Shelf Pin Jig

[Frank Drackman]

I don't do many projects with adjustable shelves but I just finished two bookcases & a cabinet with multiple adjustable shelves.

After I completed the first bookcase I noticed that the shelves rocked a bit. When I investigated I found that the holes were not equidistant from top of jig and bottom of the jig. There are also a couple of holes that don't have equal spacing between them. Basically the jig is useless.

Looking to get a new, accurate jig. I don't have any Festool products so the LR-32 system is out. I like to use a router to make the holes rather than a drill. I find that I get cleaner holes.

Any recommendations?

[ChrisA Edwards]

I've used the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig with success and accuracy. Good jig and cheap.

[David Stone (CT)]

The one from Woodpeckers works great.
And, agree: the router is the way to go for clean holes.

[Paul F Franklin]

There's an article here on the creek that discusses some options: https://sawmillcreek.org/content.php?137-Shelf-Pin-Jigs-and-Methods

It's a bit old so there may be some newer choices.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I build my own, in either 32MM, or 1" OC holes. Jig uses plunge router, with either 5mm, or 1/4" bit. First ones were built using a Bridgeport, with DRO to drill holes, Not everybody has a neighbor with a Bridgeport, so I figured how to make jig using "off the shelf parts."

[Mike Nardini]

I will second the one from Woodpeckers. I used it again yesterday on some cabinets I am making for my den. It is simple to use and seems more secure than the one I used to use from Rockler. You can set it using a either set of three indexing pins (one set for 32mm and the other for Imperial at three different distances from the board’s edge).

[Jamie Buxton]

I've been using one from Woodhaven for twenty years. It works well. Unlike the OP's template, this one has all the holes exactly where you'd think they should be. Do use a plunge router -- a hundred times better than a drill. https://woodhaven.com/collections/shelf-pin-jigs-accessories-hardware

[Thomas McCurnin]

Veritas is the one I use, which uses a drill which is way easier than a router. Just use a good brad point drill bit. The advantage of the Veritas jig over Rockler and Woodhaven is that the jig uses case hardened steel bushings, rather than a piece of plastic or sheet metal with holes in it. The bushings, if necessary can be switched out to different sizes or replaces if one ever damages the bushing, which is highly unlikely. Like other Veritas tools, they are expensive. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/32251-veritas-shelf-drilling-jig

[Rich Aldrich]

I've used the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig with success and accuracy. Good jig and cheap.

+1 on the Kreg jig.

[David L Morse]

A high accuracy jig is not required if it can be used in a manner that results in mirror image hole locations in the panels. That is, always register from the same edges and flip the jig, using opposite faces for left and right panels.

Here's a jig I made that should make that clearer since it must be used that way:

428592

The extra holes are for shelves that aren't full depth and leave room for taller items in front. The jig has obvious top, bottom, front, and back edges. One face is used for left side panels and then the jig is flipped to drill the right side using the opposite jig face.

For a simpler jig just mark top and front edges, for example, on both the jig and panels and maintain consistent registration. It also helps to mark the panel faces left and right on the surface that's to be drilled.

Jig holes are drilled with a Forstner bit and drill press, pin holes with a plunge router.

[matt romanowski]

I've used this Rockler one a lot. https://www.rockler.com/jig-itreg-shelving-jig-jig-it174-shelving-jig-set-template-self-centering-bit?sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla_with_promotion&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhu6A87mw6AIVDW6GCh3-0QDSEAQYASABEgKL-_D_BwE Works great, reasonable price, and it's good for when you realize you didn't make the holes even after assembly.

[Robert Engel]

Any of the commercial jigs will work.

[Jim Becker]

For one time or very infrequent use, there are a number of less expensive products from places like Rockler. Be sure you have/get the necessary tooling that matches the jig. Personally, I built a wood version of the expensive MEG jig from Norm Abram's plans years ago. It uses a router with a guide bushing to drill the holes precisely and has some nice adjustability. I honestly don't use it very much but when I do, the results are precise as expected.

[roger wiegand]

I bought the Veritas jig decades ago for a big project, it's worked perfectly for me ever since. For one-time use I'd make a template using a piece of plywood and drilling carefully-- drill only one set of holes and flip it over to cut the left and right sides, registering it to the top or bottom of the panel so that small inaccuracies won't result in rocking shelves.

[Jared Sankovich]

Before I got a line boring machine I just used a section of pegboard and a router to bore the pin holes. The pegboard was nice in that you could do a 8' section of holes in one setup.

[Jay Kepley]

The Kreg jig is very useful and not expensive. I had to replace the bit, though, because the Kreg bit caused a lot of tear out. I bought a Lee Valley bit that works perfectly.

[Harold Patterson]

The Kreg works for me and it has the advantage of three different spacing widths from the edge.

[glenn bradley]

Since you stated wanting to use a router I think the Kreg is out. The Woodhaven (https://www.amazon.com/Woodhaven-781-Inch-Shelf-Pin/dp/B001TQEJ9W) accepts a 3/8" template collar and this is the method I use on a modified Rocker version. It is important to remember that using a router is usually done prior to assembly. Being able to add holes after assembly to counteract and irregularities is what I think makes drill motor versions more popular. They are not wrong but, I prefer the lunge router for clean perpendicular holes.

[Lee Schierer]

I don't use self pins often enough to justify the price and space for a dedicated jig. When I want adjustable shelves, I will first mark the two support pieces with the distance from the front and rear of the cabinet with my combination square all along the path of the holes. Then I lay out the spacing on one of these lines. Then I clamp the two support pieces together so the graduated line is close to the center of the clamp up. Then I transfer the spacing to the remaining three lines with my carpenter square, which has bee checked for perpendicularity. Once all the holes are marked, I carefully drill all the holes using my drill press with a properly sized brad point bit. The shelves don't rock when the pins or angle clips are installed.

