Cutting Down Cabinet Table Saw fence rails

[John Petsche]

I am downsizing into a smaller workshop. I currently have a 3hp cabinet tablesaw and it is takes up too large of a footprint. Has anyone ever cut the fence rails shorter almost flush with the cast iron top to save space? Cutting them flush will reduce the rip capacity greatly to about 12"-14", but I have a festool tracksaw for wider rip cuts. I am trying to avoid downgrading to a jobsite saw, so I though I would post this and see what others think of the idea. Thanks!
425045

[Frank Drackman]

I asked this question a few months ago and many memebers responded that they did without any issues.

[John Petsche]

Thanks, I am looking to shorten the fence guide tube and rails more than most. Guide rails cut flush with the table-saw cast-iron top will limit the rip capacity to 14" wide rip cuts. Not sure if I would be better suited to trade the cabinet saw for a jobsite that is more compact with greater rip capacity.

[Steve Fish]

Solely my opinion but I would cut the rails if you really need to save the space. Job site saws are inferior in every functional way compared to what you already have. Plus any jigs/sleds you may have most likely won’t work on a saw with different slot locations and less table in front and behind the blade. I have a really super nice rigid I wanna body slam into a dumpster if you wanna trade way down lol.

[Andy D Jones]

Agree with NOT going to a smaller jobsite saw...

Assuming you have extension wings on both sides of the blade, you might consider removing the extension on the left, to give you more room to keep longer rails on the right side. Or vice-versa.

Depending on your wings, you might be able to move the left one over to the end of the right extension. Same size saw top overall, but more rip room on the right... Vice versa might apply here too...

Andy

[johnny means]

Alternately, any metal supply place would have plenty of appropriate sized drops to fab up a mini rail of sorts. I would and have just cut what I had. But, if needing the original rail might ever be a possibility.

[John Lanciani]

I’ve been where you are and cut my rails but I’d recommend cutting them so that you can rip 24” and try to live with that before you go further. 24” gives you the ability to still make standard cabinets if you ever want or need to.

[Mike Cutler]

I had to cut down the rails on my General for two reasons. First to allow the use of a Mast-R-Slide, and second because I have a small shop, and it didn't fit anyway.
Cut the rails to fit your needs. Save the waste, because they make excellent jigs. ;)

[Prashun Patel]

I cut the rails on my sawstop to 24” for the same reason as you. I am happy with the decision.

[Don Sundberg]

Just another though for the guys cutting down your fence rails. You can have a competent welder move the fence to the right side of the T-square making an L square. It would increase your rip on the one side at the expense of the other.

Don

[Jacob Reverb]

Alternately, any metal supply place would have plenty of appropriate sized drops to fab up a mini rail of sorts. I would and have just cut what I had. But, if needing the original rail might ever be a possibility.

+1

I would try to save the original rails intact, if only for resale value. Then again, I make stuff out of metal, too, so making up some new ones wouldn't be an issue.

[Alex Zeller]

I can't say every saw is the same but I know my powermatic needs to have the L angle notched for the miter gauge. Just cutting them shouldn't be hard but to make the notch for someone who's not a metal worker might be more involved than they might think. Nothing a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel can't handle.

[John Petsche]

Thanks for all the feedback! I will try to fab up some shorter rails and try that in case I ever upgrade the saw.

[vince dale]

Depending on the saw I would try to save the original rails. Go to Very Super Cool Tools. They give detail instructions on how to make your own rails. http://vsctools.com/ (http://vsctools.com/)

I made a set for a General 650 that the fellow cut the rails down to fit his shop. Because of this I got the saw for $600.

[william watts]

Cutting the rails flush will not allow the fence to lock down near the edge of the table. The "t" part of the fence will not have any surface to bear against when you lock down the fence. You would loose 3 to 4 more inches of rip capacity.

[Wayne Cannon]

I cut mine down easily with no problem, but you will miss thr greater capacity. I missed the ability to cut to 24", as John Luciani mentioned. I wound up replacing with the original length when I rearranged the shop and found space by turning my saw station at an angle.

[Derek Cohen]

I am downsizing into a smaller workshop. I currently have a 3hp cabinet tablesaw and it is takes up too large of a footprint. Has anyone ever cut the fence rails shorter almost flush with the cast iron top to save space? Cutting them flush will reduce the rip capacity greatly to about 12"-14", but I have a festool tracksaw for wider rip cuts. I am trying to avoid downgrading to a jobsite saw, so I though I would post this and see what others think of the idea. Thanks!
425045

John, do you have a separate router table? If so, you can save the rails by fitting a router table into this space ... and then get rid of the dedicated router table.

Personally, I want about 30” for the rip, which is what I currently have, and would not go less than 24”. I do not work with sheet goods.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Warren Lake]

has anyone cut the rail then taken it to a tool and die maker and have it drilled and threaded in a large diameter threaded rod so it can be screwed back together again down the road if need be. Seems logically it would work if done right and supported as original or bit more.

[Frank Pratt]

has anyone cut the rail then taken it to a tool and die maker and have it drilled and threaded in a large diameter threaded rod so it can be screwed back together again down the road if need be. Seems logically it would work if done right and supported as original or bit more.

I think having that done to the required level (vary high) of precision would be quite expensive.

[Doug Garson]

What rod are you talking about? I think the rail on the pictured saw is a combination of an angle iron and a square tube.

[Patrick Kane]

John,

I cut my rails down from 52" to 30", and really dont miss a thing. That said, 12" rip capacity would kind of suck. I can think of many situations where you would be sour about the narrow width. I think 24" is the sweet spot. Most solid wood construction is under 24". Everything else is a lot bigger and you can use the track saw, i feel.

[John Petsche]

My other option is to ditch the cabinet TS and invest in a 17" bandsaw for shop use and use a jobsite tablesaw outside when needed.