Complete set of Lie Nielsen bench planes

[Thomas Wilson]

Some aficionados here haunt the antique auction sites. Some buy premium brands, either Lie-Nielsen or Veritas. Some buy functional knock-offs, like Wood River. Some buy seriously inexpensive hard to tune brands. I fell in with Lie-Nielsen 20 years ago and have been satisfied with the quality overall. So the question I want to discuss is the “complete set”. What do you consider to be the complete set of whatever camp of tools you adhere to? I am a 2, 5 1/2, and 8 short of a complete set of LN bench planes. I need 2 or 3 block planes for a similar complete set, maybe 2 joinery planes. I need a smoother and a jointer from the bevel up group. After a while, it is like coin or stamp collecting, filling out the set. Do you succumb to the collection-addiction or do you claim some super power?

[Patrick Walsh]

I’m susceptible to collecting.

But you know I use my tools daily also to make a living. Some more than others.

Hand tools namely planes I have resisted collecting. The collector in me feels much like you do. Tormented to not round out what I have. Truth be told I use the #4 smoother the most the the socket head chisels. Believe it or not they are my beaters. We’ll beaters kept perfectly sharp I’ll also use for semi risky tasks or let travel out of the shop.

The LN stuff is great as good as it needs to be and highly functional. I also have a number of Japanese tools, planes, nomi hammers and some vesper stuff. None leaves my home shop other than the vesper squares. I keep them all razor sharp for when you need something extra sharp and extra perfect and don’t wanna stop to sharpen.

I bet someday I have one of everything LN but probably not as being a machine woodworker I’m never gonna use a jack plane.


Some aficionados here haunt the antique auction sites. Some buy premium brands, either Lie-Nielsen or Veritas. Some buy functional knock-offs, like Wood River. Some buy seriously inexpensive hard to tune brands. I fell in with Lie-Nielsen 20 years ago and have been satisfied with the quality overall. So the question I want to discuss is the “complete set”. What do you consider to be the complete set of whatever camp of tools you adhere to? I am a 2, 5 1/2, and 8 short of a complete set of LN bench planes. I need 2 or 3 block planes for a similar complete set, maybe 2 joinery planes. I need a smoother and a jointer from the bevel up group. After a while, it is like coin or stamp collecting, filling out the set. Do you succumb to the collection-addiction or do you claim some super power?

[Dominik Dudkiewicz]

I also have/have had a problem with slowly acquiring more handplanes than I need. A mix of Lie Nielsen and Veritas as well as HNT Gordon stuff like hollows and rounds, side-rebate, snipe-bill, etc - planes not available as LN or LV. I use most of them but could get away with a lesser number.

I have gone through periods of mild anxiety about the appropriateness of owning so many and at first I thought it was due to the high cost / monetary investment. Upon deep reflection I think the real reason I felt a bit embarrassed to buy more was that there is a real cost to the planet of utilising more scarce natural resources than required, which has very little to do with the arbitrary monetary cost. I realised that to minimise my footprint I should; try to limit my holdings, take very good care of what I do own so it never has to be replaced and can be passed on to someone else in the future (thus not being consumed and wasting the resourced to make it), and buy high quality that lasts much longer and has a lower cost to the planet than cheap tools that need to be replaced more often. For example the real cost of a $20- hardware store saw may be the same as a $500- badaxe 'lifetime' saw that I can also resharpen and will be meticulously looked after.

I guess my point is, even if I can monetarily afford it, I will try to resist buying more. If I do, then I will look after whatever I get and sell/pass it on when I no longer want it - thus effectively renting the resources not consuming them.

Sorry I didn't mean to preach and I am certainly guilty of over-indulging in tools. I do try to minimise my impact in other, more resource intensive, areas like cars, fuel, flying, meat, clothes etc though. No judgement on anyone else whatsoever - I'd be an absolute hipocrite if I did.

Oh, and the addiction is real. I do want to add a 4 1/2 or 3 despite having a perfectly good LN bronze 4 (although I think i'd prefer an iron). I will try to resist. I certainly don't think anyone needs the set from a functional perspective. I think you only 'need' 1 smoother, maybe a second tuned for final smoothing or figured timber, 1 jack (5 or 5 1/2) and 1 jointer (7 or 8), and a block plane, maybe a bench rebate. Then a large shoulder, plow, skew rebate, router, T&G (pair) and maybe a dado plane. If doing moulding then also hollows and rounds etc. So still quite a few lol, but not the whole set.