[Gordon Stump]

I use the Rockler jig and drill system as well.

[Tom M King]

Mine is probably the simplest, cheapest, and most crude ever. It's also at least 35 years old.

I have a few strips of BB plywood, that have small holes drilled with a drill press, after being stepped off with dividers. Those holes are a tight, slide fit to a TIG welding Tungsten that has a precisely centered sharp point on it, and a little wooden handle. The plywood strips are clamped to the cabinet part, and each hole marked by hand with the Tungsten.

After marking, it goes to the drill press that has roller stands set so it can easily be moved side to side, and the holes drilled with a good brad point bit in the drill press, using the tiny marking holes to judge where to start the bit.

It sounds crude, but it's worked for my one, or two cabinet jobs a year for decades. There has never been a rocking shelf produced, but I do have good eyesight.

edited to add: I said 35 years old, but I just remembered what house I started using them on, and that was built in 1978. Before that, I used the metal tracks.

And before I went high tech with the TIG Tungsten, I used a sharpened 6 penny finish nail for several decades.

[Larry Frank]

I built the WWA Shelf Pin Jig and used it a number of times. It is cheap, accurate and quick using it with a plunge router.

[michael dilday]

I have the Kreg jig and it works great. Router jig is interesting though.

[Terry Therneau]

I used a Rocker jig, with drill bit, and did the shelf pins near to the end. Take care if you do this! On one hole the bit grabbed and went through; on the secretary face that would be most visible and well lit of course. I got to learn how to make a Dutchman. It took a day, and in the end is almost invisible. But that wasn't the way I wanted to learn.
Terry T

[Ken Kortge]

Frank,

What jig were you using??

[Frank Drackman]

An old Rockler


Frank,

What jig were you using??

[Wakahisa Shinta]

This is not too difficult to make from scrap plywood. I have more than a few, in different lengths, spacing, etc. The longest one is made from a 6-foot 1/2-inch thick plywood scrap, about 10 inch wide. Size the hole to a brass guide bushing of your choice, lay out the spacing between the shelf pin as you desire, bore the holes using a frostner bit. I find using a larger diameter guide bushing allow chips to be cleared with a vacuum better. Router bits can be changed between 1/4" or 5 mm. Whiteside up-cut spiral bit works very well and leaves clean holes. The essential thing is to always locate the jig on opposite panels by mirroring the position and referencing from the same edge/side/end. Need a plunge router though. The small version of any of the brands works well.

[Jared Sankovich]

Kreg bit, router bushing and a section of pegboard

429128

[Jim Becker]

Kreg bit, router bushing and a section of pegboard

429128

I assume 5mm holes in the workpiece? Nice solution.

[Jared Sankovich]

I assume 5mm holes in the workpiece? Nice solution.

Yes, 5mm holes. Its actually likely still faster than the line borer I have (7 spindle) for really tall cabinets.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, a router with a guide bushing and a jig can be pretty darn quick. While mine is setup for a much larger guide bushing (a wood version of the MEG that Norm Abram designed), the principle is the same as your pegboard setup. Router is typically cleaner than using a drill bit, too. at east hand-held.

[joseph f merz]

i also like using a router .just makes sense it would be straighter holes . I have two different templates ,both i believe are rockler .with the templates i can make up special jigs ,like drilling holes in assembled cabinets i might make one up just fot that cabinet .
i found when using a router with the jig dust collection is very important .gets to hot ,burns the wood a ruins jig .

[Tom M King]

I ran across these yesterday, and remembered this thread, so I took a couple of pictures. These are what I mentioned earlier in this thread. Since I only built cabinets for one house a year (did everything else on those houses, as well), I never had reason to get anything "better". Typically, it would be a one morning job to do all the parts for any one house. My setup with the drill press was pretty fast, and I never had to remake a part.

Even though it's been decades ago, I remember making them. I just scribed a pencil line down where I wanted the centerline of the holes, stepped off with dividers, leaving a little indention, and then drilled the holes with the drill press. Probably some numbered drill bit, but I don't remember which. They were made, I believe, before there was a commercial jig available, or at least, one that I thought worth buying.

These have probably done a million dollars worth of cabinets. My cabinet shop was the setup in the garage. I've had 33 different garage shops, in the 33 houses, over those 33 years-stopped building spec houses in 2007, and have been working on old houses since then.

[Dan Rude]

John Heinz has a nice one that uses a router, it basically just slide the router to the next hole. https://ibuildit.ca/projects/shelf-pin-jig/ I did pick up the Rockler Router one on Clearance, have not used it yet but will soon. Dan

[Brian Backner]

I built a very large library twenty years ago - 1000 lineal feet of shelving and floor-to-ceiling bookcases that were ten feet tall. When I realized it would require 18,000 shelf pin holes (yes, eighteen thousand), I went looking for the best router jig I could buy - I went with MEG Products as they produced, at that time, a very robust and easily adjustable jig made from a 1/2" thick plate of T6061 aluminum. As the case uprights were a full 3" thick, I had to modify the MEG jig to handle the thickness. Once I got it tweaked, I was able to do two rows of 110 holes (440 total) on both sides of one of those massive uprights in about 15 minutes. It was not cheap, about $300, but I've never regretted buying it. Every shelf sits perfectly on its four pins to this day. The MEG jig is still available:

http://megproducts.com/pro-bore32.html