Wood Finishing Question WB Dye / Danish Oil

[Nick Costa]

Hello all, I have an odd question, and have been searching all over but haven't really found an answer as to how exactly the following its going to blow up in my face....I am testing out some General Finishes Waterbased Dye Stain on some Poplar scraps to see if I can get a non-blotchy color that I like.


Originally I tried some Dark Walnut Watco Danish oil, but it was a little bit blotchy / not as dark as I wanted it. I wiped on a light coat, and wiped it off fairly quickly. I will probably try again, because I believe I was supposed to let it sit longer.


The next day (about 24hours later) I got a can of GF Water Based Dye Stain (Dark Brown). I did a section of the poplar just the dye stain, and another section over some Dewaxed Shellac following the instructions to dilute, wait 15min, scuff and then use the Dye/Stain.


Since I was on the same board that I originally used, I also wiped the Dye Stain over the Watco Danish oil, just to see what would happen.


I let the dye dry for 2.5 hours, and then I coated parts of it a 2nd time to see what it would look like darker.


I haven't let it all dry fully yet (will be checking it tomorrow) but so of right now, I actually really like the Watco Danish oil with the Dye stain over it.


My Question is, I don't think I am supposed to put a Water Based Dye stain over Oil/Vanish Watco... So far it doesnt seem to be an issue but its still early. What is the problem actually going to be? Will it just never dry? At this point it SEEMS like the light coat of Watco acted as a partial stain/sealer, and is giving me a nice color/shade that I really like.


Can anyone tell me how doing a light coat of Danish oil first (letting it dry), then hitting it with the water based dye is going to blow up in my face?

[Jim Becker]

You can use products in combination like that with no issues...the dye will "dry" as the water evaporates. What counts the most if that you get the color you want. If you are going to be brushing on a clear coat over it, however, you'll want to consider using some spray-bomb wax-free shellac to seal the dye before going to your top coat. If you're spraying your top coat, there's less of an issue, but if it's a water borne, sealing with a barrier coat of wax-free shellac is a good idea for good adhesion over what is essentially an oil based product unless it's been curing for a very long time.

[Nick Costa]

Jim,

Thanks for the advice, I was planning on sealing with some Zinsser Dewaxed Shellac that I had, and then probably hitting it with some Deft Satin Lacquer out of a rattle can. If I am spraying the lacquer do you think I should (or could) skip the Shellac since the spray isnt waterborne?

[Jim Becker]

You don't need the wax free shellac if you're going to spray the Deft lacquer. (outdoors preferably so you don't kill yourself with it. :) ). Make sure you mist it on for.a few very light coats to avoid any issues with the underlying oil based product, however.

[Ron Selzer]

Watco Danish oil recommends letting it dry for I believe 72 hours before putting anything over it. I like mixing 1 qt Waco Danish Oil Black Walnut to 1 gallon of Waco Danish Oil Dark Walnut for use on popular. I keep it wet for about 15 min then wipe it off and let dry for 72 hours. Be careful what it is laying on if you apply to all sides, if you use wood to support it you end up with a "sticker mark ".
Good luck
Ron

edit to add: Have a tall chest of drawers in bedroom, head board for bed that was made of 30 yr old 5/4 popular. Finished with Watco Danish oil as above and then had 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic applied. So far it is holding up good. Done 2 years ago.