Need help getting keyed chuck off Delta Drill press

[Jim Tobias]

I have a Delta 17-925 drill press that I have had for many years. Still works great....but I recently ordered a Llambrich keyless chuck to put on it to make changing bits, etc. easier and faster.
I have tried the "tapping on all side " method but cannot get it to drop out. I am probably missing something in my attempts so I thought it was time to turn to this knowledgeable group for some advice. How do I get this off?
From the pictures below you can see the way it is mounted....also it is a JT 33.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[johnny means]

Is the spindle hollow? All my drill press and mills allow the spindle to be knocked out from above. Also, make sure it doesn't have a drawer bolt installed.

[Jim Tobias]

There is no hollowed out area on the side of the spindle. I have looked up from the bottom(in the middle of the jaws) and I do not see a screw/bolt inside.

Jim

[Bill Dufour]

Lower quill all the way. There should be two slots on opposite sides for a wedge near the top.
If not that looks like a threaded collar to drive the chuck off a fixed male arbor. Screw that nut down to force the chuck off.
Bil lD

[Jim Tobias]

John,
What is a "drift key" and what is it used for?
Thanks,
Jim

[John Gornall]

It's a wedge with a curved edge - goes in the slot in the spindle and pushes the chuck shaft out when you tap it in with a hammer

[John Gornall]

Search drill press drift key on youtube

[John Gornall]

The drift key for my Delta drill press hangs on a nail on the wall. I take out the chuck annually to clean and oil making sure no corrosion.

[Jon Nuckles]

A drift key, if your drill press accepts one, would remove the arbor and chuck together. If your new chuck accepts a JT33 taper, you probably want to remove only the chuck from the arbor. The best method to do that is typically a pair of wedges sized for your chuck. Google will find you many descriptions of how to use them.

[Mark Daily]

I also had a JT33 chuck on my drill press. I ordered these wedges from amazon to remove it.

Wedge Sets Set No.: #2 WEDGE SET, Used on JACOB Taper No.: 2JT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067BSFI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NP.uEbEEDQEYD

Just place then on opposite sides of the arbor above the chuck. Back one with something like a sledge hammer and lightly pound the other side with a hammer to force the wedges together. The chuck should pop off easily. Be ready to catch it as it comes off quickly!

Mine came off with the first tap.

[Walter Plummer]

Here is a good video that show how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK7GE7Tbshk.

[Thomas Canfield]

"Poor folks have Poor Ways". Take a couple of small chisels or similar tapered steel and put on each side of shaft and tap. The wedge will then force off the chuckl from the morse taper drive. Large flat blade screwdrivers might also give enough wedge. Just looked at my drill press and it will work. You should be able to find some wedges on hand - no purchase required, but then you can buy. The drift pin is used to remove the chuck mounted on the morse taper drive.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks to all for the suggestions and ideas. I still have not been able to get the chuck or morse taper out.
Let me reiterate....I do not have a slot in the side of the quill so there is no drift key or use of a drift key that would help on this one. I have viewed about a dozen youtube/and others videos, but none of them are describing this type of set up. Today I called delta and got their only tech on duty and he seemed to think that I would have to take the belt and pulley spindle off up top and said that there should be a screw/nit that is holding the morse tapor/spindle in the quill. This sounds like overkill but he may be right. Does any of this sound sensible about a JT 33 tapor removal?
Below are pictures of the quill/chuck and also the keyless chuck I want to install. They only seem to make these with the tapor as part of the whole mechanism.

Thanks again.....keep the ideas coming...…..something has to work.
Sorry about sideways photos......I made them smaller and flipped them but they still come through sideways on the site.

Jim

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[Thomas Canfield]

Here is link to picture of the #2 MT to JT33 https://www.mcmaster.com/morse/morse-taper-drill-chuck-arbors/ . There is normally never a thread at the JT33 end. The photo you provided for the new Liambrich keyless chuck says solid MT2 shank. In the earlier threads it sounded like you are only trying to remove the chuck from the JT33 end of the existing installation. That will require use of wedges (of some configuration) between the JT33 and existing chuck to remove the old chuck. Looking at a parts diagram on line shows the spindle to be a long shaft with the JT33 taper on end, and that shaft is held in place by a "special nut". You should not have to remove the spindle, just use wedges to separate chuck.

[John Gornall]

What about the hole just above the chuck in the last picture - is it a roll pin or setscrew?

Is the shaft at the top that holds the pulley hollow - some MT require a rod down the shaft to tap it out as does the headstock on my lathe

[Jim Tobias]

That hole has a rill pin in it. I took it out but nothing changed except that collar with the threads slipped up and down on the spindle.
Jim

[Jim Tobias]

Here is link to picture of the #2 MT to JT33 https://www.mcmaster.com/morse/morse-taper-drill-chuck-arbors/ . There is normally never a thread at the JT33 end. The photo you provided for the new Liambrich keyless chuck says solid MT2 shank. In the earlier threads it sounded like you are only trying to remove the chuck from the JT33 end of the existing installation. That will require use of wedges (of some configuration) between the JT33 and existing chuck to remove the old chuck. Looking at a parts diagram on line shows the spindle to be a long shaft with the JT33 taper on end, and that shaft is held in place by a "special nut". You should not have to remove the spindle, just use wedges to separate chuck.

I actually want to get the entire chuck and spindle/taper out so I could replace it with the Llimbrich in the picture.
Jim

[John Gornall]

Looking at the parts diagram at ereplacement parts it appears this drill press being variable speed is different. The chuck does not have a shaft of it's own - it mounts directly on the tapered end of a shaft that goes dirrectly into the variable speed drive. The chuck has to be removed from that shaft. No intermediate shaft between chuck an collumn with morse taper at both ends.

