Drill Press--Is bigger better?

[Jim Peck]

I seem to always be toying with the idea of getting a bigger drill press. Why? Maybe I just suffer from "Tool Time" disease--always wanting more power!

Comparing, say, a 12" press to a 20", the bigger press will have a larger motor giving more power for drilling through bigger stock, larger swing and stroke--which are all positives in my book.

But are there advantages to a smaller drill press? Obviously, for those who don't have the floor space the size is an obvious drawback to a larger press, but I'm more concerned with performance advantages or disadvantages.

So, I thought it would be a fun topic to throw into the Creek for discussion: Assuming presses of equal quality (Powermatic vs Powermatic, or Harbor Freight vs Harbor Freight depending on your budget), and ignoring the bells and whistles of one model vs another (like whether Jet or Delta has a laser or better depth stop mechanism) is bigger always better? Based on performance alone, why might someone prefer a smaller press to a larger press?

Thanks,

Jim

[Matt Day]

Spends on what work you do. If you make Christmas ornaments and toys for kids, a smaller DP would be fine.

Bigger is better in this case for majority of people. Same with a jointer, planer, etc.

[John K Jordan]

Things about larger drill presses, some you have noted:
They are sometimes sturdier.
They sometimes have a greater quill depth.
They sometimes have more powerful motors
They sometimes have a better depth stop and better locks

I currently have two Delta drill presses, one a benchtop and one a free-standing floor model. Both are very sturdy and equivalent in power and table.

The floor model has the advantage of a longer quill which allows me to drill deeper holes, and the long support column allows moving the table way down.

The benchtop takes up far more space than the floor model since I mounted it on an old kitchen cabinet base with a 2x2' footprint. The cabinet provides a drawer and shelves behind a door for supplies. The floor model has a small footprint but has zero storage space which is a disadvantage.

JKJ



...
So, I thought it would be a fun topic to throw into the Creek for discussion: Assuming presses of equal quality (Powermatic vs Powermatic, or Harbor Freight vs Harbor Freight depending on your budget), and ignoring the bells and whistles of one model vs another (like whether Jet or Delta has a laser or better depth stop mechanism) is bigger always better? Based on performance alone, why might someone prefer a smaller press to a larger press?

[Randy Heinemann]

For me, at this point in my life, buying a new, improved, or larger tool usually depends on whether I've encountered situations where my current tool just doesn't work. Those situations need to be frequent or at least regular enough and I can't find another way to do the work. Otherwise there is no point in upgrading if the existing tool works for you. Again, though, this is what works for me now. It's a viewpoint that isn't as much fun as buying a new tool, but it's really much more practical and sensible for me as then I can buy great tools that I really have a need for when the situation arises.

[John Makar]

I have a 12" Delta that rides on a tool chest, it handles ~95% of my needs. My small shop couldn't fit anything bigger, but with jigs and add-ons that also get used for other things, I can pretty much handle the remaining ~5%. There have been times when I was working on kitchen fit-ins when the ability to just wheel the tool chest and press around was fabulous. The more important purchase in my mind is a good quality drill press table. I bought the Precision knock off (by WoodPecker) of the WoodPecker, and it has paid for itself hundreds of times over.

If I have a really long piece that I need to drill on end I put it in my Moxon, clamped to my workbench, and use an alignment tool like a Dowel-it jig, and a variable speed hand drill. Mine is an older Delta, has a couple of my adaptations, including a height adjustment from a completely different press/company, which make it ridiculously nice for my shop. The only thing I'd add today is the neat digital variable speed options so I don't have to mess with pulleys and belts, but the difficulty in that is way overstated, conversion takes a couple of minutes max.

[lowell holmes]

I bought this one and I am happy with it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-3-2-Amp-5-Speed-Bench-Drill-Press/1000183105?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-129-_-benchtoptools-_-1000183105-_-0&store_code=2821&placeholder=null&gclid=CjwKCAiAyeTxBRBvEiwAuM8dnRKqZkdnnd2BQC2j384z CXENO78aNBRSvpRX3WzwibwkyTUFGk84mhoCsRQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Andrew More]

I agree with Randy. What problem are you attempting to solve? How much space do you have to store the tool.

Generally speaking, most drill presses will have enough quill depth to drill holes through most materials. Much about 3" of travel, and you're likely going to be needing longer bits anyway.

That having been said, anything that spins up, and moves parallel to the table holding the work is going to be sufficient. In fact I saw an interesting article a while back suggesting that the benchtop version of the drill press is more than sufficient for most woodworkers. The floor models usually only become useful if you've got something really long you want to drill a hole into, that you cannot drill with a cordless drill.

About the only improvement over makes parallel holes I've seen recently are the infinity variable Nova drill presses, but even then I don't think it's work the additional price for my uses.

