which VFD (and what else?) needed for Delta DJ 20 jointer

[Bob Riefer]

Hi!
New-to-me Delta DJ 20 (37-350) 8" jointer is presently setup with a 3 phase motor, starter, and switch... which I can't power without some adjustments. It's a 1997 machine that is in great condition, and very flat tables (checked with precision straight edge and feeler gauges). Just need to figure out powerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

My research so far tells me that it may be more cost effective (and less surgery to the tool) to use a VFD, which is a new topic to me entirely. I've been trying to learn all day about this, and have reached the "will someone please just tell me the answer" stage. :-)

The motor plate details:

Delta motor model: 66-044
HP: 1.5
Volts: 200
Hz: 60
Service factor: 1.15
Insul. Class: B3
Time Rating: Cont.
Design Letter: B
RPM: 3450
Amps: 5.8
Ph: 3
Enc: TEFC
Frame: 56-65
Max Ambient: 40 degrees Celsius
Type: TS
RVA Code Letter: K


My simple brain says to just buy something like this $100 seemingly everything I need option (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DKJWM62/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza) and "go for it" but I'm lost in the details, in over my head, and humbly hoping the brilliant folks here can help me make a wise decision (and ideally a cost-sensible price point).

edit: in your replies, please (correctly) assume that I need even the most obvious pieces of this explained... VERY much appreciated!

[Matt Day]

The Fm-50 has been the default reply in this case for decades, but it has been discontinued. I found myself needing another one (I have 5 FM-50’s) for my second Unisaw and had to find a substitute. I actually bought the one you listed, but returned it and bought this cheaper one that has more functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/LAPOND-Performance-Inverter-Variable-Frequency/dp/B07T96TG9F?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1&psc=1

Tiny little sucker and works great, so far. I just got it last week and don’t have the saw up and running yet besides wiring the motor and testing the VFD and belt tension and such.

[Bob Riefer]

Ahhhh thank you Matt!

Can I beg for you to help me visualize the wiring?

Currently:

Motor wired first to the "starter panel" (mounted on side of cabinet), switch is also wired to starter panel, starter panel wired to power cord that would plug into the wall.


End goal (I think?):

Motor still wired to "starter panel" same as today?, VFD fits in someplace?, switch still wired as it is now?, New cord (gauge?) to 20 amp receptacle (2-pole dedicated breaker)

[Charles Taylor]

End goal: Motor wired directly to the 3-phase output of the VFD, switch wired to the appropriate low-voltage connections of the VFD, new single-phase 240V cord from the VFD to outlet. The original starter will no longer be used. The manual for the VFD you choose will provide specifics on wiring and programming.

(FM50 owner here)

[Bob Riefer]

You guys are awesome. A less-than-$100 fix!!!!

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!

[Darcy Warner]

Buy a Fuji, more money, but a great warranty with excellent support (from wolf automation)

[Bill Dufour]

That first linked one the fan runs 100% of the time when plugged in. You can use your existing switches for low voltage control of the vfd. Most likely ad the vfd to right end or back side of cabinet externally to the base. Slim chance you can gut the existing switch gear and put the vfd inside that box. It will need some cooling airflow.
Try it using the vfd onboard switches at first then decide if you want to add other, easier to reach, switches latter. You could mount more switches up high or at the left end as well.
Probably do not use any deceleration forces, just let it coast down. 3 seconds accelerate and 3 seconds deceleration are the recommended times for many tools. Longer times reduce stress on the motor and moving parts.
Bill D

[Bill Dufour]

On my lathe the vfd fan is on all the time so I wired a contactor to supply power to the vfd and a pilot light. I turn the motor on and off with the vfd. When I am done I turn the contactor off so the fan goes off for the night. I have one "on" switch and three "off" switches for the one vfd. I suppose I could use the maste off switch if I had to. So I really have four "off" switches.
Bil lD

[Matt Day]

The fan on the one I linked to does not run continuously. It shuts off in about 3 seconds after the frequency hits 0.

One of the reasons I returned the other one.

[Bob Riefer]

Good clarification matt, thanks again!

