Thoughts on plywood shop walls

[Dolfo Picanco]

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum and realize there are similar threads up but I didn't find my specific answers so I thought I'd ask here.

Bought a new house, garage came unfinished and I've decided to finish it and build up my space. I've decided to go plywood. I live the utility and the look. Here are my questions for this eof you who have done it:

1) what thickness?
2) Is it worth getting the sanded plywood?
3) Anyone had any luck sanding the unsanded plywood to a good finish while still in full sheets? And if so what did you use to do all that sanding with, and how long did it take.
4) what do you wish you did from from the get go?

Thanks all!

[Andrew Seemann]

1). 1/2 is probably fine, 5/8 if you want more rigidity and cost.
2). Up to you, if you want it smooth then yes (see 3 below), if you are going to paint it, probably not.
3). You could do this, but why? It sounds like sheer misery. If you really want to, get one sheet and try. And then buy sanded:)
4). I wish I would have used a light tan or off white paint rather than a pure white semi gloss. I think it would have been easier on the eyes, and better color rendition in the shop. Fortunately there is so much stuff on the walls, I don't actually see much paint.

[Jim Becker]

I've never seen "unsanded" plywood, honestly....

Plywood is a good material if you want/need to be able to drive screws "anywhere". It's not inexpensive, however, and thinner, less expensive sheets will not have the same screw holding power as thicker sheets. (no surprise there). That said, I suspect you could easily get away with nominal 1/2" material (about 7/16" actual) as long as you screw anything heavy into the studs.

That all said, be sure to check with your local code enforcement folks about what's acceptable to put on the walls and ceiling of a garage, especially if it's attached to your home. At the very least the wall bordering the house will be required to be fire retardant and thicker drywall. You may or may not be permitted to put anything flammable over it.

Most of my shop walls are covered with 7/32" T1-11 sheet goods. I like the look. The portion that has OSB is "functional" but I'm not a fan. I did not consider thicker plywood due to cost. If I did another shop, I'd probably go drywall and French cleats.

[Von Bickley]

If the shop is unfinished, I would go with insulation and 1/2" plywood.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I agree with Von. In my shop, I insulated and went 1/2" plywood on the walls. I cheapened out using sheetrock on the ceiling. I regret that decision as even with 9' 7" ceilings I have dings in the sheetrock.

[Jonathan M Peters]

4) what do you wish you did from from the get go?

I think everyone else has questions 1 through 3 covered well, but I can share my experience which may help with your fourth question.

My garage is my workshop. It's a one car garage, super old (built in 1938), uninsulated, wood framing exposed. I built a tool wall for a bunch of my most often used hand tools and power tools. While it's been great, I wish I put plywood up in the whole garage (with insulation, walls and ceiling). What I REALLY wish I did was french cleats from workbench height and up. That's on my list of to-do projects and it is probably easiest to put the french cleats on sheets of plywood prior to hanging.

So if you're considering putting plywood up on the walls and you think you may want to have a french cleat system at some point down the road, I recommend you do the french cleats before hanging the plywood.

[John K Jordan]

I built my shop with 2x6 studs, insulated, and paneled the inside and ceilings with 1/2" Radiata Pine plywood.

I put every piece up with deck screws so I could remove panels if needed. The stuff came so smooth even 400 sandpaper probably wouldn't have improved it. The back side is nicer than any other plywood I've used except for Baltic Birch. The sheets were without voids, flat, and even leftover sheets I've had for years now didn't warp.

Pay attention to the insulation vapor barrier recommendations for your area - they may be different for conditioned spaces in the cold north vs the hot south.

If painting, I'd prop them up outside and use a spray paint rig and paint both sides before installing. I did that for OSB panels mounted where humidity might be high and the painting was extremely quick.

I am SO glad I used plywood. It allows me to mount anything anywhere. It adds a lot of strength to the structure too. If you put it on the ceiling buy or rent a panel jack/lift or the 4x8 sheets will first break your bones then kill you.

425749

Talk to the building inspector in your area - there are codes in some places that may prohibit combustible panels in a garage or require it be covered with sheetrock or fire "proof" paint or something else. May not apply to stand-alone shops.

JKJ




Hi All,

I'm new to the forum and realize there are similar threads up but I didn't find my specific answers so I thought I'd ask here.

Bought a new house, garage came unfinished and I've decided to finish it and build up my space. I've decided to go plywood. I live the utility and the look. Here are my questions for this eof you who have done it:

1) what thickness?
2) Is it worth getting the sanded plywood?
3) Anyone had any luck sanding the unsanded plywood to a good finish while still in full sheets? And if so what did you use to do all that sanding with, and how long did it take.
4) what do you wish you did from from the get go?

