Radial arm saw versus miter saw

[Larry Foster]

Once again, thanks, in advance, for indulging me as I ask more dumb questions.
Your advice is always appreciated and helpful.

I don't spend near enough time in my "shop" because I just don't have room.
I think part of my problem may be that I have too many saws.

I have a craftsman radial arm saw and a Dewalt 705 miter saw. (Plus a fold up Dewalt table saw)
The radial arm saw was free and the miter saw is on a Harbor Freight rolling stand which makes it mobile

I have both because the miter doesn't slide reducing the cut width.
The radial deals with that but takes up a lot of room.

If I replaced the miter saw with a sliding compound and got rid of the old Dewalt and the radial arm saw, what functionality might I lose that I may regret?
Neither seem to have much value on the market

Thank you

[John TenEyck]

Get rid of all those saws and get a good cabinet saw. It will do everything you need and you'll have more space.

John

[andy bessette]

I would never give up my radial arm saw, which stays setup to make perfect 90* cuts only. My miter saw is stored under a bench and only comes out for mitering.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, John and Andy.

John, I don't think have the room to have a cabinet saw.
Or the wallet.

Andy, if I understand, I wouldn't need a sliding miter saw and what I have is fine if I can find a nook.

My shop is approx. 9' wall to wall and 16' from an end to a stationary bench at one end.
I do have a small "L" shaped offset.
Right now, the radial is there and I do have room to operate it there.

I'm packed pretty tight

[jeff norris 2011]

Get rid of all those saws and get a good cabinet saw. It will do everything you need and you'll have more space.

John

Maybe not, the cabinet saw can not deal with cross cuts of very long stock effectively (or not at all). In the end this all depends on the work you do. If for instance you are only building furniture you may be able to get away with only a cabinet saw and a circular saw (for rough sizing).

I have a 12" mitre saw. Mostly used for getting stock to rough lengths when building furniture. It also how ever is the key work horse when I am doing "general" carpentry and finishing work. It is set up with very tight tolerances, but not as good as my cabinet saw - so my cabinet saw does get use for critical cross cuts.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I have both, a miter saw and a radial arm saw. Both are finely tuned and accurate. If I had to give up one, my first guess would be to get rid of the radial arm saw, the functions of which are largely duplicated by the miter saw, except the RAS can handle a dado blade. The miter saw takes up less space.

I consider a good table saw essential.

[Jim Dwight]

I use my RAS the least but I find it handy for cutting tenons on long pieces. Now that I have a domino, I wonder if I will even use it for that. It will do larger crosscuts but I can do them on the table saw with a sled or I can use my track saw. I haven't gone with a slider both because of the cost and the fact that there is always the possibility of deflection resulting in inaccuracy. RAS has the same issue. But it is very hard to push a 12 inch CMS out of alignment.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks all for weighing in on your thoughts.
Hadn't thought about dado blades, something I need to get soon

[johnny means]

Your radial saw can do a lot if you learn how to maximize it's abilities. It can be a little inconvenient, but it is very capable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiGH0Qsu3ak

[Tom M King]

Not giving up my Radial Arm saw. Either of them. I keep one set up for accurate crosscuts, and the other for dadoes. My tablesaw doesn't even have slots in the outfeed table. I can't do without the various miter saws either. One RAS, and the sliding miter saw have tops the exact same height. Right now, they are on the same wall, and help support each other's work.

[Roger Feeley]

I was looking into a slider in the past few days. I was interested in a Bosch Glide but became disinterested for two reasons:
1. I actually had one (a gift) for a short while but the base was dished. The center was about 1/32" lower than the edges of the base. At one point, I had a Bosch tech and several more saws in my house and all had the same problem. That was a few years ago but I remain skeptical.
2. Researching it recently, I found out about another problem The movement of the saw forward and back must be parallel with the blade. Users were complaining that if they lined up the saw for 'chop' mode, then it was wrong in 'sliding' mode. This is easily tested. Take a board about 12" wide and clamp it to the saw. In chop mode lower the blade until the kerf reaches about the halfway point. Then in sliding mode cut from the near edge of the board to just about the end of the previous kerf. If the kerfs line up, you are good. The problem with the Bosch Glide, according to the dissatisfied users, is that there is no way to adjust the angle of the blade to make it parallel with the direction of slide. Presumably, it was engineered to be right but some sort of manufacturing defect crept in and made some (or all?) saws misaligned. Another way to test this same problem is to use a dial indicator against the blade and see if the indicator moves as you slide the saw. This issue is exactly analogous to making the blade parallel to the miter slots on a table saw. All table saws can be adjusted with varying effort. It seems that the Bosch Glide can't be adjusted at all.

[jeff norris 2011]

By the way 9' by 16' though not large is still not too bad for a shop set up. The cabinet saw is so central to my work, that I would organize a small shop around it.

[Larry Foster]

Jeff that's wall to wall.

