Anti Kickback Devices

[Greg Daves]

After having witnessed severe kickback from a contractors saw, and now starting life out with a new Unisaw (stealth gloat), I was wondering if there was any merit to the use of anti kickback rollers. It appears that there are two types - the board buddies from Woodstock International and another set from Woodworkers Supply that very much resemble the rollers David Marks uses on Woodworks when he rips plywood.

I've gone a long way to get to the question, but does anyone use either of these items and are they worth it above and beyond a splitter with anti kickback prawels (or however you spell it). The board buddies claim they hold the stock down and against the fence when cutting and only roll in the direction of the feed. Seems like there may be some time to the set up of these things. I would appreciate any input/feedback anyone has on these items as I am looking to avoid every way possible of taking one of those flying missles in the head - and I know that the first lesson would be to move my head from directly behind the cut line ;-).

Thanks for the responses.
GD

[Lee Schierer]

The anti kick back device that you will actually use is the best one!My dad had a set of the nti kick back rollers and they were(1) always in teh way and (2) always in the wrong set up for the next cut! I didn't want them when we divided up his shop tools. I also have several feather boards, both home made and commercial. Mostly they collect dust!

I saw a pair of the magnetic feather boards by Grip tite demonstrated at a wood show. They set up in 1 second flat and can be moved in the same amount of time. They stick to the legs of my saw table so they are always handy. I use them all the time. I've never had a kick back when using them. My web site show my fence set up.

[Roger Myers]

When ripping long stock I use the board buddies (and a feather board) and really like them, but they can get in the way of push sticks if you are ripping narrow stock. I like the fact that they really help keep the stock tight to the fence throughout the cut...
I've not found any one solution that is best for all situations, but think these are worth the investment for the long rips alone...and, they are easy to remove from the track when not needed.
Lee is right....the only good safety devices are ones you will use!!

Roger

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Not trying to be a wise guy, but the best antikickback device ever is the band saw. I use it for rough ripping and then use the guard/splitter that came with my Shop Fox for the close stuff.

[Ed Falis]

I agree with Roger about needing multiple solutions. I have a Brett-Guard with splitter for most cuts, and use a pair of GRR-Rippers with the splitter for thin strips. The Brett-Guard can be used without the splitter for non-through cuts - it has builtin anti-kickback pawls.

- Ed

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I suppose I've been exceeedinly lucky over the years...the only kickback I've ever had was when I let go of a piece in the middle of a cut because a wasp flew in my face.

I don't use anything but a push stick. I'll add a featherboard if I need to hold molding tightly against the fence or hold something down for a long dado...but I look at the BBs and such and think they could only get in the way when you really need them. I've not seen what Lee talks about, but they have to be better than the BBs.

KC

[Derek Arita]

Unless the back of your fence is connected to the table, I don't understand how in the world the weight of the fence alone, is going to hold down stock if it wants to go. I've always thought the idea was good, but couldn't get past the fence thing. Does anyone have an answer?

[Jason Roehl]

I suppose I've been exceeedinly lucky over the years...the only kickback I've ever had was when I let go of a piece in the middle of a cut because a wasp flew in my face.

KC

Just curious, KC, but did the kickback get the wasp? I hate those things...got stung on the ear by one once--looked like Dumbo for a few hours.

[Lee Schierer]

Turns out Grip Tite has a web page. The link is :


Grip Tite (http://grip-tite.com/)

I have no affiliation with them other than as a completely satisfied customer. I also use the rollers that mount to the sides of the standard griptites for ripping. They are an option, but were part of the package deal I got at a wood show.

You can see the set up on my saw at my web site.

Lee's Woodworks (http://home.earthlink.net/~us71na/)

[Charles McKinley]

Lee have you used the griptites without the rollers?

Would add the rollers if you did not have them?

I bought one recently and like it and was wondering about adding the wheels.

Thank you.

[Art Johnson]

Agree with Lee on the Grip-Tites. I used a RAS for 30 years without a kickback until someone told me a RAS was dangerous. I then bought a TS and within a month had two kickbacks, one of which knocked me on my rump. Of course, I didn't know what I was doing so it was my fault so I decided to buy some safety equipment. Saw a demo on Grip-Tites at a show, bought them and never had a kickback since. I not only use them for my TS but I have a Veritas steel router table mounted on my saw so I use it for the router as well. I also use them on my band saw. Best little safety item I ever bought. Besides increasing safety greatly, I think they improve the quality of the cut. Nifty device, IMO :p.

Cheers

Art

[Bob Oswin]

[QUOTE=Lee Schierer]Turns out Grip Tite has a web page. The link is :


Grip Tite (http://grip-tite.com/)

I have no affiliation with them other than as a completely satisfied customer. I also use the rollers that mount to the sides of the standard griptites for ripping. They are an option, but were part of the package deal I got at a wood show.

Hi Lee:
These devices seem quite pricey.
Are they well constructed?
The kit gives you two magnetic attachments and a long piece of angled steel. It looks like the sheet metal is priced at about half of the kit price.
Is that right?
Is there anything else about it or could I bend up a piece of steel on my own and just buy the magnets?

Regards
Bob

[Jim Becker]

I have the Leichtung wheels from Woodworker's Supply (mounted on Jim Toplin's fence system idea) and find them useful for certain operations, especially when I am cutting down sheet goods or ripping ornery boards. But they are only one device I use in the shop as a hold-down/cut alignment jig...different situations demand different solutions.

BTW, I have no problem with the fence lifting that was questioned in another post. When my fence is locked down, I have to walk to the back of the saw and grab it at the very end to bring it off the table. The hold-downs don't budge it and even in the case of a severe kickback, it can only move so far.

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

I have the set from WoodWorkers Supply and use them a lot. I have a splitter in my blade insert and then use the hold downs for ripping. They hold the material down and against the fence. They have cogs which will only allow the wheels to turn in one direction thus helping to prevent kickback. I like them better than Board Buddies because you don't need the tracks and extra things. They just clamp onto the fence face. I removed the face from my fence and attached a taller one which makes it even easier to attach the hold downs.

[Chris Ambroson]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4#!
For those of us with slightly shorter or mis-shapen (ahem) fingers, this video may bring you flash backs. Don't worry, no blood or gore, just good old fashioned stupidity and extremely close calls.

[Rick Moyer]

Thanks for the video Chris. I have watched a number of his videos but this one I enjoyed the most, since he wasn't hurt. Very enlightening.

[Ray Newman]

Jim Becker: you mentioned “Leichtung” and the anti-kick back device. Had a set before they were damaged in a moved! Worked very well and were economical. Replaced them with a set of Board Buddies, which also work very well and are “easy on- easy off.”

Your mention of Leichtung brought back more than a few memories. Regularly received their catalogue in the mid 1980‘s. Bought more than a few things from them before they went out of business.

[Sam Layton]

Greg,

I am wondering why so many kick backs with your old saw??? A few things to avoid, and make sure of before you start buying other devices. First, make sure your saw is set up properly, fence alined to blade, etc. When ever you cut wood on the table saw, make sure it is flat, and one side straight. Cupped wood will kick back... In addition, always use a good splitter, and good push blocks. Explore your safety habits, and make sure you are using the correct safety habits.

I have a Powermatic 66. I have a good splitter, and always use it. I also have the Board Buddies. I use the Board Buddies when ever possible. For me, I really like them for cutting plywood. They keep the ply next to the fence. On narrow lumber, I sometime use only the rear one so it does not inter fear with my push stick. However, depending on what type of fence you have, the Board Buddies may lift up the back of the fence. To combat this, I lock the fence down in the back.

Sam