Pencil

[ken hatch]

Most of the "markers" I use in the shop have a "yes but" factor, pen or pencil there is something that is a PITA. I have found a mechanical pencil that while it doesn't address all the "yes buts" comes pretty damn close.

The Zebra Del Guard Mechanical Pencil with a 0.5mm lead is the best all around marker I've found. You can find them on Amazon.

427466
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M69O5YJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The lead is thin enough to mark inside a knife line but because of the way it is supported will not break as easily as other 0.5mm pencil leads.

I just finished marking out a small box, I broke the lead three times which if you have used a 0.5mm mechanical pencil is pretty amazing.

BTW, the reason I'm marking out a small box is I'm finally getting around to making MsBubba's dining room table. My associated trip to the wood store was pretty disappointing. There were not a lot of 8/4 wood on the racks and what was there was pretty grim or over $8 USD a board foot. The exception was Alder both clear and knotty.

I've never worked with Alder so I bought a small 4/4 board to play with, to see how it works and takes finish. I thought "self, what better way to test wood than make something out of it". I haven't made a small box in awhile so might as well. Kinda a long way around to a mechanical pencil, working Alder, and making a table for MsBubba but that's life, it is almost never linear.

BTW, that is a piece of the Alder under the pencil.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

Alder grows in my yard. Some of it and mill ends from one of the local mills are used for firewood. Some of my projects have been made from pieces pulled out of the firewood pile:

427467

Sometimes even through the rough surface some interesting character will reveal itself.

Alder's softness makes it easy to work.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Alder grows in my yard. Some of it and mill ends from one of the local mills are used for firewood. Some of my projects have been made from pieces pulled out of the firewood pile:

427467

Sometimes even through the rough surface some interesting character will reveal itself.

Alder's softness makes it easy to work.

jtk

Jim,

Thanks for the information. The table base may be Alder and I expect some other wood for the slab. that's my thinking currently. Plans are for a trestle base with a wedged stretcher and two slabs, one small and one for more than four folks at a time.

ken

[Ralph Boumenot]

I used Pentel mechanical pencils for years and finally gave up on them. Not because of the lead breaking but it was so hard to refill them and have the lead advance. The lead would clog the fingers that advance the lead. I've started using #2 and #3 lead wood pencils and so far so good. No where near the breakage of the Pentel but they don't mark inside of a knife line as well.

[Phil Mueller]

You got me thinking about when I actually use a pencil. For the most part, a #2 for rough dimensions (regular for most woods, or a white artist pencil for dark woods). I use a .5 mm mechanical pencil for darkening knife lines, and a .3 mm mechanical pencil for marking cut lines for small pieces like stringing or inlays. And of course, I have a handful of all because I can only find one at any given time. I have pretty much moved to knifing final dimension lines, dovetails, etc.

Regarding the dinning room table, I was thinking you might go with splayed legs and holes in the apron. Never know when you need another work surface ;)

[Thomas Wilson]

I use 0.5 mm mechanical pencil for marking in the shop. The lead does break inside the holder and that keeps it from advancing. Plus those little broken pieces of lead can make a mess. I keep a plastic mayo jar on my desk to collect them.

For sketching I like the Palomino Blackwing pencils, either the 602 or the Pearl. You get them at art supply stores,

[Lee Schierer]

I use pentel .5 and .7mm mechanical pencils for marking cut lines. I switched to HB polymer leads because the softer leads give a darker line with less pressure. some of my older Pentel .5 mm pencils have telescoping tips that slide in as you use the lead and prevent breakage.

[ken hatch]

You got me thinking about when I actually use a pencil. For the most part, a #2 for rough dimensions (regular for most woods, or a white artist pencil for dark woods). I use a .5 mm mechanical pencil for darkening knife lines, and a .3 mm mechanical pencil for marking cut lines for small pieces like stringing or inlays. And of course, I have a handful of all because I can only find one at any given time. I have pretty much moved to knifing final dimension lines, dovetails, etc.

Regarding the dinning room table, I was thinking you might go with splayed legs and holes in the apron. Never know when you need another work surface ;)

Phil,

I ran that design by MsBubba. It didn't work:p.

ken

[ken hatch]

I used Pentel mechanical pencils for years and finally gave up on them. Not because of the lead breaking but it was so hard to refill them and have the lead advance. The lead would clog the fingers that advance the lead. I've started using #2 and #3 lead wood pencils and so far so good. No where near the breakage of the Pentel but they don't mark inside of a knife line as well.

You are up early, got OF's disease? That's what I like about a .5mm lead is being able to mark the inside of the knife line.

ken

[Mark Daily]

Most of the "markers" I use in the shop have a "yes but" factor, pen or pencil there is something that is a PITA. I have found a mechanical pencil that while it doesn't address all the "yes buts" comes pretty damn close.