Whatever you end up with, use them, enjoy them, look after them, and pass them on/sell them when you don't IMO.

Cheers, Dom

[Scott Winners]

I have been able to mostly resist, but I do hear the siren song. Mostly I have a beginner complete set of stuff and am only adding things as I need them for a specific task. But I also just picked up a really nice 5 1/2 Bailey that will be ready to go in maybe thirty minutes if I ever need a 5 1/2. I have a 5 and a 6, and a 4 1/2 but it was a really good price and it doesn't need much beyond wax and hone, and I haven't seen a single other 5 1/2 in Fairbanks before, so I am not immune. The 5 1/2 was a very good price on the local market for the small amount of work it will require. If I find a good deal on a 7 or 8 I will probably get it, but I don't need both and I am not looking for a resto project.

If you can afford it without getting worried about being homeless before your 401k runs out, go ahead. If you do complete a set, maybe let your executor know to contact Jim Bode or Patrick Leach or similar before letting your collection go for a song at a posthumous yard sale. I am not the only man afraid my widow might sell off all my toys for what she thinks I paid for them.

[Jim Koepke]

There is an LN #2 currently listed in SMC Classifieds.

It is more of a collector piece signed, numbered with rosewood handles.

My 'accumulation' has been mostly Stanley/Bailey planes. My first LN plane was a #1 because of the price difference of an original Stanley/Bailey.

425188

All the sizes from a #1 through a #8 are there. There is also a #10-1/2 and a LN #62 plus block planes and over on the left there are molding planes. There has also been a drawer added on the left since this image was taken.

There are a few more planes on a bench to the left in this image.

It can be habit forming.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

To me, a complete set is a kit that all get used and cover all the bases. Until a couple three years ago, I had an abundance of vintage planes and many that never got used. I found myself wanting occasionally, but for reasons of utility. I divested myself of most of them and assembled a proper user kit based on what I did with them. At this point:

LN #102, LV #60 1/2, Stanley #3, LN #4 Bronze, LN #4 1/2, LN #62, Stanley #7, and a Veritas Shooting Plane. All get used regularly and no changes are planned for now other than maybe exchanging my Stanley #3 for a LN Bronze version.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a complete set of #1 through #7, of various brands and ages. I have 2 block planes and several specialy planes. I'd like to own an LN #2 and an LN #4. But since I already have a perfectly functional "lesser brand" of each, so far, I have been able to resist. But I definitely understand the collector impulse.

[David Carroll]

I'm not really a collector. I've been an accumulator though, in the past. Just recently I've been thinning the herd down to what are the essentials, at least for me. I've moved my entire shop into a storage unit and set up a small room as a hand-tool-only shop in my new apartment. The first thing I decided to do is build a Dutch Tool Chest. As I build in, I bring from storage only the tools I need for each given operation, breaking down boards, surfacing, cutting to size, joinery, assembly and trimming, etc..

For bench planes (so far) I've brought over a No. 4, (LN) No. 5 Stanley, and a No. 7 Stanley.

For specialty planes I brought a Scrub (LV) 2 Block Planes- a Stanley 18 and a LN (102), a set of Matched Planes (T&G) by Clark and Williams, a large shoulder plane (LN) and a Stanley Router Plane.

To me, for general case work that's pretty much all I'll need. Except for a Stanley 78 that I'll bring home soon for fielding panels.

These are the planes that I'll store in the chest. The rest remain in storage. I have a pretty full set of Stanley bench planes still there, along with a lot of wooden planes and other specialty planes I bought while I was accumulating. I'll likely get rid a bunch of them eventually.

DC

[Jim Matthews]

When you have only a path wide enough to enter, but not turn around - sell the extra stuff.

When your bench becomes storage, because the shelves are full - sell the extra stuff.

When you buy a duplicate of a tool you forgot you already owned - sell the extra stuff.

A #4, jointer and 3/4" shoulder plane will manage most tasks on flat projects.

I took a few basic training courses to discover what few tools are really needed. In that setting I met plenty of newbies with expensive kit they never actually used.

