Power Cord 3hp Table Saw

[Vince Shriver]

Assembling my new Jet 3hp XACTA T/S, and I need to provide a power cord. It goes from saw to a 20a breaker (single phase, 220v). Use 10g or 12g? TIA, vince

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, for single phase I would use 14awg as it’s rated at 18 amperes.

Regards, Rod

[Vince Shriver]

Thanks, Rod

[roger wiegand]

12 is bigger than you need, I'd use it anyway because that's just what I do. The cost jump from 14 to 12 is small, up to 10 gets pricy.

[Earl McLain]

14 to 12 is also not a lot heavier or stiffer. 10 is a different story. I built a 12awg when could have easily used 14--just wanted the beef.
earl

[Ron Selzer]

you don't say where you live at so we have to guess at what would be proper for you
So use 12 gauge 3 wire cord to wire your saw, as long as the cord is less than 50 feet long
IF you install a receptacle then make sure the receptacle and male cord end are rated for 20 amp, 220v, single phase

[Bill Dufour]

If he installs a receptacle I think he has to go to #12 not #14. If it is hardwired into the saw #14 will do.
Bill D

[David Buchhauser]

Definitely 12 ga. 3 wire for you application.
David



Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable


14-gauge wire
15 amps


12-gauge wire
20 amps

[Rod Sheridan]

Definitely 12 ga. 3 wire for you application.
David



Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable


14-gauge wire
15 amps


12-gauge wire
20 amps



That table is for NM, not flexible cord....Rod

[jack duren]

I wouldn't run anything leas than 12...

[David L Morse]

That table is for NM, not flexible cord....Rod

To be complete, here's the applicable table from the NEC:

428359

[Jim Becker]

I typically use the rubber coated cord available in bulk from the home center to make up machine cords. I use 12 gage for 20 amp machines and 10 gauge for 30 amp machines. Yes, it's heavier stuff, but it's also tough and stays flexible. Care is needed when stripping the ends to avoid nicking with a blade, but the end result is a very good and sturdy power cord for the tool in the exact length you want/need. I happen to use pig-tails on some of my machines which while increasing the cost of connections (I use twist locks), makes for a more flexible solution over time without having too much cord from the tool to the outlet. If the machine has to move, it's easy to make up a longer or shorter cord without digging into the machine or having that long cord to manage while physically moving it. Overkill for sure in most cases, but it's a preference that I've appreciated as my shop has evolved over time.

[Vince Shriver]

I typically use the rubber coated cord available in bulk from the home center to make up machine cords. I use 12 gage for 20 amp machines and 10 gauge for 30 amp machines. Yes, it's heavier stuff, but it's also tough and stays flexible. Care is needed when stripping the ends to avoid nicking with a blade, but the end result is a very good and sturdy power cord for the tool in the exact length you want/need. I happen to use pig-tails on some of my machines which while increasing the cost of connections (I use twist locks), makes for a more flexible solution over time without having too much cord from the tool to the outlet. If the machine has to move, it's easy to make up a longer or shorter cord without digging into the machine or having that long cord to manage while physically moving it. Overkill for sure in most cases, but it's a preference that I've appreciated as my shop has evolved over time.


Many thanks Jim - and all other replies. I will be using 12 gage as you described with the twist locks.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I recently had to swap out a 50A GFCI breaker in my garage that my lathe was tripping. The circuit was initially setup to serve a hot tub located out doors, but as I don't have a hot tub anymore, my electrician friend repurposed the circuit to give me another sub panel and another 220v drop in my shop.

Anyway, while he was doing this, he put his load meter on the circuit while I powered on various tools.

I wanted to know if the sub panel could support my current 220V tools as well as a 220v DC unit, which is on my wish list.

Sp I was curious to see the load of my Hammer A3-31 and SawStop 3HP running simultaneously.

The A3-31 had a startup hit of 53A, fo a few milliseconds and then settled to a 4A draw. The SawStop pulled 3A with no major spike at startup.