The Zebra Del Guard Mechanical Pencil with a 0.5mm lead is the best all around marker I've found. You can find them on Amazon.

427466
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M69O5YJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The lead is thin enough to mark inside a knife line but because of the way it is supported will not break as easily as other 0.5mm pencil leads.

I just finished marking out a small box, I broke the lead three times which if you have used a 0.5mm mechanical pencil is pretty amazing.

BTW, the reason I'm marking out a small box is I'm finally getting around to making MsBubba's dining room table. My associated trip to the wood store was pretty disappointing. There were not a lot of 8/4 wood on the racks and what was there was pretty grim or over $8 USD a board foot. The exception was Alder both clear and knotty.

I've never worked with Alder so I bought a small 4/4 board to play with, to see how it works and takes finish. I thought "self, what better way to test wood than make something out of it". I haven't made a small box in awhile so might as well. Kinda a long way around to a mechanical pencil, working Alder, and making a table for MsBubba but that's life, it is almost never linear.

BTW, that is a piece of the Alder under the pencil.

ken

Alder is a great wood for furniture making. Easy on your tools and takes finish well although it can blotch similar to cherry. In my “furniture” album pics 5-7 show an alder cabinet I built.

[mike stenson]

Alder is a great wood for furniture making. Easy on your tools and takes finish well although it can blotch similar to cherry. In my “furniture” album pics 5-7 show an alder cabinet I built.

Yep! It's what I used for the trestle base of my workbench. It's wonderful to work with.

[ken hatch]

Alder is a great wood for furniture making. Easy on your tools and takes finish well although it can blotch similar to cherry. In my “furniture” album pics 5-7 show an alder cabinet I built.


Yep! It's what I used for the trestle base of my workbench. It's wonderful to work with.

Thanks guys,

I'm finishing the tail board of a Alder little box. It is easy to saw and chisel, I expect a visit to the wood store will follow.

ken

[George Yetka]

One of my other hobbies is pens/pencils

In the shop I use primarily Palomino Blackwings White/hard Gray/med Black/soft
For roughing I like the pica
For Fine markout I like the Uni Kuru-toga roulette .5mm

[James Pallas]

Most of the time I use regular #2 pencil. I keep a battery operated pencil sharpener close at hand. I do have .05 and .07 mechanical pencils in the tray. When I really get seriously about marking I break out the lead holders and pointers different leads different colors if needed. You can also make very fine lines with a carpenters pencil sharpened to a chisel point.
By the way, Alder is very good to work with. It works easy with sharp tools. A little soft for some applications. Does blotch some. Looks a lot like birch when finished. I would be a little concerned about using it on a horizontal surface wear someone could rest or drag their feet on it.

[Frederick Skelly]

Good tip Ken. Thank you!

[ken hatch]

Most of the time I use regular #2 pencil. I keep a battery operated pencil sharpener close at hand. I do have .05 and .07 mechanical pencils in the tray. When I really get seriously about marking I break out the lead holders and pointers different leads different colors if needed. You can also make very fine lines with a carpenters pencil sharpened to a chisel point.
By the way, Alder is very good to work with. It works easy with sharp tools. A little soft for some applications. Does blotch some. Looks a lot like birch when finished. I would be a little concerned about using it on a horizontal surface wear someone could rest or drag their feet on it.

James,

I'm only going to use Alder for the base, still waiting on MsBubba to bless the slab. BTW, went to the wood store to buy the wood for the base, spent 40 or more minutes picking through the Alder bin for boards that were straight and correct width and didn't pay much attention to anything else. When I checked out the bill was $450 USD, whoa Nelly there ain't that much wood on my cart. Turns out someone had stacked some Hard Maple and White Oak in the Adler bin and only one of the boards I picked was Alder. That was the bad news, the good was all the last rejects I had re-stacked on top and all I had to do was exchange with out looking for good ones. The note was better as well only $120 USD out the door.

ken

[Eric Rathhaus]

I like the Caran de Ache fixpencil, supposedly the first one of the first mechanics pencils. You can get a variety of thicknesses (.7 to 3mm), design supports the lead well, comes with sharpener in the pencil . . .

[James Pallas]

James,

I'm only going to use Alder for the base, still waiting on MsBubba to bless the slab. BTW, went to the wood store to buy the wood for the base, spent 40 or more minutes picking through the Alder bin for boards that were straight and correct width and didn't pay much attention to anything else. When I checked out the bill was $450 USD, whoa Nelly there ain't that much wood on my cart. Turns out someone had stacked some Hard Maple and White Oak in the Adler bin and only one of the boards I picked was Alder. That was the bad news, the good was all the last rejects I had re-stacked on top and all I had to do was exchange with out looking for good ones. The note was better as well only $120 USD out the door.

ken
I’d bet that 450 puckered you up a bit😳I would guess that that hard maple and white oak disguised as alder looked really good. To bad that one was not checked out as alder. That wood (pun intended) have been a treat. LMAO

[Derek Cohen]

Ken, this is a great pencil. I’ve been using one for about 12 months, even posted that information here as well (this info probably does not register with us all unless really involved). I have both the leads and the lead holder ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Ghx0YWnN/pencil.jpg

The leads work well in other brands, since they have reduced breakability (is there such a word?). The lead holder is great in this regard as it has a built-in shock absorber.

