.

Yeah they just slapped the hot mess together and shipped it to the customer to deal with, shocker. Mine is dated manufactured 08/2021. That the tables are not in plane with one another on a parallelogram jointer is concerning. So is the outfeed out of whack, the infeed or both. This will require ripping the sheet metal covers off the front and back. Ha trying to pry out the plastic push in buttons covering the screws again will get me cussing. lol I have the measuring tools to dial this thing in but I shouldn't have to fix Grizzly's lame ass job of assembly. Wait, how did this thing pass "Taiwan" level QC? :rolleyes: I was thinking the same thing you did, been there done that on a CHINA Grizzly jointer GO490. I had higher hopes for this Taiwan unit.

Hear you on the 10/3 cord and twist lock, but what's the breaker rated for 20amp or 30amp? I almost installed an L6-30 outlet and a 3rd 30 amp breaker but thought better of it. I want it to trip at 20 amps not 30 amps. So I left the 20 amp breaker in my panel an installed a L6-20R 250v outlet.

[Jason Evans]

Yeah they just slapped the hot mess together and shipped it to the customer to deal with, shocker. Mine is dated manufactured 08/2021. That the tables are not in plane with one another on a parallelogram jointer is concerning. So is the outfeed out of whack, the infeed or both. This will require ripping the sheet metal covers off the front and back. Ha trying to pry out the plastic push in buttons covering the screws again will get me cussing. lol I have the measuring tools to dial this thing in but I shouldn't have to fix Grizzly's lame ass job of assembly. Wait, how did this thing pass "Taiwan" level QC? :rolleyes: I was thinking the same thing you did, been there done that on a CHINA Grizzly jointer GO490. I had higher hopes for this Taiwan unit.

Hear you on the 10/3 cord and twist lock, but what's the breaker rated for 20amp or 30amp? I almost installed an L6-30 outlet and a 3rd 30 amp breaker but thought better of it. I want it to trip at 20 amps not 30 amps. So I left the 20 amp breaker in my panel an installed a L6-20R 250v outlet.

Jeez, what a mess. Maybe I'll start at thread on my new one to compare experiences. Now I'm wishing I had bought a better jointer, but which one, I don't know. I researched until my eyes bled and my brain gave out and this seemed like one of the best options. People say powermatic has gone down hill, and baileigh, and laguna are just the same Chinese machines as grizzly sells. Who knows, maybe there isn't a good choice.

One reason I bought a new jointer is that my 6" dovetail jointer tables keep going out of plane, and I have to spend forever getting them straight again. Such a tedious process. I'm hoping that at least once it's tuned it'll stay that way for a long time. I didn't ever like changing the depth of cut on my current jointer for fears of knocking things out of whack.

The ironic thing is right after I ordered the new one, I finally got the old one shimmed pretty good again and it's cutting like it's supposed to, mostly anyway. I was trying to get it tuned to sell.

I'm kind of worried about using a 12 amp 3hp machine on a 30 amp breaker, but I have 3 220 outlets already and didn't feel like having another installed. I feel like it's pretty unusual for these motors to have overload problems, knock on wood, so I guess it'll be ok. Anybody have an opinion on oversized breakers being used on 12 amp tools?

[Greg Funk]

I'm kind of worried about using a 12 amp 3hp machine on a 30 amp breaker, but I have 3 220 outlets already and didn't feel like having another installed. I feel like it's pretty unusual for these motors to have overload problems, knock on wood, so I guess it'll be ok. Anybody have an opinion on oversized breakers being used on 12 amp tools?Most larger machinery includes overload protection on the starter so you shouldn't need to rely on the breaker. The breaker protects the wire and the Overload relay on the machine protects the motor.

[Jason Evans]

Most larger machinery includes overload protection on the starter so you shouldn't need to rely on the breaker. The breaker protects the wire and the Overload relay on the machine protects the motor.

Thanks Greg.

[Greg Funk]

I'm not an expert on the NEC but if I read it correctly the maximum size for a breaker protecting the circuit is 250% of the FLA. In your case that works out to 30A. The overload relay on the jointer would have a lower setting sized to the motor.

[Jason Evans]

Great. Sounds like I’m good either way. Thanks again Greg.

[Charles Coolidge]

Now I'm wishing I had bought a better jointer, but which one, I don't know. I researched until my eyes bled and my brain gave out and this seemed like one of the best options. People say powermatic has gone down hill, and baileigh, and laguna are just the same Chinese machines as grizzly sells. Who knows, maybe there isn't a good choice.

Right there with you, didn't see a lot of differences unless I stepped up to a 12". I looked at the Powermatic PJ882HH but it's overpriced, a dated design and the internet is lit up with quality complaints. Seems like CHINA/Taiwan Powermatic machines are either really good or total garbage. You couldn't give me one of their lame table saws. Yet I purchased a PM2028EVS 20" drill press and that thing is a work of art in design, features and build quality. Shockingly, the table (massively overbuilt and rigid) and the cast iron insert is absolutely dead flat. The table plastic insert is laughable, as is the table 90 degree locating pin but I dial mine in with a Starrett spindle square so I don't really care. The rest is pure genius. Loving the innovative depth stop.

Just ran through the 8" jointers again, all are just rebranded variants of the same CHINA/Tawain jointer. The Laguna is the same as this Grizzly. I'm off to look at the 12".




I'm kind of worried about using a 12 amp 3hp machine on a 30 amp breaker

After giving this more thought I think you are fine. The flip side of these electrical specs is the inrush current at startup. I have a 3hp 220v 15amp cyclone dust collector. The manual specifies a 20amp breaker and it came with a 12 awg cord and 6-20 plug. Laughable, at startup it pulls north of 50-60 amps and trips a 20 amp breaker. I have it running via a 10/3 cord to a 30 amp twist lock outlet and 30 amp breaker. Interestingly my 3hp bandsaw, which lists an inrush current of 55 amps came with a 6-15 plug and specified a 20 amp breaker. Not sure how much this jointer pulls on startup Grizzly doesn't list it. I could put my Fluke on it and check.

[Charles Coolidge]

I looked at the Powermatic PJ882HH but it's overpriced, a dated design and the internet is lit up with quality complaints.

Then I looked a LOT closer at all the 8" jointers, inspected a Powermatic PJ882HH in person and purchased it on the spot!