14 inch bandsaw, Laguna or Rikon

[Bill Dempsey]

Well, search for adding a 14 inch bandsaw to the shop now down to Laguna 14bx and Rikon 10-326. Both appear to have features I'm looking for, generally.

I'm leaning toward the Laguna, but have concerns about the ceramic guides. A bit of research indicates people either love or hate them. I'd like to hear from experienced woodworkers here.

Btw, the Rikon has a clever looking guide set up, but it's the conventional bearing type. Also Rikon has 5 year warrantee.

[Todd Solomon]

Also in the market, I can't tell you how many hours I've read and watched reviews on those two models. My conclusion is those are the two best saws in that price range.

On Amazon, the Laguna has 34 reviews, 67% of which are 5 stars, and 9% 1 stars.
The Rikon has about the same number, 38 reviews. 88% 5 stars, and 4% 1 stars.
That's a big difference.

Lots of video reviews on YouTube as well that are very informative. I highly recommend watching and listening to the bad as well as the good.

Reading the reviews, you find in the case of Laguna, that most of the issues are initial quality issues- table flatness and vibration due to wheel runout. Unfortunately, it has taken a long time to resolve those issues for some buyers.

It seems that if you get a Laguna without initial quality issues, they are exceptional. I have considered making a three hour drive to a Woodcraft dealer that has one set up on the floor. In that case, I would take a couple of quick measurements and turn it on to verify that it will perform well. But I personally won't buy a Laguna unless i am able to inspect it first hand. If I didn't have that option, I'd get a Rikon.

[Edwin Santos]

Not trying to trivialize the decision, but instead of hours of research, pick one, and dedicate the time to tuning it, using it and having a good time with it. Your experience and skill level will be the much bigger factor in the results you get from whatever bandsaw you choose.

Neither of these choices are "bad". The guides can be retrofit in the unlikely event you later decide they were the wrong kind.

In terms of selecting which one, flip a coin. When it's in the air, you'll know which side you're hoping for.

Buy that one.

Edwin

[Todd Solomon]

Actually I think the research is time well spent. There were a couple of video reviews of bandsaws with issues that can't be tuned out. Tables so far out of flatness that you can't push the work through without it catching. Wheels that runout so much that the saw vibrates excessively was another issue that you can't tune out. It took many months for those owners to get replacement parts in those cases. I don't want to go through that.


Not trying to trivialize the decision, but instead of hours of research, pick one, and dedicate the time to tuning it, using it and having a good time with it. Your experience and skill level will be the much bigger factor in the results you get from whatever bandsaw you choose.

Neither of these choices are "bad". The guides can be retrofit in the unlikely event you later decide they were the wrong kind.

In terms of selecting which one, flip a coin. When it's in the air, you'll know which side you're hoping for.

Buy that one.

Edwin

[richard poitras]

I like the guides on my Laguna as I have had multiple saw, ceramic are the best in my opion.

[Paul F Mills]

I have the Rikon and love it.

is there a shop nearby where you could try one before deciding?

[Edwin Santos]

Actually I think the research is time well spent. There were a couple of video reviews of bandsaws with issues that can't be tuned out. Tables so far out of flatness that you can't push the work through without it catching. Wheels that runout so much that the saw vibrates excessively was another issue that you can't tune out. It took many months for those owners to get replacement parts in those cases. I don't want to go through that.

Well I stand corrected. I wasn't aware that the quality control problems with new bandsaws these days were that significant. If that is the case, then yes, it might be best if there were a way for you to evaluate the specific machine you are considering buying so you can check out the table flatness, wheel runout and any other criteria you are concerned about. Bandsaws are really very uncomplicated machines which is why it is both surprising and disappointing to hear about the problems.
I will say that one of the pitfalls of the abundant internet reviews is that they are mostly people's opinions, and it can be really hard to distinguish the opinion of someone who knows what they're talking about from someone who doesn't.

I own two bandsaws, one is a Laguna (Meber) 16 that I bought new in 1999, and the second is a MM20 bought new in 2018. The Minimax was perfectly tuned right out of the crate. The Laguna was pretty good too but I eventually learned it needed a table adjustment to eliminate drift. I've gotten excellent results from both and wouldn't part with either.

When I took a two week workshop at Anderson Ranch Arts Center, there were three bandsaws in the machine room. One was a Powermatic, one was an Aggazani. The smallest was a 14" Jet which, by the third or fourth day, everyone in the class concluded was an absolute piece of junk and nobody wanted to have anything to do with it.
The instructor, Michael Fortune, mumbled something about staying late and tinkering with it. By the end of the next day, the piece of junk Jet, which now performed like a well tuned violin, was everyone's favorite, and we all waited in line to use it because it cut so beautifully. If any of us had made a video review of that Jet prior to Michael's tuning, let's just say the review would not have been favorable.

