Looking for feedback on cabinet plans

[Gabriel Marusic]

I'm going to be building laundry area cabinets as my first woodworking project and I wanted to see if I can get feedback on my plans. I want to be confident that I'm approaching this in the right way and am not overlooking anything. After a ton of sketching and erasing I've loosely put my plan to paper. I'm not sure if I sketched it the right way, but it's what made sense at that moment. Once I'm set on this part of the plan I will be sketching out the individual boxes and their dimensions.

As a note since I forgot to write it on the sketch, I'd like the cabinet above the washer to be 30" depth so it sits flush with the washer. The other two cabinets I'd ideally have be 26" or 24" deep.

For the construction I bought some 3/4" baltic birch plywood for the sides and bottom, and 1/4" for the back. I'll be using maple for the door stiles and rails and more of the 1/4" baltic birch for the panels. Right now for the two tall cabinets I'm leaning towards glued dados with screws for the cabinet bottom as well as the shelf divide between the upper and lower cabinets. For the top of the tall cabinet I'm thinking rabbet with glue and screws. I'm thinking a brace at the top, and middle, of the back of the tall cabinets sitting behind the 1/4" backing. The smaller cabinet will be rabbets with glue and screws and just one brace. Inside the large cabinet I'd like to have pull out shelving in the main portion and a shelf in the upper area.

I have some concerns about this plan and I don't know if I'm overthinking it, or if they're valid. Is a 96" cabinet with sliding shelves too big as a single cabinet? None of the stuff that gets stored in there is particularly heavy, but I want to be cautious as I don't want my cause of death to be "crushed by homemade cabinet while trying to pull out a roll of toilet paper".

Running a dado across the width of a 96" panel seems like it could be a real challenge on a table saw. I could see it getting a bit wobbly and ending up with an uneven line. Is that realistic?

Forgot to mention I'm thinking 3/4" fillers on the sides and top. Math was never my forte and fractions less so. I still need to work out the inner dimension of my cabinets and I hope they're not a completely obnoxious fraction for me to deal with.

432639

The current space, what a mess.

432640

Really appreciate all feedback and perspectives. People were super helpful on my earlier simple question about rulers.

[Lee Schierer]

Sliding one or even two tall cabinets into that space will likely be a problem. I would suggest making one wide cabinet for the top and a second cabinet for the left side. There really isn't a reason to build a cabinet around the washer and dryer unless you really want to try to hide them. Recesses such as shown in the photo are rarely square nor plumb. Anchor the upper cabinet to the structure above and in the walls to support it. Then fit in the lower cabinet. Unless you plan to build the cabinet in place moving a 96" tall 38" wide by 30+ inch deep cabinet from your shop to the recess will be a challenge if not impossible. If you make it one really big cabinet, there is no way to get it from your work area to the location unless you lay it on its side and then standing it up could be impossible.

Before you start you need to decide on how the doors will be hung and what sort of hinges you will use. As drawn you will need inset hinges for no face frame.

Yes cutting a dado on a table saw across a 48" width of a full sheet of plywood is going to be difficult without a competent helper and a large table surface. I would suggest a router and clamped on straight edge.

You also need to consider how you will connect the washer drain and the dryer duct. A long flexible dryer duct is not the way to go, despite what the flexible duct advertising will tell you.

[roger wiegand]

I'd suggest making your cabinet 1/2" narrower than the space and adding a trim strip on the edges that can be scribed to the wall. Chances are great that the walls aren't perfectly flat and straight. Trying to fit a 60" cabinet into a space that was, at places, 59-3/4" was quite a challenge in our bathroom.

[George Bokros]

Granted you could hook up the washer and dryer prior to installing the cabinets. Installing the cabinet above the washer & dryer after they are installed is possible though not easy. Keep in mind if you ever need to clean the dryer vent and you will, or replace the washer & dryer disconnecting the old and connecting the new ones will be very challenging.