Actual open room with everything pushed against the wall is more like 6".
I wasn't clear on that part

[Lee Schierer]

If I replaced the miter saw with a sliding compound and got rid of the old Dewalt and the radial arm saw, what functionality might I lose that I may regret?
Neither seem to have much value on the market

I own a craftsman radial arm saw and find it very inaccurate. It can be set to make precise cuts, but the minute you change the set up to make a different cut, the accuracy vanishes. Mine basically gathered dust since I acquired my table saw. Miter saws seem to be more repeatable in making precise cuts. To answer your question the only thing you lose is the ability to cut dados. A router and straight edge can do that instead of the radial arm saw.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Lee.

Getting rid of it would make me a lot of room

In your opinion, what about changing the miter saw to a slider?

[Thomas McCurnin]

I've had two Radial Arm Saws, a Craftsman, and a pre-war DeWalt. I agree with Lee that the Craftsman fell out of alignment pretty easy, to the point that I had a Allen T Wrench mounted on the wall next to the saw, and typically slacked the arm and used a framing square to square up the cuts weekly. It was pretty easy to align, about five minutes or less. The DeWalt is rock solid and is adjusted perhaps once a year.

[William Chain]

I echo this sentiment. The RAS gets a bad rap in my opinion due to the large number of crappy Craftsman, Rigid, Black and Decker, etc. models out there. There's a reason those are so cheap on CL. I have a small collection of old pre-war and post-war DeWalt RAS models (earliest 1941, latest 1958). They're amazing once dialed in, and hold their settings. I have three in the shop set up for various single tasks, though one can make a RAS do many things. I can crosscut 24in panels accurately, I can dado/rabbet/tenon anything you want accurately. The only thing I don't do on the RAS setups is rip. An hour's worth investment of your time on properly setting up a nice old cast iron RAS will result in a dead accurate machine that will outperform most of today's plastic mitre saws.

DeWalt RAS production rapidly raced to the bottom of the heap once Black and Decker got involved, but the early ones are really gems.


I've had two Radial Arm Saws, a Craftsman, and a pre-war DeWalt. I agree with Lee that the Craftsman fell out of alignment pretty easy, to the point that I had a Allen T Wrench mounted on the wall next to the saw, and typically slacked the arm and used a framing square to square up the cuts weekly. It was pretty easy to align, about five minutes or less. The DeWalt is rock solid and is adjusted perhaps once a year.

[Bob Deroeck]

I agree with Lee Schierer's remark that you can do dados well with a router. If you do rip cuts with your RAS, you'll give up that capability. I would replace your two existing saws with a quality CSMS, as you have suggested. A 10" saw probably has sufficient capacity and will be more affordable than a 12" model. If you need the ability to make rip cuts, consider buying a portable table saw that could be on a mobile base to move out of the way when not in use or a track saw. You're probably looking at spending about $1000 new for a decent CSMS and either a portable table saw or track saw. All three of these tools are available used in some areas of the country. It's worth taking a look on Craigs List in your area. Plus monitor the Classified Section of SMC.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks,Thomas, William and Bob

What is a CSMS?
I do have a portable Dewalt contractor table saw.
It folds up when not in use.

For rips, I have some EZSmart stuff that works fairly well for me.

I'll confess.
I haven't used my RAS once since I got it.

But, I have the comfort of knowing that I have it if I need it.
If space wasn't an issue, I wouldn't be having this discussion.

Thinking of getting a CNC and it would fit nicely in the spot where the RAS sits

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I like RASs to, I have a big old Dewalt that I keep around. The problem with it is that although it will do a lot of different things well, so will other more convenient tools. The one thing that no other saw will do as well though is crosscut with a dado head. I'm lucky to have pretty much any "normal" woodworking tool that I want at my disposal and a space big enough to use them in so I keep the RAS just for it's dado capacity. You can make nice dados on the slider but it's a pain to change the saw over to that mode. The cabinet saw relies on a crosscut sled, which has limitations on size and accuracy. You can cut dados by setting the depth stop and nibbling away with most SCMS, or a router, chisel, etc... However, the RAS is still king of crosscut dados.

Question is, does that matter to you? I use them for cabinets a lot, but maybe you don't? If not, a SCMS and a table saw will do anything you likely need.

[Larry Foster]

Steve, I have a couple of cabinet projects for my own house I plan as soon as the weather cooperates (unheated shop)

I recently did my first attempt at a rabbet on my table saw for some drawers and it didn't turn out well.

Still getting my feet wet in trying to figure out what kinds of things I want to make besides things for the house.

I have an unfinished rolling kitchen island, then want to add a bunch of pull out shelves for my existing cabinets and pantry.
Then a sink base and cabinet to replace my almost 75 year old sink base.