[Matt Day]

No problem, I was pretty happy I found the one I got after searching ebay and amazon for an FM50 substitute. I didn’t want to spend the money on a higher end one and also didn’t want the knock off ebay stuff, and wanted to try a middle of the road one. Fingers crossed this one holds up.

It also supports a breaking resistor, not that an 8” jointer would need one.

[Dan Coker]

Would he be able to use the machines stock switch if he used a static phase converter instead of a VFD? It has been my understanding that with a static phase converter you can use the stock switch on any machine as long as it is a 220v switch but not (obviously) if it is a 440v switch.

[Curt Harms]

Would he be able to use the machines stock switch if he used a static phase converter instead of a VFD? It has been my understanding that with a static phase converter you can use the stock switch on any machine as long as it is a 220v switch but not (obviously) if it is a 440v switch.

I would think he may be able to use the stock switch with the VFD depending on how it's wired. If the switch is a simple on/off mechanical switch, there will likely be a couple terminals on the VFD that override the on/off functions integral to the VFD. My Delta drill press is set up like that. If the switch on the DJ20 is more complex then I don't know if it could be repurposed or not. A static phase converter would be a thought though, a jointer doesn't really need variable speed or reverse. A concern would be loss of power. Do static phase converters reduce the output of 3 phase motors? I thought they did, by 1/3 or something but i may be wrong. Plus the linked VFD must be about the same $$ as a static phase converter.

[Matt Day]

I feel like static phase converters are a thing of the past since the price of a VFD has dropped so much. VFD’s give full power, adjustable accel decel time, speed control, no loss of power... all kinds of benefits over a SPC, though not all those benefits are really applicable to a jointer.

A SPC looses 1/3 the power. Not worth it when a simple light switch can be used in place of the stock switch. I prefer mushroom emergency switches though.

[Charles Taylor]

I would think he may be able to use the stock switch with the VFD depending on how it's wired. If the switch is a simple on/off mechanical switch, there will likely be a couple terminals on the VFD that override the on/off functions integral to the VFD. My Delta drill press is set up like that. If the switch on the DJ20 is more complex then I don't know if it could be repurposed or not.

The wiring diagram on the inside of the starter cover in the photos above indicate that the stock switch (shown as "control station" in the diagram) can be easily wired to a VFD. It's a straightforward pair of NO/NC momentary contacts.

[Bill Dufour]

Forgot to add lockout reverse on the vfd. A jointer is never run in reverse.
Bill D

[Bob Riefer]

Thanks again guys! Parts are arriving in mail today and I’ll be working on it over the weekend. I’ll post my progress and any additional questions

[Dan Coker]

If it were me I would get a 3HP to 5HP static phase converter and be done with it. Yes you do loose 1/3 of the horse power but on a jointer that would most likely never be an issue. I have a VFD on my 7.5hp Lobo shaper and strongly dislike it. It came with the machine when I bought it used. To turn it on I have to go to a lot of trouble switching through the menus. I honestly don’t even feel comfortable messing with it and plan to switch to a static phase converter soon. I like being able to use the stock switch and just punch it and go. I am sure that if I looked up the manual on my VFD I could figure out how to operate it better but for now I don’t have time and still yet prefer the simplicity of a static phase converter. I have static phase converters on my Delta UniSaw and my up cut saw and have never felt the need for that 1/3 power loss that is often quoted.

[Matt Day]

You must be the only guy still using a statics. You’ve got a real odd ball VFD too.

All my VFD’s are ready to go, just hit the remote switch and it’s on like donkey Kong.

I’ll happily keep that 1/3 power. And on a jointer, yes that 1/3 power can definitely be an issue, especially with more people using helical heads which require more hp.

[Bob Riefer]

OK, here we go! Got the electrical receptacle done yesterday, and have the male side of the new power cord ready to go. Time to wire the other side.

Previous page, last post, Charles Taylor mentioned being able to wire the VFD to the existing starter (at least I think that's what he was saying).

To me, this means that the motor and switch wiring would be left untouched, and that the VFD would be basically inserted as an "in between" from incoming power into the starter panel.

1) Here's my attempt to translate... do I have it right? (also inserting the starter panel and VFD diagrams)

2) If yes, then I think once I set the settings on the VFD, operation thereafter would be simply pressing the jointer's existing on or off button. Yes?

