drill kickback direction

[Bill Dufour]

I am going to be drilling a 6" hole in my cabinet saw for dust collection. For the life of me I can not remember which way the drill motor will spin if the bit gets locked up. I am thinking it will also try to spin clockwise?
I did find out that Bosch has or maybe will have not really clear a drill with a acerometer onboard. If the drill motor body starts to move too fast it shuts off power. Hopefully this will prevent broken hands etc.
Bill D.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ighvE8d9LEA

A link to Buster Keaton's last movie, a canadian safety movie

https://www.citylab.com/design/2015/05/workplace-safety-as-demonstrated-by-buster-keaton/394466/ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ighvE8d9LEA)

Not to be confused with Harlod Lloyds movie "Safety Last" which has little to do with shop safety

http://publicdomainmovie.net/movie/safety-last

[Andrew Nemeth]

Bill, I think the drill body would spin in the opposite direction from the direction the bit was traveling before it locked up (for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction).

Incidentally, I cut a 4” hole on my cabinet saw many years ago. If I remember correctly, I gave up on trying to drill a hole that big and ended up cutting it out with my jigsaw and cleaning it up with an angle grinder. If I were to do it again, I might do the whole thing with an angle grinder. I’m sure with the right tooling and drill, it would be no problem. I just remember being surprised by how thick the metal cabinet really was.

[Brian Holcombe]

I believe a nibbler is a good tool for doing this chore. Hard to keep a saw centered over an existing hole without some kind of template.

[Tom M King]

I'm hearing this as though you are going to be drilling with a hole saw. If you were closer, I'd loan you this 3/4" drill. You can put as long of a spade handle in it as you want, with 3/4" pipe. It only turns 250 rpm. With a long spade handle in it, and a big guy on the other end, it will stop dead when it locks up. Anything less scares me.

Better yet would be a magnetic drill press. I could loan you one of those too, but you'd have to back it up inside the cabinet with some 3/4" thick steel plate.

That little drill in the picture with it is a 1/2" right angle drill-normally considered a Bad Ass. That one can wind you up if you let it lock up.

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2018_02/5a945d4b7a7ae_CIMG2368(1280x960).jpg.b765b001b0163 e9e5a2b6d230c69f1fb.jpg

[Tom M King]

Here's the chuck key for that drill. Hand size Large. It fits the magnetic drill press too.

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2018_03/CIMG2376.JPG.ecf7d4410a1e075b65353a48dcdd6f8a.JPG

[Bill Dufour]

That right angle drill looks pretty much like the 1/2 millwaukee I will be using it is 500 rpm. the right angle drive takes it down to 250rpm. Plan is to brace it to the ground or side of the cabinet.
Bil lD

[Frank Pratt]

I used a 4" hydraulic knockout cutter. no drama & a very nice hole.

[Bill Dufour]

This is a cabinet saw base so about 1/8" thick metal. It is not going to yield to a punch or nibbler.
Bill D

[David Buchhauser]

I am going to be drilling a 6" hole in my cabinet saw for dust collection. For the life of me I can not remember which way the drill motor will spin if the bit gets locked up. I am thinking it will also try to spin clockwise?


Assuming you have your 6" hole saw installed into a drill which turns clockwise while drilling (as viewed from above) then if the hole saw binds in the hole the drill will react by twisting in a counter clockwise direction (as viewed from above).

I personally wouldn't attempt to use a 6" hole saw for this operation. I would opt for a variable speed electric reciprocating saw ("jig saw" or Sawzall) equipped with a fine narrow fine-tooth blade (24tpi or finer). Drill an entry hole (large enough for the saw blade to fit thru) just inside the circumference of the intended hole. Use a slow speed (that is - set the variable speed saw to the slowest setting) and follow your line around the circle. Feed slowly and take your time. Clean up with a file, drum sander (mounted in a drill), or sand paper as required.

David

430425 430426 430427 430428

[Mike Kreinhop]

I have a lot of experience drilling large holes in raised flooring, equipment racks, and GSA security containers. If the hole saw binds in the material, the drill motor will spin in the opposite direction. Larger corded drills have sufficient torque and will not stop until the trigger is released or the cord is pulled from the wall outlet.

I recommend holding the drill in a way that allows it to be pulled out of your hands in case the hole saw binds in the cabinet. This will ensure the trigger is released. Unfortunately, I have seen people drilling large holes with no escape plan when the hole saw became bound in the material, and at least two suffered injuries.

[Jim Becker]

I believe a nibbler is a good tool for doing this chore. Hard to keep a saw centered over an existing hole without some kind of template.

This was also my first thought. I wouldn't use a big hole saw for this kind of application. It's not only hard on the drill/driver, but it can twerk your wrist(s) really badly if it catches.

[Ole Anderson]

Don't try to engage all of the saw's teeth at the same time. Start the pilot hole, then tilt the hole saw just a bit to start the hole on one side. But, yes, there are better tools for the job, specifically a nibbler or fine tooth jig saw.

[Rod Sheridan]

This is a cabinet saw base so about 1/8" thick metal. It is not going to yield to a punch or nibbler.
Bill D

Bill, I regularly use knockout punches for 4 inch conduit in 1/8" mild steel. They're rated for 10 gauge which is thicker than 1/8"......Regards, Rod.

