Bending or forming formica

[Anthony Whitesell]

I want to build a built-in craft desk for my daughter. The space has screamed for a built-in desk from the time I bought the house and that room was the office. I can but a premade countertop but they all include a backsplash, which isn't needed and will only take up (valuable) space. I was thinking of building one, but I don't want a square front edge. That would be quite uncomfortable to rest you forearms on. I would like to round the front edge. That would also allow for one solid piece from the bottom of the front edge to the back. So the question is, how do I form the formica over the rounded front edge? Search brought up little. I suspect heat, but what does that do the contact cement? Anyone have a link to a good procedure for doing this. All I found where large machines and automated processes.

[Tony Joyce]

Why not rip the backsplash off of a stock postformed top? Or you could get a 26" bar top and rip 1 edge off and still have 24" if needed.
And to answer your question you would need postform grade laminate(thinner) and heat. Considerable work for one top.

[johnny means]

The short answer is no. I've been working laminate for 20+ years now. In that time I've done plenty of curves. Anything under a 2" radius gets very difficult to do. The postform tops you see in the store are done with very specialized machines for a reason.

[Mark Bolton]

Look into formica and wilsonart applied edges. Crescent, bevel, etc. They are very easy to apply. You can either face glue them T spline them on. You dont have a dead seamless post formed edge but its something you can easily do yourself. Can be a bit fussy and persinikety with regards to alignment but for a desk would be more than adequate.

[Steve Jenkins]

I would go with the suggestion to rip the backsplash off a Home Depot or Lowe’s counter top

[Jim Becker]

Band it in wood...you can create a very nice molding that has the roundover/bullnose that you want and it will also hide the edge of the laminate on the field of the table top. If you don't want the wood look you can use alternative solid materials but the same techniques.

[Peter Kelly]

Lowes has some pretty inexpensive butcher block tops, usually in stock. Cut to size, round over the front edge with your router, finish and Jean-Guy's Your Uncle. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-The-Baltic-Butcherblock-6-ft-Unfinished-Natural-Straight-Butcher-Block-Birch-Kitchen-Countertop/1001390008

Postforming laminate tops isn't an option without specialized machinery.

[Tom Dixon]

You can special order tops with one edge or two edges rounded. The same companies that do the rounded style integrated backsplash do these as well they just generally aren't a stock item at the big box stores. Go to the kitchen desk at a big box store and have them quote you what you are looking for if you don't want to build a top banded in wood as Jim suggests.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Riping off the backsplash isn't going to be a good option. If it is ripped to leave the depth, then there will be a section of exposed pressboard. If it is ripped to remove the press board it will be about 3" shallower.

Thanks for the confirmation that it takes special equipment to form the standard rounded edge. That was what I was finding, but was hoping someone knew of a DIY solution.

I don't think a 'custom' order countertop with no backsplash will be all that cheap (ie., custom). But I will check, as it would be a great solution. I will think about the butcher block idea as well.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Maybe one of the other materials would be better? I personally really prefer a wood desktop over a formica. Second best in my opinion would be a solid surface like Corian. If you can find some, the solid surface products aren't that hard to work with normal woodworking tools and an inquisitive mind.

[Ron Selzer]

I prefer to add a wood strip (glued) to the front of the mdf sheet then laminate over the complete top, rough trim the laminate to size then use a router bit to finish the front edge.
Finish the exposed wood with whatever stain and finish you prefer.
I like the custom look and different look you get this way.
If you really want a rounded edge or bullnose, etc. then make it on the wood strip and add the wood stip after you laminate the top

GOOD LUCK
Ron

[Anthony Whitesell]

I prefer to add a wood strip (glued) to the front of the mdf sheet then laminate over the complete top, rough trim the laminate to size then use a router bit to finish the front edge.
Finish the exposed wood with whatever stain and finish you prefer.
I like the custom look and different look you get this way.
If you really want a rounded edge or bullnose, etc. then make it on the wood strip and add the wood stip after you laminate the top

GOOD LUCK
Ron

What if I glue the hard wood strip to the mdf base, then attached the laminate, then trim and round over the laminate sheet and the hardwood nose as one piece?

I know the square front edge on my desk is not comfortable on my forearms.

[Tom Dixon]

What if I glue the hard wood strip to the mdf base, then attached the laminate, then trim and round over the laminate sheet and the hardwood nose as one piece?

I know the square front edge on my desk is not comfortable on my forearms.