3) And lastly... I'm thinking of installing the VFD inside the jointer cabinet to protect it. I have very good dust collection on the jointer (modified to 6" port, added a top to the chute, cutter head and chute are basically sealed from rest of cabinet) so it seems like a nice safe place for it, and I won't need to access it very often. Thoughts?

427851427852427854

[Charles Taylor]

OK, here we go! Got the electrical receptacle done yesterday, and have the male side of the new power cord ready to go. Time to wire the other side.

Previous page, last post, Charles Taylor mentioned being able to wire the VFD to the existing starter (at least I think that's what he was saying).

To me, this means that the motor and switch wiring would be left untouched, and that the VFD would be basically inserted as an "in between" from incoming power into the starter panel.

1) Here's my attempt to translate... do I have it right? (also inserting the starter panel and VFD diagrams)

2) If yes, then I think once I set the settings on the VFD, operation thereafter would be simply pressing the jointer's existing on or off button. Yes?

3) And lastly... I'm thinking of installing the VFD inside the jointer cabinet to protect it. I have very good dust collection on the jointer (modified to 6" port, added a top to the chute, cutter head and chute are basically sealed from rest of cabinet) so it seems like a nice safe place for it, and I won't need to access it very often. Thoughts?

427851427852427854



Prretty close. It looks like you've got the high-voltage plan down, but maybe not the low-voltage connections from the power switch.

Just to reiterate/clarify, the VFD replaces the function of the starter. The starter will no longer be connected to anything: not power, not the switch.

I think you've got the following two items correct:

a) Main power (single phase) is connected directly to the VFD.

b) The three phase power leads from the motor are disconnected from the starter and connected instead to the output of the VFD.


I don't see a line in your checklist on what to do with the wiring from the switch.

c) The wiring from the switch, aka control station, is disconnected from the starter and connected instead to low-voltage terminals of the VFD. The page from the VFD manual that you showed doesn't cover this. There should be another illustration in the manual showing which low-voltage terminals to use. And of course there may be some settings in the programming to ensure the VFD interprets the low-voltage connections correctly.

[Bob Riefer]

Checking manual now... more in a minute

[Bob Riefer]

This is somewhat "Greek" to me, but your help is really appreciated and I'm learning :-)

Here's the two pages of "typical" system connections, but I'm not sure which portion would pertain to the switch. Does this help?

[Matt Day]

Wiring is pretty simple once you see it. All black wires are from the motor, in any order. Red and black are the 220 single phase. That’s it! I didn’t change programming but accel and decel time, and rotation direction. I need to look into whether it’s running at 50 or 60hz though.
All pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

[Bob Riefer]

Thanks Matt... This part, we got. :-) Wondering about the switch wiring (I'd like to keep the existing DJ20 on/off switch) as the final step in the equation... Do you have a pic of that?

[Bob Riefer]

Actually, I found an old thread (ironically where Matt was trying to figure out this same topic of the switch) and it seems the D11 (forward run), D12 (forward jog), D13 (fault reset) etc... those might be where a switch is connected? (oh, and one of those terminals is also GRND where I'm presuming the ground goes).

[Rollie Meyers]

One little note, the OEM motor is rated for 200V, intended for 208V supply, the default setting for most VFD's is 230V, and 240V is excessive for 208V motors, read through the manual to see if the output voltage can be adjusted,I did the same thing for a couple of 200V 3Ø Rockwell machines that were former school machines.

[Bob Riefer]

Thanks! Properly programming the vfd will be next step.


Anyone know which terminals I should use (diagram above) for the switch? I have 4 wires from switch, b,w,r,ground

[Bob Riefer]

I guess I'll just randomly try a couple terminals? Can't find a clear answer

[Bob Riefer]

The good news is that the vfd connection allows me to power up the jointer and it runs nice and smooth. My random
attempts to get the switch working didn’t work. I have no idea how to connect them still

[Charles Taylor]

Since I don't have experience with that VFD and can't find a manual online, I don't have a clear answer. I suspect it depends on how the terminals DI1-DI4 can be programmed.