This question often arises - it has been covered repeatedly in this forum.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?102705-Help-me-with-quot-essential-quot-hand-planes

[Prashun Patel]

For me, the bare minimum would be 4,5,7, low angle block, and a flat bottom spokeshave.

Then, router and shoulder plane.

I suppose it depends what you make a lot. I am slowly learning the virtues of a draw knife. I think it'd be higher on the pecking order if I could sharpen them easier.

[Dominik Dudkiewicz]

For me, the bare minimum would be 4,5,7, low angle block, and a flat bottom spokeshave.

Then, router and shoulder plane.

I suppose it depends what you make a lot. I am slowly learning the virtues of a draw knife. I think it'd be higher on the pecking order if I could sharpen them easier.

Maybe look into the Galbert draw sharp. It makea sharpening a draw knife really quick and easy.

Cheers, Dom

[Jim Koepke]

I took a few basic training courses to discover what few tools are really needed. In that setting I met plenty of newbies with expensive kit they never actually used.

There are different trains of thought on this.

The wisest may be to only buy the tools you need as you need them. This is especially kind to one's wallet and spousal relations.

One that is kind of fun is to purchase every tool one can and try to avoid too many duplicates as long as one can see a logical use for it.

If one is going to specialize in a particular field such as building chairs then their need for molding planes and dovetail saws is next to nonexistent.

If one wants to build cabinets and picture frames they likely do not need a travisher or a scorp.

My tendency is to purchase tools that will get used or can be sold at a profit. Though my tool selling hasn't been very active lately.

Not too many of my tools go without being used.

jtk

[Greg Parrish]

I don’t think it’s a problem unless you’re one of those that freaks out at the idea of tossing the box. LOL

i have 6 LN planes so far and a set of bench chisels and tossed all the boxes as when I bought them I planned to use them. I’d like a few more items but don’t feel the need for every plane. To each their own though. :)

[Rob Luter]

I don’t think it’s a problem unless you’re one of those that freaks out at the idea of tossing the box. LOL

i have 6 LN planes so far and a set of bench chisels and tossed all the boxes as when I bought them I planned to use them. I’d like a few more items but don’t feel the need for every plane. To each their own though. :)

I keep all my boxes :o. If I ever have to move they'll make for great packing material.

[Greg Parrish]

I keep all my boxes :o. If I ever have to move they'll make for great packing material.

Rob, I know you’re not alone and I was only teasing you. I’m probably the minority for tossing mine but i do find it interesting how folks focus on the box for LN stuff. Guess some see resell value and others more practical needs like storage or moving. I simply didn’t have space to keep all my boxes. :)

[Bob Jones 5443]

For me, the bare minimum would be 4,5,7, low angle block, and a flat bottom spokeshave.

Then, router and shoulder plane.

I suppose it depends what you make a lot. I am slowly learning the virtues of a draw knife. I think it'd be higher on the pecking order if I could sharpen them easier.

That’s close to exactly what I have: L-N 4-1/2, Bailey 5-1/2, Bed Rock 607, Stanley block plane, Stanley No. 71 router plane, Stanley No. 151 and 151R, and a Boggs curved spokeshave. Plus a Stanley No. 80 cabinet scraper. If I can’t do I with those, it doesn’t need to get done.

I was dancing around the notion of getting a shoulder plane, but I work slowly and I can do what it does with chisels. So I think that’s going to be it for a while.

[Derek Cohen]

I was dancing around the notion of getting a shoulder plane, but I work slowly and I can do what it does with chisels.

Shoulder planes are wonderful ... not so much for tenon shoulders, but for rebates. You can plane a rebate (no fence needed) and, especially, you can fine tune a rebate - squaring it up.


L-N 4-1/2, Bailey 5-1/2, Bed Rock 607

You must be a big guy. I am not starting with you! :)

I would compliment the #4 1/2 with a small smoother. My preference is a #3.

The #5 1/2 was made popular by David Charlesworth as a "super smoother". I think of it as a panel plane, in the same league as a #4 1/2 ... in other words, for large panels. It is too heavy for me to use as a jack plane (although I did once upon a time. It was my main user about 30 years ago). A #5 is much lighter and capable (me a lightweight like me) of planing for lengthy periods. Try one as well as a #3 or #4.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

Google "Stanley Bedrock Planes".
I bought a set online dome years ago.

https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Bedrock/13874/bn_55192957

[Bob Jones 5443]

Shoulder planes are wonderful ... not so much for tenon shoulders, but for rebates. You can plane a rebate (no fence needed) and, especially, you can fine tune a rebate - squaring it up.