[Rob Luter]

I bought the Rikon last summer and have been very happy. It took a while to get everything dialed in just right but once done it's a solid performer. I've used 3/8 blades for curves and 3/4 blades for some resawing too. It has plenty of horsepower for resawing 10" white oak. The 110V receptacle is handy for a work light. The one weak link in my opinion is the fence system. It has an alignment feature that's really fussy, and the clamping knobs used to lock things down are too small to generate the proper torque. First world problems I guess.

432580

[Jim Becker]

There is an important thing that's lurking in this thread....the absolute fact that regardless of what machine gets chosen, one cannot assume it's going to work perfectly out of the crate regardless of brand/model and size. Sometimes we get lucky, but most of the time, "something" is going to need adjustment for the machine to work optimally to its capability. It doesn't matter how much was paid, either...even high end equipment needs to be checked upon arrival and adjustments made in many cases. I don't have an opinion on the original question between the Laguna or Rikon...I don't know either well enough.

[Scott Bernstein]

I have the Laguna 14 SUV ("souped-up version"). It has a little extra re-saw capacity over the standard 14" and a larger 3hp motor. I bought it before I knew much about bandsaws, and it's worked out pretty well. I like the low table and extra horsepower. Good dust collection, cuts great. Not as smooth a cut as my tables, but pretty good for a bandsaw.

[hugh lonner]

I have the Laguna 14BX and love it. My local store has both Rikon and Laguna and speak highly of both. I noticed many of the people who work there have the Rikon, but that may be because it is a little cheaper. I haven't used the Rikon, but I think you can't go wrong with either (assuming you get one of the majority that have no QC issues).

If the Rikon does not have a break (I don't remember) I'd push for the Laguna as I LOVE the break. It is amazing how often I use it and smile that I can stop the saw instantly and safely move to the next thing I wanted to do. The 18BX wasn't out when I got mine and I never looked at its price, since I'm not upgrading, but one of the guys at the local woodworking shop who mentioned owning the 14 inch Rikon said the 18BX is his dream saw and I can see why if it has all the virtues of the 14BX and a bigger table (I've never needed more resaw capacity than I've got with the 14BX but have wanted more width to not have to change over to the table saw).

I have had to call Laguna customer service over two minor things (once in warranty once out) and both times found them great in spite of warnings I'd seen online on a few old threads.

I did upgrade the bearings eventually to Carter guides, but already was a big fan of the saw before that (it, for example, makes me smile far more than my SS table saw does in spite of being much less expensive).

[Harold Patterson]

I have owned a Laguna 14/12 Which is similar to the 14Bx for quite some time. I think you will love the guides. They are very easy to adjust. One thing that will help is to move the knob from the back position on the lower guide to the front. This only causes an issue if you have to tilt the table. Then you can switch it back.

[Todd Solomon]

Great info, sounds like both Rikon and Laguna are excellent saws. I had been trying to buy a used Laguna 16HD, but the seller has gone AWOL, lol. So I'm staying on the Laguna or Rikon hunt, hoping something used comes up. I may break down and buy new before long.

[michael dilday]

How about the Jet 14" JWBS14-SFX. How does that compare? That is the saw I have been looking at.

[Curt Putnam]

For the kind of money a 14" Laguna or Rikon go for you can get a 17" Grizzly. I got talked into that route and could not be happier. Of course, if you have local experts for one brand or the other that could sway the decision. I use mine mainly as a tablesaw replacement, therefore I value the fact that the G0513X2 will tension a 3/4" blade.

[John Goodin]

I was in same spot a year ago with the exact same models. I went with the Rikon and love it but probably would love the Laguna as much. Both are solid saws with good reputations.

[Alex Zeller]

When I was looking I looked at the things that couldn't be easily upgraded. How robust is the trunnion and how heavy is it. To me a heavier saw means thicker metal was used somewhere. The spine of these saws is everything. If it flexes then it's not going to hold the tension on the blade. The more resaw capacity the stronger it needs to be. That translates to me more weight.

[Bill Dempsey]

Thanks to all for the input. I ordered the laguna today, will come back with my experience when appropriate.

[Dan Gaylin]

Michael —

I own the Jet 14SFX and love it. At the time a bought it, it was cheaper than the Laguna and came with a much better resaw fence. I’ve had no problems with it and other than adjusting the guides it was perfect out of the box. Blade changes are easy. I do wish it had a brake.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the 14 BX. I miss my old 16HD, but I find the BX to be a very capable saw.

[Scott Brader]

I have had the Laguna 14bx 220V version for about a month and I love it. I, too, was deciding between the Rikon and Laguna and picked the Laguna largely because of the brake and some input from the owner of my local Woodcraft store. I do a fair amount of business with them and trust them to be straight with me. I set it up using the techniques Alex Snodgrass shows in his setup video and it has performed great.

[Lou Griffin]

Did anyone ever make the decision to buy and what was your choice? I’m looking at these two saws as well and am leaning towards the Laguna but would like to hear if the love /hate issue with the guides still going on or is there a consensus on which is better?

