Outfeed table height

[Jon Endres]

I am planning to build a new stand-alone outfeed table for my table saw. Will be a torsion-box design with drawers underneath. I have been watching various videos, even dusting off those antique things they call "books" to read for information, and there's two different thoughts on the height of the table. Some think that the height should be a 16th or so below the tablesaw top height, and that you should rout grooves into the top of the outfeed to extend the miter slots for clearance. Others think the outfeed should be 1/2" or 7/16" below the top of the table saw, just enough to clear the bottom of the miter slots so that there is no need for the grooves. I'm not sure that 1/2" makes a lot of difference, since the outfeed with be 6' long and I will be able to support pretty long stock. Maybe the last inch or so of the cut might be affected?

What say you all?

[George Yetka]

I think if the piece can stay straight on the fence and the weight out front doesn't pull the piece up and off the blade it doesn't matter. I do think if you use the outfeed table as an assembly bench i would want it as tall as possible. Mine is set 1/8" or so lower and the Height is OK but an inch higher would be better for comfort. i wouldnt want to go another 1/2 lower., it wouldnt be the end of the world though

[glenn bradley]

The right height for you will vary with how you use it. If you do sheet goods work where you will pull the piece back after a cut to rotate and make a second cut frequently, a level outfeed will avoid surface damage. I rarely use sheet material and my table being just below the miter slots has worked for me for many years. The height is adjustable so I could change my mind (or my tablesaw) without issue. Make your height adjustable and decide later. I decided not to level mine so far.

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[ChrisA Edwards]

I made mine, a torsion box top with drawers for storage and height adjustable so I could fine tune it to the tablesaw.

Here's a link to a good thread on outfeed tables. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?280519-Making-an-outfeed-table-for-table-saw&p=2993594#post2993594

This is what I copied

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6K81qQofCeM&feature=emb_logo

[johnny means]

An out feed that sits below the saw's top isn't really an out feed at all. As I see it, the main purpose of an out feed is to support longer work pieces that tend to lift off of the blade. This becomes especially important when machining longer heavier parts. I always shoot for my out feeds to be co-planar with the machine top.

[Matt Day]

Same height for me, and I route grooves into the table about 6” long. I’ve had it lower in the past when my outfeed table was my main workbench. I had it 1/2” lower than the TS and used a piece of 1/2” mdf with a cleat to catch boards pushed the TS. The clear kept the mdf from being pushed/pulled off the bench.

I’m currently trying to get two table saws setup diagonal to each other and aligning both table saw tops and extension table tops. I started by leveling one table saw, and I’m working on leveling the other and shimming it’s to the same height. Need to make a spacer to span the gap in between too. We’ll see how it goes.

[Lisa Starr]

Mine is height adjustable and is set a whisker below the saw table. I have grooves routed to accommodate the miter gage and sled.

[Rich Aldrich]

I made mine adjustable like Chris posted - he suggested it to me and I watched the video he attached. The issue I have with my shop floor is it was an addition, so the floor isn't perfect where the out feed table goes. I have the table on wheels so I might not be able to get it in the same spot each time I move it back in position. I have just an open shelf under mine. I had originally planned to put my compressor on the shelf but there isn't enough head room.

I set the table the same height as the table saw using a straight edge.

[Randall J Cox]

My outfeed table is the same height (with slight chamfers on the leading edge) as my Unisaw, with grooves routed in to accommodate whatever (sleds, miters, etc.). Has worked fine for me for almost 30 years now. We each have different ways of doing things and more than one solution might work, depending your situation and what you mostly do in your shop. (More than one way to skin a cat.) Randy Damn, now the Peta folks will be after me............

[Jim Dwight]

Mine is about 1/4 inch lower than my table saw. The concrete floor of my shop is not very level so by having it a bit lower, the board has to bow down or I don't have an issue pushing it onto the outfeed. If it wants to droop significantly the outfeed supports it. It is a large surface and is also my bench and assembly table - 3x7 feet. It is built with a Ron Paulk style double layer top so you can store tools on the lower level and keep the upper cleaner. The top is perforated with 20mm holes on 4 inch centers for clamping and using my track saw. I plan to add a leg vise.

[Michael Drew]

I'm just finishing up a folding type outfeed table that's attached to the saw. I set the height just slightly lower than the saw's table, only for those slightly bowed boards that I find myself ripping from time to time. Figured it would suck to have one hang up on the OF table. I'm working on adjustable height support legs now. When I'm done, I'll be able to adjust them from the top of the table.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I would rather have it set as high as it can go without causing the workpiece or sled to hang up. I don't like things moving around when using the TS, and want to just be able to concentrate on feeding smoothly and accurately. So yes you'd have to cut clearance slots for the miter bars.

Torsion box is overkill unless you want this to double as an assembly table.

[Jak Kelly]

If room was not or is not an issue then an out-feed table at the same height with "T" slots would be the way I'd go. Unfortunately space is often an issue with me. So normally when long stock is being ripped or cut then using a miter probably is not of concern, maybe not in all cases but in most, correct? Anyway what I use is a couple adjustable saw horses and i keep a few 2x6's around and some 7/16 OSB; if I only need 4 feet of support then i have a few 4' 2x6's and a 4x4 sheet of OSB, if 8' is needed then I have a few 8' 2x6's and a 4x8 sheet of OSB. I just screw the 2x6's down to the sawhorses and then screw my OSB down to the 2x6's.
This may not be ideal for some but it has worked very well for me. Works a lot better than asking a wife to help me rip sheet goods or 12' long material. JMHO.

[Christopher Herzog]

I made one with adjustable leg heights. It typically sits about 1/8" lower than my table saw top.

[Chris Fournier]

I'm just finishing up a folding type outfeed table that's attached to the saw. I set the height just slightly lower than the saw's table, only for those slightly bowed boards that I find myself ripping from time to time. Figured it would suck to have one hang up on the OF table. I'm working on adjustable height support legs now. When I'm done, I'll be able to adjust them from the top of the table.

I now have a Euro slider and don't really need an outfeed table for the most part. I do have a 4' X 8' torsion box assembly table on wheels with height adjusters at the corners and on rare occasions I'll use it as an outfeed for log ripping operations.

When I had a cabinet saw (which I till miss dearly) I went with the scheme that Michael mentions above. Adjustable metal frame to get everything just right. Dedicated to outfeed. If I was to do it over again I'd do this again with out blinking. Table surfaces are usually cluttered with assemblies and stock and make poor outfeeds when they are needed.

One person's opinion...