[Bill Dufour]

My Walker Turner 20 " DP has a one hp motor and a 3/4" chuck. 6" stroke is nice and the feel is as good as a smaller one. The big chuck will not grip below 1/8" so I mount a smaller one on a hex arbor when needed.
Bill D.

[Darcy Warner]

My Cincinnati camel back sees the most use in my shop, but I have 5 others scattered throughout.

[Bill Space]

I have a small bench top 10" drill press I use sometimes.

A Shopsmith (16") that I really like for wood working, that I use most of the time. Also works for horizontal boring.

And a 20" that I use for metal mostly, and woodworking almost none of the time...

In my case if I could only have one for woodworking, I would keep the Shopsmith in my home shop.

[Roger Feeley]

To respond to the original question, there is no relationship between size and quality. I have a Cameron drill press (https://cmdpdirect.com/) that is very accurate. The chuck is limited to 5/32". It doesn't have a quill. The whole motor and head moves up and down the post a couple of inches at most. Runout is guaranteed to something like .0002". I think it's three spindle speeds, all screaming fast because of the tiny bits.

But yeah, if the drill press is big, it tends to be more expensive, have more cast iron and may be more accurate. My other drill press, a 17" Craftsman was made back when they were still using up cast iron from old battleships. It's plenty good for general woodworking.

[Andrew More]

But yeah, if the drill press is big, it tends to be more expensive, have more cast iron and may be more accurate. My other drill press, a 17" Craftsman was made back when they were still using up cast iron from old battleships. It's plenty good for general woodworking.

That's what I've got, I see them on Craigslist all the time for like $100. I honestly don't see much value in buying a new drill press when there are so many readily available in the used market.

[Jim Becker]

Bigger DPs tend to have deeper throat depth and longer throw of the quill for deeper drilling. If that's desirable, then go big. If you never anticipate needing to get into the middle of a larger workpiece or need to drill very deeply, something more modest may suffice.

[Mike Kees]

I have two drill presses at my shop ,one on the metal end and one in the wood shop ,both 14''machines. I have never felt the need for anything bigger.

[Tom Dixon]

Things that are important on a drill press to me:

minimal run out
digital variable speed
quill stroke
throat depth
automatic depth stop
precision movement of the table up and down with zero deflection

I achieved the first 5 items with with my 18" Nova Voyager. I highly recommend it.
The 6th item seems elusive.

[Andy D Jones]

Things that are important on a drill press to me:

minimal run out
digital variable speed
quill stroke
throat depth
automatic depth stop
precision movement of the table up and down with zero deflection

I achieved the first 5 items with with my 18" Nova Voyager. I highly recommend it.
The 6th item seems elusive.

And until recently, those first 5 items were exclusively available in a floor model DP.

Now Nova has come out with the Viking benchtop DP, with those qualities (albeit slightly smaller 16" swing and 4.5" stroke).

I already have (and like very much) the Voyager, but if I didn't have it, it might not be a slam dunk over the Viking. Given its smaller (by ~33%) price tag, I see it as a potentially attractive option for some buyers.

As for the floor space argument (including the cabinet the benchtop model is mounted on, vs the storage cabinet for the floor model's accessories), I have seen several uses of small cabinets on casters that straddle the base of the floor model DP.

Andy - Arlington TX

[Don Sundberg]

Things that are important on a drill press to me:

minimal run out
digital variable speed
quill stroke
throat depth
automatic depth stop
precision movement of the table up and down with zero deflection

I achieved the first 5 items with with my 18" Nova Voyager. I highly recommend it.
The 6th item seems elusive.

That last one generally requires a mill. You would need to find a drill press with v-ways for the table or head adjustment.

[John K Jordan]

Things that are important on a drill press to me:

minimal run out
digital variable speed
quill stroke
throat depth
automatic depth stop
precision movement of the table up and down with zero deflection

I achieved the first 5 items with with my 18" Nova Voyager. I highly recommend it.
The 6th item seems elusive.

The size and weight of the frame and table machine makes a lot of difference for your item #6.

I don't know if anyone mentioned it but you might look into a used mill drill. They are a cross between a drill press and a milling machine and sometimes available used at a reasonable cost. I have a small milling machine and am rebuilding a much larger Rong Fu mill drill with new bearings and such - a friend bought two for very little money and gave me the spare. The mill drill is "stout" and heavy, using a lot of cast iron - I had to use a fork lift to get it into the shop. Unlike milling macine have a motor head similar to a drill press which rotates on a column with precision x,y, and z motion and an xy table so heavy I can barely lift it. The table doesn't move but the head does. The only down side compared to a mid-range mill is if you rotate the head you lose the precision alignment relative to the table, the same as a drill press. The quill length is enough so the head rarely needs to be move for a specific project. It's certainly not a Bridgeport but capable of all the precision I'll ever need.