And as Lee has said the flexible dryer vent is not the way to go. It collects a lot of lint because of the rough interior surface.

[William A Johnston]

I would bring the cabinets 1" down from the furdown/ceiling. Add a trim strip to the top and I agree give yourself some scribe room on the side of the tall cabinet and upper above the appliance for scribe. Also are you going to be able to stand the tall unit up in the room without binding with your ceiling? Possibly have a separate toe kick. Scale the side of the tall cabinet on the side view from corner to corner and make sure you have room to stand them up after you dolly them into the room.

I like using 1 1/2" fillers just in case they need to be trimmed between walls. Trimming a 3/4" filler can be a challenge sometimes.

Bill

[Gabriel Marusic]

Sliding one or even two tall cabinets into that space will likely be a problem. I would suggest making one wide cabinet for the top and a second cabinet for the left side. There really isn't a reason to build a cabinet around the washer and dryer unless you really want to try to hide them. Recesses such as shown in the photo are rarely square nor plumb. Anchor the upper cabinet to the structure above and in the walls to support it. Then fit in the lower cabinet. Unless you plan to build the cabinet in place moving a 96" tall 38" wide by 30+ inch deep cabinet from your shop to the recess will be a challenge if not impossible. If you make it one really big cabinet, there is no way to get it from your work area to the location unless you lay it on its side and then standing it up could be impossible.

Before you start you need to decide on how the doors will be hung and what sort of hinges you will use. As drawn you will need inset hinges for no face frame.

Yes cutting a dado on a table saw across a 48" width of a full sheet of plywood is going to be difficult without a competent helper and a large table surface. I would suggest a router and clamped on straight edge.

You also need to consider how you will connect the washer drain and the dryer duct. A long flexible dryer duct is not the way to go, despite what the flexible duct advertising will tell you.

Thank you, I hadn't even thought about the height being an issue with transport until you mentioned that, and it likely will be. I should have mentioned that the washer/dryer will be have the front exposed but the upper cabinet will sit flush above it and I want a panel running down the left side that is also 30" depth. I can tell you for certain that recess is definitely not square nor plumb. I had a similar opening in my dining room that we purchased cabinets for and turned into a bar, it was a lot of shimming.

I plan on using the Clip Top Blumotion hinges from Blum throughout along with the tandem system for the drawers that pull out. I got a craig jig for the hinges but will have to try to make my own for the drawer rails. I don't want to pay $100 for that Blum one.

Makes sense on the router and straight edge. I know my dad has a router as well as a long clamping straight edge that we can use, though I don't think he has the right bit. Do you have any brand/model suggestions? Also, do I need to be concerned with the width of the bit not perfectly matching the plywood thickness? I was reading that ply thickness can vary a lot between manufacturers and I'd need to account for that with my dados.

The washer and dryer are actually fully connected. I'm not sure if these condos originally came with a washer and dryer, but whoever set it up meant for them to be stacked because the dryer duct sits pretty high up. The water connections are to the right of the washer and I had to put a bigger space between the wall and the washer than I'd like to accommodate them. I'm mulling getting a kit to recess them into the wall which would allow me to free up a further 2" and make the gap on either side even.

Thank you for all the feedback.

[Gabriel Marusic]

I'd suggest making your cabinet 1/2" narrower than the space and adding a trim strip on the edges that can be scribed to the wall. Chances are great that the walls aren't perfectly flat and straight. Trying to fit a 60" cabinet into a space that was, at places, 59-3/4" was quite a challenge in our bathroom.

You're spot on. That opening is definitely not flat nor straight, if I do 3" spacers around it'll match the plywood thickness and give me a bit more wiggle room which I'll definitely need.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Granted you could hook up the washer and dryer prior to installing the cabinets. Installing the cabinet above the washer & dryer after they are installed is possible though not easy. Keep in mind if you ever need to clean the dryer vent and you will, or replace the washer & dryer disconnecting the old and connecting the new ones will be very challenging.

