Super Nova II chuck

[Shawn Siegrist]

I have a 1 1/4” direct thread Super Nova II chuck. I’ve had the chuck for about a week, very happy with it. Maybe I’m missing something obvious but what is the best way to remove the chuck from the lathe? There doesn’t appear to be flat spots for a wrench, any suggestions???

Thanks,
Shawn

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Personally, I use the chuck key. Give it a nice hard hit and it should pop free. Steady pressure, less so.

[Todd Trebuna]

Unscrew set screw. Set spindle lock. Open jaws, just far enough to insert a 3/4 inch dowel between jaws and apply downward force. It'll pop free.

[Shawn Siegrist]

Thank you!

[Todd Trebuna]

Certainly. Knockout bars work too, but I’d rather not put metal on metal.

[Paul Haus]

When mounting the chuck, do you have anything between the arbor and the chuck? There are special washers designed just for that purpose, they help keeping the chuck from sticking. If you don't have one, they are easy to make from old milk jugs. You would be surprised how the use of the washer will improve the ease of removing the chuck.

[richard shelby]

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Lock-Lathe-Spindle-Washer-1-1/dp/B0035Y7MXQ

[John K Jordan]

I have a 1 1/4” direct thread Super Nova II chuck. ... There doesn’t appear to be flat spots for a wrench, any suggestions???

Thanks,
Shawn

I personally think that is a disadvantage to the Nova direct-threaded chucks. I always use a chuck wrench when removing chucks from the lathe. Whacking the chuck key is a common method but I've seen damage from that. Putting a board or rod or something between the jaws to apply torque doesn't work if I want to leave the piece in the chuck which I do often. The plastic washer can make the chuck easier to remove but two cautions: the chuck can more easily loosen when you don't want it to (may need to use the set screw lock) and some have reported a washer reduced the precision, a possible problem if removing and remounting the chuck while leaving work in the jaws.

All my Nova/Teknatool chucks have the inserts with flats to use the wrench except for one. I bought a Titan direct thread and it's like you say, no flat for the wrench. I'm planning to put it on the milling machine and make a couple of flats for the wrench.

JKJ

[jared herbert]

I have tried using the plastic milk jug washer. Never got good results. Always seemed to wobble for me

[Paul Haus]

I have tried using the plastic milk jug washer. Never got good results. Always seemed to wobble for me
Jared
Only 2 thoughts I have: Is the hole a snug fit or sloppy? Did you cut the washer out of the flat part of the jug or trimmed it so it's flat? I could see having a problem if the washer didn't fit flat between the chuck and the lathe arbor. I have been using commercial and jug washers for a couple of years now, and honestly cannot tell the difference between the two. Of course I used a hole saw to cut the inner hole and shears to cut the O.D. on them. I have used them with the chuck and face plate with similar results. Funny thing, I believe the shipping on the commercial washer is more than the cost of the washer.

[Robert D Evans]

Record Power has a Universal wrench #62825 that would probably work on the Super Nova II. The only problem is that you will have to order it from the U.K. if you only want the wrench. It comes in the Record Power chuck kits and works great. I've used it for faceplates and the Oneway Stronghold chuck as well.

https://www.recordpower.co.uk/assets/products/product_images/prod_000770_asset_0_1428490422.jpg

[John K Jordan]

Jared
Only 2 thoughts I have: Is the hole a snug fit or sloppy? Did you cut the washer out of the flat part of the jug or trimmed it so it's flat? I could see having a problem if the washer didn't fit flat between the chuck and the lathe arbor. I have been using commercial and jug washers for a couple of years now, and honestly cannot tell the difference between the two. Of course I used a hole saw to cut the inner hole and shears to cut the O.D. on them. I have used them with the chuck and face plate with similar results. Funny thing, I believe the shipping on the commercial washer is more than the cost of the washer.

I've experimented with washers I bought and cut one myself from a milk jug. I wasn't happy with either and quit using them. (chuck wasn't secure enough for me) I later read and heard that some had trouble with the chuck running true with washers, a problem for turning very thin walls on large things like cowboy hats.

But maybe it's the way I mount a chuck. I've seen some tighten a chuck with a wrench but I don't do that. I thread it on by hand then "seat" it with a calibrated flick of the wrist for the last 1/8 turn or so. This sets the chuck so securely it takes a good force with the wrench to remove (I smack the wrench with the heel of my hand). For the kind of turning I do a chuck has never come loose either on deceleration or turning/acceleration in reverse. I don't use the locking set screw. Been working this way for close to 20 years. But I almost never turn massively heavy blanks - if I did I'd probably use the locking screw.

[William C Rogers]

I agree with John regarding the washer. It really isn’t necessary and can cause problems. I don’t have the SuperNova direct thread, but I do have the Axminister SK114 that poses a similar problem. I had a spanner wrench that fit the chuck using the drive hex. That works very well. I’ll take a picture later and add it to this thread. A couple of other things, Always lubricate the threads, you should never spin “slap” the chuck into place. Bring the chuck to the face hand tight and use your tightening tool to seat it to the face.

[Shawn Siegrist]

I ordered a spanner wrench from nova, once it arrives I’m going to take the wrench and chuck to a buddy that has a mill and ask him to mill me two flats on the chuck to use the wrench on. I’m surprised the direct thread chucks don’t have that already.