You must be a big guy. I am not starting with you! :)

I would compliment the #4 1/2 with a small smoother. My preference is a #3.

The #5 1/2 was made popular by David Charlesworth as a "super smoother". I think of it as a panel plane, in the same league as a #4 1/2 ... in other words, for large panels. It is too heavy for me to use as a jack plane (although I did once upon a time. It was my main user about 30 years ago). A #5 is much lighter and capable (me a lightweight like me) of planing for lengthy periods. Try one as well as a #3 or #4.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, you found me out. I spent a week with David Charlesworth last year and caught the Super Smoother bug. That led to the 5-1/2 and the 607. Funny, I haven’t stopped to think the planes are too big or too heavy. The 5-1/2 weighs about what the L-N 4-1/2 weighs. The 607 is for long boards. But I’ve been mostly involved with medium-sized cabinets. I can see if I turned to small boxes, I might make good use of a No. 3.

[Joshua Lucas]

Eventually I'd like to make myself a complete set of woodies. So far I've got a jack (#5 sized) and a smoother (#3 sized). I've also got a jointer (2" wide iron x 26" long), but it has some flaws that may or may not be correctable. In addition to those I'd like a panel/try plane (#7 sized) and an infill shooting plane like David Weaver's. Maybe a fore plane (#6) too. Oh, and a Japanese-style chamfer plane.

[Rafael Herrera]

My opinion is that if you have the money, go for it. However, labeling other brands as knock-offs shows a kind of prejudice on your part. LN planes are heavier copies of the bedrock design, it's debatable if that makes them superior to new or vintage Bailey pattern planes or why one wouldn't call them knock-offs as well. I can see how the maker may try to market his heavier highly engineered plane as better, but that just appeals to emotion, not practicality. I personally am not convinced that I really need a plane like these, or spend money like this on a single tool, in order to get good work done. Now, if you really want to invest on a premium plane, why not drop $3000 or $4000 on a Bill Carter plane? ;-)

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Started with #5 1/4, then a second #5 1/4, added a #4 and a corrugated #6. Slightly different lengths and widths means no reinforcements of irregularities. A #39 1/2" dado plane and a #20 circular plane, was unsure of the #20 but got it at a good price and have been using it more than expected. Much prefer the older pre WWII planes, cast iron gets harder over time, don't care too much about bronze or ductile steel.

Thought hard about having two #5 1/4 but with one I would have to change the blades too often which would be irritating.

[Thomas Wilson]

Hi all. I apolgize for neglecting my own thread. I appreciate all the replies. The gist of my question was what satisfies your particular sense of a "complete set" more as a collection than as set for working toolbox. To my mind and in my intention, the question is a bit frivolous and mocks my own need to have a "complete set" when a essential subset is more practical and not very limiting in actual practice. I confess to not being too serious a woodworker. Forgive me. That does not mean that I spend less time or less care than others here just that I acknowledge my own excesses in the pursuit with a sense of good humor.

The question arose in my mind before Christmas when my wife, janicewhokeepsmehumble, asked what tools I wanted. So I mentioned that I was close to having all the Lie-Nielsen bench planes. She ordered a #3. Some time later but still before Christmas, when my grandson (4yrs) was trying to make some shavings in the Cave, it seemed that getting a #1 for us to share in the shop was a good idea. JWKMH beebopped over to Highland Woodworking and picked one up. (For those who are keeping score on the set, I have 1, 3, 4, 4 1/2, 5, 6, and 7 in the standard bevel down bench planes. I also have a LN low angle jack which is functionally in the bench plane category. ) After Christmas, grandson and granddaughter (8 yrs) were both in the shop making shavings. Grandson happily took charge of the #1, dismissed all offers of help, and planed some nice shavings off the edge of a 1/2 board. Granddaughter would have none of that. She wanted the biggest plane and a much bigger board to make some of the long curls like the one lying in the floor. I loved it and she tried. It gives me an idea about how the range of sizes does accommodate different sizes of woodworkers. The #7 should have a sign beside it like Disneyland, "You must be this tall to use this tool." It is an excuse to have a plane to fit each child, another justification for a complete set, as if I need one.

