Easing corners on furniture

[michael dilday]

I bought a Woodriver corner easing plane from woodcraft. It is a really nifty small plane that looks like it would be great and when it works it does a great job however... It keeps splitting the wood. It seems like if I go against the angle of the grain it is worse but even if i favor the grain it still cuts the corner off randomly. I have tried taking small bites multiple passes and still have an issue. It is so bad that I cannot get hardly a single corner eased over without at least one or two issues. I have been gluing them down and continuing to try it but now I am about to give up on it. Does anyone use anything like this with success? Any other ideas for easing corners? In the past I have just used sandpaper with pretty good success but was looking for a better solution. Woodpeckers had a nice looking one time tool corner easing plane but I just couldn't justify the $500 price tag for the set.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-corner-easing-plane

[johnny means]

You've over complicated things. A hard sanding block with a fine grit paper is the best tool for breaking sharp corners. Not everything calls for a special gadget. I usually just glue 180 or 220 grit paper to any old scrap of wood call it a day. Sometimes, if I need a softer corner, I use an old ROS pad. I never use a sponge or handheld paper because it always leaves scratches on the adjoining surfaces.

[Bill Carey]

2nd the sandpaper I use 180 on a preppin weapon and it works great.

[michael dilday]

OK you got me - what is a preppin weapon?

[michael dilday]

Thanks guys. I am thinking sandpaper too.

[Jacob Mac]

Is a round over bit a possibility? Otherwise, I almost always use a block plane

[Bill Carey]

Best sandpaper holder I've found.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=preppin+weapon&hvadid=77653074563918&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_386067rkrv_e

[Randy Heinemann]

Like others have said, sandpaper works well. However, a small hand plane will work also, depending how much working room you have. A few years ago I bought the Lie-Nielsen No. 101 Violin Maker's Plane. It's a tiny plane of the block plane type. It's weight is just right for this work since it's made out of bronze. With its blade set to just trim a little of you can round over a corner ever so slightly with a few passes at slightly different angles. You do, of course, need to watch grain direction. Even a tiny plane with a fine cut will pull up fibers against the grain.

I looked at the Wood River corner easing plane. Your lack of success with it might just be that it is a cheaply made solution for this work. Some of Wood River's tools are actually very good, but others aren't. I have a Wood River block plane and spokeshave, both great tools, but they were more expensive than their basic planes, but still cheaper than Lie-Nielsen or Veritas. A block plane would work also, but standard size are a little cumbersome for this task.

[Phil Mueller]

Sandpaper here too. I do sometimes use the rubber profile sanding forms like these:

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[michael dilday]

I think a rounder bit would be too aggressive. I only want 1/32 or maybe even less.

[michael dilday]

Best sandpaper holder I've found.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=preppin+weapon&hvadid=77653074563918&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_386067rkrv_e

Nice Bill.

[Lee Schierer]

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-corner-easing-plane

I can't speak for the Woodriver corner plane, It looks like it would be difficult to sharpen and adjust the depth of cut. I frequently use a home made chamfer plane to ease corners on pieces of wood. This little plane does and excellent job. It was made from plans from Wood Magazine a number of years ago. I also use my Veritas apron plane to dod the same thing, though any small block plane would do the same job.

[Jacob Reverb]

I think a rounder bit would be too aggressive. I only want 1/32 or maybe even less.

I generally plane, drawfile, and/or sand, depending on how hard the wood is and how much I want to break the edge.

[Ron Selzer]

I have used this one for over 40 years, it works as long as I watch the grain.
As in anything it may not be for you
I am happy with it over 90% of the time
good luck
Ron

https://www.rockler.com/carbide-tipped-radius-plane

[glenn bradley]

Best sandpaper holder I've found.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=preppin+weapon&hvadid=77653074563918&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_386067rkrv_e


+1. I just grab one when they were on sale here and there and now have a half a dozen. Your corner easing will depend on material, scale of the piece and so forth. For fine work when I want the eased edge to be finish ready I do use a small plane. It is however, one that can be sharpened so that it does the job reliably. I'm not sure I see how the Woodriver product gets sharpened.

425678

For a different take on the 'Slick Plane' (https://www.rockler.com/carbide-tipped-radius-plane?sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgPDIiaDH5wIVkxh9Ch3AEQlXEAQYASAB EgI1Y_D_BwE) , I spent more time trying to make it work than I would have spent doing the easing another way. I felt like the concept was good and it really ought to work. We never saw eye to eye ;-)

[Jim Koepke]

For years my Radi-Plane:

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(similar to the Rockler plane) was a hit and mis affair. Now it depends on what kind of easing is desired. For a rounded corner a hollow plane of the appropriate size works great.

For a flat chamfer a block plane or spokeshave is often the first choice. If an equal chamfering is wanted on all corners than over the years a couple of antique chamfer planes have been acquired.