And as Lee has said the flexible dryer vent is not the way to go. It collects a lot of lint because of the rough interior surface.

I should've mentioned that the washer and dryer are connected already if thats what you mean. The dryer exhaust outlet sits pretty high on the wall so I think whoever set it up that way intended for them to be stacked. My thought was to install the upper cabinet first then slide the washer and dryer back in and do the rest.

[Gabriel Marusic]

I would bring the cabinets 1" down from the furdown/ceiling. Add a trim strip to the top and I agree give yourself some scribe room on the side of the tall cabinet and upper above the appliance for scribe. Also are you going to be able to stand the tall unit up in the room without binding with your ceiling? Possibly have a separate toe kick. Scale the side of the tall cabinet on the side view from corner to corner and make sure you have room to stand them up after you dolly them into the room.

I like using 1 1/2" fillers just in case they need to be trimmed between walls. Trimming a 3/4" filler can be a challenge sometimes.

Bill

I'll definitely be scribing the fillers because these walls are not straight. Is 3/4" just not enough to work with? I liked that thickness because it would match the cabinet ply thickness.

[Jim Becker]

Make sure you have a way of getting to the water controls behind the washer..."stuff happens". And also have room for a drain pan under it, if applicable for your situation and building codes.

[Mike Kees]

On the router bit question. No it does not need to match plywood thickness. I use 1/2" straight cut bits all the time when dadoing 3/4'' ish dados. Make up a "router board". Take a piece of 1/4'' plywood and rip it slightly wider than half the width of your router base plus 2". Then rip any piece of scrap or plywood two inches wide. Screw the two pieces together using the two inch piece as the "fence". Install the straight bit of choice and run your router along the "fence "of the "router board". Now you make marks for the edge of your dado and align the guide,clamp and router the dado. Use a scrap of material from your project to mark the thickness from edge already routed,make new mark,move board and rout other side. You will end up with dados that fit perfectly the thickness of plywood used.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Make sure you have a way of getting to the water controls behind the washer..."stuff happens". And also have room for a drain pan under it, if applicable for your situation and building codes.

It kind of annoys me because my water hookups are on the side of the washer, it does make it super convenient for access but they are visible. I've seen some kits to recess the fixtures into the wall and I may do that because it could free up 2" on the right and allow me to center it better. I'm with you on the drain pan, I need to find one that is less ugly. Mine is this off white plastic thing that looks like it's made from 80s computer plastic.

[Gabriel Marusic]

On the router bit question. No it does not need to match plywood thickness. I use 1/2" straight cut bits all the time when dadoing 3/4'' ish dados. Make up a "router board". Take a piece of 1/4'' plywood and rip it slightly wider than half the width of your router base plus 2". Then rip any piece of scrap or plywood two inches wide. Screw the two pieces together using the two inch piece as the "fence". Install the straight bit of choice and run your router along the "fence "of the "router board". Now you make marks for the edge of your dado and align the guide,clamp and router the dado. Use a scrap of material from your project to mark the thickness from edge already routed,make new mark,move board and rout other side. You will end up with dados that fit perfectly the thickness of plywood used.

That's a great tip, thank you.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with you on the drain pan, I need to find one that is less ugly. Mine is this off white plastic thing that looks like it's made from 80s computer plastic.

Ours is made of sheet metal...painted black with wood blocks to raise the washer up for easy service since the pan is fixed to the floor by the drain. It's also quite dirty. LOL Sorry about that!

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[David Utterback]

Make sure you have a way of getting to the water controls behind the washer..."stuff happens". And also have room for a drain pan under it, if applicable for your situation and building codes.

