Make a molding..

[steven c newman]

Just a few cutter changes are needed..
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To go from this, to..
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This..Step one..
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I cut a bead, next
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Change to a cove bit in the Stanley 45...next
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Switch to a straight cutter, and make a rebate, next..
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Figure out the line to rip to...
Finally, install the molding....
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Sand/scrape to finish up
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Call it good. Rebate can be done with a Stanley #78. I made the cove cutter by regrinding a 3/4" wide cutter to shape.
Be sure to make long enough "sticks" to allow for the corners.

[Axel de Pugey]

Thank you Steven, it is always interesting to see the different steps involved.

What is the reason for the rebate? Wouldn't it be stronger to have the moulding and the box bottom resting at the same level?

[steven c newman]

Rebate for the box to sit on, as I sometimes cut curved spaces along the bottom to make smaller "feet".

[carey mitchell]

Nice work.

I picked up a Stanley 45 not long ago, and quickly learned several things:

1. It works
2. It ain't as easy as it looks
3. Folks who use these are tough

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks, Steven. Good to see that pile of cutters used. Some might be saying "those things really work?". Many have
enjoyed owning those ...few have used them!

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks, Steven. Good to see that pile of cutters used. Some might be saying "those things really work?". Many have
enjoyed owning those ...few have used them!

Some see the Stanley #45 as training wheels for moving up to the Stanley #55.

Making molding can be fun > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?225903

An old trick comes in handy when attaching molding > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?232798

A little detail or shape can add interest well worth the added effort.

jtk

[Tony Zaffuto]

Nice work.

I picked up a Stanley 45 not long ago, and quickly learned several things:

1. It works
2. It ain't as easy as it looks
3. Folks who use these are tough

You omitted #4! It's loads of fun!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

That is very cool. I enjoy seeing how this is done.

[steven c newman]

Hardest part, is marking out what you need for a molding, then "break it down" into a series of steps....as to which cutter to use..and which to use first....

[Stew Denton]

Steven,

I was thinking the #45 only came with cutters for cutting grooves, dados, rabbets, beads, and flutes. Am I wrong on this, or did you figure out a way to get it to cut the cove with an existing iron or figure something else out?

My 45 only has the dado/rabbet/groove irons, a sash cutter, a tongue iron for tongue and groove work, a splitter, and beading irons I think. I would have to go out in the garage and look to know for sure, but that is what I am thinking. I am not sure if I could convince it to cut a cove.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[steven c newman]

There was a 3/4" bead cutter (WOW) that got reground into a cove, of sorts....since you only need half of the cutter.....have since used it as a full width cutter.

Set the skates to support as much of the cutter as you can. Take as shallow a cut as you can to start with...then advance the cutter as needed..

[Axel de Pugey]

Sorry if this is sounds naive but I always wondered, to do the initial marking on the end grain, do you just take the iron out and draw a line arount it?
If you are planing to use several irons next to each other it must be tricky to draw accurately.

[steven c newman]

Draw the "pattern" out on paper first...Using the cutters that you think will match the molding you want to make.

That re-ground "Cove" cutter looks just like someone had turned it into a "Cambered" iron. I used the right hand part of that cove cutter.

If you all want, I can post a picture of that cutter...
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Grooves for Auger bits to rest in...
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Black circle is called the Cam Rest, used when the distance between the fence (yellow circle) and the plane is a bit too wide, prevents the plane from tipping over to the side.
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All set up, and ready to get "groovy", man....:D

[Thomas Wilson]

I wish the Veritas Combination Plane had coves and beads. I have considered grinding some but then I look at router table and pick up the ear muffs.

[steven c newman]

The only reason I need ear muffs, is if they can also play music, or...deafen all the cussing in the shop......:rolleyes:

[Jim Koepke]

Sorry if this is sounds naive but I always wondered, to do the initial marking on the end grain, do you just take the iron out and draw a line arount it?
If you are planing to use several irons next to each other it must be tricky to draw accurately.

It depends on what one has on hand. For simple moldings it is easy to lay it out in one's mind. For more involved moldings it helps to have a few helpers. Various radius guides come in handy:

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One has to consider what planes are on hand to be used in designing a molding cut.

Sometimes it is just serendipity:

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This was just having fun one afternoon. The profiles were cut using a pair of Stanley #45 planes. One with a beading blade and the other with a fluting blade. They were cut on the edge of 1X fir using various positions of the bead & cove element, then the molding was ripped from the board.

Once one starts making molding, it is easy to save a piece of scrap molding to use for layout in the future or one can also make a template to lay out any molding used regularly.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

I wish the Veritas Combination Plane had coves and beads. I have considered grinding some but then I look at router table and pick up the ear muffs.

There are fluting blades available > https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/75625-fluting-blades-for-veritas-combination-plane

These can be used to cut a cove.

There are also beading blades > https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/75787-beading-blades-for-veritas-small-plow-plane-or-combination-plane

It seems there is a current glitch on the site.

They also have reeding blades > https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/75626-reeding-blades-for-veritas-combination-plane

For making more than one bead at a time.

The blades for the Stanley #45 can also be made to work in the Veritas Combination Plane.

jtk

[Stew Denton]

Steven,

Thanks for explaining how you convinced the Stanley 45 to make the cove. Good post.

Jim,

Thanks for the links. I had forgotten about the one on blind nailing. I saw that I commented on it back then, but now I remember seeing one of the blind nailers back in a tool catalog, I think. It may have not been there, could have been someplace else, but I believe I saw one in a tool catalog back in the 1970s or 80s.

Both of you,

Thanks for the tutorials. Much appreciated. I'm looking forward to the time when I have time and place to do some of the same things. Right now i am restoring, sharpening, and figuring storage for tools. Mostly though, I go to work and when home from work do carpentry on the place. Last two jobs were rebuilding over 200 feet of old cedar fence by salvaging pickets from fences folks have torn down and then rebuilding our deck. I have about 70 feet more of a different type of fence to rebuild, but hopefully it won't be as time consuming.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

I remember seeing one of the blind nailers back in a tool catalog, I think. It may have not been there, could have been someplace else, but I believe I saw one in a tool catalog back in the 1970s or 80s.

Lee Valley had one in their catalog until a few years ago.

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There is one in a drawer in my shop.

jtk