[David Buchhauser]

That table is for NM, not flexible cord....Rod


Same applies for S or SO flexible cable.
David

[David L Morse]

Same applies for S or SO flexible cable.
David

So the NEC is wrong?

[Bill Dufour]

One column for included neutral conductor. The other column for two hots and one ground with no neutral wire.
Cords have thicker heavier insulation then cable so heating is more of an issue. But they are in free air and not buried inside a insulated wall so they do cool off more. Thus the amps pretty much balance out.
Bil lD

[David Buchhauser]

I typically use the rubber coated cord available in bulk from the home center to make up machine cords. I use 12 gage for 20 amp machines and 10 gauge for 30 amp machines. Yes, it's heavier stuff, but it's also tough and stays flexible. Care is needed when stripping the ends to avoid nicking with a blade, but the end result is a very good and sturdy power cord for the tool in the exact length you want/need. I happen to use pig-tails on some of my machines which while increasing the cost of connections (I use twist locks), makes for a more flexible solution over time without having too much cord from the tool to the outlet. If the machine has to move, it's easy to make up a longer or shorter cord without digging into the machine or having that long cord to manage while physically moving it. Overkill for sure in most cases, but it's a preference that I've appreciated as my shop has evolved over time.


+1 to that!! 12 ga. is definitely the way to go for a 20 amp machine, and 10 ga. for 30 amp. machine. For extension cords and power cords - toughness and flexibility are definite advantages.
David

[Zac wingert]

Just use 12 gauge, you’ll be fine.

[Alex Zeller]

Sounds like the OP is going with 12 gauge (which is a wise choice). When it comes to power cords the NEC assumes that the demand will be 100% at 100% duty cycle. It has to because how could they know something would be used differently. That being said it's not abnormal to buy something rated for 20 amps with a 16 gauge cord. The engineer who designed it knew that the normal load would be much less. For example, how often will your table saw actually be drawing that much load? Rarely will anyone be ripping 10/4 oak nonstop. I'm sure you could of used 14 gauge cord and never had a problem but for a few extra bucks why not go with what will work no matter what.

[Jacob Reverb]

I'd use SOOW.

[Derek Arita]

I always opt for the safest, longest lasting cord I can get. I've always used a 30A breaker with 10 ga. flexible cord. It may be overkill, but I've never had an issue with it.

[Travis Conner]

Soow and sjoow is good for 25 amps for 12 gauge. Technically I could used 12 gauge for my 5hp but didn't realize at the time.

[Dave Sabo]

Just a note - I believe the home centers have stopped selling cable by the foot.

I know The Depot announced they were stopping, which I assume means the Blue Box is too. Can’t speak for the regional players and I have seen by the foot cable at some Ace locations I’ve been in recently.

[Jim Becker]

That would be sad, Dave, but I can appreciate that it was probably one of the more complicated and "wasteful" areas in the electrical section. That was my source for the rubber coated stuff to make up machine cords.

[Andy D Jones]

Home Depot online shows a variety of SOOW cord available by the foot, but only with free shipping to your local store. It appears only complete rolls are available in store.

I wonder if they are simply no longer providing by the foot cutting service in each store, but are consolidating that service to fewer locations. Consolidation would result in lower costs and waste.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Jim Becker]

That sounds like a doable solution Andy...especially for free store pickup.

[mike stenson]

Are we sure the motor is a 20amp draw? Most 3hp are 15 amp..

[Alex Zeller]

About 2 weeks ago I picked up some 2 weeks ago at Lowes. They had 16, 12, and 10 gauge. The 10 awg 4 was cheaper than the 12 awg 3 SJOOW. The difference was the thickness of the rubber cover. SJOOW is only rated for 300v vs SOOW being rated for 600. I was making some long extension cords and the extra thickness was less important to me than the potential voltage drop so I went with the thicker wire. While the rack used to hold the wire take up some room if they remove it they'll give me one less reason to visit the store. Other than weight buying power cord is something that can easily be done on-line through plenty of cheaper companies. I do get that it's not just the rack but having an employee who knows how to operate it, measure and cut the wire, and to correctly label it.