Featherboards

[Travis Conner]

Anyone use these? I was ripping some 8ft long boards and noticed the last 12" of board was pulling away from the fence before it went through the blade. Now I haven't built my outfeed table and the thought of using those roller stands doesn't really appeal to me. Since i dont have someone to tail off and support the board I would just walk to the backside of the saw and pull it the rest if the way though. This is probably why it was pulling away since you can't hold it against the fence as easy from the backside. Lol

[Doug Garson]

Yes I use a featherboard regularilly especially if the cut requires precision. I also have an outfeed table and don't ever regret adding it. Doing the walk around is asking for trouble.

[Travis Conner]

It's just temporary until I get the table built. I'm thinking about paying a friend to help me tail off on the boards for a couple hours.

[Doug Garson]

Maybe just pick up one of these, avoids any problems with misscommunication with your friend which can be as dangerous as the walk around.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TOUGHBUILT-Roller-Stand-TB-S200/300753810

[bill epstein]

Never, ever walk around and pull the board through. Table saw safety 101. Deserved one upside the head where I learned.

Featherboards are a must for furniture work and one takes 5 minutes to make. Use an 8" or so wide piece of stock long enough so you can clamp it to the saw table and rip a 6" long kerf every 1/4 ". Then cut it off at 45 degrees. Clamp it so it holds the work piece to the fence. Sometimes you'll want a second one vertical to hold the work flat, clamped to the fence.

[glenn bradley]

I use them regularly. Various kinds. The magnetic ones are okay for light work; for anything large or long the leverage is too much for reliable pressure. I use them on the tablesaw - table and fence, router table - table and fence, bandsaw - mostly table. I have stacking ones for vertical work like resawing, arced ones for raised panels, short ones, long ones, you get the idea. there are usually a couple hanging where I use them.

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[nicholas mitchell]

Since i dont have someone to tail off and support the board I would just walk to the backside of the saw and pull it the rest if the way though. This is probably why it was pulling away since you can't hold it against the fence as easy from the backside. Lol

You’re just joking right?

[Travis Conner]

Nope I'm not kidding. I wouldnt do it with a small board, but I don't see any issues with a 2x12

[Phillip Mitchell]

Travis, Have you ever experienced kickback on the table saw?

You’d be surprised how much it can disrupt even an 8’ 2x12.

Taking your hands / feed pressure off a board mid cut with the blade still on is asking for trouble sooner or later, in my opinion.

[Bill Dufour]

I like the spring loaded "board buddies" wheels with adjustable downforce and ratchet one way action. They also make two way ones for shaper use.
Bill D

[bill epstein]

You’re just joking right?

Soon after I posted about making and using feather boards I realised I hadn't mentioned using a Strong Back with but it occurred to me the OP might be a 14 year old troll so why bother.

Glad I returned to it though otherwise I wouldn't know I could buy a Magnetic Feather Board for just $51.50. Seriously? People pay big $$$ for something made from scrap in a few minutes? I suppose in a Festool Age I shouldn't be surprised.

Can someone please direct me to where I can buy some Cauls?

[Travis Conner]

Yes usually every time it gets to the last 12" of the board.

[nicholas mitchell]

Can someone please direct me to where I can buy some Cauls?


They're in aisle 6, right next to the Aigner Deflector.

[Lee Schierer]

Since i dont have someone to tail off and support the board I would just walk to the backside of the saw and pull it the rest if the way though. This is probably why it was pulling away since you can't hold it against the fence as easy from the backside. Lol

This is exactly why you don't do this. It is dangerous. If you accidentily lift the board up a bit the saw blade can rip it out of your hands and throw it across the room at about 80 mph. Please finish your outfeed table or use some type of support stand to catch the out feed on your saw.

[David Buchhauser]

Anyone use these? I was ripping some 8ft long boards and noticed the last 12" of board was pulling away from the fence before it went through the blade. Now I haven't built my outfeed table and the thought of using those roller stands doesn't really appeal to me. Since i dont have someone to tail off and support the board I would just walk to the backside of the saw and pull it the rest if the way though. This is probably why it was pulling away since you can't hold it against the fence as easy from the backside. Lol


Hi Travis,
I have sent you an email with some information you may find useful. You might consider becoming a contributor (only $6 per year) so you can see/post photos and send/receive private messages and help to support this forum.
Thanks,
David

https://sawmillcreek.org/payments.php

[Mike Cutler]

Travis

Featherboards are a mainstay safety mechanism for the table saw, and other machines.
Some folks make them, which is easy enough, as I sometimes do, but I use the feather boards from Bow Products now. I started using them to hand feed on a shaper, then to hold stock against the fence while resawing on a bandsaw, and eventually to the table saw. Make them, or buy them, but use them.

