Thoughts on exterior man door to shop

[Lud martinson]

using big box store KD framing materials.
This will be to and from my alleyway and protected somewhat by a three ft dutch roof. Budget constraints force the original plan. Obviously will seal all surfaces prior to the install.
I could go cheaper with a steel/ wood jamb unit but truthfully look forward to mortise and tenon construction.

[Jamie Buxton]

Most of our projects are a balance among functionality, budget, construction time, fun, and the like. For a door from a shop to an alley, I'd go with sturdy, quick, and inexpensive. That would likely get me a prehung door from a big box store. I'd probably choose steel-faced for durability. No mortise-and-tenons!

[Lud martinson]

No mortise-and-tenons!

Yep, thought that as well. Thanks, I guess

[Jim Becker]

Pre-hung steel (or fiberglass) insulated with or without light panel(s) depending on your preference and style. And don't make it a narrow door. While it's a "man" door, I assure you that it will get used beyond just "man" traffic.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Pre-hung steel (or fiberglass) insulated with or without light panel(s) depending on your preference and style. And don't make it a narrow door. While it's a "man" door, I assure you that it will get used beyond just "man" traffic.Convert it to out swing. Saves a lot of floor space, as nothing is "behind the door." Order NRP hinges and a keyed on both sides dead bolt.

[Bill Dufour]

On my shop door I installed full length geared outswing hinges like the schools use here. Since it opens outward good luck kicking it in against nice solid door stops screwed to the framing. For the latch I put a piece of 2"? angle iron about 18" long into the frame. Drilled two holes for the lock bolts. Buried flush into the framing and covered by trim only noticeable with door opened. This angle iron is screwed with long heavy flushhead screws into the framing. At least 3" long screws so it attaches to both king and jack studs.
Bil lD

[Jim Becker]

Convert it to out swing. Saves a lot of floor space, as nothing is "behind the door." Order NRP hinges and a keyed on both sides dead bolt.
My double doors are that way...I did that for the reason you mention. When they are open, there's zero footprint impact inside the shop. My man-door preexisted and is normal in-swing.

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[Robert Engel]

+1 on prehung steel

+1 on swing out

[Bill Dufour]

If you get snow swing out may not work. Other then that swing out is the way to go. If your snow is measured in inches it should not be a problem.
I know the OP is in Santa Rosa so he has no show worries unless his shop is 100 miles east of his house.
Bil lD.

[Lud martinson]

Thanks gents, yes on outswing and yes on steel clad. I have all the hardware from a previous school project that I somehow inherited including the hd hinges...somewhere close by:eek:. My original bid was for installing all the cabinetry. After that the contractor asked me if I was interested in installing some doors, three hundred or so later... I had a closet full of "stuff". Years have passed by and I still have several five gallon buckets full.
So One of my future projects will be upgrading my two car garage door with four craftsman style panels. Never attempted something like that so my thought was to practice up on m& t joinery on what will be utilitarian at best from shop to alleyway.
Paint covers most sins, but I agree, go get the prehung and be done with it. Thanks again.

[Bob Riefer]

If you swing out, be aware of what a gust of wind can do to a door. Back in my construction sales days I saw two man doors ripped right off the hinges and thrown across the yard.