I thank you all for your comments and advice. I take it all to heart. I will also try to be more present for the discussion in the future.

[Jim Koepke]

Thomas,

When my grandson was about 6 or 7 he also enjoyed using my LN #1 to make shavings.

last summer he left here with a tool kit to get started. It included a #3 size plane and a #60-1/2 block plane.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

It’s surprising (to some) how much you can get done with an abbreviated set of tools.

[Jim Koepke]

It’s surprising (to some) how much you can get done with an abbreviated set of tools.

Yes, many with a minimalist approach to their tool set do a lot of fine work.

In my early days, making a drawer was done with a chisel to cut the grooves for the bottom. This was a bit of work. Though it was easy to make stopped grooves on drawers with through dovetails. A chisel was also used for chopping all the dovetail waste. This was before the Knew Concepts saws and the movement to sawing out dovetail waste came into vogue.

The edges of small pieces for a box or other project could be planed well enough with a #4 sized plane. Trying to balance a jointer on a narrow strip was a touch more difficult.

Of course if you want to make molding or do a little carving it will likely expand your set of tools.

Some times the best reason to expand one's tool set is because a different tool makes the work easier. Some time it is just because a person can.

jtk

[Jerry Olexa]

Usually, you can accomplish your WWing project goals with tools you have on hand.. UNLESS, you are going into totally uncharted waters. :)

[Jim Koepke]

Usually, you can accomplish your WWing project goals with tools you have on hand.. UNLESS, you are going into totally uncharted waters. :)

Those 'uncharted waters' are how we get our significant others to let is spend money on new tools.

jtk

[James Pallas]

I am a tool lover. I have more tools then I use regularly. I have many planes still. I have given away many planes. Would I like to have a complete set of Lie Nielsen planes, absolutely with no doubts. I have to try hard to be somewhat reasonable. I would love to have a 797 Caterpillar too, but I really don’t need it to haul a wheelbarrow of dirt to the backyard garden. It would be fun to have the Cat though.

[John Makar]

I think LNs are in a completely different category from prior generations. I have family inherited Stanley-Baileys (4&6) that are now around 140 years old, still going strong, zero problems. I have rescued S-Bs (5&7) that will give another easy 100 years of good service if someone will take care of them. All I do is spray with oil once a year and hone at 1,400 when I think of it. But my LN low-angle block and my 4 1/2 just are in a different class.

For all of that, I suspect the whole plane thing is some form of insanity. My primary lumber supplier, the only local one with great wood, 8/4, 10/4, charges me $0.50 per bd ft to bring me to S3S, and that S3 surface is silk smooth, and winding stick flat. My smart surfacing purchase was the Veritas scraper kit. I can flatten, burnish, set the hook perfectly and mount it in their card scraper handle in less time than it took to write this. The price for the full kit, that includes the file jig I use to true my ski edges, was $99, and I got free shipping. I use my cards now many, many more times than my planes.

[Chris Fournier]

With regards to hand planes, in my opinion, a set is complete when you have all of the planes that you need for the work that you do (which of course can evolve and mean that you can acquire what you need and sell what you no longer use). So your complete set is different from mine.

I have 24 LN pieces in my kit. I made my living with them for many years. There are a few that I'd sell in a minute if I was inclined to do so.

For bench planes I'd buy no smaller than #3 although I own a #2 and use it. I'd skip the #4 and go #4 1/2 however I have a #4 and see no need for the #4 1/2. The Jack has a place but just. The #7 is essential. The #8 not a bit if you use machinery... Low angle bench sizes, skip them. I have one and will sell it when I am inclined.

Block planes. The smaller the better. I love the 102s. They make you feel like you have fingernails that cut wood. Skewed block planes? Meh.

Rabbet planes? Uh huh. Own the block and dedicated bench if you have the $$$.

Shoulder planes are a favourite of mine. The little LN 1/2" bronze job is worth dying for. I have the big boy and that rounds it out. Done.

The iron mitre #9? The grail! Find one. Buy one!