Never pull a board through a table saw. That was how my shop teacher, many years ago, demonstrated kickback. I don't think even he was ready for the result. Made a heckuva impression on me at 12 years old, and put a hole through a chalkboard on the wall 20 feet away.:eek:

[jim sauterer]

Years ago I knew everything tried to rip a full 4x8 sheet of plywood.about half way through the sheet got pulled by me and the blade picked up the whole sheet and hit me in the crotch.didnt think that could happen but a 3 hp saw can sure throw some wood.now I have a straight edge for cutting plywood and finish on the saw.please be careful.

[Rod Sheridan]

They're in aisle 6, right next to the Aigner Deflector.


That was a good one, certainly not aisle 6 at Home Depot however:D

regards, Rod.

[Patrick Irish]

Featherboards and outfeed stands.

The roller stands kind of stuck because they can tilt left or right. I'd get the ridgid flip top stands. I wax them and they work great. If you're lucky, when you order a pair at home depot and go to pick them up, they give you 4 instead of 2 :D

I've since made a folding outfeed that was bolted to the back of my table saw.

[Tom Bender]

Glen you're the king of featherboards .

[tom lucas]

I use them when called for. I have some homemade ones that I sometimes use. But my favorite are the jessem featherboards for the tablesaw. Easy to set, long adjustment range.

[Floyd Mah]

Early in the thread, Bill at comment #10 suggested board buddies. These are made by a couple of manufacturers. Jessem makes a pricey, effective one (JessEm 04301 Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides). You can adjust them to hold the work against the table and against the fence. Not only that, by angling them so that their motion directs the workpiece into the fence, you can keep the workpiece from wandering. A feather board is good on the infeed side, but on the outfeed side, the off-cut interferes with the application of a feather board against the finished piece, preventing you from securing the finished piece. If you adjust the tension on the guide rollers, the workpiece can be held immobile against the fence and diminishes the likelihood of kickback when combined with the splitter. So, if you have a good outfeed support, I think roller guides are the way to go.

[Justin Rapp]

yes - I have about 5 or 6 floating around my show for use on different tools.

Oh - and before anything - please please learn to properly use the tools in your shop. We don't want to see you posting from the hospital!!!

[Travis Conner]

So is there something better than a
little push stick to push a 2x12-8 with? Use the featherboard i got that, I feel a little uneasy pushing it the last little bit all the way through and putting my hands between the fence and the blade even with a push stick because I feel that last little bit is where I'm going to have a kickback.

[Jim Becker]

A "shoe" type "push block" is often a much better choice than a "push stick". And FYI, ripping construction lumber isn't the easiest thing because they are not "dimensionally consistent". Nature of the beast.

[tom lucas]

And Grrrrr...ippers are worth every penny. I use at least one on just about every table saw cut.

[Doug Garson]

Agreed, I'm seriously looking at making a pair myself. My current go to is a shoe type that staddles the fence, advantage over grripper is I can still use overhead guard with dust collection.

[Justin Rapp]

big wood = bigger push stick. A 2x12 that is 8 feet long will need a bit more than a little push stick.

https://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/free-plans-articles/push_stick_1.jpg

[Travis Conner]

So can I use the one above and just keep the push stick against the fence when I'm pushing it through?

[Eric Schmid]

You might also look at your fence. Is it parallel to the blade? Often when a board is coming off the fence at the end of the cut it is because the outfeed side is kicked out away from the blade. A little kick out is fine, but when it gets excessive the cut wants to follow the path of the blade and pulls off the fence.

[Travis Conner]

I'll have to look at it again. I know it wasn't perfect but it was close. I want to say it was within a 32nd of an inch.

[Travis Conner]

I know it was even until the last 15" of board length, then it was like an 1/8" narrower.

[Justin Rapp]

I know it was even until the last 15" of board length, then it was like an 1/8" narrower.

