Entry door hardware

[Joe Hendershott]

I will be beginning a double entry door project very soon and while there is a lot of great info on the door construction itself I have not been able to find much about the hardware. I will build it on a stave core and will use mahogany.

I would like to ask the door builders here about specific products (brands, sources) you use. What method do you use to secure the more stationary door? I see some discussion on another forum about double Euro type hardware but not sure I need it as much. We have several sliders and other potential entry points that a would be intruder might find easier to use than an entry door but would, of course, like some adequate way of securing the door.

I also want to get advice on the threshold to use. The doors we have now are not the best quality (metal doors from HD) but the thresholds seem fine. Is there a big difference in these?

Finally, what about hinges. What's your preference? I have some stainless ones on a gate build from Hillman Hardware and they are fine but would like to see what high quality hinges you all prefer.

[mreza Salav]

I built a large entry door unit for our new house a few years ago. As it was was my first time I did extensive research and have documented the build here too (stave core using Honduras Mahogany, 2.25" thick, 42"x96", plus side lights of 16" wide each). I used 4 5" hinges. As for threshold I bought one and modified it to fit my build. All your questions are answered in the following threads.
The first few threads you find my questions along with some good answers.
After 6 years it's hold up great in our harsh climate.
The last thread is the build.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?203118-Building-an-entry-door-(many-questions)&highlight=
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?216878-Question-about-door-jambs&highlight=
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?207022-Building-an-entry-door-(work-in-progress-)&highlight=

428689

[Tom M King]

I always use ball bearing hinges on entry doors.

[Lee Schierer]

The weak point on most entry doors is the door jamb. They are generally 3/4" material with a sizable hole or two drilled near the inside edge.

[Joe Hendershott]

Thanks for the links, I will read thru them.

[Joe Hendershott]

So skimming thru those posts I see a lot of good info already, but nothing I saw about double entry doors and hardware to secure them.

Anyone here make a double entry door?

[Tom M King]

It's been a long time since I made a double entry door. I used Baldwin hardware then, and I think Stanley ball bearing hinges. That was decades ago though.

[lowell holmes]

See this site,

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AwrE19mssXperZ0AaApXNyoA;_ylc=X1MDMjc2 NjY3OQRfcgMyBGZyA21jYWZlZQRmcjIDc2ItdG9wBGdwcmlkA0 1naWxDdFlKUVlxRzJQVjROLll1bEEEbl9yc2x0AzAEbl9zdWdn AzEwBG9yaWdpbgNzZWFyY2gueWFob28uY29tBHBvcwMwBHBxc3 RyAwRwcXN0cmwDMARxc3RybAMxOQRxdWVyeQNlbnRyeSUyMGRv b3IlMjBoYXJkd2FyZQR0X3N0bXADMTU4NTA5OTIxMQ--?p=entry+door+hardware&fr2=sb-top&fr=mcafee&type=E211US739G0

or

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AwrgDunisnpe8MsAtidXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEz ZjV0dmJmBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjk3NjZfMQRzZW MDcmVs?p=entry+door+hardware+sets&type=E211US739G0&ei=UTF-8&fr2=rs-top&fr=mcafee

[Richard Coers]

I've only made one. You'll need an astragal on the semi fixed door so you can use a good bulb seal and make it air tight. I used two flush mount bolts since the single door was plenty wide for traffic. I think you can get an automatic one that releases both bolts when the main door opens. I used a white oak custom threshold, with internal automatic door sweeps on the doors.

[Bill Dufour]

Regardless of maker with today's concerns it should be bare copper or brass handles with no finish on the exposed metal.
Bil lD

[William Hodge]

Joe, You didn't say what style of hardware you want.
Check out House of Antique Hardware.
https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/antique-door-hardware

[Joe Hendershott]

I've only made one. You'll need an astragal on the semi fixed door so you can use a good bulb seal and make it air tight. I used two flush mount bolts since the single door was plenty wide for traffic. I think you can get an automatic one that releases both bolts when the main door opens. I used a white oak custom threshold, with internal automatic door sweeps on the doors.

Thank you, that's what I was looking for. Ours is plenty wide as well and the semi-fixed door would rarely need to open.