425245 425246 425247

It does take up more space than a drill press. I bought a Saw Stop industrial mobile base with hydraulic so I can move it as needed.

JKJ

[Bill Dufour]

And a mill has a drawbar so you can use. a collet and do milling in wood or metal safely, unlike DP.
Bill D

[Tom Dixon]

The reason I listed #6 is because it is unobtanium in the drill press world and it really shouldn't be. It is not that hard to engineer a table that will raise and lower without deflection. A two column design with a precision rack and pinion like used in CNC machines would do it. The problem is that it raises the overall cost and the manufacturers don't think we woodworkers would pay for it. I would have readily paid more.

I realize I could get a mill but that is not the real issue. All the advancements in drill press head DVR technology is great but why sick it on a sub par platform designed a century or more ago.

[Jim Becker]

Tom, the interesting thing is that the design of most drill presses seems to be more originally focused on metal working, yet the "wishy-washy" table setup remains in full force nearly across the board. And I agree that it's something that's very solvable, although it might raise cost a little.

[Larry Edgerton]

I downsized from an industrial Walker Turner to a 20" two speed Clausing with Reeves Drive. Have not missed the larger drill press.:)

The table on the Clausing is perfect, rock solid and the lower/raise mechanism is precise. No wishy/washy. If patient a perfect machine can be found for about a grand. I added a VFD and can get it down to about 5 rpm if need be, and sometimes get it close to that when drilling plastic. Only thing I miss on the old Walker is the power feed/tapping capability.

[Tom Dixon]

...If patient a perfect machine can be found for about a grand...

In 5 years of looking in my area not a single Clausing DP has shown up in CL or FBMP or any estate or business closing sales in the area where I live. Your statement is totally dependent on location and perfect timing and even then there just not enough used ones for everyone that might be interested. The used market has really dried up everywhere and most of what I see for sale is over priced and not in very good shape. Unless there is a huge recession the used market is not likely to get any better and I wouldn't wish a recession on any of us.

There is a gap in the market for someone to offer a better drill press or if Teknatool is smart they will build a better engineered stand for their Nova DVR DP heads. Or, I don't know, maybe there is and after market product opportunity here for someone.

[Andy D Jones]

Tom, the interesting thing is that the design of most drill presses seems to be more originally focused on metal working, yet the "wishy-washy" table setup remains in full force nearly across the board. And I agree that it's something that's very solvable, although it might raise cost a little.

Drill press machines flourished in factories, where the same operation was repeated over and over again. Thus job fixtures were developed for whatever precision location was needed, and the drill press itself did not need the precision location capability. Switch jobs? Switch fixtures. The time for fixture alignment is amortized across all of the parts in that batch, so expensive machine features were not needed to speed up the alignment time.

If you add an X-Y (compound slide) table, for a couple hundred bucks, bolt it to the DP table with the X axis at a right angle to the table tilt axis, then tilt the table 90 degrees (so now the X axis on the XY table is parallel to the drill axis,) that would add X inches to the "precision" depth movement. And that X-Y table is much more useful than two columns.

There is already one twin column drill press: the Shopsmith, even available with most of the same features as the Voyager.

Andy - Arlington TX

[Tom Dixon]

Drill press machines flourished in factories, where the same operation was repeated over and over again. Thus job fixtures were developed for whatever precision location was needed, and the drill press itself did not need the precision location capability. Switch jobs? Switch fixtures. The time for fixture alignment is amortized across all of the parts in that batch, so expensive machine features were not needed to speed up the alignment time.

If you add an X-Y (compound slide) table, for a couple hundred bucks, bolt it to the DP table with the X axis at a right angle to the table tilt axis, then tilt the table 90 degrees (so now the X axis on the XY table is parallel to the drill axis,) that would add X inches to the "precision" depth movement. And that X-Y table is much more useful than two columns.

There is already one twin column drill press: the Shopsmith, even available with most of the same features as the Voyager.

Andy - Arlington TX

Yeah the historical DP use in factories is an interesting perspective but that doesn't really exist much any more in today's world of CNC robotic manufacturing. I'm certainly not interested in taking up valuable shop space with multiple drill presses and Your idea for turning an X-Y table 90 degrees doesn't work for me because it won't give a large Table surface to work on, but you have now got me thing about how to add a Z axis to my Totally Insane, Ridiculously Over Engineered, X-Y T-Track DRO Drill Press Table (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?279911-Totally-Insane-Ridiculously-Over-Engineered-X-Y-T-Track-DRO-Drill-Press-Table). I've mostly been thinking along the lines of stabilizing the the existing table with outrigger guide rails and but a Z axis on my X-Y Table may just solve my issue.

I'm really not interested in a Shopsmith. However, I still think there is a potential market for a better drill press overall considering how well Teknatool is doing with the Nova Voyager/Viking drill presses. Maybe I should just design what I think is needed and just start a business. I'm really not wanting to start one though. That's too much like work.