I am not sure where I first heard about them, possibly from Chris Schwartz, who posts such information.

They have been such a success and have replaced the 2mm clutch pencils I had been using for many years. Being only 0.5mm, the ends do not require sharpening, unlike 2mm leads.

It’s always good to pass on helpful jnformation.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ken hatch]

Ken, this is a great pencil. I’ve been using one for about 12 months, even posted that information here as well (this info probably does not register with us all unless really involved). I have both the leads and the lead holder ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Ghx0YWnN/pencil.jpg

The leads work well in other brands, since they have reduced breakability (is there such a word?). The lead holder is great in this regard as it has a built-in shock absorber.

I am not sure where I first heard about them, possibly from Chris Schwartz, who posts such information.

They have been such a success and have replaced the 2mm clutch pencils I had been using for many years. Being only 0.5mm, the ends do not require sharpening, unlike 2mm leads.

It’s always good to pass on helpful jnformation.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I may have found out about them from your post. I know it wouldn't have been something I would have found on my own. If so I apologize for not giving you credit but then I'm old and forgetful :o.

ken

[Derek Cohen]

No apology needed, Ken. I do the same, re-post good information.

Did I tell you how I managed to stay 39 years old the past 31 years? No ... well, when I was 39 I decided to give all my birthdays to my wife, and so I generously did so. She enjoyed a double birthday present each year. Not so much now as she has aged tremendously. I, on the other hand .... :D

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

For most of my pencil work, a #1 (B soft) works fine. My crank sharpener puts a flat point on them. For marking lines from a pin or wheel gauge the point is given a few passes over a piece of 400 sandpaper. Otherwise a carpenter pencil is used that is easy to sharpen to a chisel point to stay in a gauge line.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I like the Caran de Ache fixpencil, supposedly the first one of the first mechanics pencils. You can get a variety of thicknesses (.7 to 3mm), design supports the lead well, comes with sharpener in the pencil . . .

Eric, I've used these for many years ... since my early childhood, in fact ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/Anotsohumblepencil_html_749b2af0.jpg


Now I much prefer the 0.5mm Zebra DelGuard. No sharpening needed.


Jim Koepke; For most of my pencil work, a #1 (B soft) works fine. My crank sharpener puts a flat point on them. For marking lines from a pin or wheel gauge the point is given a few passes over a piece of 400 sandpaper. Otherwise a carpenter pencil is used that is easy to sharpen to a chisel point to stay in a gauge line.


Jim, no sharpening!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Silverson]

I use a similar Zebra but the metal bodied shank, the Zebra M301.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim, no sharpening!

There are many mechanical pencils in my accumulation. There are 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.7mm and a lot of 2mm pencils. For me the good old fashioned wood encased lead works fine even if it occasionally needs a few moments of sharpening.

Different strokes for different folks.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I'm kind of am like Jim, I use #2 wooden pencils. I have a crank pencil sharpener in the shop.

[michael dilday]

I use a Mars® technico 780 2mm and a Pentel .9mm and .5mm lead pencils. Seems like the .9mm is becoming my go to for marking pieces but the .5mm may take it's place soon. Seems like I can get closer to the rule with the .5mm.

[steven c newman]

I knife a line..IF I need a precise line to cut to.....then, so I can SEE that line, I'll go over it with a sharp #2 Yellow pencil....sharpened to a fine point. IF the line doesn't have to been precise, like rough cutting to length....just the old #2 will do.

[Bill Carey]

The Delgaurd is a nice pencil. Nice bit of engineering. I carry that and the Pentel Side FX - the FX has the lead advance on the side and can be advanced without changing the grip on the pencil. I find that to be pretty convenient at times.
428182

[Jim Koepke]

The Delgaurd is a nice pencil. Nice bit of engineering. I carry that and the Pentel Side FX - the FX has the lead advance on the side and can be advanced without changing the grip on the pencil. I find that to be pretty convenient at times.


My first Pentel 0.7mm Side advance pencil was purchased about 20 years ago. Not long ago it seemed to have disappeared. Thinking it was lost for good a pair of new ones was purchased. Candy found it under the car seat. Candy always liked it so now she has one and the spare is next to the computer.

jtk

[Jim Hoti]

i use a soft lead (2B) as it takes less pressure to make a dark line than HB lead I prefer a Rotring 600 for precise marking but do use the Zebra as well for general use