Take the gloss off silicone

[Tom Bender]

We are having new countertops installed. They will have a bead of silicone in the corner. This is going to show up as a glossy streak against the blue/grey corian. Is there a way to take the gloss off it?

The welded option is another $940 so that's not going to happen.

[Jim Becker]

Properly applied, that bead should be almost not discernable...the tiniest line, if at all. And why do they want so much money for using solvent to join the panels?

[Frank Pratt]

A top quality installer will use masking tape before applying the silicone and as Jim says, it should just be a very fine line.

Jim, I've never seen them solvent weld Corian, it's always been epoxy.

[Gary Ragatz]

We have Corian vanity tops in our bathrooms, and the backsplashes are sealed with what I think is silicone caulk (clear). It's pretty inconspicuous.

There is silicone caulk on the market that is not glossy:

http://colorriteinc.com/color-sil

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I've never seen them solvent weld Corian, it's always been epoxy.

My understanding is that fabrication of Corian solid surface material can be "seamless" by using the correct product for things like lamination and joining sections, but I have not taken the training. My Corian authorization is only for purchasing for things like sign work so I was waived from the commercial training.

[Frank Pratt]

My understanding is that fabrication of Corian solid surface material can be "seamless" by using the correct product for things like lamination and joining sections, but I have not taken the training. My Corian authorization is only for purchasing for things like sign work so I was waived from the commercial training.

My only experience has been seeing it installed a few times & a color matched epoxy was used. Solvent welding may well be another method of joining.

[Jim Becker]

A clear example of the solvent process would be an integrated sink...there is no joint at all when it's been fabricated.

[Mike Kees]

Translucent silicone is your friend. Blends to the color behind it,dries opaque ,not glossy. You could test on a small spot and see if this will do what you want. I use it all the time on kitchen counters with plastic laminate.

[Joe Hendershott]

Properly applied, that bead should be almost not discernable...the tiniest line, if at all. And why do they want so much money for using solvent to join the panels?
Perhaps they mean a back splash that has a cove that eliminates the seam? It does add quite a bit of labor and the specialized router so would indeed add a lot. You really do not want a 90 degree bonded corner there, no point in it.

[Jim Becker]

I think that regardless of the material used to fix together the surface and what sounds like a backsplash, the fabricator should be able to make the adhesive "not visible". If they are using, say, silicone adhesive, properly masking it off and cleaning it up should result in a joint that's barely, if at all, visible. If they just run their finger down the joint to "clean" it...well...that's not good workmanship.

[Mark Bolton]

I think that regardless of the material used to fix together the surface and what sounds like a backsplash, the fabricator should be able to make the adhesive "not visible". If they are using, say, silicone adhesive, properly masking it off and cleaning it up should result in a joint that's barely, if at all, visible. If they just run their finger down the joint to "clean" it...well...that's not good workmanship.

Ive been running a fair amount of solid surface lately. As Frank says, its 2 part epoxy, and it definitely makes for a seamless end result. The cost of a coved backplash is because the backsplash has to be bonded to the counter surface and a filler is included in the cove then you have a special coving router where the router runs at a 45 degree angle on a shoe tha cuts the radius at the base of the backsplash. Its a very very accurate affair and expensive for the commercial router shoe setup to cut the cove and remember you will more than likely have to cove to an inside corner often times, even more difficult.

After all that, you most often times cant machine sand the cove after its machined with the router so you are talking lots and lots of hand work through all the grits, scotch brite, and polishing (if its not a matte job). The hand work cost a fortune.

I agree though, sounds like the contractor ran a pretty hefty bead at the splash. When I run loose splash its siliconed to the wall with a bead at the counter between the splash and the top and then the tip is cut very small at a point and a very tiny bead is run between in the corner.

It will dull over time but if its big....