Biesemeier fence pads

[Brian Runau]

I have this on my table saw and the (I assume) the nylon pads are wearing the cast iron on the table where they slide. They still protrude below the side of the fence so it is not the wood rubbing on the cast iron. Since I still have clearance not sure why they are starting to show wear on the cast iron? Thanks. Brian

[Bruce Lowekamp]

Are you sure the pads are causing wear on the cast iron vs just scuffing wax/glide coat you have on the top? I assume you checked the pads to see if you got something embedded in them?

I just posted a thread last week and got advice about replacing the pads on the T-square end of a fence (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?282351-What-to-replace-fence-pads-with) but as far as I can tell those high-bond UHMW strips that I used aren’t available in the thickness you would want to replace the glide pad that’s on the Xacta fence, at least. So the instructions about gluing UHMW to metal would become more important (McMaster sells thicker UHMW strips, just without adhesive). But I’d first make sure your pad is really worn and causing problems that wouldn’t be explained by something else.

Bruce

[George Bokros]

I have had a Biesemeier fence on my table saw for ~10 years and there is no marking from the pads. I believe cast iron is far harder than any plastic. I agree with Bruce that something else is causing the damage.

[Derek Arita]

Not quite sure I understand what's going on here. I know that with the addition of dust on the surface of the table and the dust containing a small amount of abrassives, anything that rubs the dust across the metal top will cause scratch marks. Just like if you run your finger over dust on your car's painted surface, you'll get scratches in the paint. I can't see that creating any kind of measurable wear on the table's surface though. Pics would be very helpful.

[Jim Becker]

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?282351-What-to-replace-fence-pads-with

[Brian Runau]

Picture of the wear. This is the right 1/3 of the top, and it is on the center section also. I have it apart doing some other work on the table. Thanks for any help.

Brian432132

[Mike Kees]

I replaced pads on a Biesmeyer last year with a UHMV cut from a block I have. I made them slightly thicker and drilled and tapped the fence to attach the pads with small machine screws with tapered heads countersunk in the UHMV. This has worked very well so far.

[Derek Arita]

If your concern is the wear, then I wouldn't be concerned at all, unless the scratches are really deep. From what I can see, those are just surface scratches that occur when dust and debris get between the pads and the table top. I have the same on my PM2000, with Biesmeyer fence. Now if those scratches are not the result of what I mentioned, then that's another thing.

[glenn bradley]

Both my Beisemeyer and my Beis close left marks on the cast iron. Cast iron is not as hard as one might think. It drills easily and will dent and crack. One saw I ran for over decade and the marks were never detectable by touch, just a visual thing. As to pads, the original Bies (from the way-back-machine) came with Formica pads. Samples from the BORG would work. UHMW material would work. I would be disinclined to mess with it unless the pad were gone. You could also go this route.

432139

[Derek Arita]

Great idea Glen! If I didn't have an outfield table up against that rail, I'd try that.

[Brian Runau]

If your concern is the wear, then I wouldn't be concerned at all, unless the scratches are really deep. From what I can see, those are just surface scratches that occur when dust and debris get between the pads and the table top. I have the same on my PM2000, with Biesmeyer fence. Now if those scratches are not the result of what I mentioned, then that's another thing.


I think you are right an appreciate the perspective. Thanks brian

[Lee Schierer]

My table has similar marks. I can see them but they can't be detected with a finger nail.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Older Kenmore washing machines (top loader, made by Whirlpool) use a couple nylon pads between the top and sides of the case. It has a couple of barbs made into it to hold it in place. Could probably be fitted to your Biesemeyer, by drilling a couple mounting holes, and then snapping into place..Whirlpool part # WP62750, about $5 each.

[John C Bush]

I have the same thing on my SS. Seems to be more burnishing/polishing than abany significant wear.

[Bob Jones 5443]

On my saw the wear is indeed from little bits of grit that got stuck onto the pads. I rub my pads with 0000 steel wool pads and then paste wax them. That cuts back on the scratching for a while.

[johnny means]

I've never seen a table saw that didn't develop significant wear in this area. I've also never seen it be an actual problem.

[Mitchell Garnett]

ditto for my PM2000. I happened on this thread looking for information on using UHMW for exactly the same purpose. Question: if the thin UHMW tape was put on the pad where the fence is rubbing and also where the fence rides on the rail, wouldn't this work? The fence would be very slightly higher off the table but I think I could adjust the pads on each side of the fence downward to compensate.


If your concern is the wear, then I wouldn't be concerned at all, unless the scratches are really deep. From what I can see, those are just surface scratches that occur when dust and debris get between the pads and the table top. I have the same on my PM2000, with Biesmeyer fence. Now if those scratches are not the result of what I mentioned, then that's another thing.

[Mitchell Garnett]

Answering my own question: I tried it and the adhesive didn't hold. I applied it after thoroughly cleaning the pads. A little bit of "duh" here to - I found the fence slides so much better after a very good cleaning. :rolleyes:

[Bill Dufour]

No pictures so i do not know if it applies but I have a seen ball bearing support for fences for sale that works with a unifence. It needs more then one so it spans the miter slots. My unifence came without one so I made one from a bolt and some trex decking scrap.
Bil lD.

I could not find a good picture but this video has okay views.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U5bcdvC1Jg

[Mitchell Garnett]

That looks interesting - I'll have to think about how I could modify it for the PM2000 fence. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.