Beading scraper? Own it. Make your own profiles

Scraper planes. Ouch. I have a tough time with these as I think that the Stanley #88 is the sh!t. The LN small and large scrapers are in my kit but they are funky at best. The small has earned it's keep when I am making bamboo fly rods. The large should likely go to a collector...

Spoke shaves, as many as you can horde. I mean afford. I mean need.

Saws? Dovetail. Rip and Cross back saws. Choose your size, I chose for joinery, carcass need not apply.

Panel saws? LN saws are too short and honestly I bought PAX from LV. Sharpen them yourself and they are weapons.

I've built guitars, canoes, furniture and houses. The above tools were all essential to me and have earned a right in my crib. Your mileage may vary as they say.

Chisels? Don't get me started...

The long and short of it? Just because a manufacturer makes it, sequences it, doesn't mean that you need it. Buy what you need to make what you want. Collecting is for stamps.

[Thomas Wilson]

With regards to hand planes, in my opinion, a set is complete when you have all of the planes that you need for the work that you do (which of course can evolve and mean that you can acquire what you need and sell what you no longer use). So your complete set is different from mine.
...

The long and short of it? Just because a manufacturer makes it, sequences it, doesn't mean that you need it. Buy what you need to make what you want. Collecting is for stamps.

Haha! Despite my short history with exclusively hand tool woodworking in the Cave of the Modern Neanderthal, I have found a use for all my planes. They are used differently, sharpened differently, and serve different tasks. I should add that my two rules for woodworking or any project are 1) to get the job done correctly and as well as possible and 2) to use the maximum number of tools possible.

I have a few more planes than you. If I continue to have birthdays and Christmases, the collection is likely to grow. I have joked before on this forum that my goal is to be able to go to a Lie-Nielsen demonstration event by walking in my shop. I do not make a living at this and clearly couldn't with my philosophy. If we consider the entire woodworking catalogue at LN and the Stanley and Bailey lines on which the LN line is based, the planes offered are confluence of woodworker need, toolmaking, engineering, and marketing. Having a numbered line of planes is at least in part a marketing decision to sell more planes. Traditional wooden bench planes come in far fewer standard sizes. It appeals to the stamp collector instinct. Your will power to resist that instinct appears to be strong. I am actually not trying to resist. I am embracing it and making present-buying easy for JaniceWhoKeepsMeHumble.

Carry on.

[Jack Frederick]

Even before I was into woodworking I bought a LN plane. I traveled Maine in my business and once you get to Warren, you have to stop in. Once there, I could not leave empty handed, for over 20 yrs. I had a chat with Tom LN back in the 90's sometime and asked why he didn't do serial numbered planes. His response was that he built working tools and wanted them to be viewed that way. I have most of the catalog and the boxes and some have never been sharpened or touched wood. I bought my wife jewelry. I bought planes. Not as jewelry, but they sure appealed to me and do so more now that I have them in hand. Those that I go to regularly have been excellent when I do my part. I think I'll sell a few of them as I'd rather turn them into something I will use. Sitting on excess inventory is a problem. It is more of a problem when I consider our local fire danger here in the Sierra foothills. I will say that I am always gratified when I reach for one of my LN tools.

[Thomas Wilson]

Hi Jack (don't say that in airports)

You may be more like I than others. The fire loss is quite real where you are. My collection is a condo in Atlanta. There is a sprinkler head in the room. So my loss risk might be different.

TW

[David Marcus Brown]

So the question I want to discuss is the “complete set”. What do you consider to be the complete set of whatever camp of tools you adhere to? I am a 2, 5 1/2, and 8 short of a complete set of LN bench planes. Do you have a 5-1/4? I wish they still made those...

[steven c newman]

The Dungeon Shop is an E.O.E. of hand planes ( and other tools) If a plane can do the job I need to do, the way I want it done....that plane is "hired"

I do not discriminate by brand name....Auburn, Sargent, Ohio, Millers Falls, Stanley...even Wood River and Shelton have been used in the shop. Most still are at work in the shop, too. Sizes range?

#3, #4, #5-1/4(#11), #5 (#14), #5-1/2, #6, #7, #8.....#39-3/8", #45, #71-1/2, #181 ( Auburn), #28, #31, #3416( Sargent), #035( Ohio) and a #118 (Shelton) along with a host of block planes (15 of them!)....Scrapers include a #70, and an #82.

