Inset Kitchen Sink false fronts

[Troy Tiberi]

Long time browser, first time poster here!
I’m building inset kitchen cabinets, and I hit a snag with the false/dummy (I’m not sure what they should be called) sink fronts. In hindsight, I’m realizing I should have made two larger doors or one long false drawer front, or at least installed it all before the sink and countertop were installed. Alas, I’m a newbie with a bigger imagination than skill (I may not have attempted this kitchen build otherwise!), so this is the situation that I’m in now.
Does anyone have any ideas of the best way to install two inset false fronts in these openings? I’m using 3/4 hard maple. The face frames are also 3/4 hard maple. The middle stile is 1 1/2” wide, and the end stiles have about 9/16” reveal inside the cabinets. There’s about 1 1/2” of space from the inside of the middle stile to the sink, so I don’t have much working room to attach anything to the back of the opening.
I would be greatly appreciate if anyone has a solution for me!
Please see attached pictures for reference. (the doors and drawers will be painted also once I get some warmer weather!)
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[Dave Sabo]

The quick & dirty and cheap way:

Make some 1/4" thick backer pieces that span top to bottom on the left and right of each opening. Glue them onto the backs of the faceframes with construction adhesive. Now make your false fronts and glue those onto the backers you installed yesterday, shimming the reveals on all sides until the adhesive sets up.

[Jim Becker]

Glue and clamp a backer board across the width that fills the openings entirely...you should be able to use screws at the outer stiles based on the photos with or without a right-angle drill/driver. It doesn't have to be thick and heavy. Tack glue the false fronts to that board. Ideally you would have made the false fronts the exact size of the openings and just cut a reveal recess around the perimeter for visual purposes. If you didn't, be sure to paint the backer board black at the perimeters so it's "invisible" through the cracks. Oh, if your false fronts get pulls, be sure they are installed first and the fastener is recessed so you can get those fronts flat on the backer board.

[Paul F Franklin]

Or you could use cabinet false front clips. Google will find you many varieties that can be installed after the fact. They allow you to remove and replace the fronts at will, although in your case that's not really needed.

[John TenEyck]

Don't beat yourself up. Inset drawer fronts and doors for your first kitchen cabinets. You are a brave man, and the results look great.

John

[Bill Dufour]

Install a couple of glued on boards on the inside. Then install dummy drawer fronts with handles. Use really long screws for the handles. Magnets would also work. Maybe magnets just to hold them tight while the glue dries and abandon the magnets in place after the glue is dry.
Bill D

[George Bokros]

I had the same issue with a vanity I built. I made a false drawer front screwed two pieces of wood to the back of the false front that i could still turn to 90* to the opening after inserting the false front into cabinet opening.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Troy, very nicely done. Surprised that this was maiden vogyage, as it certainly looks pro quality.

[Sam Puhalovich]

I use a variation of the french cleat ... the false-front is then readily removable providing directional eye-sight if any work needs to be done.

432443

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I use a variation of the french cleat ... the false-front is then readily removable providing directional eye-sight if any work needs to be done.

432443

Dirty easy trick. Thanks for share.

When I made our kitchen I had one of those and simply glued it at place. Your idea is more convenient.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Sam. I'm in agreement with Osvaldo on this: GREAT IDEA. Thank you for sharing. Patrick

[Jared Sankovich]

Glue and clamp a backer board across the width that fills the openings entirely...you should be able to use screws at the outer stiles based on the photos with or without a right-angle drill/driver. It doesn't have to be thick and heavy. Tack glue the false fronts to that board. Ideally you would have made the false fronts the exact size of the openings and just cut a reveal recess around the perimeter for visual purposes. If you didn't, be sure to paint the backer board black at the perimeters so it's "invisible" through the cracks. Oh, if your false fronts get pulls, be sure they are installed first and the fastener is recessed so you can get those fronts flat on the backer board.

This.. just attach the false fronts like a end panel false door

[Jim Becker]

I use a variation of the french cleat ... the false-front is then readily removable providing directional eye-sight if any work needs to be done.

432443

Dang...that's a really great idea!!

[Troy Tiberi]

Thank you all so much for the feedback!
Jim Becker, I’ve read so many of your responses on other posts that have been extremely helpful. Thank you for your investment in helping us all develop our skills!
Sam, I love that idea. I may need to modify that idea a bit for the inset front, but I like that it could be removable if needed.
I felt pretty lost last week, but I feel great about having a few options moving forward. So, thank you!

[Jared Sankovich]

Dang...that's a really great idea!!

I'm lost on how that would work for inset?

I like it better than the plastic clips for overlay though.

[Jim Becker]

I'm lost on how that would work for inset?

I like it better than the plastic clips for overlay though.

"D'oh!" You're correct...not going to work for inset, but it's still a great idea for overlay!

[Sam Puhalovich]

Troy ... you can make wider pieces to attach to the inside ... back ... of the stiles.

[Larry Edgerton]

I do my false fronts the same way, matching the drawers to the doors. Don't like the long drawer front, looks fake, and people pay me a lot to design and build their kitchens. I glue and screw a piece of 3/8 BB on the back side and use drawer front adjusters to install.

[Troy Tiberi]

I finally found a fantastic solution to the inset false sink front dilemma. A friend suggested running a piece of metal behind the opening and then embedding magnets in the false fronts. I used a piece of angle iron (screwed from inside the cabinet into the face frame on each side; it’s rigid enough that it doesn’t need connected to the center stile) and then used neodymium magnets in the drawer fronts. I got a pack of 10 magnets from Amazon for about $10. The solution worked great. The false fronts are removable if needed, but the magnets hold them solidly in place. They don’t move at all on their own, but with a little pressure, I’m able to slide them in the opening to get the desired spacing. It was a super easy solution!
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[Alex Atkinson]

'I’m building inset kitchen cabinets, and I hit a snag with the false/dummy (I’m not sure what they should be called) sink fronts. In hindsight, I’m realizing I should have made two larger doors or one long false drawer front, or at least installed it all before the sink (https://cookspot.org/best-granite-sinks/) and countertop were installed.'
It's not the worst thing you could do. Really, don't panic. Here are plenty of ideas how to fix it. ANyway, you've made a great work already and just don't give up.

[Justin Rapp]

I know you have your answer - but just a compliment - they look fantastic.