Chemically resistant coating for concrete shop sink?

[Steve Earnest]

Greetings. I've painted the basin of a concrete sink in my shop with concrete floor paint. I'd like to protect it against the occasional splash of brush cleaner, mineral spirits and such. Would a clear epoxy be the way to go, or is that overkill? Thanks for any recommendations.

[Jamie Buxton]

I think that most coatings you could apply would not be as resistant to chemicals as the basic concrete itself.

[Steve Earnest]

I agree, but I needed to improve its appearance. (The shop doubles as a party room when the table saw etc is shoved off to one wall.) It does look surprisingly better, I'd just like to preserve it.

[Ole Anderson]

You might start with a masonry stain to change the appearance. Then I would think you would want a masonry sealer. Some are better than others. The cement contractor sealed my garage floor, but used a sealer that melts in the present of a solvent like brake fluid or gasoline, not a lot of help. So do your homework. Thinking a garage floor epoxy might be the best.

[Steve Earnest]

I'm tending to agree that garage floor epoxy is likely the best candidate. 'Net research has been frustrating because I haven't been able to find info re the particular solvents in question. (edit) It looks like Seal-Krete sells a tintable gallon of epoxy paint for $38.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you use an epoxy paint, I'd be looking for a two-component paint. In a two component coating, you mix two components together just before you apply the coating. The curing process mostly consists of a chemical reaction between the two components. That linking should make it more chemical resistant than single-component coatings.

[Steve Earnest]

Thanks for that. I was moving in that direction and am considering using a table top epoxy resin combo for just that reason. Do you think that would create a finish that would be at least temporarily resistant to brush cleaner? I suppose a little clouding is inevitable.

Here's an example from Amazon, https://amzn.to/2RPp0fm

[Jamie Buxton]

I suspect that epoxy is rather fluid, so it will flow out to a nice smooth surface on the horizontal table top. If so it will run down the walls of your sink.

[Steve Earnest]

You're right. I think that since I just need protection against brief contact with liquids a thin film will be ok. So I should apply on the sides first and then distribute the drip as part of the bottom coat. Note to self: good idea to set up a dam in the drain hole!

[Kev Williams]

try this-
424980
I love this stuff. Cheap and it works. I've painted an RV stove with it; once when I needed some black/clear reverse-engraveable material in a hurry, I sprayed one side of a sheet of Lexan with the black version, and it worked out great. When we moved into this house in '08 to take care of my parents, we started changing out sinks and appliances, and this old 1980-ish avocado-green Hotpoint oven wasn't cutting it. It worked fine (still does) so I painted it with this stuff. I just now took this pic, still looks like new-
424981
And notice it looks like some professional painter laid it down, but it was just me! Everything I've ever painted with it looked just as good.

At $4-ish a can, it's cheap enough to test spray to get your technique down, then test it for chemical resistance once it's set up.

Since you've already painted the sink, this would make a great top coat. :)





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[Bill Dufour]

A plastic laundry tub.

[Steve Earnest]

Kev, what is the jpg a picture of? I don't have viewing rights.

[carey mitchell]

I'm tending to agree that garage floor epoxy is likely the best candidate. 'Net research has been frustrating because I haven't been able to find info re the particular solvents in question. (edit) It looks like Seal-Krete sells a tintable gallon of epoxy paint for $38.


I agree with the garage floor epoxy. You must consider both adhesion as well as cohesion. A product with great cohesiveness will be very resistant, but might not stick to the substrate as well as you would like; remember that the sink will be exposed daily to water. The 2-part garage floor stuff will adhere tightly to the concrete and is formulated to be tough to abrasion, as well as resistant to solvents such as gas and brake fluid.

Don't do like a neighbor and use the one-part stuff - his lasted 6 months. Another neighbor used the 2-part a year ago and his holds up great. I recently used it on my shop floor and it is doing great.

Spend the extra $.

[Kev Williams]

- appliance epoxy-

http://www.engraver1.com/erase2/appepox.jpg - applicance epoxy

- our oven door - :)

http://www.engraver1.com/erase2/ovdr3.jpg

[Mel Fulks]

Years ago ,40 plus, I bought a double vitreous china sink real cheap as companion unit for washer and dryer in a basement. I bet they are even less in demand now.

[Steve Earnest]

I ended up getting Promarine's epoxy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788HYTN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked well, although I think because the sink was cool the epoxy didn't settle as evenly on the sink bottom as it might have. Meh, and the thin coat on the sides of the sink didn't run. Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.