cleaning and storing machinery

[Carl Crout]

Some of my older machinery ('03-'05 vintage) will be taken to my summer home shop. I want to clean the tools up for the trip. They are covered with saw dust and dust (dirt). What can I clean them with? I tried windex and 409 which works pretty good but it looks like they really need a bath with the pressure washer as it's gonna take gallons to get all of the dirt washed and wiped off. Dumb idea? Or what about brake clean?

Second, how would you store them to keep from rusting and getting dirty again? Colorado is low humidity so rust is probably not a problem like here. Just wax the tables and cover with blankets?

Thanks

[mike stenson]

I just had to clean a bunch of smaller tools that were stored in a shed, that was in turn invaded by pack rats. For the most part, I cleaned them with an all purpose cleaner that I use for cleaning my car. Once that was done, I either retreated the surface (cast iron - wax, boeshield, t9, etc), or wiped the surface with an oiled rag. Other than that, I'd suggest a couple soft brushes and a toothbrush or five. I supposed I'd clean larger machinery in much the same way. Storage in AZ is pretty simple as well as the humidity is low. So yea, I'd wax the tables and cover, but it's got to breathe and stay dry. When we initially stored my stuff here, I put moving blankets on them and then lonely covered that with 3mil plastic (non-insulated metal roof at the time, so it would condense).

[Frederick Skelly]

I clean the unpainted metal - usually with steel wool or scotchbrite - and then rub on a coat of "wipe on poly". It tends to last 18 - 24 months. Just did it (again) to all of my hand planes and Im going to do my machines this weekend.

I wish I could claim credit for this solution, but I got it here on SMC.

Fred

[Erik Loza]

My opinion: For long term storage on CAST IRON tops, use something like that CRC spray that leaves a thick coat. Personally, I don't trust wax or Boeshield for seasonal storage, even if the climate is dry. Painted surfaces, of course, should be be fine with just having the sawdust wiped off them. My 2-cents.

Erik

[Carl Crout]

Thanks for the responses

[Richard Coers]

It's my guess that Windex and 409 have a lot of water in them. Get that in cracks and crevices and you'll have rust climbing up and around. What's wrong with compressed air? I use my machinery, getting it really clean is about my last priority since it will see wood again very soon. Brake cleaner is basically just acetone, and likely to remove some paint.

[Tom Bender]

What Richard said. A putty knife for rough clean and leave the fine cleaning for when you put them back into service. They will need cleaning again anyway.