So...rather than limit things to just one brand....more interested in a full set of usable planes.

[Thomas Wilson]

Do you have a 5-1/4? I wish they still made those...
No. I do not have anything that is at all rare. Retail price is high enough that I probably would not pay extra for a true “collector’s item”.

[Thomas Wilson]

The Dungeon Shop is an E.O.E. of hand planes ( and other tools) If a plane can do the job I need to do, the way I want it done....that plane is "hired"

I do not discriminate by brand name....Auburn, Sargent, Ohio, Millers Falls, Stanley...even Wood River and Shelton have been used in the shop. Most still are at work in the shop, too. Sizes range?

#3, #4, #5-1/4(#11), #5 (#14), #5-1/2, #6, #7, #8.....#39-3/8", #45, #71-1/2, #181 ( Auburn), #28, #31, #3416( Sargent), #035( Ohio) and a #118 (Shelton) along with a host of block planes (15 of them!)....Scrapers include a #70, and an #82.

So...rather than limit things to just one brand....more interested in a full set of usable planes.
You are a true woodworking egalitarian with emphasis on the Woodworking.

[Bob Jones 5443]

I have most of the catalog and the boxes and some have never been sharpened or touched wood. ... I think I'll sell a few of them as I'd rather turn them into something I will use. Sitting on excess inventory is a problem.

Jack, I hope you'll let us know when you get the urge to declutter.

[Tony Zaffuto]

No. I do not have anything that is at all rare. Retail price is high enough that I probably would not pay extra for a true “collector’s item”.

How about a LN 1-1/2? Earlier today, found a postcard in my shop, dated 2004, from LN, advertsing a 1-1/2 smoother.

[Thomas Wilson]

How about a LN 1-1/2? Earlier today, found a postcard in my shop, dated 2004, from LN, advertsing a 1-1/2 smoother.
Some here support the idea that “complete” means sufficient for the task at hand. I can see that. Others in the stamp collecting mindset indicate the “complete set” should include the rarest examples of the category. I can see that but cannot attain it. I only want to decide if I should include all the half integer models in the complete set of bevel down bench planes that I am working on. I agree it is a frivolous question.

i bought my first Lie-Nielsen plane about 2004. I may have gotten the same postcard about the 1 1/2. I don’t remember. It delights me that you rediscovered that postcard and mentioned it here.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Some here support the idea that “complete” means sufficient for the task at hand. I can see that. Others in the stamp collecting mindset indicate the “complete set” should include the rarest examples of the category. I can see that but cannot attain it. I only want to decide if I should include all the half integer models in the complete set of bevel down bench planes that I am working on. I agree it is a frivolous question.

i bought my first Lie-Nielsen plane about 2004. I may have gotten the same postcard about the 1 1/2. I don’t remember. It delights me that you rediscovered that postcard and mentioned it here.

Found the post card in my shop, kept for no reason I can think of! I am also not one to keep the boxes planes (or other tools) come in. But it's interesting finding these "mementos" or an occasional old catalog (old being 1980s or 90s).

[steven c newman]

You would have LOVED a catalog I used to have....came from my late FIL's Hardware Store.....Boswick-Braun #43....with an ad from the Postal Service about the shipping rates for 1944...was only about 1700 pages....EVERYTHING a Hardware Store was liable to sell....including that all-important sparkplug for the clothes dryer....Based out of Toledo, OH. Got stashed in a closet a few years ago, not sure which one.

[Jim Koepke]

Some here support the idea that “complete” means sufficient for the task at hand. I can see that. Others in the stamp collecting mindset indicate the “complete set” should include the rarest examples of the category. I can see that but cannot attain it. I only want to decide if I should include all the half integer models in the complete set of bevel down bench planes that I am working on.

Thomas, The answer is simple. If it isn't going to make your work easier, you don't need it, save your money. For some of us accumulating, restoring, using and even selling old tools is part of the fun of woodworking.

To me some of the saddest tool for sale ads seen are the ones for never used tools people bought for some reason and are now selling.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Nicely stated, Jim :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Zaffuto]

You would have LOVED a catalog I used to have....came from my late FIL's Hardware Store.....Boswick-Braun #43....with an ad from the Postal Service about the shipping rates for 1944...was only about 1700 pages....EVERYTHING a Hardware Store was liable to sell....including that all-important sparkplug for the clothes dryer....Based out of Toledo, OH. Got stashed in a closet a few years ago, not sure which one.