Thanks all!

[Andrew Seemann]

If you put it on the ceiling buy or rent a panel jack/lift or the 4x8 sheets will first break your bones then kill you.
JKJ

Yes! I rented a drywall lift to put the OSB on my 9 1/2 foot ceiling. Definitely one of the best $40 I have ever spent in my life.

[Don Coffman]

My shop was not insulated, it is now, I covered the walls with 7/16" OSB, my 8' ceiling is insulated and I used paneling to cover it. I tried french cleats - after a couple months I determined I did not want all my tools on display; more of a theft concern living in a rural area. I've since built cabinets for storage.

[mike stenson]

My shop was not insulated, it is now, I covered the walls with 7/16" OSB, my 8' ceiling is insulated and I used paneling to cover it. I tried french cleats - after a couple months I determined I did not want all my tools on display; more of a theft concern living in a rural area. I've since built cabinets for storage.

In my last shop, and likely in this one, the French cleats held cabinets mostly :)

[Jonathan M Peters]

In my last shop, and likely in this one, the French cleats held cabinets mostly :)

That's the beauty of the french cleat :D Can hold full on cabinets or simple little tool racks!

[John K Jordan]

That's the beauty of the french cleat :D Can hold full on cabinets or simple little tool racks!

I've never used french cleats. Are they cheaper than deck screws and shelf brackets?

[mike stenson]

I've never used french cleats. Are they cheaper than deck screws and shelf brackets?

Considering I've always built mine with what was effectively scrap. Yes. They're also a lot more flexible, which is the real advantage.

[Jack Frederick]

My shop is 2x6, insulated and 1/2" plywood. The walls are 10' and when pricing the material I decided to go with 8' sheets, cut a 2' filler and do a contrasting color 1x4 band to cover the seam. My plywood is set vertically. Once I get to a wall section I can remove the plywood, make what ever changes/additions and have the wall back up without a lot of fuss. Oh, and stud finding is pretty easy;) I am very happy with the way this worked out.

[Jonathan M Peters]

I've never used french cleats. Are they cheaper than deck screws and shelf brackets?

You can make a lot of french cleats by ripping up a sheet of plywood. And if you put the french cleats on the sheets of plywood to be hung on the wall before hanging, you can screw them from the back. That way there are no screw holes on the face.

[Jonathan M Peters]

You can make a lot of french cleats by ripping up a sheet of plywood. And if you put the french cleats on the sheets of plywood to be hung on the wall before hanging, you can screw them from the back. That way there are no screw holes on the face.

Here's a pretty good video: https://youtu.be/lzd0dxziyIs

[Jim Becker]

I've never used french cleats. Are they cheaper than deck screws and shelf brackets?

Cheaper in that you can move stuff around "instantaneously" and without needing a third hand for a level. :) A well designed French cleat system can be an amazing thing as a shop evolves and needs change. My next shop...if there ever is one, such as if we decide to downsize...will have a cleat system for sure.

[John K Jordan]

Cheaper in that you can move stuff around "instantaneously" and without needing a third hand for a level. :) A well designed French cleat system can be an amazing thing as a shop evolves and needs change. My next shop...if there ever is one, such as if we decide to downsize...will have a cleat system for sure.

I'll keep that in mind. Mine seems to have evolved to steady state. If I want to move something I take out screws and put them in a different place. A plywood wall with extra screw holes is kind of decorative. :)

[Jim Becker]

Cleats are good for the anal mind, John...everything spaced nice and level. Everything has it's place, even if that place changes over time. LOL And yea...a lot less extraneous screw holes. But on a practical sense, the cleats can have a lot of weight holding power, too. One novel way to use them is for interchangeable/movable work surfaces as well as for holding knocked down things on the wall until you need to pull them out in a way that you're less likely to knock them off the wall accidentally. That's what I mean about a well thought out cleat design. Did I happen to mention the anal mind thing? :D :D :D

[John K Jordan]

... Did I happen to mention the anal mind thing? :D :D :D

Ah, I can see how that would be attractive to some. I guess I'm more of a sloppy "slap it up and use it" person.

For example, my tape storage system is incredibly practical but I'm sure it's a horror to the refined gentleman shop keeper.
Don't know if cleating it could make it any more compact or accessible.

425798

When I do change up, such as when I acquired a set of Robust tool rests and threw out the old, I make use of an amazing device that will both remove and insert screws.

425803

That the wall may end one day end up full of holes doesn't even register on my consciousness. Some people even start with walls full of holes. (I HATE pegboard!) And a 3/4" pine board on steel shelf brackets can hold a huge amount of weight.