Sounds like your fence might have some flex in it as the board is 5 or 6 feet past the fence on the out feed side, there is a lot of leverage that can deflect the fence causing you this issue. I have this on my Jet Contractor saw fence. My solution, I use a clamp on the out feed side of the fence to hold it down to the rail providing more a more rigid fence. Is it ideal, no, but it works for now until I get myself a better fence or upgrade to a sawstop.

[Mark Daily]

So can I use the one above and just keep the push stick against the fence when I'm pushing it through?
Yes you can.:)

[Eric Schmid]

When something isn’t working correctly, something isn’t correct. If something feels unsafe, it probably is. In your case I would start at the beginning. Check your saw alignment, get yourself some outfeed support, make or buy push sticks/blocks to handle various operations.

Under no circumstances am I hanging a 2x12x 8’ off the back end of a table saw right at the moment my hands are close to the blade, push block or no push block. Your instincts are correct, this is a good way to have an accident.

There are several factors that can and are contributing to your cutting issue. I don’t see any reference to stock prep. Personally, I don’t run any solid lumber through my table saw unless it’s been joined; flat on one face, square on one side. Even then, I prefer the bandsaw. If you’ve got all the guards in place, it’s probably okay, but don’t expect great cut quality.

[Travis Conner]

It's set right I checked it. I don't have a jointer yet, but my featherboard will be here today.

[Travis Conner]

The fence does deflect a little bit. It's a beismeyer too.

[Jim Becker]

The fence does deflect a little bit. It's a beismeyer too.
You should have less of a problem with this when you start working with better material. Construction grade 2x lumber is actually harder to work with than properly dried hardwoods...it moves a lot, is inconsistent in dimensions, may be more prone to binding and/or kickback as a result etc. Yes, it's relatively inexpensive and a nice place to start. You may want to consider sourcing some tulip poplar from a local source as an alternative. It's also relatively lower cost, machines well and is very adaptable to a lot of different purposes and finishes.

[glenn bradley]

I know it was even until the last 15" of board length, then it was like an 1/8" narrower.


The fence does deflect a little bit. It's a beismeyer too.

It would take quite a bit of force to make a Beisemeyer Commercial fence deviate that much. I would look for a feed path error. Are you getting saw tooth marks on the edge? Are they more pronounced where the result is narrower? On longer stock support at the infeed and outfeed gets more important. The tablesaw blade and fence are fixed in space. The material has to move through the cut without deviation for a true result. There is always a little deviation if only from stress release in the material but, well within tolerance most of the time.

When feeding long (or any) stock it is normal to use the push block near the fence, who wouldn't :). However, even with feather boards this can cause path deviation due to the leverage from heavy material.

426847

Even roller stands can try to change the feed direction if they are not lined up well. I use waxed solid surface supports or swivel casters to avoid this. It makes setting up your supports much less fussy.

[Frank Pratt]

The fence does deflect a little bit. It's a beismeyer too.

If you're flexing a Beismeyer fence, then you are pushing WAY too hard on it. See my comments to you on your dust collection thread.

[Travis Conner]

If you're flexing a Beismeyer fence, then you are pushing WAY too hard on it. See my comments to you on your dust collection thread.

That was just me pushing it sideways with my hand to see how rigid it was. Probably took 15 pounds of force to get it to move. I don't think i'm going to get that much lateral force against the fence ripping a board unless it's super warped.

[Travis Conner]

You should have less of a problem with this when you start working with better material. Construction grade 2x lumber is actually harder to work with than properly dried hardwoods...it moves a lot, is inconsistent in dimensions, may be more prone to binding and/or kickback as a result etc. Yes, it's relatively inexpensive and a nice place to start. You may want to consider sourcing some tulip poplar from a local source as an alternative. It's also relatively lower cost, machines well and is very adaptable to a lot of different purposes and finishes.


Yeah I need a jointer that way I can run boards that are true or atleast they will be true long enough for me to run them through the saw, then a few days later they will warp again from our humid weather down here. lol

[Doug Garson]

Another thought, do you have a splitter or riving knife on your saw? That should help prevent the board from moving away from the fence.

[Travis Conner]

Are the splitters universal? Like will the one that went on my jet work for the delta?

[David Buchhauser]

The splitters are not "Universal", although it is possible that some different brands of table saws might take the same splitter, particularly if the saw in question is an Asian "Clone" of another make and model of saw.
David

[tom lucas]

If your saw doesn't have provisions for a splitter, Microjig (and perhaps others) make an after market splitter that can be added to almost any table saw.