[David Buchhauser]

This was also my first thought. I wouldn't use a big hole saw for this kind of application. It's not only hard on the drill/driver, but it can twerk your wrist(s) really badly if it catches.


My sheet metal nibblers are not rated for anything much more than 16 ga. steel. If you have one that will do 1/8" steel, then that will work. I have used a Sawzall for many holes such as this one with great success. The key is to use a slow saw speed and move slowly and deliberately to follow the line.
David

[Brian Holcombe]

Some are made to cut as heavy as 10ga, which is thicker than 1/8”

https://www.cpooutlets.com/makita-jn3201-6.2-amp-10-gauge-nibbler-kit/mktnjn3201.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=mktnjn3201&gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmO0h1BSgLsUJEPQSTLpr TFa33Ok1O83bJuy5sH9bxygriuylbAFzXBoC-CEQAvD_BwE

[Jim Andrew]

Program your phone to 911 before you start drilling this hole. I would use a jig saw or sawzall, or angle grinder with those thin cutoff wheels you can get at Harbor freight. Wear your goggles with these tools.

[Tom M King]

A die grinder can make quick work of cleaning up a wobbly cut left by some other tool, if you use a carbide burr. From experience, get one with a paddle switch, and variable speed. Don't be tempted to get the cheap, electric HF one with a single speed, and locking switch-been there-tossed it.

Also, don't buy the cheap sets of burrs off of Amazon. They cut fine for a little while, but the shafts bend too easily, and then the whole tool becomes a wobbling, spinning projectile if the switch is locked-see part about tossing the HF tool. The burrs sold on Ebay individually, for about 12 bucks are pretty nice. One of those would do the whole 6" hole cleanup, and still have life left.

[David Buchhauser]

Some are made to cut as heavy as 10ga, which is thicker than 1/8”

https://www.cpooutlets.com/makita-jn3201-6.2-amp-10-gauge-nibbler-kit/mktnjn3201.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=mktnjn3201&gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmO0h1BSgLsUJEPQSTLpr TFa33Ok1O83bJuy5sH9bxygriuylbAFzXBoC-CEQAvD_BwE




That's a good looking nibbler. Don't know if the OP wants to spend that much for a tool to cut his hole, but maybe he can rent one from his local tool rent center. Maybe he could also rent one of those large hydraulic knock-out punches as was suggested earlier. I figured that if he was on a budget and already had a variable speed jig saw, all he would need to buy was a metal cutting saw blade from Home Depot.
David

[mreza Salav]

Strong corded drills can cause serious injury (break the wrist) if the large big get stuck, due the large torque they have.
As others have suggested, either use other methods, or don't engage the whole hole saw, or try to restrain the drill from rotating other than holding it by your hand.

[Ole Anderson]

Strong corded drills can cause serious injury (break the wrist) if the large big get stuck, due the large torque they have.
As others have suggested, either use other methods, or don't engage the whole hole saw, or try to restrain the drill from rotating other than holding it by your hand.

At a minimum you need a drill with a side handle and something to restrain that handle when the bit catches, much like you need to do with a drill press.

[David Buchhauser]

At a minimum you need a drill with a side handle and something to restrain that handle when the bit catches, much like you need to do with a drill press.


You mean something like this?

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2018_02/5a945d4b7a7ae_CIMG2368(1280x960).jpg.b765b001b0163 e9e5a2b6d230c69f1fb.jpg

[Mike Kees]

I made my hole in my Delta Unisaw base with a five inch holesaw in my Milwaukee M 18 drill. It worked fine ,just go slow.

[Bill Dufour]

Program your phone to 911 before you start drilling this hole. I would use a jig saw or sawzall, or angle grinder with those thin cutoff wheels you can get at Harbor freight. Wear your goggles with these tools.


I have heard that you should program in the local emergency number so you get the local dispatcher not the one at the state capital hundreds of miles away.
Bil lD

[David Buchhauser]

I have heard that you should program in the local emergency number so you get the local dispatcher not the one at the state capital hundreds of miles away.
Bil lD


Maybe you better have a helper to man the phone for you while you're drilling, just in case the drill kicks back really hard and breaks your wrist. Then he (or she) can phone 911 for you (and probably drive you to the hospital).

[Bill Dufour]

OP: Update FYI. After I figured out which way to brace the drill it went okay until it jammed and the pilot drill bent. It was about 1/2 done at that point. I replaced the drill with a mild steel rod which bent at about 2/3 done. Took it out and straightened it on the anvil and finished the job. I did know to walk it around at an angle so it was not biting all around the circumference at the same time. I wore welding gloves and carefully planned how to hold and release the drill if needed. It was needed.
Bill D.
PS: Years ago I bought a holehawg to drill the shop studs for wires. I returned it the next day. it was just too heavy and too much torque. I am 6'2" and over 250 pounds so it was too big a tool for me. My little Makita angle drill is easier to use for 3/4" and smaller holes.

[Tom M King]

The reason I bought the magnetic drill press was that we bent, and broke some 7/8" twist bits with that big, 3/4" spade handled drill.

Glad you got the job done!