Sideboard Construction Research

[JohnM Martin]

I'm beginning to research building a sideboard and was wondering if someone could point me to a good book or articles on the possible ways (along with advantages/disadvantages) of going about the case construction. Specifically, I'm looking for information on the proper way(s) to tackle the back, drawer dividers, runners, etc... and do it all in a way that accounts for wood movement.

Here are the kinds of questions I'm looking to answer:


So far, I've come across two main strategies for the case - dovetails or frame and panel. Why would someone choose one method over the other - is it mainly for aesthetic reasons or are there other things to consider?
If opting for frame and panel construction, should the grain in the case sides run veritcally or horizontally?
How should the drawer runners/guides attach to the inside of the carcass (again so that when it moves, nothing splits).

[Mel Fulks]

Not trying to dissuade you from your goal ,but there are a LOT of old sideboards. Some are huge,so they tend to be the
lower priced ones. Dovetailed drawers are nice, but I would not feel compelled to copy old construction when the main
result would be to have it called a "fake" down the road. In one employment I cut down several large sideboards because
the big ones just were not wanted. That was a long time ago, and I think they are even less desired now.

[Jim Matthews]

Congratulations on taking on this task. Once it's done, no one can ever deny your accomplishment.

Bigger is not always better. Complexity will delay completion. Wood selection is more important than any ornamentation.

https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/build-a-retro-sideboard-online-video-series/

[Mel Fulks]

Jim, nothing wrong with that book case, or paint cabinet . But I doubt many in England would call that a sideboard .

[steven c newman]

I have a sideboard sitting right beside me, where I have my computer desk.....What pictures do you need? This one has a door on each end, with 2 drawers in the middle. Legs might be a bit too fancy....have seen plain, square legs on a few others...

[Charles Guest]

https://www.finewoodworking.com/1999/10/01/sideboard-strategies

Membership required -- small price if you're building a sideboard.

[JohnM Martin]

I have a sideboard sitting right beside me, where I have my computer desk.....What pictures do you need? This one has a door on each end, with 2 drawers in the middle. Legs might be a bit too fancy....have seen plain, square legs on a few others...


Thanks, Steve, I imagine it would be impossible to get a picture of the way the drawer dividers/runners attach to the case because the top prevents you from seeing inside it. What about the sides? How do they attach to the legs?

[JohnM Martin]

https://www.finewoodworking.com/1999/10/01/sideboard-strategies

Membership required -- small price if you're building a sideboard.

Thanks, Charles... I actually have that filed away in resources for this build. However, I did discover this comment in relation to that article -https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/will-neptunes-sideboard-design-how-strong It gives me some pause about these techniques.

[steven c newman]

Here we go....better shots IF I had the tripod upstairs...:rolleyes:
Front view..
426177
Note: 4 legs in the front are fancy, there are only 2 legs in back, and they are square.
426178
Fancy legs..from the knees down....knees up, they are square, with a groove detail..there is a square block down at the "ankle" where the stretchers attach
426179
These doors are veneered, with an applied bead molding..more of an Astragal . Doors are veneered 100%..
426180
Including book-match veneer on the inside. Sides of the case, and inbetween the door and drawer compartments are also veneered.....would seem they sit their tenoned edges into mortises in the legs. Drawers ride on runners applied to the case...bottom of case is a frame. Top of case is attached to a frame.
426181
Drawer details: Bottom drawer has a panel to infill inside the applied molding. It also has a way to hold the tray these used to have, and let the tray slide front to rear. Bottom drawer also slides on the frame that goes across the bottom of the case. ( floors inside the doors are panels sitting on this frame) Top drawer is just a simple drawer, rides on runners let into the side panels

Also, note the detail on the stretchers....there is no stretcher across the back, there is a middle stretcher, that connects to the ends. there are smaller stretchers that connect to the middle 2 legs and the stretcher. Across the front, there is 2 molded areas, that conceal the top and bottom web frames.

That might be enough to get you started...

[David Eisenhauer]

Sides can be fastened to the legs via post-and-panel construction. Complete your "four square" joinery of the legs to the rails (upper, lower, mid level, etc) and plow a groove between the upper and lower mortises to fit a panel in. I attach drawer blades from the front rail to the back rail with half-lap dovetails or M&T. Dividers can be fixed to the blades in several different ways as they are not really a load bearing part in my opinion. The drawer guide that sits on the end next to the legs and panel can be simply glued in place, again because it is not load bearing.

[Derek Cohen]

I'm beginning to research building a sideboard and was wondering if someone could point me to a good book or articles on the possible ways (along with advantages/disadvantages) of going about the case construction. Specifically, I'm looking for information on the proper way(s) to tackle the back, drawer dividers, runners, etc... and do it all in a way that accounts for wood movement.

Here are the kinds of questions I'm looking to answer:


So far, I've come across two main strategies for the case - dovetails or frame and panel. Why would someone choose one method over the other - is it mainly for aesthetic reasons or are there other things to consider?
If opting for frame and panel construction, should the grain in the case sides run veritcally or horizontally?
How should the drawer runners/guides attach to the inside of the carcass (again so that when it moves, nothing splits).



