How do Miller Falls bench planes compare to Stanley?

[Mike Manning]

A thread in the Classifieds forum got me wondering how the Miller Falls bench planes compare with Stanley planes prior to WWII? Is there a type classification for the MF planes like has been done with Stanley planes? Is there an era for the Miller Falls planes that is considered the best in terms of features and quality? I'm guessing maybe type 1 and type 2 planes. ??? I did find a considerable bit of info on oldtoolheavendotcom. I've never come across one of the MF planes and was just curious. From what I've read in various threads they seem to be well thought of.

[Tim Nguyen]

When I went looking for my first plane, I immediately though Stanley. The Veritas and Lie Nielson were both out of my price range. The WoodRiver was within range, but I though I could get at least two or three older plane for the same price as a single WoodRiver plane. The Millers Falls was interesting because of the unique hinged lever cap. I think Millers Falls and Paragon Planes are the only two company that have that unique cap. Accidentally, I went on a spending frenzy and now have a MF No. 22 to No. 8 with the exception of a No. 10. Most of the planes I purchased are in good condition and all users except for the franken type 1 No. 9.
The Millers Falls offer a different design and the horse shoe shape logo is a win. They are a little more scarce than the typical Stanley and still relatively easy to obtain. According to Jim Matthews, a member here, they are falling out of tree where is he from. Hummm, I could always get another No. 9... wonder if the wife will notice....

[steven c newman]

There is indeed a site for Millers Falls tools....search for, say a Millers Falls No. 9....and the site will show up

There were basically 5 "types" of MF planes....Type 1 started when they first entered the plane market in 1929, and are collector's items....most commonly found is the Type 3...1941-1949. There are two Type 2s...from before the war, and then after the war. The last GOOD type is the type 4. Do NOT bother with the type 5.

I have a few of the Type 2 and 3....and a very good type 4. The irons seem to be a hair thicker on the Millers Falls planes, than the Stanley ones I have.
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Left to right. Type 2 No. 11, Type 2 No. 14, and a Type 3 No. 15. Millers Falls model numbers were based on the length of the sole. Although, a No. 8 while the width of a #3Stanley, is still the same length as the #9 MF/Stanley #4....9". And, if set up the way they are supposed to be...are all chatter-free.

[glenn bradley]

This guy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7OJb7rhVe4) will talk you through a lot of the types. My type 3 and early 4 No.9's and 14 are solid workers. I put PM-v11 iron and cap set in a 9 and was happy enough about it to pony up for a second iron and cap set for the 14 about a year later. A few years ago these planes were a bargain. Prices are up on MF but, are up on others too so the difference may still make them a bargain

[Frederick Skelly]

I have an MF #9 (equals a Stanley #4) that belonged to my Grandfather. It was my first plane and after tuning it well, it remains my favorite of all my planes - pre-Ww2 Stanley, new Veritas, new LN and new Wood River. It's a delight to use and is my go to smoother. It is used on every project. Shavings 1-2 mils using a Veritas replacement iron. I'll buy the MF equivalent of a #3 one of these days.

[Rob Luter]

I've had a couple. They were the #56 (Stanley #60 1/2) block, #14 (Stanley#5) Jack, and #10 (Stanley #4 1/2) Smoother. They were nice planes. The 2 piece lever cap on the two bench planes was clever. When sharp they worked just like a plane is supposed to work. They moved on years ago.

[Andrew Seemann]

I have some Millers Falls block planes in Craftsman regalia. I am quite fond of them; they work very well. Same with the Sargents. I've also got a Millers Falls rabbit block plane, again very nice. I've got some chisels, Yankee drills & screwdrivers, and rules as well. Most of the older Millers Falls stuff is good, on par with Stanley, Goodall Pratt, Union, Lufkin, Sargent, etc. Some of the '50s, 60s, and 70s stuff can get a little flakey, but that happened with most of the manufactures then.

[Jim Koepke]

My Dunlap #9 worked just as well as either of my Stanley/Bailey #3s. It is not with my grandson in California.

jtk

[Tony Zaffuto]

I am a fan of the two piece lever cap on MF planes, and always on the look out for them. I find this model of MF easier to get to perform than similar Stanley Baileys.

More collector than user, the MF Buck Rogers, are more than excellent, though you would be unlikely to come across one, except through a dealer (I have examples of each MF Buck Roger tools).

[Tim Nguyen]

Talking about Millers Falls. My No. 15 came in today. My wife wasn't as impress, but maybe you guys would be more enthusiastic about it.

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N0. 22 to No. 8, missing the No. 10. Some of the guys need a few parts to make them true MF planes. Missing the cap for No. 11 and a couple of irons.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Talking about Millers Falls. My No. 15 came in today. My wife wasn't as impress, but maybe you guys would be more enthusiastic about it.

428176

N0. 22 to No. 8, missing the No. 10. Some of the guys need a few parts to make them true MF planes. Missing the cap for No. 11 and a couple of irons.

No. 15 is a 5-1/2 sized plane, correct? 5-1/2 is one of my favorite sizes, plus No. 3 and 7.

[Tim Nguyen]

Yes, MF No. 15 is a Stanley 5 1/2. Elusive size for MF planes.

