Gluing up multiple boards to make one thick board

[John Rice]

So I am in my final stages of the rocking horse I’m making for my son. I have (2) 1.5” and (1) .75” hard maple boards I need to join together. What is the best way to accomplish this with the best results. My thoughts were to sand with 220 grit lightly before glue and clamping.

some thoughts/questions:

1) should I clean the wood with a solvent like paint thinner first?
2) Will the glue that is squeezed out when clamping stain the wood at the joints and be noticeable? Ways to prevent this?
3) money not being an issue what glue should he used?


any and all tips would be appreciated. Being a dad and working full time I don’t get much time in the shop. So this project is going on 3 months. Want to make sure the final step go smooth (as possible).

427738 427739

[Prashun Patel]

Use a PVA "Wood Glue". You can get Titebond (red) or Titebond II (blue) at most home stores.
Wipe off any squeeze out during clamping. Plan on sanding the rest off.

Sand the wood by hand and make sure it's flat. Sanding will clean the surface enough. Ideally each of the 2 glued surfaces will make 100% contact, with (almost) no low spots. before you glue them, lay them together and make sure there is no rocking and that there are no big gaps around the perimeter. There's enough surface that even if it's not 100% contacting, you should be ok - as long as there are no gaps around the perimeter. If you have to clamp perimeter gaps to eliminate them, you risk them opening up down the line.

I would glue the sides to the center in separate steps; wait until the first is dry before doing the second side. This will help you align everything. Insert the handle and make another for the eye to help align everything. After clamping, pull out the dowels so that they're not glued in permanently.

Apply glue liberally to each mating face and use a credit card or something else to squeegie it into a reasonably even, thin film. Place the two halves together and slide them a little to distribute the glue completely.

Tighten the clamps slowly and a little bit at a time, cycling - as if you were replacing lug nuts on a tire. Take care to keep the edges aligned as they will want to move under the lubricating glue (the dowels will help prevent this a little as you tighten) Use as many clamps as you can. Leave it for at least 4 hours (overnight better) before doing the second glue up. Leave the final, clamped, cleaned assembly alone for 24 hours.

I know it's too late, but next time, I would glue up everything before cutting.

Also, I made a similar design, and the tail broke within a few months. Just a heads up. We ended up attaching a mop as a tail and it's lasted better.

[Doug Garson]

Agree with Prashun's advice except not sure about gluing it up before cutting. On the plus side you can use screws in the waste area to pull the pieces together but then you have to cut 3 3/4" thich hard maple which might be difficult. Another approach would be to cut the middle piece to final size and the outer pieces oversize. You could use screws in the waste area to pull the pieces together, remove the screws and then use a bandsaw to remove most of the waste and router with a pattern bit to trim the outer pieces to match the center piece.
That said, if you have lots of clamps or heavy weights you should be OK.

[Dylan Wyatt]

I definitely agree with Prashun with gluing only one together at a time. Every time I do a glue up like that where I have already cut out the pieces, I am humbled. It is hard to get everything aligned and clamped when you are by yourself. Also, I never sand the two mating surfaces when gluing, I assume when it comes off of the jointer or planer, it is a flat as it can be which will yield the best mating surfaces.

[David Utterback]

I agree that sanding is not needed if the pieces are clean and nearly flat. I am concerned that squeeze out will be a problem after assembly and that sanding needs will be reduced if it is completely removed with water at time of assembly. End grain absorption would be especially problematic. Good luck!

[Lee Schierer]

For the surfaces that will end up interior to the finished piece, you can use a paint scraper to remove the squeeze out. Unless the wood is rough, I would avoid sanding the pieces where they will be glued, there is no need for strong joints and you run the risk of making the surfaces uneven which will produce voids.

[Mel Fulks]

Thick maple will sometime open up just a little around the edges. I've seen it on bar rails, so when I made a large
round rail (plan view) " smoo shaped "rail for a country club bar I routed about an 1/8th off before gluing the two layers ,leaving original
planed surface about 1 and 1/4 inches. Your piece won't fall apart ,or open up. The 3/4 pieces will be fine without the routing

[lowell holmes]

You should have one of these.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E211US739G0&p=card+scraper+woodworking

[Jim Becker]

No way would I sand to 220 for a glue surface. 80-100 is fine for leveling...you want some "tooth" there...but otherwise, just glue it.

[nicholas mitchell]

Agreed. Wouldn’t sand at all personally.