[Joe Hendershott]

See this site,

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AwrE19mssXperZ0AaApXNyoA;_ylc=X1MDMjc2 NjY3OQRfcgMyBGZyA21jYWZlZQRmcjIDc2ItdG9wBGdwcmlkA0 1naWxDdFlKUVlxRzJQVjROLll1bEEEbl9yc2x0AzAEbl9zdWdn AzEwBG9yaWdpbgNzZWFyY2gueWFob28uY29tBHBvcwMwBHBxc3 RyAwRwcXN0cmwDMARxc3RybAMxOQRxdWVyeQNlbnRyeSUyMGRv b3IlMjBoYXJkd2FyZQR0X3N0bXADMTU4NTA5OTIxMQ--?p=entry+door+hardware&fr2=sb-top&fr=mcafee&type=E211US739G0

or

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AwrgDunisnpe8MsAtidXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEz ZjV0dmJmBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjk3NjZfMQRzZW MDcmVs?p=entry+door+hardware+sets&type=E211US739G0&ei=UTF-8&fr2=rs-top&fr=mcafee

Thank you, very helpful and the reason I asked only for what experienced builders used.

[Joe Hendershott]

Joe, You didn't say what style of hardware you want.
Check out House of Antique Hardware.
https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/antique-door-hardware

Yes, sorry. Nickel satin finish and as unobtrusive as possible.

[Larry Edgerton]

Every time I replace a commercial double with a new door I steal the passive door locking hardware before I chuck it. It is relitively easy to machine a new door to accept the hardware from a modern three point locking system, slightly out of character if you are going for OLD, but can only be seen when the door is open. The hardware is usually in good shape. If I need period specific stuff I go to the website previously posted, they are good to deal with.

I use roller bearing hinges as well, never a specific brand and have never had issues with hinges. 6'8" door I do 3 4 1/2" hinges, up to 8'0" I use four, and over that I will go to 5 hinges. Like I said, never had good hinges fail, and the increase in hinges is more to keep the door in check than me worrying about hinge failure. Heaviest door was a 3' thick built up door in 7' height, weighed over 300 pounds, was 42" wide and I used 4 hinges. Door is in a popular bar/restaurant and has 28 years of opening and closing on the original hinges, 4 1/2' needle bearing hinges.

I get my doors seals from environmental engineering. Sometimes I buy new aluminum sills in black if conditions are going to be wet. Yes it is not period correct, but they do not rot and in black are unobtrusive. I have had them made from stone as well when setting a door in a masonry structure.

Have fun with it. One word of caution. Make sure your glueup surface is flat and HAS NO TWIST.

[Bruce Lowekamp]

I refinished my door and replaced all the hardware 3 years ago. Went with a Kwikset lockset from build.com. That's not what I would generally think of first, but honestly it's solid brass and no signs of wear on the finish after 3 years. Nice thing about the big brands (including Schlage and others) is that they sell the exterior and interior pieces separately so you can have different styles/finishes. (Like you I prefer brushed nickel, but I'm not about to replace the bright brass chandelier hanging in the foyer just because I would pick a different finish.)

Bruce

[Kevin Jenness]

I have been involved in a number of exterior door projects but am no specialist and have not chosen most of the hardware, so take my comments with a grain of salt. With any luck Joe Calhoon will chime in here and his advice is based on a wealth of experience.

For a traditional look, there is a wide range of hardware available and a wide range of cost. Deltana has a decent line of ball bearing hinges at a fair price.The simplest, strongest latching/locking system is a passage set (locking turnbutton or not) plus a separate deadbolt. Omnia is one maker that I have seen quite a bit. More elaborate is a mortise lock with integrated latching/deadbolt. Baldwin is one brand I have used. The internals and finish hardware are often from different manufacturers, just be sure they are compatible. You will need bolts to secure the fixed leaf whether surface mounted or concealed in the meeting edge.

For all types, especially mortise locks, ordering the correct orientation is critical so it is helpful to have a person at your vendor that can guide you. Be sure to review specs carefully before confirming your order.