Likely the laminate will disintegrate where the wood round over meets the laminate round over since you would be using a contact glue. I would not attempt that having made more than a few laminate tops. To not have the laminate edge disintegrate the round over bit would have to take out at least 1/16" through the laminate so it steps down to the round over, which probably isn't what you want.


I don't think a 'custom' order countertop with no backsplash will be all that cheap (ie., custom). But I will check, as it would be a great solution. I will think about the butcher block idea as well.

Custom as meant here is "not stocked in the store". Most of the tops sold by the big box stores are custom ordered from a selection of styles and "standard" popular laminate offerings because every kitchen and bath is different. These tops are sold by either the square foot or linear foot depending on the style. Two rounded edges is a standard style commonly used for island or bar tops. The narrow ends will be a 90 degree hard edge but you can have it made as a large radius as a standard option. So long as you pick a color laminate that the vendor that supplied the big box store has as a standard offering the type of top you want should be as cheap as what they have in stock at the stores which is $20 to $25 square foot. Shipping to the store is usually free so all you have to do is pick it up maybe a week or so after you order it.

[Mel Fulks]

This is a good example of the difference in how home owners think and how cabinet guys think. While many home
owners like that round , many cabinet guys don't . They take great pride in sticking on those little strips....and when
they start to peel and fall off.....they are not there.

[John Ziebron]

The house I'm in now has oak kitchen cabinets with formica tops. The cabinet shop edge banded the the front and sides of the counter tops with about 1/2 inch solid oak then glued the formica on. After that the edges were routed. When I remodeled my laundry area I made a utility sink cabinet with the same type top, except I used maple.

I used the same ogee profile as the kitchen tops but you could just as easily use a large roundover bit, just plan your edge banding thickness accordingly. If you decide to go this way I would use the bit so there is a slight step to get a nice straight edge on the formica. You can soften it after routing with a fine file. And, as someone mentioned, don't use mdf for the top. Plywood would be a good choice.

[Mel Fulks]

John that is atractive and SO much better than trying to get the wood flush with the laminate. I've have to do a lot of
the flush fits,just because I wasn't smart enough to ruin the first tries.

[Doug Garson]

One thing to consider with a built in desk is power cord management. Unless you have a power outlet above the desk top, you probably want a way to route power cords for lamps, phone chargers etc. down to an outlet below. Two ways to do this (at least) drill a hole thru the top or space the top away from the wall. I installed a counter top in our home office with a backsplash and spaced it about 3" from the wall to allow clearance for cords. Works well and the backsplash prevents stuff from falling off the back of the top.
If you go to a custom countertop manufacturer you can get any size, colour or shape of counter top with or without a backsplash you can afford.

[Brian Ross]

This is a good example of the difference in how home owners think and how cabinet guys think. While many home
owners like that round , many cabinet guys don't . They take great pride in sticking on those little strips....and when
they start to peel and fall off.....they are not there.

I do it for a living but don’t agree with your take on all cabinet guys. I have replaced hinges that failed after 8 years at no charge. The homeowner felt that it must have been faulty at time of install as no others failed . As someone else mentioned they do make preformed front edges more a select number of matching colours. If installed properly the joint is difficult to see. The main three manufacturers make them. Some are available to give the appearance of granite counter tops.
Brian

[Mel Fulks]

Brian, I should have been more clear. I was referring to the employees who hate to see easy jobs disappear. I've never
heard management grumble much. And most make sure poor work is made good. But I've heard the help complain every time they didn't get to play with the strips.

[Ole Anderson]

I am in the middle of a laminate project right now. Doing a 3' x 12' conference room table and a matching 2' x 8' countertop for a credenza using two 24" HD unfinished base cabinets at the ends. All using 1-1/8" particleboard. BTW that 3x12 sheet weighs 180 pounds. Prior to laminating I glued a 7/8" x 1-1/2" red oak strip around the perimeter mitering the corners. Flushed everything to the top then applied the Wilsonart premium laminate (Old Mill Oak), holding it 1/4" in from the edges. Then I used a 45 degree bevel router bit to ease the edge. Here is a pic prior to final sanding, staining and varnishing:

Got a few tips from a YouTube video, including using visqueen as a slip sheet rather than using dowels and then clamping one end for perfect alignment before folding the visqueen under. Much easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5lrXt9WtVs
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[Anthony Whitesell]

As you describe, I was thinking of doing the same thing with a 3/4" roundover bit.