[William C Rogers]

I had one of the Nova wrenches when I was using the Nova chucks. Just a piece of stamped sheet metal. It was ok, but not very robust. When I bought my Axminister SK114 it has the same problem as the direct thread Nova. I had a old spanner wrench I’m think was part of an auction that I never used. It fit the Axminister perfectly. My opinion is this works better than a sheet metal wrench.

[Michael Mills]

Instead of any plastic I use a washer (thrust bearing washer) instead. I believe they are ground to .005, good enough for me.
For the chuck to get stuck the washer would have to "stick" to the headstock and also to the chuck. I'v never had a problem but do apply a light oil to each side.
https://www.amazon.com/Koyo-TRC-1625-Thrust-Roller-Bearing/dp/B006KT38PO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=koyo+thrust+bearing+washer+1-1%2F4&qid=1589246260&sr=8-6
Almost any size is available; bore, exterior, and thickness.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I ordered a spanner wrench from nova, once it arrives I’m going to take the wrench and chuck to a buddy that has a mill and ask him to mill me two flats on the chuck to use the wrench on. I’m surprised the direct thread chucks don’t have that already.

Be careful when you mill the slots. Be sure you don't mill off metal from the critical seating surface. I don't know what your direct thread chuck looks like, all mine have adapters. From what I see, there's not a lot of metal to mill.
Just my $0.02.

[Shawn Siegrist]

I think I’m going to pass on milling flat spots on the chuck, there just isn’t enough metal. Clamping a board between the jaws is easy enough.

I am disappointed that the chucks aren’t designed to have flat spots for a wrench.

[richard shelby]

What about using an oil filter wrench? They come in all sizes.

[William C Rogers]

I think I’m going to pass on milling flat spots on the chuck, there just isn’t enough metal. Clamping a board between the jaws is easy enough.

I am disappointed that the chucks aren’t designed to have flat spots for a wrench.

There are times that you don’t want to remove the piece from the chuck and put something else on the lathe. I still think using a spanner wrench is the best option. I did the board clamping until I figured out a better option.

[Dave Bunge]

I had a spanner wrench that fit the chuck using the drive hex. That works very well.

William, where did you get your spanner wrench?

There are a couple of adjustable hook spanner wrenches on Amazon that look like they would work, one at $20, another at $50. Not sure I want to spend that much on a specialized tool, but I do cringe every time I put a board (or, true confessions, my knock out bar) between the jaws to remove my direct threaded SN2's.

[William C Rogers]

William, where did you get your spanner wrench?

There are a couple of adjustable hook spanner wrenches on Amazon that look like they would work, one at $20, another at $50. Not sure I want to spend that much on a specialized tool, but I do cringe every time I put a board (or, true confessions, my knock out bar) between the jaws to remove my direct threaded SN2's.


Dave

I don’t remember where/when I got this wrench. My guess it was in a lot of auction tools from many years ago. It is an adjustable Armstrong 4 1/2 - 6 1/4 spanner. My chuck is 4 1/2 diameter and fits perfect. I don’t know the diameter of the Nova chuck. I know these can be pricy and I would look at eBay for one. It would need to be the size for the Nova chuck body diameter. The other John Jordan (as JKJ would say) did a demo at our club and one of the things he stressed was never to spin the chuck on. Bring it to the spindle face and then tighten moderately with a wrench. He also used WD40 on the spindle threads before installing the chuck. I have been doing that (except I put some never seize on my spindle threads about once every couple of weeks) and have not had any of my chucks “stuck” since over 1 1/2 years.

[John K Jordan]

....The other John Jordan (as JKJ would say) did a demo at our club and one of the things he stressed was never to spin the chuck on. ...

Everyone has an opinion. What was the reason given?

I suspect spinning it too hard by big green Incredible Hulk hands could create a problem.

JKJ[/QUOTE]

[William C Rogers]

Everyone has an opinion. What was the reason given?

I suspect spinning it too hard by big green Incredible Hulk hands could create a problem.

JKJ[/QUOTE]

John said that the chuck would never require more to remove it than to install it. I have been tightening my chuck by hand for the last year and half and it works. I have not had any chuck get “stuck” and zero problems doing it that way. Before I use to spin it on and occasionally the chuck would get stuck, sometimes worse that other times. No more.

[Mike Peace]

Record Power has a Universal wrench #62825 that would probably work on the Super Nova II. The only problem is that you will have to order it from the U.K. if you only want the wrench. It comes in the Record Power chuck kits and works great. I've used it for faceplates and the Oneway Stronghold chuck as well.

https://www.recordpower.co.uk/assets/products/product_images/prod_000770_asset_0_1428490422.jpg
Logic says it would "probably work" work but the RP wrench uses a hole in the RP adapter that is not on the direct threaded SN2. I have Teknatool and RP chucks and the wrench.

[Paul Haus]

What about using an oil filter wrench? They come in all sizes.
Or maybe a strap clamp?

[Gary Click]

Home Depot Strap Wrench out of the plumbing department solves the problem with not having wrench flats. Cheap no damage solution.

gary

[Eric Cothern]

If it is just the chuck, I put a piece of scrap wood, may half inch thick, perpendicular to the chuck, tighten down the jaws and lever it loose.