Multi point hardware is a good choice, especially if the fixed leaf is used often. It will ensure that the leaves stay in plane. Hoppe is the brand I am most familiar with. I believe there is less design variety available in the manufacturers' finish hardware, but there may be more options from third parties. Again, careful specing is important. For a contemporary design the concealed hinges made by Tectus can't be beat. They allow for easy 3d adjustment after the door is hung. $$$.

Proper air sealing is critical. As Richard Coers pointed out you will need an astragal with a seal and quality seals all around the perimeter. I like the silicone rubber flipper seals from Resource Conservation Technology. There is inevitably a small gap at the bottom corners where the sweep and edge seals run by one another. This is usually filled with self-adhesive felt "fuzzies".

Automatic sweeps are a good idea- I have used Pemco and they work. They do require a sizeable dado in the door bottom (around 7/8" x 1 1/4") so unless you have a huge shaper it is wise to precut the grooves in the stiles and bottom rail prior to assembly and expect to do some fine tuning afterward. If you use multi-point latches the layout of the sweep groove relative to the latch strike groove must be considered.

I have always used wood sills (white oak is a good choice), but there is a wide variety of metal ones available. Make sure there is a thermal break under the door. Be aware of codes (ADA requirements).

Be aware also that any glass in or near a door must be tempered or laminated.

Best of luck with your project.

[Joe Hendershott]

Every time I replace a commercial double with a new door I steal the passive door locking hardware before I chuck it. It is relitively easy to machine a new door to accept the hardware from a modern three point locking system, slightly out of character if you are going for OLD, but can only be seen when the door is open. The hardware is usually in good shape. If I need period specific stuff I go to the website previously posted, they are good to deal with.

I use roller bearing hinges as well, never a specific brand and have never had issues with hinges. 6'8" door I do 3 4 1/2" hinges, up to 8'0" I use four, and over that I will go to 5 hinges. Like I said, never had good hinges fail, and the increase in hinges is more to keep the door in check than me worrying about hinge failure. Heaviest door was a 3' thick built up door in 7' height, weighed over 300 pounds, was 42" wide and I used 4 hinges. Door is in a popular bar/restaurant and has 28 years of opening and closing on the original hinges, 4 1/2' needle bearing hinges.

I get my doors seals from environmental engineering. Sometimes I buy new aluminum sills in black if conditions are going to be wet. Yes it is not period correct, but they do not rot and in black are unobtrusive. I have had them made from stone as well when setting a door in a masonry structure.

Have fun with it. One word of caution. Make sure your glueup surface is flat and HAS NO TWIST.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. That answers my questions. The house is more modern so a black sill might work. I do have a 4x8 dead flat assembly table.

[mreza Salav]

I got my handle and hinges from Baldwin. Not sure where you are located and what climate the door is exposed too. Ours (in Alberta) can get -30 (or colder) in winter and summers are relatively dry and up to 30 degree celsius. I had to make sure the seals are super good, in particular the door shoe sweep. Slightest of air gap anywhere means built-up of frost from inside during cold days. I've never had that issue. My initial plan was to build it as a double 36" door but after the advice I got here that a double door is harder to seal I decided to go with a single 42" wide one and wider side-lights.

[Peter Kelly]

I've been using brushed chrome Omnia hardware from Cape Cod Brass on my interior and exterior doors. Their deadbolt cylinders are by Schlage so just ok quality, certainly not Medeco if that matters.
https://omniasupply.com

The more stationary door of a double set should be secured top and bottom with flush bolts mortised into the edge of the unit.
https://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=2411

[Joe Hendershott]

Proper air sealing is critical. As Richard Coers pointed out you will need an astragal with a seal and quality seals all around the perimeter. I like the silicone rubber flipper seals from Resource Conservation Technology. There is inevitably a small gap at the bottom corners where the sweep and edge seals run by one another. This is usually filled with self-adhesive felt "fuzzies".




That site has not only a good selection of products but the simple yet effective descriptions and notes on usage.

[Tom M King]

I've used Resource Conservation Technology seals for probably as long as they have been in business. I know of some of the silicone flap seals still in use that were installed on my self-hung entry doors in the late 1980's, and as late as last year. They are very pleasant to deal with too.

[Bradley Gray]

+1 on Resource Conservation Technology. i have their products I installed 30 years ago still good as new.

Their self adhesive glazing seals are also awesome.