It happened at our house and it wasn't just a drip or a washer contents. The hose burst. I had just walked in the door from the airport. If I was one minute later and it would have been much more disastrous. We now have stainless clad hoses.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a floor to ceiling cabinet in my bathroom that I put together in the bathroom and made a little shorter than the 8 foot floor to ceiling height and covered the gap with crown molding. This is smaller than yours, however, which would affect standing it up. I'd make yours in top and bottom separate boxes. You could hide the joint with the face frame.

I also like to make the base separately unless I can't due to the design. It is easier to set and level a separate base. I don't think I would use pull out trays. Shelves should work fine and could be adjustable. I wonder if there is space to pull the tray out unless the room is big.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Ours is made of sheet metal...painted black with wood blocks to raise the washer up for easy service since the pan is fixed to the floor by the drain. It's also quite dirty. LOL Sorry about that!

432656

That black one looks a lot better than mine. My floor is espresso colored so it would blend decently well.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Questions and Considerations

Is this laundry room on the first or second floor?

How long is the dryer hose run in linear feet?

Do you have a table to fold clothes?

How accessible is the plumbing?

How do you intend to remove the washer-dryer for service?

Corrugated dryer vent pipe is not a concern IF there is sufficient pressure from the dryer. For runs over 6-12 feet, depending on the static pressure of the dryer, you might need a booster fan and auxiliary filter trap. No room in that space or your plans for this contingency.

A washer pan is fine and dandy for perhaps a gallon or two of water. If there is a true overflow, it is worthless. You’ll need a floor drain, or an electronic shutoff. Speaking of shut offs, those should be easy to get at. I shut ours down when we leave town. The washer supply lines have a life span of only a few years, so they need to be easily replaced.

Most dryers need to be serviced every year or two, by vacuuming out the area where the combustion takes place. Lint gets in there. Usually, it’s a front cover removal, but I would leave room for service.

Sometimes boxing in an appliance with fixed permanent cabinets is not the best answer for practical servicing issues. I didn’t think the area was a mess and the open shelving addressed some of my concerns

If boxing these appliances in is still your preferred course of action, I agree with the others to fabricate this using 3-4 boxes. Easier to install.

[Jim Becker]

That black one looks a lot better than mine. My floor is espresso colored so it would blend decently well.

Even the while plastic pan can be painted...wink, wink...nod, nod... ;)

And Thomas is correct...the pan is just part of the solution. It needs to have a drain that's routed away from the area; usually outside or to a sump pit.

[Robert Engel]

I think its a good idea to allow for 1 -1&1/2" filler strip against a wall to give some room for doors/drawers and also the filler strip can be scribed to the wall if desired. Same thing with the top against a ceiling. In lieu of scribing, a thin trim strip can also be applied, or if the gap is very small it can be caulked. I would allow at least 1" between machines and cab.

Definitely build in 2 units, it will make both construction and installation much easier.

I've never found dados do be either useful or necessary. In fact I avoid them totally it only adds to the amount of work, and chance of a mistake. Where the screws will never be seen, I simply screw in from the sides.

Melamine would be an excellent choice for materials.

Danny Proulx has an excellent book on building frameless cabs.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Questions and Considerations

Is this laundry room on the first or second floor?

How long is the dryer hose run in linear feet?

Do you have a table to fold clothes?

How accessible is the plumbing?

How do you intend to remove the washer-dryer for service?

Corrugated dryer vent pipe is not a concern IF there is sufficient pressure from the dryer. For runs over 6-12 feet, depending on the static pressure of the dryer, you might need a booster fan and auxiliary filter trap. No room in that space or your plans for this contingency.

A washer pan is fine and dandy for perhaps a gallon or two of water. If there is a true overflow, it is worthless. You’ll need a floor drain, or an electronic shutoff. Speaking of shut offs, those should be easy to get at. I shut ours down when we leave town. The washer supply lines have a life span of only a few years, so they need to be easily replaced.

Most dryers need to be serviced every year or two, by vacuuming out the area where the combustion takes place. Lint gets in there. Usually, it’s a front cover removal, but I would leave room for service.