J C Whitney catalog for rural life? I happen to have an iron (for ironing clothes), that was heated with white gas.

[Tom M King]

Speaking of hardware store catalogs, I have one from my Grandfather's General Store that came from a wholesale supplier. It has the postal rate from 1929. It's a hardback. It has a whole section with tools for working on cars too.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Belknap used to be a catalog many hardware stores used for sourcing-had everything, from miter boxes & handplanes to firearms to pot belly stoves. The Herter catalog for woodworkers!

[Tom M King]

That catalog has that too. I expect there were suppliers to wholesalers. Earlier, I have shown a picture of a GGF with a Parker double barrel. That catalog still has them in there, in several trim levels. The amazing thing to me is the amount of stuff for working on cars, even down to the overalls for the mechanics to wear.

[Jim Koepke]

Speaking of hardware store catalogs, I have one from my Grandfather's General Store that came from a wholesale supplier. It has the postal rate from 1929. It's a hardback. It has a whole section with tools for working on cars too.

That is interesting, when a hardware store not far from me was clearing out their building one of my finds was the forerunner of the Stearns spoke pointer pictured at the bottom of the page in your catalog:

426548

Here is that story > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?274403

There must have been a few 'catalog' suppliers to small business back in the day. My folks had a few catalogs from different suppliers. The one that comes to mind was a San Francisco merchant, to the best of my memory, was Dunning, Carington & Harrison. My mom referred to them as Dirty, Crummy and Hungry.

Another memory about the catalogs is occasionally on rainy days my brothers and me would sit around the table and look at all the neat and unusual things they had.

jtk

[Tony Zaffuto]

How about walking downtown to where the department stores were and watching TV through the display windows? Pretty neat, and you didn't miss the sound, because you never knew it existed!

[Jim Koepke]

How about walking downtown to where the department stores were and watching TV through the display windows? Pretty neat, and you didn't miss the sound, because you never knew it existed!

That was something only seen in movies or on TV. My folks had a furniture and appliance store and sold TVs. Many of my afternoons were spent in their store watching TV and sometimes sweeping the floors or helping with deliveries.

One of my favorite shows was Science Fiction Theater. It was also one of my wife's favorites. Of course we didn't meet until a couple of decades after it was off the air.

We also used to watch movies in the same theater.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Maybe walking into the local Western Auto store?

Am trying to get a set of Millers Falls bench planes...have the No. 8 and No.9, and 3 jack planes...
426561
Everything above a #5 is also covered by Stanley....5-1/2 to 8.

B & B out of Toledo, OH had a 1953 catalog....all paper, and only about half of what the 1943 issue had.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Maybe walking into the local Western Auto store?

Am trying to get a set of Millers Falls bench planes...have the No. 8 and No.9, and 3 jack planes...
426561
Everything above a #5 is also covered by Stanley....5-1/2 to 8.




B & B out of Toledo, OH had a 1953 catalog....all paper, and only about half of what the 1943 issue had.


Where are the MF Buck Rogers planes? The collector part of me has one of each Buck Rogers tools, though they are not for using.

[steven c newman]

The Buck Rogers planes are very scarce around here.....I do have a few other items....No. 100 push drill, no. 104 Eggbeater drill. and a few of the Permaloid chisels....I did see the Buck Rogers brace down at Heart of Ohio....The M-F No. 15 plane was more important.....

[Tony Zaffuto]

The Buck Rogers planes are very scarce around here.....I do have a few other items....No. 100 push drill, no. 104 Eggbeater drill. and a few of the Permaloid chisels....I did see the Buck Rogers brace down at Heart of Ohio....The M-F No. 15 plane was more important.....

I would buy a#15 in a heart beat-the 5-1/2 planes are a favorite size of mine (with the 3). I think the MF with the two piece lever caps, are the equal of any metallic plane out there.

There are questions whether the brace was a Buck Rogers tool or not, but I still bought one.

[Jim Koepke]

I think the MF with the two piece lever caps, are the equal of any metallic plane out there.

Even my MF made Dunlap given to my grandson was an equal to my Stanley planes.

jtk