[Mark Bolton]

Honestly, look at wilsonart crescent edge and any other edges by mfr's you have access to (formical, 909, etc.) they are not seamless but neither is any wood applied edge. If you want wood, then a wood bullnose is simple. If you want a rolled plastic laminate edge your only options are an applied edge, or to do as has already been suggested and get a quote on double edge post formed top (which I also would agree is likely not as costly as you'd think but then again Plam tops at the home center are not cheap to begin with and they are usually crap laminate anyway)

[Mark Bolton]

Here is a perfect link for you. Look at any of the "Bar" options. Those are readily available special order from pretty much any supplier.

http://www.ultimateincounters.com/Laminate_Edge_Profiles.pdf

[Tom Dixon]

Here is a perfect link for you. Look at any of the "Bar" options. Those are readily available special order from pretty much any supplier.

http://www.ultimateincounters.com/Laminate_Edge_Profiles.pdf

This is EXACTLY what I was talking about in my earlier post.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have gone to the box stores to ask for a waterfall single edge counter top, 6' x 24". Shall we guess the price? 12 square feet, $250, for the cheapest laminate in the list (just over $22/sq ft). Contrast that to the kitchen/vanity waterfall edge, 6' long sitting on the shelf at $72. I'm trying to find a direct source to see if they have a scrap, seconds, or want to cut a deal (skip the box store markup and delivery) for a quick easy countertop.

As for a seam near the edge, I have never seen a rounded edge with a seam. The HPL is a single piece from the backsplash to the drip edge on every counter top I have ever seen or looked at during this en devour.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Likely the laminate will disintegrate where the wood round over meets the laminate round over since you would be using a contact glue. I would not attempt that having made more than a few laminate tops. To not have the laminate edge disintegrate the round over bit would have to take out at least 1/16" through the laminate so it steps down to the round over, which probably isn't what you want.


I don't follow the latter statement. But the first part worked just fine in my 3 foot test piece. I don't know why you thought it wouldn't. Laminate is trimmed with router bits all the time. Flush trim especially, but also taper bits. Not much difference between taper and roundover. The results were the bit survived, nice smooth edge, straight lines. Perfect from a technical aspect. Unfortunately, the round over provides a tapered/angled cut through the laminate, which makes a wide brown stripe visible down the length. Kind of resembles an extra wide pin stripe. But the dark brown backing of the laminate vs the mottled white top and light colored maple edge is not attractive.

[Tom Dixon]

The large brown stripe of the backing is what can disintegrate over time with use. It is softer than the surface and by rounding it over it is very thin where the backer meets the wood and can easily be damaged/chipped/broken.

[Mark Bolton]

I have gone to the box stores to ask for a waterfall single edge counter top, 6' x 24". Shall we guess the price? 12 square feet, $250, for the cheapest laminate in the list (just over $22/sq ft). Contrast that to the kitchen/vanity waterfall edge, 6' long sitting on the shelf at $72. I'm trying to find a direct source to see if they have a scrap, seconds, or want to cut a deal (skip the box store markup and delivery) for a quick easy countertop.

As for a seam near the edge, I have never seen a rounded edge with a seam. The HPL is a single piece from the backsplash to the drip edge on every counter top I have ever seen or looked at during this en devour.


$20 per square foot is the going rate for any base laminate around here so your 22 number sound like a win-win. There is never ever ever going to be a chance that a mass produced, standardized item, is going to be the price you can go on for anything other than the off the shelf item. Its like people coming to me looking for a $350 vanity. I can hit the 350 number easy if Im making 50-100 pieces and its rapid fire. But the one off is not going to hit that number.

These are applied edges. Very straight forward. Glue on, T slot on, etc.. available from all manufacturers.
https://issuu.com/wilsonart/docs/wilsonart_decorative_edges_brochure?fr=sNWIxODE2Mj Ex

[Jim Becker]

Anthony, see if Ikea has a pre-made that will fit your needs.

[Derek Meyer]

The large brown stripe of the backing is what can disintegrate over time with use. It is softer than the surface and by rounding it over it is very thin where the backer meets the wood and can easily be damaged/chipped/broken.

When we built my house, we did laminate for the kitchen counters that is a black granite print. We edged the particle board with solid maple, then covered the tops and edges with laminate, and came back and routed a chamfer along the edges, exposing about 1/4" of maple at a 45 degree angle. All the counters have held up great, with no laminate separating from the substrate and no chips or dings in the laminate edging anywhere, even by the sink or stove. I did apply 2 coats of wipe-on poly to the maple, some of which probably coated the cut edges of the laminate. This was 16 years ago.

[Ira Matheny]

Use 'POST FORMING' laminate. Thinner than normal laminate. Designed for bending.