Beeswax “sweating” on new cutting boards - Suggestions or thoughts

[Benjimin Young]

Beeswax “sweating” on new cutting boards - Suggestions or thoughts
My new end grain cutting boards are “sweating” after an application of beeswax. By sweating I mean the oil comes back to the surface in tiny droplets after drying.
I had previously finished the boards in two coats of mineral oil and got my usual good results. After letting the two boards dry nicely for a week I decided to follow up with the popular beeswax/mineral oil wax mixture, something new that I have not done before. I purchased the pre-mixed wax at a recent woodworking show.
With everything at room temperature I applied a light coat, wiped off the excess, then set the boards aside to dry for 30 minutes before buffing. Instead I found the boards continuously “sweating” oil on some end grains. After 15 minutes of wiping and wiping some more the sweating continues. I suspect the oil is separating from the beeswax and not absorbing. I am not worried about fixing as either time or a good wash and refinish should fix the situation.
But, what can I learn from this? What is causing the problem and how to prevent in the future if I want to use beeswax/mineral oil. Has anyone experienced this problem? Thoughts?:rolleyes:

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[Prashun Patel]

It is quite possible that the wax is pulling out mineral oil that hasn’t (and won’t) dry.

It is par for the course whenever you apply a nondrying finish to end grain or porous woods.

[John K Jordan]

I often use beeswax but without mineral oil. I rub the beeswax into the surface then depending on the look I want and/or the wood I either rub it in by hand or (usually) heat with a heat gun until the wax melts and the liquid soaks into the wood. Then I wipe off the excess while still hot.

I don't use mineral oil for anything but treating corn silks to prevent borers. Mineral oil never dries/cures.

Some proven beeswax formulas from my notes:

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From Bill White
Mixed the wax with BLO
40% wax/60% BLO.
Added a splash of EV olive oil to retard any drying from the BLO.
Mixture seems to be top notch.

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From Keith Buxtion, he does us a small amount of mineral oil in his friction polish recipe as a lubricant:
4 oz -- Zinser Bullseye clear Shellac
2 oz – Denatured Alcohol
½ of a small bar of bees wax. The bar of wax is about a 1 inch square by 4 inch long (heat and let cool to warm before adding) I usually heat this I a small glass dish in a pan of water for a double boiler. Heat till was it melted and let cool to just warm condition before adding.
2 Tablespoon of clear mineral oil
Mix and shake well.
I usually make up a double batch of this in a large mason jar and I will let this mixture sit for a week and shake it each day before using in on wood. This will allow for the wax and the solvents to combine and eve

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From Peter Fabricius

Here is one to try, I have been using it for almost 10 years now with great success. Food safe and the Walnut Oil from the Food Store is apparently not allergenic.
In a small pot on low heat:
add 8oz of Walnut Oil, 3oz Bees Wax and about 1/2oz of Carnuba Wax. Let it dissolve and cool a little, then pour into a wide mouth (jam jar). Let cool completely and it should be a little harder than Vaseline in the jar. Adjustments are easy if you want another consistency.
Apply with a small square of terry towel to bowls, cutting boards, DropSpindles etc. for a nice soft sheen, natural feeling and safe.

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JKJ

[Mark McClurg]

I don't have any input on the cause of the sweating on the original post. But as input to some of the other recommended finishes for cutting boards, the reason mineral oil is recommended is because it won't go rancid - unlike vegetable, walnut or olive oil.

[Mike Henderson]

I just use mineral oil - no wax. I haven't had any problems.

But just a guess. Oil will soak into the end grain and may come out for various reasons. I had mineral oil soak all the way through an end grain board I had. I applied it on one side and when I turned the board over, there was oil on that side, also. So I think the wood acts like a storage device and something can cause it to come out as droplets.

Mike

[David Utterback]

It is hard to tell from the photo but it looks like one species is doing most of the sweating. Did you continue to wipe away the excess? I have used a similar mix on crotch walnut without any problem.