Stanley plane jig for tote repair & a few questions

[Mike Manning]

I had started making a jig to repair a few Stanley bench plane totes that are broken. I had started making a wooden jig similar to what Jim Koepke uses when I recalled another Stanley jig he uses and that I had an old rusty no 5 with a half-dollar sized hole in one of the sides. So here's my new Stanley tote repair jig. It is a Stanley, literally. :0) It also turned out I have about 18" of threaded rod laying around that is the same thread as the tote/knob rods. I'll trim out a piece of wood shaped to the top of the tote and put a wing nut above that to apply a bit of pressure while the epoxy cures.

It seems epoxy is the recommended adhesive agent people use for tote repairs. I've never used epoxy and don't have any in the shop. I want these totes fixed properly. I see lots of epoxy brands. Are they all created equal? I'm hoping there's a good reasonably priced epoxy that I can reuse. I've got two rosewood totes with clean breaks that should repair nicely. I see Bob Smith Industries epoxy reasonably priced, under $10. It comes in 2 parts with a couple of 4.5 oz bottles. Anyone used this and recommend it?

I've read Jim and others saying they save the rosewood sawdust and add it to the epoxy so the repair blends in better. Is it okay to include the lacquer/shellac/varnish on the totes in addition to the sawdust when mixing with the epoxy?

That donor no 5 was a type 14 and rusty but it had extremely well conditioned tote and knob. Go figure.


Thanks!
Mike

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[steven c newman]

have use the 2-part epoxy a few times...the ones in a syringe. I have to coat the rod/bolt so the epoxy does not stick to it.....I use the bolt that came with the broken tote...Tighten that done as a clamp, the rod will keep thing aligned, maybe add a washer for the brass nut to press against.

Some use the "lead" shavings from a No. 2 pencil, to colour the epoxy....gives the rosewood one more black grain line...IF you have an old Boston pencil sharpener, the hand cranked version, use the "shavings" out of that. Red wood from the pencil and the black from the lead...

[Jim Koepke]

Is it okay to include the lacquer/shellac/varnish on the totes in addition to the sawdust when mixing with the epoxy?

It is best to let the epoxy set before applying any finish.

This is my tote clamp:

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If too much epoxy is used it may grab the threads. Usually chucking it up in a drill motor will break it free.

Johnny Kleso's web site gave me the idea for this > http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/handle_repair/handle.htm

jtk

[Oskar Sedell]

if the breaks are clean, maybe there is no need for coloring the epoxy? A very thin glueline wont be seen, and I would be afraid that the particles you mix up in the epoxy actually makes the fit worse.

For epoxy, as I have learned there are two factors that affect strength a lot. Good mixing of the two components, and heat when curing. If possible I put epoxy to harden in the oven between 50 and 100 degrees Celsius.

Also degrease the surfaces before.

Good luck

[Jim Koepke]

if the breaks are clean, maybe there is no need for coloring the epoxy? A very thin glueline wont be seen, and I would be afraid that the particles you mix up in the epoxy actually makes the fit worse.

For epoxy, as I have learned there are two factors that affect strength a lot. Good mixing of the two components, and heat when curing. If possible I put epoxy to harden in the oven between 50 and 100 degrees Celsius.

Also degrease the surfaces before.

Good luck

Clean breaks are easy to repair and often without any wood dust. Sometimes my use of wood dust is added after the two piece are put together by pressing the wood dust into the cracks before the epoxy sets. Epoxy is actually very good at gap filling so fine wood dust isn't a problem. Big chunks or wood crumbs might weaken a joint.

jtk