Linemaster 632-DA cord-where to source/or make one

[Stark Suggs]

In an attempt to keep my shop cost down, Ive been trying to create an inexpensive switch for my HF DC. I saw a used Linemaster 632-DA foot switch for $10.50 and bought it. The problem is that it arrived without a cord. So, Ive basically ripped the internet apart looking for the cord or a variant w/o any success at all. Anyone know where I could source one? How difficult would it be to make one? It cannot be that difficult...I have a little more than basic wiring skills and am confident this would be an easy task. What type of cable? Since I have not found any information online, making one now is a moot point.

additional info if needed......

HF DC (model 61790) 120VAC...15amp...2hp ......fwiw, the DC just happens to be on a dedicated 110/20.

Linemaster 632-DA 20a/125v...and 1.5h

I have been told (from a reliable source) that the 1.5 hp rating on the Linemaster is not an issue in light of the fact that the DC has a 2hp...


Here are a few pictures that may help regarding the wiring.

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Thanks,


SWS

[Wes Grass]

I have that exact switch wired into my router table. I used a 12ga 3 prong extension cord for cabling. I greatly prefer molded plugs for stuff like this.

I used a compression fitting to secure the cable in the switch and junction box for the router.

Note: shortly after buying this from McM, I got notice that the current rating was wrong. It was supposed to be 15A, and I could return it if it was inadequate. My invoice, still in gmail from 2008, says 20, as does the label on the switch per mfg spec.

Dont know what was up with that, maybe they had a batch assembled with the wrong internals.

I also got the footguard for it, which is probably not a safety issue for a DC anyway.

[Bill Dufour]

I would use it to power a contactor or motor controller. That way you are well under any power rating on the switch.
Bill D

[Stark Suggs]

Thank you for the replies. I do have another ignorant question or two if you do not mind. Plan to use 12/3 SO corded with the foot switch. That hole is awfully small for one cord in and then back out? I guess they will fit. And, three blacks? The grounds are not an issue, sorry, but those 3 blacks....what goes where? Presumably, one of them will be capped/taped off. Greatly appreciate your time and input. Take care,

SWS

[Wes Grass]

Assuming your plan is cord from the wall to switch. Second cord from switch to DC.

Alternate is cord from wall to DC. Connect hot lead to motor. Run 2nd cord from DC to switch. Connect one of the wires to the motor, the other to common from the wall. Use those 2 at the switch, plus grounds everywhere.

Some might prefer to switch the hot.

A universal solution is use a junction box and outlet wired like this and plug DC, or anything else, into it.

If all the wires are black, you gotta figure out how to trace them. Ohmmeter is easy. Might be successful just by looking at how they're bundled in with respect to the ground wire. They tend to not be randomly twisted in SO. A cheap extension cord like I used, who knows.

[Frank Pratt]

The switch is rated at 1.5 HP for a reason, and that is that it is only good to handle that level of power. I would expect a short life if it's used to switch a 2 HP motor, especially on a blower. It is a fairly high inertia load with longer duration starting current.

Bill D has the right idea.

[Bill Dufour]

Assuming your plan is cord from the wall to switch. Second cord from switch to DC.

Alternate is cord from wall to DC. Connect hot lead to motor. Run 2nd cord from DC to switch. Connect one of the wires to the motor, the other to common from the wall. Use those 2 at the switch, plus grounds everywhere.

Some might prefer to switch the hot.

A universal solution is use a junction box and outlet wired like this and plug DC, or anything else, into it.

If all the wires are black, you gotta figure out how to trace them. Ohmmeter is easy. Might be successful just by looking at how they're bundled in with respect to the ground wire. They tend to not be randomly twisted in SO. A cheap extension cord like I used, who knows.


Hot lead must be switched. per NEC. it is optional to switch the neutral as well for 120. For 240 both hots must be switched together. On that switch I suspect the left hand lead is common and the two right hand leads are one is NO and the other NC. I see nothing wired to that ground screw yet.
PS: Buy an adjustable overload/contactor so it can still be used when you upgrade to a bigger motor. Should cost under $20 or so on the bay. Cheaper then buying the overload heater coils for one size motor.
Bil lD

[Paul F Franklin]

The linemaster 632-DA has a single pole double throw switch, that's why there are three wires. For your purpose, you will use the common (marked "C") and either one of the other wires. The third wire will be capped with a wire nut or the like. The switch alternately connects the common to one of the other wires on each successive press of the switch.

Rather than attempt to get two cables into the switch, do as others have suggested and run a single cable to a junction box where you will interrupt the hot wire going to the DC. Using a contactor controlled by the switch is a good idea and will definitely prolong the life of the switch.

[David L Morse]

Thank you for the replies. I do have another ignorant question or two if you do not mind. Plan to use 12/3 SO corded with the foot switch. That hole is awfully small for one cord in and then back out? I guess they will fit. And, three blacks? The grounds are not an issue, sorry, but those 3 blacks....what goes where? Presumably, one of them will be capped/taped off. Greatly appreciate your time and input. Take care,

SWS


There's no need for 12 SO here. 14 SJ will be fine. fwiw, the power cable supplied with the HFDC is 16ga.

Use the wire marked "C" and either of the other two. Yes, cap off the other.

I do question your choice to run two cables into that switch. It doesn't look like there's much room inside for connections and two cables through a single fitting is not good practice. To avoid that I would run a supply cord into a handy box with a receptacle. Run a switch leg to the switch. I would probably split the duplex receptacle to have one switched and one unswitched.



The switch is rated at 1.5 HP for a reason, and that is that it is only good to handle that level of power. I would expect a short life if it's used to switch a 2 HP motor, especially on a blower. It is a fairly high inertia load with longer duration starting current.

Bill D has the right idea.

Based on actual testing:

1) It's not a 2HP motor. Based on temperature rise it is no more than 1.5HP. Note that the motor has no nameplate. It's only in the HF catalog that is says 2HP. That's the same list of specs that also says 1550CFM.

2) Actual maximum current draw in the stock configuration is about 13A.

3) Start current is in the range of 60 to 70A, depending on length and size of supply wire.

I also agree with you Frank, as well as Bill and others, that a contactor is the preferred option.

Edit: Sorry Paul, I didn't see your post before hitting the "Post" button.

[Stark Suggs]

Just wanted to take a second and let everyone know how much I appreciate their input. Anyway, I did end up running some 14/3 to the switch, and back out. It was a little tight at entry and exit, but wiring inside was not too difficult. I will add that I learned a lot with this project. Thanks again.

SWS