A TECO FM50 wired with a switch, or control station, like yours can be done like this:
427926

The challenge is to figure out how to translate the terminal assignments and programming to yours. I don't have enough information to do that.

[Andy D Jones]

Some VFDs are not designed to handle the sudden interruption (or contact) of a switch opening (or closing) in the three phase wiring between the VFD and the motor.

Check the manual for your VFD to determine if it is allowable to put a power switch between your VFD and the motor.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Ron Selzer]

wire a maintained switch to common and DI-1
program the VFD to accept remote start
when switch is made then VFD will start

[Bill Dufour]

Wire a run switch between Common and D-11. It think this has to be a maintained on switch.
The stop switch is Common to D-13. It is unusual in that it is normally open and must be held closed to maintain power off. Perhaps run it through the TC/TA relay?
If you like the existing switches maybe they are standard 22mm switches and they can be replaced while using the existing coverplate. Contact blocks on the switches can be changed over as needed.
You will probbaly have to program in the FVD to enable the remote switches
Bil lD.

[Darcy Warner]

These kinds of issues is why I reccomend a fuji from wolf automation. All needed info is either in the manual or available as a pdf from their site.

You will have to enable a function that allows the vfd to be switched on from an external source and not the keypad

[Bob Riefer]

Yikes. You guys are speaking a language I don’t speak. I do appreciate your efforts! :)
Seems like it’s not easily accomplished. I’m hoping my email to the vendor gives a clearer path.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Bob, to turn the VFD on/off using a "remote" switch, you just need to short terminal DI1 to COM. In the page "2.2.1 Typical System Connection" wiring diagram, it shows this switch labeled "Forward Run". If you connect a standard switch (like a household light switch) to those terminals, it should turn the motor on/off when you flip the switch on/off.

Perhaps this is obvious, but it's important to note that this switch is only controlling a low-voltage signal to tell the VFD what to do. It's not switching either the 240V input or the 3phase output, directly.

I would recommend getting a regular SPST switch (like a household light switch) and hooking it up and making sure it works before you get into the trouble of figuring out how to hook up the buttons from the DJ-20 (because the DJ-20 buttons are momentary, there is some additional complexity to making it work).

If you hook up the light switch and it doesn't work, I believe the 2.2.1 figure is saying that you need to adjust menu parameter F4-00 to be "1" to enable the external "Forward Run" input. By default, it may not be enabled.


Once you get that working with a simple switch, here's how to wire up the pushbuttons. Note that I "flipped" the start/stop button positions left/right from your starter wiring diagram to make the wiring connections less messy on paper :)
428003

[Bob Riefer]

Awesome, thank you for this! I have a light switch that I can use and will give this a test.

Also, from Charle's post #31 above... my initial tests, the motor was indeed running backwards and had read someplace that switching the wires could help. That diagram confirms that.

Lastly, I did get a reply from the vendor that they will send me some info on this too... so hopefully that helps.

Almost there!

[Bill Dufour]

There is probably a reverse button on the VFD. Just press it once and the motor will run the correct direction from then on. No need to rewire. But having the VFD in reverse all the time may show something on the display that bothers you, like REV in small letters.
To reverse any three phase motor remove two power wires and reconnect them in reverse. Just do not use the ground wires.
PS: power wires can be any color except white, green or "natural gray"? In North America normally black, red or blue are used. Europe and Asia can use yellow or brown for ground, often striped.
Bill D.

[Bill Dufour]

Bob, to turn the VFD on/off using a "remote" switch, you just need to short terminal DI1 to COM. In the page "2.2.1 Typical System Connection" wiring diagram, it shows this switch labeled "Forward Run". If you connect a standard switch (like a household light switch) to those terminals, it should turn the motor on/off when you flip the switch on/off.

Perhaps this is obvious, but it's important to note that this switch is only controlling a low-voltage signal to tell the VFD what to do. It's not switching either the 240V input or the 3phase output, directly.

I would recommend getting a regular SPST switch (like a household light switch) and hooking it up and making sure it works before you get into the trouble of figuring out how to hook up the buttons from the DJ-20 (because the DJ-20 buttons are momentary, there is some additional complexity to making it work).