[Ron Selzer]

spent last night at work ripping 5'x5' Baltic Birch on a Radial arm saw, 14 3/4" wide 4 rips per piece 27 sheets total last night, 22 more tonight and 30 more on order to get the same treatment. I work in a maintenance dept that is not set up for woodworking and normally doesn't do it. However this needs done and the radial arm saw is there and very capable of doing this. Then need to crosscut the ripped pieces to length and finally will assemble the book shelves.
Now there is a fairly new DeWalt sliding miter saw on the bench that absolutely can not be of any help on this project. On other projects it is the best tool for the job, all depends on what we are working on at that time.
Still have boilers to look after and other work orders to do so cannot devote all night to any one project.
I have a 4'x4' tv/stereo stand made back in the 80's out of 3/4" plywood with locking miter corners including the back, this was made with a radial arm saw and a very cheap table saw. Has been moved many times and still all joints are tight.
All tools have a job they are great at, some they are good at and some that they can't do. Up to you to decide what each tool will do for you.
I do like tools, 1 SawStop ICS, 3 radial arm saws, 14" band saw, 2 panel saws, 2 Shopsmiths, basement and garage are getting tight

[Larry Foster]

I need a bigger shop

[Ron Selzer]

I need a bigger shop
I had a lot bigger shop in a separate barn at my first house, room to build one at the second house and now at my third and last house only have part of the basement(but grabbing more as wife and grandkids allow) part of the garage also as wife insists on parking inside along with mower and yard stuff. Make the best of what you have, figure out how to fit tools on the same bench, how to have mobile stands, etc. Main thing is to have fun, relax and enjoy your hobby. When I was young and poor did a lot with cheap tools, just have to figure out how. Learned more then, now enjoy good tools and treasure great tools. Still learning how to build things and really need to learn how better to finish furniture even tho I don't like finishing.

[Larry Foster]

I have some things on rolling flip top stands, a flip down smaller work bench, my table and miter saws fold up.

I don't expect to ever be good enough that my work will be commercially viable.

But I do like to make things, especially, things for the house which is smaller like my shop.

[Nick Sorenson]

The RAS can rip (safely if you are careful and if you use the ripping pawl and blade guard nose properly) and can dado. It can miter. Jigs galore can be made to do other tasks without having to move it off 90 degrees. It is however not portable.

It being up against the wall is a plus for me vs a big table saw in the middle of the shop requiring even more open space completely surrounding it 360 degrees for the workpiece.

Why not keep the miter under your radial and pull it out when needed.

[Steven Cooper2]

I have not seen it mentioned earlier, but if you go the SCMS route, they still take up a reasonable amount of real-estate.

my SCMS station with dust collection hood thingy probably ends up taking 4'x4' of floor space and ends up having the edge of the fence around 18-24" from the wall. It is better than a RAS but not a terribly compact setup. I'll be looking at a glide saw when I decide to upgrade my Hazard Fraught 12" slider to buy back some space.

[George Yetka]

I would say keep the RAS and trade the miter saw for a mini that can handle trim if needed

[Larry Foster]

Stephen, my miter saw is on a fold up stand.
It's quite portable.

I don't have dust collection except for a broom.
:eek:

Facing my RAS, I have, maybe 3' to the left and 4' to the right.
Right now to rip sheet goods I go outside.

I may need to re-think my layout to see if I can keep it.
It would be cheaper to keep it rather than ditch both my miter saw and RAS and buy a sliding miter saw.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Steve, I have a couple of cabinet projects for my own house I plan as soon as the weather cooperates (unheated shop)

I recently did my first attempt at a rabbet on my table saw for some drawers and it didn't turn out well.

Still getting my feet wet in trying to figure out what kinds of things I want to make besides things for the house.

I have an unfinished rolling kitchen island, then want to add a bunch of pull out shelves for my existing cabinets and pantry.
Then a sink base and cabinet to replace my almost 75 year old sink base.

I should have noted that not all RAS have enough stroke to dado across a normal cabinet in one pass. It's not that hard to flip the stock and line up the dado from the other side if you need to make a pass from each side to get across a side panel. You'll find it handy I think.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that info, Steve.

I'm still pondering all the pros and cons and haven't made a decision.

Weather is supposed to moderate for a few days so I'd like to get out in the shop and review spacing.

I have a Warm Morning pot belly coal stove in a corner that takes a lot of space and, surprising to me, makes very little heat.
If I take it out, the RAS may fit there.
Also, that would put it by the big doors so I could open them if I needed to do longer stuff.

Boy!
That saw is heavy to even roll around.

[Rod Sheridan]

Get rid of them all and buy a short stroke Euro slider, maybe even with a built in shaper. Save space, increase your capacity and accuracy.

That's what I did for a small basement shop, haven't looked back since.........Rod.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for the suggestion, Rod.

Perhaps if I had known about these things before I bought (or had for years) all this other stuff.
Without knowing exactly what a short stroke Euro slider is, I'm guessing it's out of my budget.

[Larry Foster]

Wanted to update.
I decided to keep the RAS for now.
I moved it near my big door so I could handle longer stuff.
I
Also keeping the Dewalt non-slider due to it's mobility and quick set up and compact storage.

Over the last few days I had it and my table saw set up and it's a little tight getting around.

Length wise I was sort of okay but width is at a premium

Thanks for all your input