Stanley 50 alternative fence?

[Matthew Jaskula]

I just picked up a Stanley 50 combination plane on the auction site for plowing grooves. It’s my first plane of this type and it certainly has a learning curve.

Anyway it seems to me that it would benefit from a larger fence. It’s very tippy when ploughing narrow grooves with only one skate. Unfortunately Stanley didn’t drill any holes for an auxiliary fence as they did on other planes. Before I go and modify my new plane, I thought I’d see if the fence from some other plane might fit on it. I don’t know if the rods are a standard size and spacing to make this possible.

The rods on my 50 are 3” apart on center and 25/64” in diameter according to my calipers. Could someone with a larger collection of planes measure theirs and tell me if some other fence would fit?

Of course any other advice that prevents me from having to drill and tap this plane is also welcome.

Thanks!

[Stew Denton]

Matt,

I have been restoring an old Stanley 46 Combination Plane, and as such it is inside and close to my desk, so measuring it was a quick and easy thing due to quick access.

Unfortunately, the rods seem to be on 3&1/2" centers. I did not make any effort to do a careful measurement, because it was clear that the #46 fence would not work for your purpose.

If you don't get other answers by the end of the day, I will try to get measurements on an other plane or two, but they are not as handy to get at.

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Stanley made their combination/multi planes with different rod spacing. Some feel this was done so owners couldn't mix and match parts to get the benefits of one plane on another. Just imagine if the adjustable skate of the #55 could be used on the #45. It could have cut into sales.

There are a few fences listed on ebay, some at ridiculous prices. A second fence would allow you to drill some holes and add an extension.

Otherwise take some time to practice using the fence as it is.

One trick seen on the internet is to set a dowel, 5 or 6", into the depth stop holder. This will help to see when the plane is tipping. After a while the dowel can be removed.

jtk

[Matthew Jaskula]

Stanley made their combination/multi planes with different rod spacing. Some feel this was done so owners couldn't mix and match parts to get the benefits of one plane on another. Just imagine if the adjustable skate of the #55 could be used on the #45. It could have cut into sales.

There are a few fences listed on ebay, some at ridiculous prices. A second fence would allow you to drill some holes and add an extension.

Otherwise take some time to practice using the fence as it is.

One trick seen on the internet is to set a dowel, 5 or 6", into the depth stop holder. This will help to see when the plane is tipping. After a while the dowel can be removed.

jtk

Thanks for the quick turnaround Stew.

Jim, that sounds just like something that Stanley would do. Thanks for the info.

I’ll tryout that dowel trick. It sounds like it would help me.

[Jim Koepke]

I’ll tryout that dowel trick. It sounds like it would help me.

It is kind of like training wheels. You may want to put a small piece of scrap on the top of the dowel to keep from poking yourself.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Wondering IF the cam rest from the 45 would be of help.....allow one of the long rods to stick through to the right side of the plane, and add the rest....could even swing it all the way "down" to rub either on the work, or alongside the work....

i use the cam rest on my 45...when there is a lot of space between the fence and the cutter....skate works with the cam rest to keep the plane from tipping.

[justin sherriff]

Wondering IF the cam rest from the 45 would be of help.....allow one of the long rods to stick through to the right side of the plane, and add the rest....could even swing it all the way "down" to rub either on the work, or alongside the work....

i use the cam rest on my 45...when there is a lot of space between the fence and the cutter....skate works with the cam rest to keep the plane from tipping.
on my 50 the rods just screw in and do not come out the other side. Not shere if all the 50s are like that.

[Derek Cohen]

Matthew, it is not like the #50 is so precious that future historians and museums will curse your name, and you will suffer from a smelly foot fungus for the rest if your life.

Just drill the existing fence and add a subfence. That is the quickest and best modification you can do.

Regards from Perth

Deek

[Stew Denton]

Matt,

The spacing of the rods on my Stanley 45 is 3&7/8." The spacing of the rods on my Stanley 55 is 4&1/2."

Again, not measured with extreme care as with a caliper, just by eye with a combination square, and not in very good light.

Thus, no luck on the spacing on any of my Stanley combination planes.

Stew

[Matthew Jaskula]

Matt,

The spacing of the rods on my Stanley 45 is 3&7/8." The spacing of the rods on my Stanley 55 is 4&1/2."

Again, not measured with extreme care as with a caliper, just by eye with a combination square, and not in very good light.

Thus, no luck on the spacing on any of my Stanley combination planes.

Stew

Thanks for digging in Stew. It appears Stanley wants me to buy all of these planes. I’m going to resist for now.

[Matthew Jaskula]

on my 50 the rods just screw in and do not come out the other side. Not shere if all the 50s are like that.

Yeah, same here.

[Matthew Jaskula]

Matthew, it is not like the #50 is so precious that future historians and museums will curse your name, and you will suffer from a smelly foot fungus for the rest if your life.

Just drill the existing fence and add a subfence. That is the quickest and best modification you can do.

Regards from Perth

Deek

I’m more worried that I’m going to mess up my new plane before I get a chance to use it. I tossed off the fact that the fence could be drilled and tapped rather casually, but I’ve never actually done it.

[John Gornall]

Try a piece of 1/2" plywood drilled square and slipped onto the rods inside the fence sized to hang an inch or 2 below the fence.

[John Gornall]

The fence from a Record 50 will fit a Stanley 50 and is all ready drilled

Or get a Record 50 which some see as a better plane

[Richard Line]

Just drill the 50's fence, no need to tap it. Fasten a wood fence extension on with screws (small ones). I did this with my 78 rabbet plane and glad I did. That is the way the fence extension is fastened on my 45.

[Derek Cohen]

I’m more worried that I’m going to mess up my new plane before I get a chance to use it. I tossed off the fact that the fence could be drilled and tapped rather casually, but I’ve never actually done it.

Matthew, I very much doubt that you will screw up if you mark carefully and always first drill a pilot hole. Drilling cast iron is like drilling wood. You do not need to tap a thread, just drill a hole in the cast iron. The screw goes through it into the wooden sub-fence.

This is the positioning on a Veritas Small Plow ...

https://i.postimg.cc/bN1H92Hz/Small-Plow.jpg

I added sub-fences to all planes, even these Records ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Small%20Plow%20Plane_html_m31417cd 0.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

I’m more worried that I’m going to mess up my new plane before I get a chance to use it. I tossed off the fact that the fence could be drilled and tapped rather casually, but I’ve never actually done it.

Matthew, Do your have access tp a drill press and a drill press vise?

It is easy to see why someone wouldn't want to try drilling on a plane's fence without these.

Your location isn't listed in your profile. You may have members living close to you who do have the necessary equipment and experience to help you with this.

Another option might be to devise a way to make a small clamping set up to hold a piece of wood to the fence.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

Current versions of double sided tape are tenacious.

It could even be applied with Super Glue and accelerant. I modified a couple LN edge planes to cut on an 6° angle this way.

Remember to wax the subfence so it glides.

[steven c newman]

Sometimes, one can add the extra "fence" to the stock being worked on....and the batten can be beveled to the angle one needs to make...and then allow the planes regular fence to ride/follow the batten. Just simply clamp the batten in place, and make the cut...