[John Goodin]

Take comfort in knowing you can't really make a mistake.

Several years ago I did a lot of research on the Rikon and Laguna 1412. I love the research. Never could find a feature that would tip the scale one way or the other. Ended up with the Rikon and love it. Pretty sure I would feel the same with the Laguna.

BTW, Highland Woodworking sells a great resaw blade.

[Curt Harms]

I have an older model Rikon,10-325. After owning it for several years I did run into a bit of an issue. When I got it I'd run the band in the middle of the upper wheel and the band would track toward the front of the lower whee. It cut great including resaw so I didn't mess with it. I recently bought a band that didn't want to track straight so thought I'd try getting the band to track in the middle of both wheels. I was able to accomplish that but not long after the drive belt broke. The driven pulley is part of the lower wheel and when I messed with the blade tracking setting the drive belt wanted to track toward the front of the pulley. The belt no longer stayed in the grooves (poly V type belt) and wore excessively. I've since removed some of the adjustment I made to the lower wheel and everything seems happy again. I haven't checked for coplanarity of the wheels, I should do that.

[Lou Griffin]

Well I made the decision to buy the Laguna 1412, if anyone has any assembly tips or some trick setup process that isn’t in the manual or videos could you let me know please? Also does anyone have a suggestion for a good bright light that will not only light the work table but reach under it as well for lower guide block adjustments… thanks, Lou

[David Publicover]

Congratulations on the new saw. No tips on assembly but my 18BX went together smoothly. I recently bought a LED rechargeable light with a magnetic base for my bandsaw and it works well. It sits under the upper wheel cover most of the time but can move to where you need it. I paid $30 at the local BORG.

[Rob Luter]

Well I made the decision to buy the Laguna 1412, if anyone has any assembly tips or some trick setup process that isn’t in the manual or videos could you let me know please? Also does anyone have a suggestion for a good bright light that will not only light the work table but reach under it as well for lower guide block adjustments… thanks, Lou

I have one of these on my Rikon. It has a magnetic base that can be relocated where ever you want. My Rikon has a 110V receptacle so the corded design works well. It's super bright and illuminates the whole table. At $20 you can't go wrong. They have a number of other offerings too.

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/lamps/products/galaxy-multipurpose-lathe-lamp

[Lou Griffin]

So I got it all assembled and set up, took a while to get the fence squared to the table- blade install went smoothly, don’t know why some people say the guides are hard to adjust, I thought it was fairly easy- I did switch there lower thrust adjuster knob to the outside, can’t angle the table but I never do anyway. But after I put the dust baffle in just prior to closing it up and firing it up, I spun the wheels one more time and heard a grinding noise turns out the blade I bought is bent…. After closer inspection, it was moving against the guides too but it didn’t make any noise - it looks like the blade has about a 1/8-1/4” twist about 1.5” long so I didn’t spin it up, hope Woodcraft will give me a different one tomorrow…. It’s a Starrett 1/2” 4 tpi - I was just going to use it to check out the saw and get some Timberwolf blades online but maybe I’ll get one at Woodcraft too….

[Barry McFadden]

I have an older model Rikon,10-325. After owning it for several years I did run into a bit of an issue. When I got it I'd run the band in the middle of the upper wheel and the band would track toward the front of the lower whee. It cut great including resaw so I didn't mess with it. I recently bought a band that didn't want to track straight so thought I'd try getting the band to track in the middle of both wheels. I was able to accomplish that but not long after the drive belt broke. The driven pulley is part of the lower wheel and when I messed with the blade tracking setting the drive belt wanted to track toward the front of the pulley. The belt no longer stayed in the grooves (poly V type belt) and wore excessively. I've since removed some of the adjustment I made to the lower wheel and everything seems happy again. I haven't checked for coplanarity of the wheels, I should do that.

I have a Rikon 10-326 bandsaw that works great..no drift or problems at all. The blade is set so the deepest part of the gullet is in the center of the upper wheel which makes the blade run a little towards the front on the bottom wheel. There are probably different arguments for "coplanar or not" but I believe in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&t=1750s ( at the 6:00 mark) and have never touched the bottom wheel.

[Charlie Jones]

I have been using my 14-12 for two years now. It is a great saw. Two things it could use are a brake and I wish the switch knob illuminated when the saw was on rather than just when it has power. The saw is so quiet I have almost forgotten it on a couple of times.

[Lou Griffin]

Finally got a good blade on the 1412, made some test cuts and adjustments, all seems good except the fore/aft square check is off with about 1/16” gap at the bottom the blade, ( need to adjust the back end of the trunion up for it to be perfect) how critical is this adjustment? To me it seems that the blade will just enter the cut at the table end of the wood first vs being equal at top and bottom. Will that have an effect on any other aspect of the cut? Adjusting the table for fore/aft truing is a bit of a pain with the table in place as the trunion needs to be adjusted. Is it worth it for 1/16” ? Thanks for any help….