Planer questions

[Alex Zeller]

So my main question is about lifting a planer. I've decided to get a 20" planer. Most likely it'll be the Powermatic 209 style 4 post planer. I added a picture just so people wouldn't have to guess which planer it is. I haven't decided which brand yet. Since they all come from the same factory they all weigh about 900lbs. Lifting a pallet isn't a problem but at some point I'll be putting it on a mobile base. Also if I could lift it with an engine lift it would be much easier for me to get it through the door into my shop. But there doesn't seam to be mounts to lift it. If it's narrow enough to fit through a 36" door without taking off the in/ out feed tables could I put a strap under them? What are the black bars under the table. I've read they are lifting bars but didn't want to assume they could be used.

My other question is about the helical carbide head. One of the tings I want to do with it is make segmented bowls. After gluing up the rings I want to be able to smooth the surface so the rings can be glued together. Since I can't orient the grain and I could be working with different type of woods and possibly figured it seamed like the helical head makes sense. Is the finish good enough to glue two rings together or will they need sanding?

425608

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Alex,
The black bars slide out - they are for lifting the machine. There are 4 bars total - 2 on each side of the machine.
David

[Stewart Lang]

So my main question is about lifting a planer. I've decided to get a 20" planer. Most likely it'll be the Powermatic 209 style 4 post planer. I added a picture just so people wouldn't have to guess which planer it is. I haven't decided which brand yet. Since they all come from the same factory they all weigh about 900lbs. Lifting a pallet isn't a problem but at some point I'll be putting it on a mobile base. Also if I could lift it with an engine lift it would be much easier for me to get it through the door into my shop. But there doesn't seam to be mounts to lift it. If it's narrow enough to fit through a 36" door without taking off the in/ out feed tables could I put a strap under them? What are the black bars under the table. I've read they are lifting bars but didn't want to assume they could be used.

My other question is about the helical carbide head. One of the tings I want to do with it is make segmented bowls. After gluing up the rings I want to be able to smooth the surface so the rings can be glued together. Since I can't orient the grain and I could be working with different type of woods and possibly figured it seamed like the helical head makes sense. Is the finish good enough to glue two rings together or will they need sanding?

425608

Alex, yep like David said, the black bars are for lifting. That's definitely the area you want to use for moving/lifting.

As for the helical head, I'd be a little concerned about running cross-grain. The helical cuts nice, but you'll still get fuzzies on the cross-grain areas. It'll still be absolutely worth getting, but I think for that particular application you'd be better suited with a drum sander or wide belt. But who knows, it might work for what you need, and it'll definitely be better than what you'd get with straight knives.

[David Buchhauser]

You could sand after planing to size to eliminate any cutter marks. The drum sander would work for this.
David

[Jim Becker]

For your segmented rings, a drum sander is a better choice, IMHO. The forces present in a planer could very well rip them apart.

[Alex Zeller]

Right now I'm using my neighbors 30" planer with Tersa blades. While it's great it's not mine, not at my shop, and blades for it aren't that expensive but when you are using something that doesn't belong to you (and you value what people think about you) you try to leave their tools in at least as good of shape afterwards. I can only imagine how I would feel if I went to use my planer and found the blades dull. Dull is subjective to a point. Some people have higher standards.

So I really would like a planer in my shop. A drum sander is something I'll wait until I find a used one. I see open end sanders for sale often enough where I should be able to get one. I assume people buy them thinking they will do the job of a planer and realizing that they are not a planer. Or they buy it and then realize they want to upgrade to a dual drum Or even a wide belt sander.

I have a sanding disc attachment for my lathe that's 20" in diameter so I can sand them. But I have no way, other than by eye, to keep the rings a consistent thickness. If I'm just doing a light pass to finish them it wouldn't be a problem. I hadn't thought about the rings not staying together. Like most people we have to make compromises until we get to the point where we have all the tools we want. The rings were one way to justify the extra cost of the insert head (noise is another reason).

[Andy D Jones]

Never really thought about it, but if you can mount the individual rings on the lathe, then could you turn them flat/straight? Maybe with a jig...? Probably a good application for carbide tools.

Andy - Arlington TX