[John Gornall]

That threaded collar - some drill presses use a threaded collar to remove chuck

[Jerry Bruette]

I actually want to get the entire chuck and spindle/taper out so I could replace it with the Llimbrich in the picture.
Jim

The chuck you have pictured won't fit in your drill press. I think your best bet would be to remove the chuck from the spindle with wedges like Mark shows and then put the new chuck onto the spindle. You'll have to either order the new chuck without the Morse adapter or remove the adapter. The JT33 taper is proprietary to Jacobs for their chucks.

[Thomas Canfield]

Jim - I have the same drill press and my chuck was getting tight and needed cleaning and lubricating. I removed the chuck this morning by using 2 steel chisels about 1/2", one to each side and then tapping with a 8 oz ball peen hammer lightly. The original chuck had not been removed since purchase 14 years previous. I also looked at Amazon and there are wedges available that are designed for removing chucks and cost about $10-15 with Prime. Good luck. Now I need to reinstall the chuck and hope to get a good seat for another 14 years?? I am staying with a keyed chuck since I use large Forstner bits that really lock up a keyless chuck used on lathe and require strap wrench to loosen.

[roger wiegand]

Perhaps what you need is a "pickle fork", a way to apply wedge pressure on both sides of the chuck at the same time. They are used to disassemble ball joints, $10 at an auto parts store, or you can make your own-- I made a wooden one for one-time use when I swapped by drill press chuck.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks for more good ideas/thoughts on this. I took advice and have ordered a pair of the wedges to try.....should arrive tomorrow. I also am sending back the original Llambrich I bought and have reordered a Llambrich that is just the keyless chuck (no taper). Hoping to resolve it this way! I'll report back with either good news or more questions.
Thanks to all for the responses,
Jim

[John Connelly]

I have that machine. I removed my chuck by placing a wood scrap on top of the chuck and hitting it with a dead blow hammer. It was necessary to rotate the chuck 180 and repeat several times.

The spindle has a male Jacobs 33 taper (JT-33) on it, so you will need a chuck with a female JT-33 taper.

[Jim Tobias]

GOt it all done today....FINALLY! Got the new chuck yesterday and the different wedges today. These are very thick.....could not stack them as there wasn't enough room above the chuck to fit. The angle on the end of them was enough(with their thickness) to get the chuck off. A couple of taps with the hammers shown and it popped off. Cleaned the taper up and put the new Llambrich keyless chuck on with a tap on a piece of wood from the bottm.
It works great!
THANKS to all for the help and advice.
Pictures below, Sorry....even after rotating, they still aren't all coming through correctly.
Jim
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[Mark e Kessler]

Your welcome, LOL

[Bill Dufour]

Those wedges look too big to me. What taper are they supposed to fit?
Bil lD

[John Gornall]

Jim, well done

[Rick Potter]

Funny. I have the same machine, and i have trouble keeping my chuck ON.

[mike stenson]

Funny. I have the same machine, and i have trouble keeping my chuck ON.

Generally means there's dirt on/in the taper.

[Jim Tobias]

Those wedges look too big to me. What taper are they supposed to fit?
Bil lD

Bill,
They were too thick to stack because of the threaded piece that is above the chuck(I still do not know the purpose of that threaded piece) When I loosened the set screw in it, it just slides up and down within that 1/2" space between top of chuck and bottom of quill.
Anyway, I was able to drive them(unstacked from each side and the chuck finally popped off.
Link below to the wedges
Jim
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHJLBLG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

426957

[Charles Taylor]

Bill,
They were too thick to stack because of the threaded piece that is above the chuck(I still do not know the purpose of that threaded piece)

Some chucks have a threaded collar to help keep the chuck mounted on the spindle, and also helps to force it off when you want to remove it. That threaded piece is what the collar mates with. If I recall correctly, on my press that part is secured with a roll pin, not a set screw.
426959

[Jim Tobias]

Some chucks have a threaded collar to help keep the chuck mounted on the spindle, and also helps to force it off when you want to remove it. That threaded piece is what the collar mates with. If I recall correctly, on my press that part is secured with a roll pin, not a set screw.
426959

Chuck,
You're exactly right....it is attached with a roll pin. But it was not attached to chuck at all. The roll pin holds it in place on the taper just above the chuck. I guess if I could have gotten the entire arbor/taper out of the machine, I could have put a large nut on that thread and screwed it down against the chuck to force it off? Problem was/is it seems that I would have to take the entire machine apart to get the spindle/taper out.
Am I seeing thia correctly?
Thanks,
Jim

[Charles Taylor]

Chuck,
You're exactly right....it is attached with a roll pin. But it was not attached to chuck at all. The roll pin holds it in place on the taper just above the chuck. I guess if I could have gotten the entire arbor/taper out of the machine, I could have put a large nut on that thread and screwed it down against the chuck to force it off? Problem was/is it seems that I would have to take the entire machine apart to get the spindle/taper out.
Am I seeing thia correctly?
Thanks,
Jim


Jim,

The short answer is that without a collar on your chuck, the wedges were the way to go.

On chucks that have a collar, it is attached to the chuck with a snap ring so it can turn freely to attach or remove the chuck. It's threaded on the inside to mate with the part on the spindle:
427009427010

Here's another chuck that can use a collar but is missing it. You can see the groove for the snap ring:
427011

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks for the explanation Chuck. Glad to know about that part. Now I'm wondering if I misplaced that collar ~15 years ago when I tried a mortice attachment for this very same drill press. I've long since gave up on that idea and purchased a mortice machine. Knowing me, I probably lost that piece and since I have never removed the chuck(until now), I didn't miss it.
Anyway, I feel better knowing what it is/was.
Jim