If you hook up the light switch and it doesn't work, I believe the 2.2.1 figure is saying that you need to adjust menu parameter F4-00 to be "1" to enable the external "Forward Run" input. By default, it may not be enabled.


Once you get that working with a simple switch, here's how to wire up the pushbuttons. Note that I "flipped" the start/stop button positions left/right from your starter wiring diagram to make the wiring connections less messy on paper :)
428003


Thanks for this diagram. My VFD is weird I have to use maintained off stop switches. With this diagram I can rewire and use momentary switches and link the footbrake switch in as well.
Bil lD

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks for this diagram. My VFD is weird I have to use maintained off stop switches. With this diagram I can rewire and use momentary switches and link the footbrake switch in as well.
Bil lD

Cool! Just to explain how it works for anyone curious:
When you press the momentary "Start" button, the VFD turns on and closes the "relay" contacts. The relay contacts are in series with the normally-closed momentary "stop" button, and form a second, parallel path with the "start" button. Thus, once you release the "start" button, the relay is energized and this second path is now active. If you press the momentary normally-closed "stop" button, you interrupt that second path, and the VFD shuts off.

Any additional momentary "start" buttons can be placed in parallel with the existing "start" button. Any additional momentary (or latching) "stop" buttons can be placed in series with the existing "stop" button.

[Bill Dufour]

My lathe has three stop switches and a neutral position between forward and reverse so it should have four switches to stop it. Right now it stops if I step on the footbrake but it will restart if I lift my foot without turning off one of the switches.
Bil lD

[Bob Riefer]

Here’s what the vendor had to say. Can you help me translate?

1.Wiring,Recommend to connect the 2 normal open(N.O.)button switch to the control terminals,
short circuit DI1 and COM terminal,DI1 used as Forward run control terminal.
short circuit DI2 and COM terminal,DI2 used as Forward run control terminal.
2.Set F4-00=1,F4-01=8,F0-02=1
Please let me know if works

[Dan Friedrichs]

Well, that's a bit confusing. I think their intent was to say the same as I said: Have the switch connect (short) DI1 and COM, and set menu parameter F4-00 to "1" (to enable that remote input)

[Ron Selzer]

Here’s what the vendor had to say. Can you help me translate?

1.Wiring,Recommend to connect the 2 normal open(N.O.)button switch to the control terminals,
short circuit DI1 and COM terminal,DI1 used as Forward run control terminal.
short circuit DI2 and COM terminal,DI2 used as Forward run control terminal.
2.Set F4-00=1,F4-01=8,F0-02=1
Please let me know if works


ok change short circuit to wire a maintained normally open switch to, example

1- wire your light switch to D1 and common ( has to be a switch which holds itself in or wired as Dan posted showing wired thru the relay)
2- program parameter F4-00 to 1 for an external source to turn the VFD on

disregard the rest or post pictures of the parameter section of the manual or give us the online address to the book, so we can help some more
good luck
Ron

[Bob Riefer]

Got it running forward, and light switch works! Other switch will not. Ok to just stick with the light switch?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Yep, nothing wrong with the lightswitch.

[Bob Riefer]

Awesome. You guys really have been so helpful and patient. Much appreciated

Last question for now:
The main screen says “50”. Should I set that to “60”?

[Ron Selzer]

if the 50 is referring to the Hertz then yes

[Matt Day]

If you have the remote switch turned on, likely the on/off button at the VFD will be disabled. Stick with the light switch, or as I’ve said emergency stop/mushroom switch works good too and is a little safer.

I started looking into changing the frequency to 60 but haven’t gotten there yet.

How did you wire the light switch?

[Bob Riefer]

To recap... I have a 3-phase DJ20 jointer and purchased this specific VFD (https://www.amazon.com/LAPOND-Performance-Inverter-Variable-Frequency/dp/B07T96TG9F?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1&psc=1) (Lapond ST100S1.5B which is basically suitable for < 1.5 hp motor like I have) in order to be able to power it from 20 amp receptacle/220 power/single phase. The VFD cost $86 at the time of this post.

