Shop flooring

[Raif Harik]

Hi, I have an ... unorthodox shop. It is essentially 6' X 20' along side my house with an extension of the house roof over it. Currently I have dirt ( sawdust ) floors. I was thinking of putting down something that I could pretend was level. I came across these
https://www.amazon.com/Techno-Earth-Permeable-parking-driveways/dp/B072KFB6Y8/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=plastic+shed+base&qid=1583362400&sr=8-15
Sort of honey comb plastic structures that you can fill with gravel. My shop really only has a lathe, a bench and a collapsible contractors table saw.
Would it be crazy to use this sort of thing? I could build 2x4 floor with 1/2 ply on top, but that seems like a lot of work and would require probably sinking some posts into the ground and leveling everything. Seems Like if I roughly leveled the area, and laid these down, filled, and somehow attach plywood to the top, it might be a lot easier.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Raif

[Jim Becker]

The method you propose, while "unconventional", would certainly allow you to setup things with a surface that's pretty level if you do things carefully and methodically. "Attaching" plywood might be difficult, however. If you want to throw down some pressure treated plywood, make it tongue and groove and glue it together at the seams with polyurethane glue or construction adhesive to create a floating floor. If you choose to use 2x for "floor joists", you'll still want to go with 3/4" plywood. 1/2" isn't going to make you happy even to just walk on it.

[Frank Pratt]

Level the dirt, lay down a bed of sand, level it and then top it off with 24" x 30" concrete sidewalk pavers. They are cheap & durable. I did that in a garden shed in one of the houses I had and it worked very well.

[Tom Bender]

Hi Raif

1/2" plywood on 2x4s is not going to work out. There are other low cost options that will work better. Can you give us a few details?

Where are you and what is the ground like?

What are the problems you are having with your dirt floor?

Do you have 4 walls?

[Bob Riefer]

I think it's awesome that you're still pursuing your woodworking given the unorthodox space scenario that you're facing.

Since it's currently dirt, I'd consider laying down some pieces of 6x6 pressure treated lumber as "sleepers" and then attaching 2x6 pressure treated as your "deck top". You can dig the sleepers in a bit to level them and bring the height of the "deck" down if you need/desire.

I've built outdoor platforms like this over the years and they will last 20+ years unprotected (and longer in a situation like yours where there's a roof covering), are easy to level and build, easy to get materials home (vs. huffing heavy gravel), and pretty cost effective.

Note... I don't believe in "deck boards".. .2 x 6's are so much stronger, less likely to warp, and not much more cost. And it will allow you to space your sleepers farther apart.

An example from our cornhole court at our place:

[Bill Dufour]

Climate?
Bill D

[Raif Harik]

Hi,
Thanks you all for the help.
So I'm in Austin Tx so bloody hot, kind of humid. I have 1 good wall and a crappy fence parallel to it. The ground/dirt is a fair amount of decomposed granite, and our native, worthless black clay soil. The d-granite is pretty well worked into the soil. Somehow the black clay seems to eat it.
I wouldn't say I'm having "trouble" with it, I'm just kind of dissatisfied with it. The whole situation in general actually, but that's a loosing battle :). I guess I just feel that if I had a floor, I could sweep, the ground would be level, I could even bolt my lathe down to reduce some of the vibration and best of all I might be able to convince the cat's that my whole shop is not just some glorious litter box.
Bob Riefer, I am apparently not good enough to view photos on this forum. There's no telling what would happen if I did. But I think I get your idea. You are suggesting running "sleepers" on the 6' axis and then run 2x6 the long way. No plywood. That sounds pretty stable. I also like this idea because, I actually have a good 20 feet more house on either side. Putting up the roof extension is a colossal pain, and the wife is not thrilled with the idea. But I could run the 2x6 out say 10' on either side, and get extra work space, and just make sure that everything is under the roof when I'm done.
I'm open to more ideas, but this is great so far!
Thanks
R

[Jim Becker]

I am apparently not good enough to view photos on this forum.

It has nothing to do with "good enough"...photo viewing, private messaging and the Classifieds are available to Contributors which only requires a $6 donation. Please click on the link labeled "Donate" up at the top of the page to take care of that.

Jim
Forum Moderator

[Bill Dufour]

To view photos you have to join the club and pay $6.00 per year. Well worth it!
You need to put landscape fabric under the gravel so it does not sink into the mud.
Bill D

[Raif Harik]

Ah, I think I tried to do this one and it didn't work, or perhaps the copy told me to look for a certain link and I could not find said link, so I defaulted to inadequacy. I shall do that now.
@Bill that makes sense. I had originally dumped the gravel on the side of the house to get rid of it. I just mention the consumption by the black clay, because whenever I amend my soil with good soil, a short time later, I'll dig about and it will be all crap clay again. Kind of off topic. But thanks for the tip.

[Raif Harik]

2 x 6's are so much stronger, less likely to warp, and not much more cost. And it will allow you to space your sleepers farther apart.

Bob, how far apart do you recommend the 6x6's should be? Also do you have a system for leveling you recommend? I would probably want to sink the 6x6's about 4".
Thanks,
Raif

[Bob Riefer]

Hey!
For our cornhole deck scenario, I have them spaced at about 2 foot on center and since I used the 2x6's as my deck boards it's very strong. If you know spots where you'll be putting anything extremely heavy, wouldn't hurt to reduce the spacing in that area.

edit: I saw you had a couple other questions...

For leveling... I found my low spot and barely dug the 6x6 into the ground at all in that location. With a level on top of that sleeper and stretching towards where your next one will be, you can measure from underside of level to the ground... subtract that measurement from 5.5" (the thickness of a 6x6) to know how much dirt you need to remove... then eyeball, trial and error to get it fine tuned. Goes pretty fast.



Post pics as you progress!

[Raif Harik]

Great! Thanks. This might be a bit out, cuz I have my stuff all out there now and this will be pretty disruptive. I'm hoping to sort of add the sleepers slowly till they are right up in my space then push through that section.
R

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for becoming a contributor, Ralf! Much appreciated!