? with removing stuck knurled bolts on a Stanley plane

[Mike Manning]

I was graciously gifted a Stanley No 39 1/2" dado plane a few months ago. Thank you again Ron M! It was heavily corroded with rust. I couldn't get any movable part to budge. It's been soaking in ATF for close to 2 months. Last week I successfully removed three of the four screws that hold the scoring cutters. That last screw bent my vintage Craftsman screwdriver and remains attached to the plane for now. There are three knurled bolts/screws that remain to be removed. The rear one applies pressure to hold the cutter in place. There is also another bolt/screw with a slot that's associated in some manner with the iron/cutter. The forward knurled bolt looks like it controls the depth stop. What is the best way to get a grip on these three knurled bolts to remove them? I think before I attempt this I will take the plane out of the ATF and put it in an electrolysis tank to remove the rust. Thoughts/guidance is much appreciated. A quick search did not turn up a parts diagram for a No 39 which would have been useful for identifying parts. If anyone has a link to such a parts diagram that would be great.

Update: I tried to remove the one knurled bolt with a slot using a large screwdriver. It didn't budge. I don't believe that after two months there's much to gain by keeping the plane soaking in ATF. Will clean it up this week and put it in an e-tank as mentioned above.

Thanks!
Mike

[Jim Koepke]

It seems each person has their own favorite be it WD-40, CRC 5-56, Break Free, Kano-Kroil or one of the many other corrosion busters.

Often when a bolt is too tight my preference is to use a pair of Vise Grip or water pump pliers with tubing over the jaws to protect the bolt.

Back in the day an old bicycle tire inner tube would fit the bill.

jtk

[steven c newman]

let's see IF this helps any...
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And..
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The long knurled bolt that sets the depth of cut....doesn't seem designed to come out...

A thumbscrew with washer (like on a 78) locks the depth stop in place.

You MIGHT be able to grab the head of the slotted bolt with a pair of Visegrips.

[Tom M King]

If such a screw/machine bolt, or whatever won't move, the original style of impact driver will move it if it's going to. They are still sold. You hit it with a mallet, and it turns a tiny bit while being forced down in the slot by the impact. Don't hit it hard to start with. If it moves at all, it will come out. I've been having good luck with Deep Creep lately, but I'm not sure it's better than ATF, and Acetone, or any of the other commercial ones.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Impact-Tool-Set/999957785?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-bing-_-pla-_--_-mechanicstools-_-999957785-_-0&kpid&placeholder=null&msclkid=b757502f33b7177020f90e58cbb0f38b&gclid=CMKd86ahr-gCFcQ5gQodFC8NKA&gclsrc=ds

[Mike Henderson]

Be careful not to break off the screw or bolt. Then you have a different problem AND you have to find a replacement.

Mike

[justin sherriff]

The long knurled bolt that sets the depth of cut....doesn't seem designed to come out...

That long knurled bolt depth stop adjuster does come off. Counter clockwise all the way up and you will get to the none thread spot, then turn clockwise and keep pulling up so as not to let the top threads catch. The depth stop will come off and you jut pull the bolt out then.

Look at getting some Evapo-rust https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=as_li_ss_tl?smid=AO4C8SKVS30KA&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=handtoolres0e-20&linkId=b012edf756eb2a5eae4b7a87ddd4e527 discount code "25fitzall" to save a few bucks.
That stuff works good and is so much simpler then electrolysis and you can keep reusing it for quite some time too.

[Derek Cohen]

You could try directed heat on the bolt. The expansion from this often breaks the rust weld.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Eisenhauer]

Mike: I have an original impact driver you can use if you want to try that. PM me if you are interested.

[Mike Manning]

Thanks for the suggestions. I've got Evapo-rust but that stuff is expensive so I try to use it only as a last resort. Thanks a ton Justin for the code. A gallon shipped to my door for less than $16! I'll take that!

I'm going to clean the ATF off and probably use Evapo-rust just because it's so much easier than setting up my electrolysis tank (which takes about 5 min). :0\ Will try the suggestions offered.

[lowell holmes]

I would place the plane in the oven at 200 degrees and see if the expansion broke the bond.

Or try a pencil torch flame to GENTLY heat and try. Do not be in a hurry.

[Mark Daily]

How about navel jelly or Krud Kutter- must for rust?

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[Bruce Volden]

I've had very good luck soaking rusted stuff with screws in a 5 gallon bucket.
I add distilled white vinegar to cover what's necessary and come back in 3-4 days.
I have had to "finesse" screws with Kroil after the soak but have yet to strip/ruin any....yet!

Bruce

[steven c newman]

have found that the vinegar soak does more harm than good.....as it will not stop eating.

have had better luck with a soaking of PB Blaster....then a hammer to hit the big screwdriver. Had a king bolt on a Stanley No. 346 Mitre box that was rusted in almost solid...two soakings, and a couple whacks on the screwdriver...and out the bolt came.
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Once things were apart, wire wheel to clean things up, then Rustoleum Black to keep it clean...and oil on any threads.
YMMV

[lowell holmes]

Gentle heat will sometimes break the rust bond. It is worth a try.