Sometimes boxing in an appliance with fixed permanent cabinets is not the best answer for practical servicing issues. I didn’t think the area was a mess and the open shelving addressed some of my concerns

If boxing these appliances in is still your preferred course of action, I agree with the others to fabricate this using 3-4 boxes. Easier to install.

The washer is on the first floor of my small condo and sits on a concrete subfloor. The dryer vent pipe is maybe 2.5 feet from the dryer to the duct. The condo association mandates professional cleaning of the dryer duct and vent system on an annual basis since there was a fire from one the units a few years back. They actually bring in a service and we all have to pay for it. Access to the water lines from the wall to the dryer is arguably a bit to easy. The spigots are in the space to the right of the dryer and sit about 2' back. Without moving anything I can very easily turn them off or on. I'm actually thinking I may recess them into the wall to save a few inches of space as access to them isn't a concern. That side of the opening won't have a panel and will be exposed wall. While the cabinets themselves are different, this layout captures what I'm talking about. https://www.houzz.com/photos/sunnyslope-laundry-room-traditional-laundry-room-portland-phvw-vp~7526321 The dryer actually slides out very easily because of the plastic pan. I really only need a couple of inches of wiggle room on either side and I can get it slid out in a few minutes.

This opening actually sits in the hallway of my condo and is a real eyesore for me to look at. It's right in between my bedroom and bathroom so I have to pass by it a lot. If it was it's own room and not out in the open it wouldn't bother me as much. I wish I had room for a folding table, everything gets laid out on my bed and folded there.

I will definitely do 4 cabinets as you and others have suggested, that should be a pretty easy update for me.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Even the while plastic pan can be painted...wink, wink...nod, nod... ;)

And Thomas is correct...the pan is just part of the solution. It needs to have a drain that's routed away from the area; usually outside or to a sump pit.

haha, yeah. I've definitely mulled it. I wonder if I could contact the manufacturer and get the actual paint color code from them and buy a new metal one and spray it to match the machine. It would look a lot better and be a real minimal amount of work. I wish I could set up a drain but unfortunately my condo doesn't allow for that.

[Gabriel Marusic]

I think its a good idea to allow for 1 -1&1/2" filler strip against a wall to give some room for doors/drawers and also the filler strip can be scribed to the wall if desired. Same thing with the top against a ceiling. In lieu of scribing, a thin trim strip can also be applied, or if the gap is very small it can be caulked. I would allow at least 1" between machines and cab.

Definitely build in 2 units, it will make both construction and installation much easier.

I've never found dados do be either useful or necessary. In fact I avoid them totally it only adds to the amount of work, and chance of a mistake. Where the screws will never be seen, I simply screw in from the sides.

Melamine would be an excellent choice for materials.

Danny Proulx has an excellent book on building frameless cabs.

You're right, the drawers need room to clear the doors which will have pulls on them that probably stick out at least an inch. I'll definitely be scribing as well since the walls are pretty out of wack. Going without dados would certainly be easier, don't they add a lot of extra strength though? I have maybe 2 screws that will potentially be seen from the sides. I've actually already purchased 6 sheets of russian birch ply so I can't make a materials change at this point. Thank you for the suggestion on the book, I'm going to look that up. Most of my research has come from youtube videos and reading posts around here.

[Dave Sabo]

Make your life easier and forget the dadoes. There really isn't a compelling reason to use them, especially if you aren't tooled up to make them easily and efficiently.

Dowels and or confirmat screws are plenty strong and have the advantage of being quick and easy to execute with a minimum of tools. An easy way around the hinge clearance issue is to use 155deg. zero protrusion hinges. These move the doors entirely out of the way and allow for full width rollouts. I'd suggest laying out the drawer positions before you assemble the cabinets because uneven / racked drawers are a pain. Installing them in-situ is doable, but not fun. Especially if you don;t have a reliable and accurate jig.