Here's the wiring / setup that I have now:

Inside the jointer cabinet, opposite side from the wood chip chute, I installed a wood block that the VFD now hangs from. I have blocked the top side of the wood chips chute and am connected to 3hp dust collector via a 6" duct, so my hope is that the area where the VFD is installed will stay "clean" (enough), and I think ventilation is plenty. Materials for this step were all shop scraps. $0.

20 amp receptacle (2-pole breaker, 220 power) connects to the jointer through 12-3 wire. I have the 2 hots wired to L1 and L2 on the VFD (and ground to ground on the VFD). For this power cord, I purchased a 12/3 heavy duty extension cord and added my own plug end to match wall receptacle. $30 for extension cord and male plug.

The 3-phase motor wire has the three non-ground wires connected to the U, V, W terminals on the VFD (and ground to ground). Initially, my machine was running in reverse, so I swapped two of those non-ground wires (in my case, I swapped red and black) and now it runs forward.

For the light switch (which I had in my inventory already from a past project, $0), I used some light gauge wire (on-hand wire that I found to be small enough to fit in the tiny terminal ports on the VFD) and connected one wire to each light switch terminal (and one to ground on the light switch). The other end of one of those wires went into the VFD terminal DI1, and the other wire was connected to COM on the VFD (and lastly, ground to ground).

Programming the VFD...
- When you hit the "program" button, the screen will flash which menu you are in (e.g. F4, F0, etc.)
- Using the + and - keys you can advance to other menus (e.g. F4 + will take you to F5 etc.)
- Hitting ENT (probably short for "enter") then takes you into the menu where you can navigate to sub menus in the same manner
- The manual takes some time to learn and understand, but basically gives you things that you can set within each sub menu

In this case, the most important one is so set the VFD to recognize that you're using a switch...
'- Menu/sub-menu = F4-00 which controls the DI1 terminal where the switch is connected. You want to set this to a value of 1 (which means switching this terminal will make the motor "forward run")


Other things to set..
- Later today, I will set the Hz setting to 60 Hz (vs. the default 50), and there are a few other menu areas where you can tell the VFD about your motor (such as RPMs and voltage etc.).... it seems like setting these could only be helpful, so I'll take the time to do that - all information that is available on the motor plate.

- And, I think that one parameter that can be adjusted is how fast the motor starts up. Mine is starting up really slow now (like over 20 seconds) so I'm going to try to bring that down to something more reasonable (thinking like 5 seconds would be good for motor and not obnoxiously slow for me waiting to do work).


I'll file this success under the "It takes a village" folder of my personal learning curve. As usual, the knowledgeable, patient, and helpful crew here has helped a fellow woodworker along the path. Hopefully this recap post is found by others in the future to help their learning curve too.

[Ron Selzer]

I have been successful in not setting the motor parameters in the past, however I had one recently that had to have all the numbers set correctly to get over 35% speed.
5 seconds for ramp up and ramp down on a jointer sounds good, I use 60-300 seconds on larger fans and pumps
sounds like you have it all figured out
good luck
Ron

[Bob Riefer]

Thanks Ron! The default RPM's on this VFD appears to be 1/2 what the motor spec RPMs states, so that got me to thinking it's worth adjusting as many of those specs as possible. But, that's just me thinking it through (not based on any true/deep understanding of VFDs).

I'm hoping my rudimentary / deliberate style of explaining the details (post 51 above) will help others. I had a lot of translating and thinking and watching videos to get to the point where I could explain it like that - may be more accessible to other newbies.

[Matt Day]

Bob - thanks for the detailed reply!

[Bill Dufour]

Does the motor or vfd make a high pitched whine when running or coming up to speed? If not nothing to worry about.
How long does it take to coast down to a stop(also 20 seconds?).
Leave the machine running and turn on a radio and tv and make sure there is no interference.
Bill D

[Bob Riefer]

Does the motor or vfd make a high pitched whine when running or coming up to speed? If not nothing to worry about.
How long does it take to coast down to a stop(also 20 seconds?).
Leave the machine running and turn on a radio and tv and make sure there is no interference.
Bill D


The VFD has a nice quiet cooling fan that runs during operation (and shuts off automatically about 3 seconds after use), no odd sounds of any sort.