[Trevor Walsh]

I have a Millers Falls equivalent to a Stanley #5, it's heavier than a Stanley by a little which I like. I've been really happy with it.

[Laurent Marshall]

I'm a big fan of Millers Falls planes, and gradually acquired a collection of #'s 8-22 with the exception of the #15. I live in New England, and spent a lot of time in central MA, so I appreciate MF tools as a piece of local history.

As users, I think they are just as good as any Stanley, and offer the same performance. My MF planes are all types 2-4, and I think compared to pre-war Stanleys, they are cosmetically a bit less "precise" in fit and finish, and tend to have a slightly wider mouth. Some of the earlier Stanley's are just really nicely executed when you get one in good shape!

For MF planes, I actually prefer the later type 4. The overwhelmingly common wartime MF planes are more likely to have a very soft, mystery alloy depth adjuster nut of a silver color (some Stanleys from this period have plastic ones), and a cheaper mystery wood for the handle. I also prefer the handle shape on the later MF planes, they're are a nice tropical hardwood (as were the pre-war examples), and I really like the heavier brass casting they used for the adjuster nut.

[Laurent Marshall]

No. 15 is a 5-1/2 sized plane, correct? 5-1/2 is one of my favorite sizes, plus No. 3 and 7.

Correct :) And that is one of those sizes you don't see so often from MF.

[Ron Bontz]

When I went looking for my first plane, I immediately though Stanley. The Veritas and Lie Nielson were both out of my price range. The WoodRiver was within range, but I though I could get at least two or three older plane for the same price as a single WoodRiver plane. The Millers Falls was interesting because of the unique hinged lever cap. I think Millers Falls and Paragon Planes are the only two company that have that unique cap. Accidentally, I went on a spending frenzy and now have a MF No. 22 to No. 8 with the exception of a No. 10. Most of the planes I purchased are in good condition and all users except for the franken type 1 No. 9.
The Millers Falls offer a different design and the horse shoe shape logo is a win. They are a little more scarce than the typical Stanley and still relatively easy to obtain. According to Jim Matthews, a member here, they are falling out of tree where is he from. Hummm, I could always get another No. 9... wonder if the wife will notice....

Still Looking for the No. 22 and 24 Miller Falls type 2, myself. Seems those that have them for sale believe they are gold. The times I have used my 10, etc. are the cats meow with the Veritas A2 iron and chip breaker in it.

[Rafael Herrera]

I also own several Millers Falls planes and other tools. They were well made and perform really well for me. The company has a really interesting history, their management had very old fashioned ethics.

[steven c newman]

A "Family Photo" of the ones I have....other than the #1544 low-angle block plane...still in it original box, BTW..
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Left to right: #15, #14, #11, # 9, #8, #9, and a Craftsman #8....
Two stanleys above this mess and a Stanley No. 6 to the left of the group...

[Mike Manning]

Sounds like Miller Falls are good planes. I hope to come across some in the wild going forward.

[John Gornall]

I like the MF plames - they work well. But I've had corrosion problems in the threaded rods thru the tote and knob. I'll be planing with a plane that looks like new and the knob or tote will break off. Rod totally corroded, no getting the pieces out of the body without drilling.

[steven c newman]

A lot of the threaded rods were actually "Blued" steel bolts.....sometime the blue was removed to make things shiny for the next buyer.....domestic hardwood handles then drew moisture and rust the steel.....simple solution would have been a drop of oil on the threads, just before threading them back into place on the plane. Don't blame the plane for someone's lack of foresight.....when you get a plane, take it apart, oil the threads a bit, even a wipe along the shafts of the bolts/rods...including ALL threaded parts. Just that one simple, little step, can save a LOT of trouble down the road.....and NOT just Millers Falls planes....ANY plane.

One note: I have yet to have any Millers Falls plane "chatter", even with the OEM iron....and all of mine have the original iron......works just fine.
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Even this one..
.428480

[Jim Koepke]

I like the MF plames - they work well. But I've had corrosion problems in the threaded rods thru the tote and knob. I'll be planing with a plane that looks like new and the knob or tote will break off. Rod totally corroded, no getting the pieces out of the body without drilling.

Depending on your equipment on hand removing the threaded remnants might be done without great difficulty.

Do you have access to a drill press?

My older drill press has a reversible motor. This would allow for using left handed drill bits. In my experience these work better than an easy out in removing broken bolts and screws.

You location isn't entered in your profile information. You may live close to someone who may be willing and able to help you.

jtk

[John Gornall]

Thanks Jim, I have all the tools. 2 of the planes have the rod rusted right thru at the body. I haven't tried repair yet. Not sure of the thread size.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim, I have all the tools. 2 of the planes have the rod rusted right thru at the body. I haven't tried repair yet. Not sure of the thread size.

Hopefully someone here will be able to help with that. My grandson was given my only Millers Falls made plane. He lives 600 miles away so it would be difficult for me to check.

Stanley/Bailey planes have been my preferred plane if only for the interchangeability of many parts. They used an uncommon thread pitch for most of their hardware.

My recollection is Millers Falls used a more common thread. The knob and tote should have the same pitch. It is also likely the same from model to model if you have more Millers Falls planes.

jtk

[Jerry Olexa]

I've always like the 2 piece lever cap..Unique...I think they are close to STANLEY in quality those years....One of few.