[John Rice]

That you and everyone else for all the advice. Glueing up before cutting was not an option for me. My jet 14” bandsaw struggled cutting just the 1.5” hard maple due to the small curves in the design.

[J.R. Rutter]

I would place another locating dowel towards the back. Through drill the center layer, then use it as a drill guide for the outer layers without drilling all the way through. It will help keep things from moving around too much once the glue is on and the clamping starts.

[Doug Garson]

I would place another locating dowel towards the back. Through drill the center layer, then use it as a drill guide for the outer layers without drilling all the way through. It will help keep things from moving around too much once the glue is on and the clamping starts.
Excellent idea.

[Tom Bender]

I think what Mel is getting at is the relief you see in hardwood flooring to keep it from rocking. You could get this effect by sawing out the center of the center sheet. Leave about 3/4" all the way around. Hide the entrance cut in the mouth or tail.

I would not use Titebond, it turns bright yellow. This will really show on Maple. Elmer's white glue is a better choice. Of course it will depend on the final finish. Experiment. Best result is if there is no squeeze out. This will not require much strength so a little glue a ways back from the edge will suffice.

[Prashun Patel]

I didn't think about that. Tom's right. I made a maple chair with glued laminations, and used TBII. The seams, several months later, radiated the color of the glue - which presented as an orange. It wasn't altogether objectionable, but was unintended. So, I revise my suggestion to use TB...

[Jerry Olexa]

Agree, no need to SAND....And I would use TB not 2....CLamping is essential on this too

[Robert Hazelwood]

I would follow JR's advice about a second locating dowel. Doing a face lamination like this is difficult because the pieces will become extremely slippery once glue is applied. It's nice not to have to worry about keeping those aligned while trying to clamp everything.

I think with this design you want to try to avoid squeeze out as much as possible b/c it will be difficult to clean up. So be very sparing with the glue- I'd paint it on with a small brush, getting an even but thin coat and stay maybe 3/4" away from the edge.

Check the flatness before glue up. Even if they were jointed perfectly, after a while they may have cupped a bit. If this creates any gaps around the edges, see if light pressure will close it. If it requires moderate or heavy pressure I'd want to identify the convex faces and flatten them. I'd use a handplane, but a small sanding block would work. I'd use a hard sanding block, and stay away from the edges. Just remove material from the center area. Do this until the gaps are gone or can at least be closed with gentle pressure.

Another precaution you could take is to apply a coat or two of finish (shellac is easy and quick) to the edges prior to glueup. This will keep squeeze out from absorbing into the wood very much, reducing the amount of cleanup required.

Edit: Don't be stingy with clamps. There's a lot of surface area and it requires a lot of evenly distributed pressure to get a good glue joint. Ideally you'd want clamps every 4-6" or so, along the length and across the width.

[Dave VanDewerker]

If you are worried about glue lines showing, you might try this Aleene's Turbo Tacky Glue. Dries clear (http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2020_03_19_archive.html).

[Mel Fulks]

Gotta disagree on the white glue. It moves a lot. Glue several small blocks together and sand edges flush. In a few days,
or less there will be some shift at edges. The non shifting of yellow glue is what made it catch on so fast. White glue still
has some good handy qualities , one is its gummyness . That lets it stick to metal ,makes for easier repair of sheet rock
corner bead for those of us with no skill in that trade.

[lowell holmes]

I have a thickness planer and if needed I would make skim cuts prior to glue up. It might be a good excuse to SWMBO about why you need one.
I did not buy the most expensive one. I have a wooden table for it and I cover it with the box it came in. It is Dewalt from Lowes.

[David Utterback]

If you are reluctant to do another dowel, you could drive a small nail somewhere on the outer panel inside surface and cut them near the surface. The nails plus the existing dowel with help minimize lateral slipping. I also agree with the advice to seal the edges prior to glue up.

[tom lucas]

If your bandsaw is struggling cut that material, you need a new/different blade.

[J.R. Rutter]

If you are reluctant to do another dowel, you could drive a small nail somewhere on the outer panel inside surface and cut them near the surface. The nails plus the existing dowel with help minimize lateral slipping. I also agree with the advice to seal the edges prior to glue up.

Good point! Another old patternmaker's tip is to use a few grains of sand to keep the surfaces from slipping.

[Jim Becker]

Good point! Another old patternmaker's tip is to use a few grains of sand to keep the surfaces from slipping.

Salt. Safer than sand. :)