But I looked up some french cleat and slat wall designs to see what all the fuss was about - I can see how they would be attractive to a retail store that did a lot of change-about or to someone who likes to redecorate. But the deal-breaker for me is they all appear to require a resource so valuable it's long used up in my shop - empty wall space!

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

A cleat system is definitely easier to implement in a "clean" space, such as a brand new workshop...

[mike stenson]

A cleat system is definitely easier to implement in a "clean" space, such as a brand new workshop...

The first time I hung cabinets (by myself) using a cleat, I swore that I'd never attempt to hang one with a ledger strip, and a deadman again ;)

So it's not really just about being 'clean' and 'neat', it's really about convenience. Besides, since I tend to use offcuts of plywood to make the cleats, it's effectively free.

[Jim Andrew]

CD plywood is unsanded.

[Dolfo Picanco]

Man, thanks all of the replies and your thoughts.

I do plan on going french cleat where I want my hanging tools, but I'm gonna mount some cabinets on the wall as well and have a corner with shelves that I'm gonna make for random storage and to encompass my keezer and my garage fridge (any beer brewers out there?!).

I'm sold on the plywood, and im gonna go half inch. I'm not gonna finish the ceiling yet, just gonna reinforce the runners so that I can use it for storage (got a plan to put my lumber up there) plus I like the look of my subroof, If i'm gonna go wood I figure go all out. I'm not planning on insulating because I live in southern california and it's not really necessary.....Sorry to rub that part in for some of ya...

Thing I'm just not sure yet is the sanded vs unhanded aka, expensive vs less expensive....

Gonna price out at Ghanal lumber tomorrow to see if they can beat the Lowes/HD prices...

[John K Jordan]

...I'm not planning on insulating because I live in southern california and it's not really necessary.....Sorry to rub that part in for some of ya...


Ha! In my experience comments concerning the relative weather in SoCal are often tempered by the relative cost of living. :)

Compared to around here the overall index is 173.3 vs 85.5 (https://www.bestplaces.net/cost-of-living/knoxville-tn/los-angeles-ca/50000) Maybe your area is better.

[Dolfo Picanco]

HAHA, TRUTH. But I fully understand I live in a super high cost of living state, and a super high cost of living city (Long Beach), but I do love where I live, have a good job as a teacher that pays well compared to the averages that teachers are paid, good benefits, and a gainfully employed wife. So I'll stick to my pocket of southern california until I can retire to an acre in the mountains somewhere that isn't quiet as expensive.

[Andrew More]

Ah, I can see how that would be attractive to some. I guess I'm more of a sloppy "slap it up and use it" person.

Preach it brother John! Also plywood with screws can be far less random. I watched a LOT of youtube videos on French Cleat and I have yet to see one that it looks more convenient that put a screw anywhere. Maybe it's because my space is very limited, and plywood allows me to cram in as much stuff as is humanly possible. Also I've yet to see a hanger for cleats that couldn't also be screwed into a wall.

[Mark Daily]

I've never seen "unsanded" plywood, honestly....

Plywood is a good material if you want/need to be able to drive screws "anywhere". It's not inexpensive, however, and thinner, less expensive sheets will not have the same screw holding power as thicker sheets. (no surprise there). That said, I suspect you could easily get away with nominal 1/2" material (about 7/16" actual) as long as you screw anything heavy into the studs.

That all said, be sure to check with your local code enforcement folks about what's acceptable to put on the walls and ceiling of a garage, especially if it's attached to your home. At the very least the wall bordering the house will be required to be fire retardant and thicker drywall. You may or may not be permitted to put anything flammable over it.

Most of my shop walls are covered with 7/32" T1-11 sheet goods. I like the look. The portion that has OSB is "functional" but I'm not a fan. I did not consider thicker plywood due to cost. If I did another shop, I'd probably go drywall and French cleats.

Here in the Phoenix area, building code requires 5/8” drywall on all garage walls and ceiling in case of fire.

[Mel Fulks]

Mark, It's too bad those Phoenix birds are protected by the Feds. But I love to see them on clear nights !

[Roger Feeley]

+1 on the drywall lift. I’ve put up osb by holding it in place with my head and shoulders while driving screws. It wasn’t pretty. The lift gives you time to position carefully and saves on excedrin.

[Roger Feeley]

I used 7/16 OSB on my shop and I like it fine.

[Bill Dufour]

No idea where you live but 5/8 or thicker plywood is the needed thickness for rated sheathing in the USA. Of course the nailing schedule is insane these days to meet code. My garage built in California in the 1970's has no plywood in the walls. chicken wire is the only seismic reinforcement for the walls.
Bil lD