Entry hall table for a niece: Part 6

[Derek Cohen]

We ended the last session with the drawer dividers installed ...


https://i.postimg.cc/ZKhjL2Hk/15a.jpg


Everything was nice and square, but the more I thought about what I had done, the unhappier I became. Such an elementary oversight. I cannot believe I did it, and also that no one pulled me up for it. What was it? Two items:


The first was that the grain for the drawer dividers runs the wrong way. Although the boards are as close to quarter grain as possible, which adds to stability, they will expand vertically. That could cause them to buckle, and then the drawers will not run nicely.


The second is that I could have built in a way to close up the drawer dividers against the back of the (to-be-built) side lipped drawer fronts ... this is to be used as a drawer stop ... at this stage it would be necessary to add a filler. Not good.


So I re-did the drawer dividers. Here is the rear of the case. The drawers are left long on purpose ...


https://i.postimg.cc/1RK0kMcq/1a.jpg


Provision is made for the dividers to be adjustable in length (to close up with the back of the drawer front). They are given rebates to slide further forward ... it will be necessary that they move around 15mm forward (to within 5-6mm of the opening).


https://i.postimg.cc/tCCdpP2m/2a.jpg


The rebate is 2mm deep (the depth of the dados), and largely created with a cutting gauge. The blade slices away end grain, and the resulting splitting away makes it easy to chop the remainder.


Here are the dividers, further forward than before, and capable of moving a little more still ...


https://i.postimg.cc/7Z5gT4v3/3a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/L6CtXXW4/4a.jpg


The plan was to glue up the case. However, before this is done, it is wise to fit the drawer fronts across the width (the height will be done at a later date).


This is the board for the three drawers.


https://i.postimg.cc/76k7cT59/5a.jpg


Removing one end, the board is set on the case ...


https://i.postimg.cc/63fRN5RX/6a.jpg


It is now apparent that the front of the bevel, where it meets the drawers, is not straight. It is possible to see a small amount of flat ...


https://i.postimg.cc/s2S7wJg1/7a.jpg


This is especially noticeable in this corner ..


https://i.postimg.cc/sgb5YLyt/8a.jpg


This is fairly easy to remedy ... mark with a pencil, and then plane away the pencil marks ...


https://i.postimg.cc/mkZ9ZfNF/9a.jpg


Perfect now ...


https://i.postimg.cc/pr0FpGqc/10a.jpg


The other end needs no more than a smidgeon removed ..


https://i.postimg.cc/qBQnbq4c/11a.jpg


The upper side is now treated the same way. Interestingly, this needs no work at all.


Time to saw the drawer fronts to size.


First step is to mark the middle point of each divider (since the lips will share the divider). The mark can be seen in the rebate ...


https://i.postimg.cc/4NdcrGxD/13a.jpg


The drawer board across the front ...


https://i.postimg.cc/c4b3WzKr/14a.jpg


Transfer the mark, and then saw the drawer front ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YCLWCxg8/15a.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

This process is repeated. Here are the three sequential drawer fronts. You can just make out the breaks ...


https://i.postimg.cc/pdNnhnJv/16a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/vmWxWH0V/17a.jpg


I am happy with this.


And so, finally, the case is glued up (Titebond Liquid Hide Glue - reversibility and long open time). Looking like a trussed up fowl ....


https://i.postimg.cc/d1wknPfS/18a.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Patrick Walsh]

Very very nice Derek.

That timber is just spectacular. And your work well that goes without saying is equally beautiful.

I have built a number of beveled edge cabinets from hardwood over the last couple years. Non of them dovetailed together being cabinets but nine the less a simular look. I really really enjoy the look and need to find a project of my own to incorporate it into.

I’d give organ for thT stick you used to find its way to my front porch being a lover of figured woods ;)


This process is repeated. Here are the three sequential drawer fronts. You can just make out the breaks ...


https://i.postimg.cc/pdNnhnJv/16a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/vmWxWH0V/17a.jpg


I am happy with this.


And so, finally, the case is glued up (Titebond Liquid Hide Glue - reversibility and long open time). Looking like a trussed up fowl ....


https://i.postimg.cc/d1wknPfS/18a.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Which organ, Patrick? :)

Post a picture of it here, and I will consider sending you another board in exchange ... :D

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Patrick Walsh]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9PFisRCcRU


Which organ, Patrick? :)

Post a picture of it here, and I will consider sending you another board in exchange ... :D

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick, which one is you and which is me? And whom makes three? :D

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Pitonyak]

We ended the last session with the drawer dividers installed ...


https://i.postimg.cc/ZKhjL2Hk/15a.jpg


Everything was nice and square, but the more I thought about what I had done, the unhappier I became. Such an elementary oversight. I cannot believe I did it, and also that no one pulled me up for it. What was it? Two items:


The first was that the grain for the drawer dividers runs the wrong way. Although the boards are as close to quarter grain as possible, which adds to stability, they will expand vertically. That could cause them to buckle, and then the drawers will not run nicely.


The second is that I could have built in a way to close up the drawer dividers against the back of the (to-be-built) side lipped drawer fronts ... this is to be used as a drawer stop ... at this stage it would be necessary to add a filler. Not good.


So I re-did the drawer dividers. Here is the rear of the case. The drawers are left long on purpose ...



Oh, because the sides are also in a vertical orientation so there will be different expansion rates. Not a problem with the drawers because there is vertical space for the drawer sides to fit anyway. Wow, I think I always did that right, but I would need to check. I know I did it recently on some shop cabinets that I just built, but the main case is all plywood, including the dividers, but I glued on a 1/8" (ish) strip to the front as edging, which I assume should not cause a problem.

The piece is stunning, by the way.

[Mark Maleski]

“The first was that the grain for the drawer dividers runs the wrong way. Although the boards are as close to quarter grain as possible, which adds to stability, they will expand vertically. That could cause them to buckle, and then the drawers will not run nicely”

plus the end grain of the dividers would’ve looked odd given everythin* else is face or edge grain. Did you consider using secondary wood on the redone dividers? Shame to have so much nice lumber buried inside a carcass.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Mark

I usually use secondary wood when it cannot be seen. Here I used offcuts that would not be used again (you know how we accumulate these!).

Regards from Perth

Derek