[Jim Peck]

In 5 years of looking in my area not a single Clausing DP has shown up in CL or FBMP or any estate or business closing sales in the area where I live. Your statement is totally dependent on location and perfect timing and even then there just not enough used ones for everyone that might be interested. The used market has really dried up everywhere and most of what I see for sale is over priced and not in very good shape. Unless there is a huge recession the used market is not likely to get any better and I wouldn't wish a recession on any of us.

You post reminded me of a CL listing I saw today. Here's a Clausing (at least most of a Clausing--no base) on Craigslist in Baltimore:

"https://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/d/hunt-valley-clausing-drill-press-head/7065426701.html"

That's a bit of a drive from TN, but if you really want a Clausing it may be worthwhile. No base, but it looks like most everything else is there, plus a bit of free rust. It looks like he was asking $750, and now is taking best offer by Feb 15.

I have no affiliation with the seller. Just thought it might be interesting to someone.

[Larry Edgerton]

Nice find Jim. I see bases only for sale quite often. I had to travel to get mine, but I like to travel. New 20's without the two speed are about $5600, two speeds around $7000. I can't justify that. I took a dial indicator and precision square with me and it was as close to perfect as a woodworker needs, and $1100, I'm happy. I have a mill as well, but they are not drill presses. You can tie your shoes with mittens on, but why?:)

[Andy D Jones]

So you need large X, Y and Z...?!

Sounds intriguing...

IINM, most CNC WW machines are fairly limited in Z axis travel, at least compared to X & Y, aren't they?

And how much of their Z is typically in the gantry travel, as opposed to the quill travel? At CNC cutter speeds, I'll bet more of the former, and less of the latter.

Andy - Arlington TX

[Bill Jobe]

If I was looking for one drill for a shop it would probably be a broken arm. They take very little floor space and are very versatile.

But, as I mentioned on another thread, I'm still getting over the flu, so.....my brain is still a bit disconnected.n

[Tom Dixon]

So you need large X, Y and Z...?!

Sounds intriguing...

IINM, most CNC WW machines are fairly limited in Z axis travel, at least compared to X & Y, aren't they?

And how much of their Z is typically in the gantry travel, as opposed to the quill travel? At CNC cutter speeds, I'll bet more of the former, and less of the latter.

Andy - Arlington TX

I now have the x and Y now but reliable Z travel of the Drill press table is what I desire. The problem with the table design of my Voyager is that as soon as you release the table and use the crank it deflects from its position in relationship to the bit which is a PIA if all you need to do is lower the table just enough to put in a long bit like going from a short 1.5" forstner to a long 1/2" brad point. I want the bit change to remain perfectly aligned and that currently doesn't happen a lot of the time. I have to un-clamp the work and realign it to the new bit.

[Tom Dixon]

You post reminded me of a CL listing I saw today. Here's a Clausing (at least most of a Clausing--no base) on Craigslist in Baltimore:

"https://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/d/hunt-valley-clausing-drill-press-head/7065426701.html"

That's a bit of a drive from TN, but if you really want a Clausing it may be worthwhile. No base, but it looks like most everything else is there, plus a bit of free rust. It looks like he was asking $750, and now is taking best offer by Feb 15.

I have no affiliation with the seller. Just thought it might be interesting to someone.

Hmmm... I haven't been specifically looking for a Clausing and that probably is a great deal but that's a long way to go for an incomplete DP and getting there by the 15th just isn't going to happen. The fact that he hasn't sold it locally makes me wonder why if it really is a good deal. I was actually pointing out that some areas just don't see that kind of equipment on CL or local auctions ever.

[Andy D Jones]

Tom,

Is the 1/2" hole a through hole?

Could you drill the 1/2" hole first, then leave it in the hole to guide the table while raising the table?

Then remove the 1/2" bit (out the bottom of the through hole), insert the Forstner bit, and drill that hole last? A Forstner bit, especially in a DP, does not need the center to guide, it will guide on the rim.

Andy - Arlington TX

[Tom Dixon]

Tom,

Is the 1/2" hole a through hole?

Could you drill the 1/2" hole first, then leave it in the hole to guide the table while raising the table?

Then remove the 1/2" bit (out the bottom of the through hole), insert the Forstner bit, and drill that hole last? A Forstner bit, especially in a DP, does not need the center to guide, it will guide on the rim.

Andy - Arlington TX

Andy, that was an example. I'm not specifically trying to solve that one problem. I'm making a point that I should not have come up with workarounds to maintain the bit center over a previous hole if the mechanism to raise and lower the drill press table was properly engineered to stay aligned. The overall problem is greater than a single instance on a specific drill press. The mechanism to raise and lower a DP has not evolved in the last 100 years to be really any better at all and I think it should.