Any of these can have splintering if working against the grain. If the grain is too wild, then a scraper or sandpaper may be your best choice.

jtk

[ken hatch]

I agree with others, sandpaper is the safest way but not as crisp an edge as one broken with a cutter. My goto, if it is possible to use a plane, is a shop made small wood stock plane. It can be used with either hand and in both directions. It is stored close to the bench and is only used to break edges so it is ready to go at all times.

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ken

[Robert Hazelwood]

That tool seems a little goofy to me. Probably takes too big of a bite, and isn't sharp enough.

If you just want to break a sharp edge without creating a visible chamfer or roundover, just use a sanding block. Or a swipe or two with a normal plane, block or bench. A bevel down plane with a cap iron will help avoid tearout on long grain, but a light depth of cut with any sharp plane should work fine 99% of the time for this task.

When using a plane (or any cutting tool) you need to be careful on the end grain edges. Planing off the end of an end grain edge often causes spelching, or pulling a big splinter out of the adjacent edge, because the fibers at the end are unsupported. If you ease the long grain edge first then that will mitigate the issue. Or you can come in from both sides with the plane instead of going all the way through. A very sharp blade, thin shaving depth, and a skewed plane also help.

If you are trying to make visible chamfers as an aesthetic detail then I think the best chamfer planes are the Japanese mentori-kanna. But certainly not necessary for simple easing of edges.

[Steven Lee, NC]

router bit if I want something pretty pronounced otherwise something just to break the edges I use sandpaper in a block or a block plane.

[Prashun Patel]

I don't use a single method.

Even a 1/8" roundover bit can cause tear out.

If you literally want to just soften the edge a smidge, sandpaper is fine. I do it with a random orbit sander and 220 or 400 grit. Doing ends by hand can cause cross-grain scratches.
Sandpaper is tricky on end grain because you have to sand cross grain.

If you want any kind of visible edge, then whether you use a 1/8" roundover bit, a chamfer bit, or a block plane, there's no getting around having to read your grain. So, just take very very light passes. Usually, any minor tearout is remedied by going in the opposite direction on the next pass.

[Warren Mickley]

I have used a double iron smoothing plane for this work for about 45 years. It is fast and reliable. A lot of these gimmick planes are prone to tear out.

[lowell holmes]

Try one of these.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/search?query=spokeshave

[Rob Luter]

Depending on the amount of easing I'm looking for, I use a LN 102 block plane or a cork backed sanding block, or both. It's not complicated.

[Oskar Sedell]

as Warren just stated, a double iron plane is the answer. The block plane is inviting for chamfering and detail work but is not ideal for long grain because of the risk of tear out. I made a block plane sized wooden plane with double iron for this.

[Stewie Simpson]

The following shows 1 of the traditional boxed chamfer planes that I made a few years ago. Of non laminated construction, the single irons are bedded 60* bd.

https://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0068_zpsuxds4xm4.jpg
(https://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0068_zpsuxds4xm4.jpg.html)



https://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0271_zpstkd7o9n1.jpg (https://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0271_zpstkd7o9n1.jpg.html)https://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0272_zpskgizyp1e.jpg (https://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0272_zpskgizyp1e.jpg.html)

[Rob Luter]

The following shows 1 of the traditional boxed chamfer planes that I made a few years ago. Of non laminated construction, the single irons are bedded 60* bd.

https://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0068_zpsuxds4xm4.jpg
(https://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0068_zpsuxds4xm4.jpg.html)



https://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0271_zpstkd7o9n1.jpg (https://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0271_zpstkd7o9n1.jpg.html)https://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0272_zpskgizyp1e.jpg (https://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0272_zpskgizyp1e.jpg.html)

Very Nice Stewie! A classy solution.

[Warren Mickley]

The following shows 1 of the traditional boxed chamfer planes that I made a few years ago.

I don't know why you would call this a traditional plane. Is there documentation of this design?

[chris carter]

It's difficult, but doing it freehand with a chisel can really look gorgeous. Just enough subtle nuance to attract the eye without being all that noticeable. It's hard to do well though. I keep trying and I get better and better at it. When I nail it, it looks just gorgeous in a way that is hard to explain.

[Frank Pratt]

It's difficult, but doing it freehand with a chisel can really look gorgeous. Just enough subtle nuance to attract the eye without being all that noticeable. It's hard to do well though. I keep trying and I get better and better at it. When I nail it, it looks just gorgeous in a way that is hard to explain.

That sounds interesting as well as difficult. Can you post a pic of the result?

[Bob Jones 5443]

Try one of these.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/search?query=spokeshave

I was waiting for that. Glad to see I'm not the only one who reaches for the spokeshave. Infinitely adjustable, and produces an organic-looking soft edge.

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[Stewie Simpson]

I don't know why you would call this a traditional plane. Is there documentation of this design?

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBDWcniUkXs)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBDWcniUkXs&list=RDaBDWcniUkXs&start_radio=1&t=21

[Rob Luter]

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBDWcniUkXs)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBDWcniUkXs&list=RDaBDWcniUkXs&start_radio=1&t=21

I like Etta too. To you have a build thread? This is an elegant plane. I love the classic approach.