Yes, jointer coasting to stop in about 20 seconds as well. That doesn't bother me as much as the start up.

Radio/TV test didn't produce anything odd.

[Matt Day]

You can likely stop the cutterhead in 2 seconds with no harm to anything. And it’s not exactly coasting to a stop. If it takes 20 seconds it’s because it’s programmed to do that.

[Bob Riefer]

The drive belt was “slapping” a little momentarily during start up at 3 seconds so I made it 5 seconds which solved it. Installing new knives and then I’m done!

[Bob Riefer]

For good measure, and a good laugh...

I was so thrilled to have made it over this mountain.

All I needed to do was swap out the knives and get back to woodworking.

Setup, ready to do the task. Not particularly looking forward to it, but also not dreading it either. Just takes some patience.

ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHH!

My damn set of metric wrenches are too thick to fit into the slot in the cutter head to loosen the bolts that hold the knives in.

There's "Murphy's Law", and now there's "Riefer's Law" I guess.

Hopefully my Amazon order gets to me before the world shuts down even more.

LOL

[Matt Day]

Could always grind them a bit to thin them down. I’ve done that a number of times, though not to my primary set of wrenches. Most of us have accumulated all kinds of extras that are good to sacrifice to these kinds of jobs.

[Matt Day]

One critical programming step, which took me most of today to figure out, was F0-02=1. That function tells the vfd to look for the switch. That’s stated 2 pages ago but easy to overlook. For future reference.

[Matt Day]

Lastly, to set the frequency to 60hz, there are 3 F0 functions that need to be set to 60. Or maybe just 1, but I set them all to 60 and got it to work.

[Bob Riefer]

ARGH

I had cleared out my shop of other honey-do projects and was ready to use the jointer for some real woodworking. Taking small cuts (1/32nd) and getting nice results.

Then...

Jointer cuts out....

Pull the back panel off, and it tells me "ERR11" which the manual says is "motor overload" with the following options:
1. F9-01 (motor overload protection gain) is set improperly, set F9-01 correctly
2. Load is too heavy or locked rotor occurs on motor, reduce load or check motor and mechanical connections
3. Control board is abnormal, contact the agent to replace

I don't think it's #3 as it is brand new and was working fine.

I don't think it's #2 as the motor was running like butter. Smooth and powerful.

As for #1, I can't find F9-01 in the manual anywhere, so I'm unsure what setting I would adjust to.

Later in the manual, it suggests "auto-tuning" if the AC drive detects over-current and over-voltage frequently... I can see steps on how to do that auto tuning I think, but I'm wondering if I should try to adjust F9-01 first...

Any ideas?

[Bob Riefer]

I went through every parameter and set them as follows, and was able to work for 2 hours without a recurrence of the issue... not sure which setting did it??

I think these all pertain to the VFD recognizing that I have a light switch in place:

F0-01 motor 1 control set to 2 "V/F control (not sure why, this was in there from before)
F0-02 set to 1 "terminal IO control" (tells the VFD to use the switch I understand it)
F4-00 set to 1 which makes terminal DI1 "forward run" (this is the terminal I have my switch wired to... so switch on = forward run)


Here's a bunch of places where I found 50 hz as the setting, but seems like all should be 60 hz (and maybe this was the problem?)

F0-10 max frequency set to 60 Hz (was previously 50... maybe the issue?)
F0-12 frequency reference upper limit set to 60 hz too (was also previously 50)
F1-04 rated motor frequency set to 60 hz (is that right? I just figured all hz settings should match at 60)


These are settings I attempted to match to the motor plate:

F1-01 rated motor power set to 1.2 kw (which is the closest I could get for 1.5 hp motor which would be 1.12 kw)
F1-02 rated motor voltage set to 200 to match motor plate (this previously was set as 220)
F1-03 rated motor current set to 5.8 amps (because that's the only thing on the motor plate that was in amps I figured it would go here?)
F1-05 rated motor speed set to 3450 rpm to match motor plate


And this one I just randomly found and was able to eliminate belt "slap" by having the motor start slowly

F0-17 acceleration time set to 5 seconds