Recreating a Stanley #52 Shooting Board

[Steve Mathews]

As a follow up to my post regarding shooting planes, Derek Cohen brought to my attention the #52 shooting board once made by Stanley. That along with those currently made by others gave me the idea of making one made out of an aluminum plate for a base, an Incra 1000HD miter gauge for angle adjustment, an adjustable side bar and Turcite or UHMW runners. Does anyone have a Stanley #52 that could provide some dimensions for comparison?

[Tom M King]

The Incra gauge is a Great idea, worth copying.

[Steve Mathews]

The Incra gauge is a Great idea, worth copying.
I thought so too, the fine adjustment feature should be very beneficial. I'm also thinking of incorporating a sloped bed to take advantage of more of the blade width, which should extend blade sharpness. The Turcite bedding will help too. This should be a nice project.

[scott lipscomb]

Im tuning in as I have a Stanley 51 and an extra Incra 1000 miter gauge kicking around.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is a great option > https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/110737-veritas-shooting-board

jtk

[Joshua Lucas]

Jim beat me to it. And if you want a metal base you can buy the Veritas fence by itself: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/76880-veritas-shooting-board-fence.

[Jim Koepke]

Derek Cohen made a shooting board with a swinging fence.

For angled shooting my solution was to cut add on fences for the desired angle.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Jim Kingshott wrote about the Stanley #51/52 he built. It is in a book of his “Making and Modifying Woodworking Tools”. Now out of print.

Personally, if you cannot find a #52 to purchase (I have little idea of their availability or cost at this time), then I would either get the Veritas version, or build one around their fence. At the same time, if you just want a shooting board that works and holds its setting, build your own. With a skewed blade, you do not need a ramped board, just a flat one. This makes for a simple construction.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Mathews]

Jim Kingshott wrote about the Stanley #51/52 he built. It is in a book of his “Making and Modifying Woodworking Tools”. Now out of print.

Personally, if you cannot find a #52 to purchase (I have little idea of their availability or cost at this time), then I would either get the Veritas version, or build one around their fence. At the same time, if you just want a shooting board that works and holds its setting, build your own. With a skewed blade, you do not need a ramped board, just a flat one. This makes for a simple construction.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Coincidentally I ordered a copy of "Making and Modifying Woodworking Tools" recently and should receive it in a few days. Good to know there is some guidance in constructing a replica of the Stanley #52. As for the real deal there is one for sale on the familiar auction site at a price tag of $1200, a good reason for an alternative. The Veritas shooting board seems like a good bet but I think one could be made better. At the very least it would a fun project. One area of improvement I think would be in the fence. The Veritas fence seems adequate but the Incra 1000HD would provide finer adjustment. I believe Veritas offers the aluminum track and underlayment. I may purchase that as an alternative to my shop made track and Turcite covering. No doubt the ramped board would add complication but in Derek's review of dedicated shooting planes he mentions a wide variation in how long blades remain sharp. My thinking was why not spread the use over the more of the blade to extend its overall sharpness.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Steve, great idea. I already started to build one. ;) I had one of those miter gauges sitting around, and after looking at the LV version, I had the same thought. I'll use some baltic birch plywood as the base. I like your idea of runners from Turcite or UHMW. Mind if I steal it?

[Derek Cohen]

Ohh .. don't get too fussed about fine angles (unless you just want to do so for the fun of it :) ). I have never used anything other than 45- and 90 degrees.

There are plenty of times when you need to shoot off these angles by a smidgeon to get a perfect fit (and this is why one uses a shooting board and not just placing the edge in a vise!). You do not set the fence for this, but add a shin, since it is trial-and-error. Handy shins come in the form of a set of feeler gauges.

With regard the runway, stick to hardwood, and wax it (or a squiggle on the side of the plane). I do not like adding something to a surface which has been prepared to be flat and square. The chances are that it will not be after this.

I am planning on another shooting board, one for truing the side edges of drawer parts. Hopefully I get it done this weekend and, if so, will post pictures.

Regards from Perth

Derek