Hi Martin

There are a number of builds on my website, including solid and frame-and-panel construction, building drawers, etc. All in step-by-step construction with explanation of the design elements.

Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

I reached in, behind the "blades" ...they used a groove. Runners then went into the grooves. Grooves also hold a strip to which the side panels are attached to. At least at the top. Floor seems to be a panel, that everything above it sits on....fancy front edge is a glued on strip...with glue blocks.

BTW: this was a Yard Sale find, that my Daughter found....no idea of what age it is.

[Mel Fulks]

Steven , Im guessing 1920s for that piece.

[JohnM Martin]

Here we go....better shots IF I had the tripod upstairs...:rolleyes:
Front view..
426177
Note: 4 legs in the front are fancy, there are only 2 legs in back, and they are square.
426178
Fancy legs..from the knees down....knees up, they are square, with a groove detail..there is a square block down at the "ankle" where the stretchers attach
426179
These doors are veneered, with an applied bead molding..more of an Astragal . Doors are veneered 100%..
426180
Including book-match veneer on the inside. Sides of the case, and inbetween the door and drawer compartments are also veneered.....would seem they sit their tenoned edges into mortises in the legs. Drawers ride on runners applied to the case...bottom of case is a frame. Top of case is attached to a frame.
426181
Drawer details: Bottom drawer has a panel to infill inside the applied molding. It also has a way to hold the tray these used to have, and let the tray slide front to rear. Bottom drawer also slides on the frame that goes across the bottom of the case. ( floors inside the doors are panels sitting on this frame) Top drawer is just a simple drawer, rides on runners let into the side panels

Also, note the detail on the stretchers....there is no stretcher across the back, there is a middle stretcher, that connects to the ends. there are smaller stretchers that connect to the middle 2 legs and the stretcher. Across the front, there is 2 molded areas, that conceal the top and bottom web frames.

That might be enough to get you started...


Wow, thank you, Steven for taking the time to supply the pictures.

[David Eisenhauer]

FWW #277 (Oct 2019) has a sideboard project on the cover. Nice looking project.

[Joe Leigh]

I'm beginning to research building a sideboard and was wondering if someone could point me to a good book or articles on the possible ways (along with advantages/disadvantages) of going about the case construction. Specifically, I'm looking for information on the proper way(s) to tackle the back, drawer dividers, runners, etc... and do it all in a way that accounts for wood movement.

Here are the kinds of questions I'm looking to answer:


So far, I've come across two main strategies for the case - dovetails or frame and panel. Why would someone choose one method over the other - is it mainly for aesthetic reasons or are there other things to consider?
If opting for frame and panel construction, should the grain in the case sides run veritcally or horizontally?
How should the drawer runners/guides attach to the inside of the carcass (again so that when it moves, nothing splits).



Fine Woodworking #130 June 1998 has exactly what you need. An article by Will Neptune breaks down a table with drawers that applies to sideboards as well. It explains all of the components, doublers, kickers, runners, dividers, rails, etc, and shows the proper joinery technique to solve wood movement issues. It’s a great article that I refer to on each of my table/sideboard projects.

[JohnM Martin]

Fine Woodworking #130 June 1998 has exactly what you need. An article by Will Neptune breaks down a table with drawers that applies to sideboards as well. It explains all of the components, doublers, kickers, runners, dividers, rails, etc, and shows the proper joinery technique to solve wood movement issues. It’s a great article that I refer to on each of my table/sideboard projects.

Is this the one? https://www.finewoodworking.com/issue/1998/06/issue-130 I don't see it accessible in the digital issue - maybe there some articles not available online?

[JohnM Martin]

Is this the one? https://www.finewoodworking.com/issue/1998/06/issue-130 I don't see it accessible in the digital issue - maybe there some articles not available online? Nevermind, I see it now. Thank you for recommending this.

[Charles Guest]

His presentation is orthodox, maybe tending to overbuilt. Neptune is a Cartouche Award winner and taught at North Bennett Street for years, may still, I'm not sure. I've re-read the article, since it's been a while since I'd seen it. As drawn, you couldn't blow one of the sideboards in the article apart with a stick of dynamite.

[Stew Denton]

John, I just bought a book on building furniture that is fundamentally about designing furniture, chests, and cabinets. It shows options on lots of different projects. The joints that work best in lots of applications, and detailed drawings on how the joints go together, and the framing you use.

It is not a "how to book" on how to make the joints, it is a book on how to design the project you intend to build, the framing, joints, panels, etc.

I think it would be very beneficial in your case. The book is 374 pages long, and has 2 to 4 drawings on every page. It has sections on Joints, subassemblies, tables (33 types), 11 types of desks, chests, cabinets (two pages on sideboard), and beds. It is well done and well worth the price. My copy is hardback, and it was relatively low dollar as it must not have been a big seller.

The book is "Rodale's Illustrated Cabinetmaking, How to Design and Construct Furniture That Works" by Bill Hylton.

You can by a good to better copy on that auction sight for $5 to $10.

I recommend the book.

Stew

[David Eisenhauer]

+1 on Bill Hylton's book John. You will probably never find "your" exact project sample in the book to copy from, but you will find a design of the interior structure of a piece of furniture that can be applied to your own project. Easy to see and figure out.