First Post/How did I do this? Can it be corrected?

[Tim Best]

Hello all. I am new to hand tool woodworking and I am asking for some pointers/advice/tips. I recently (and repeatedly) butchered an innocent plane iron trying to free hand sharpen. Over the course of several sharpening sessions, I managed to skew the iron quite drastically. The skew is so dramatic that I cannot compensate using the plane’s lateral adjuster. I know I arrived at this point by not paying close attention during sharpening, but even if I were paying attention, I am not sure the results would have been any different. I have attached a few pictures that I think illustrate my ham-fisted defilement of this innocent iron.

Is this “simply” an issue of poor form resulting in too much pressure on one side/edge of the iron? If so, does anyone have any pointers on preventing this in the future?

I do not have (nor do I really want) a bench grinder, tormek, etc. to reshape the edge. Is it realistically possible to bring this iron back to square (or at least something close to square) by hand? If so, I would appreciate all pointers.

I currently sharpen (if it can be called that) with water stones 400/1000/4000/8000 but also have sandpaper of various grits and a relatively flat granite stone. Also, I have an eclipse-style jig, but I would rather learn how to do this free hand and without having to fiddle with the jig every time I sharpen. Thanks in advance.

Kind regards,

Tim

[Phil Mueller]

Tim, welcome to SMC! Don’t be too hard on yourself, most of us have managed to create skewed edges when learning to hand sharpen (and sometimes still do!). Most likely you were just putting more pressure on one side than the other or maybe even “twisting” the iron a bit...meaning you may be leaning the iron left or right. It needs to be presented to the stone as square as possible. And once the skew starts, it’s kind of natural to follow the bevel and make it even worse unless you check and make adjustments to the way you are holding it.

The easy way to go about correcting it would be to use the jig. Even though I free hand most of the time, I don’t hesitate to use a jig when correcting a skew or even when removing a lot of material to get rid of a nick. Given you need to remove a bit of material, I’d probably start with some 100 grit sandpaper to get it back to square, then move to your stones.

[Charles Bjorgen]

Hi Tim — Your iron doesn’t appear to be too badly out of square. Just go back to your coarse water stone or sandpaper on granite and correct by concentrating on the long side of the blade. Check regularly with a small square until you’ve eliminated the fault. I own both a Tormek and a
couple sharpening jigs and have managed to get out of square results with those because I failed to pay close attention. That’s the key.

[Mike Cornwall]

For me, pressing hard exaggerates the unevenness. It’s one of those scenarios where it’s hard to learn without the finesse that comes with a lot of time. Holding the iron tightly in my right hand tends to twist it and put more pressure on the right corner. Being able to control the iron in my hands without holding it in a death grip is tricky.

[lowell holmes]

Somehing like this might help. Or, I bet you could make one out of wood.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200711894_200711894?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google_PPC&utm_medium=Dynamic%20Search%20Ads%20Test&utm_campaign=Power%20Tools_DSA_Migration&utm_content=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9orxBRD0ARIsAK9JDxSoSpdsHG-0Fg7btEUu1RiZB2JKSbt8MkdBFQFXIaNbshEY64wF8hAaApwBE ALw_wcB

[Blake M Williams]

Don't feel bad about using a jig. You'll get used to the angle with the help of a jig. And learning to hold the iron or chisel free hand takes a long time. Keep in mind that a hundred plus years ago when people worked with these tools that they had hours on hours of constant use and practice. Im sure hundreds of apprentices messed up the edges of blades until they were good at it.

[mike stenson]

Don't feel bad about using a jig. You'll get used to the angle with the help of a jig. And learning to hold the iron or chisel free hand takes a long time. Keep in mind that a hundred plus years ago when people worked with these tools that they had hours on hours of constant use and practice. Im sure hundreds of apprentices messed up the edges of blades until they were good at it.

Both my grandfathers, and great-uncle, would also use a wet grinder (wheel) to establish a hollow grind. That gives you two registration points, and makes it a lot easier to hone. Once that was done, they'd re-establish the grind. Those grinders? Foot powered, and very old. I wish I had one of them.

Edit: for what it's worth, I'll free hand on blades that are easy to freehand, and pull out the eclipse when they're a pain. My hobby isn't sharpening.

[Edwin Santos]

Both my grandfathers, and great-uncle, would also use a wet grinder (wheel) to establish a hollow grind. That gives you two registration points, and makes it a lot easier to hone. Once that was done, they'd re-establish the grind. Those grinders? Foot powered, and very old. I wish I had one of them.

Edit: for what it's worth, I'll free hand on blades that are easy to freehand, and pull out the eclipse when they're a pain. My hobby isn't sharpening.

Your post reminded me of my neander friend who absolutely swears by his hand crank grinder which he uses to do the same as your grandfathers and great-uncle. Hand crank grinders are readily available, inexpensive and apparently common used among jewelers.

[mike stenson]

Your post reminded me of my neander friend who absolutely swears by his hand crank grinder which he uses to do the same as your grandfathers and great-uncle. Hand crank grinders are readily available, inexpensive and apparently common used among jewelers.

Yea, new ones are about $40.

[steven c newman]

Might be a bit too far to drive...
423991
Haven't check the price in a while....Antique Mall 3 blocks from my house...

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Tim and welcome to the Creek.

Don't feel bad, some of my hand sharpened tools have developed similar skews even after years of free hand sharpening. This is when my blade holding-jig comes out to reset the bevel.

This should work well with abrasive sheets on your granite stone. Check after ever few strokes. An abrasive sheet in the 220 to 360 grit range should work fine. You may want to avoid your 400 stone. In my experience the low grit # water stones wear quickly which may cause other problems.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

I've made worse skews.

If it's sharp, and you can tweak the iron for even exposure with the lateral adjustment lever - you're good to go.

FYI - I often sharpen with blades skewed to fit on my stone. I try to hold it both on the left and right sides for an even bevel.

[Tim Best]

Thanks all for helpful comments, tips, and encouragement. I now have a better idea of what I am doing wrong. More importantly, thanks to the tips, I now know how to correct the issue. Pics below reflect the current state of the iron. The iron is mostly square, re-ground, and honed. Thanks again.

[Rob Luter]

Hi Tim -

Welcome. Without naming names (including mine) I’ll say that many others have experienced the learning curve associated with sharpening. Chin up and carry on. Your skills will get better quick. Sooner than you think you’ll be able take off the tip of a finger without even feeling it. ;)

[John K Jordan]

Might be a bit too far to drive...
423991
Haven't check the price in a while....Antique Mall 3 blocks from my house...

I have the wheel and hub for one of those, the rest is long gone.

[Jim Koepke]

I have the wheel and hub for one of those, the rest is long gone.

Mine came with a stand, but it was in bad shape. Bought some bearings, rod and rod ends and put this together:

424021

It has been used on a few things but it is a bit coarse for my liking.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

On second thought, I would square the end with a block of wood and a hand file. I would grind a new bevel with my bench grinder and then put a bevel on with my diamond bench hones.

You can find hones at Home Depot or Lowes.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/diamond%2520hone?NCNI-5

[Kris Cook]

Glad you got it figured out. One comment - looking at your first picture; it might be worthwhile to invest in a little better quality combination square. I was appalled when I checked a hardware store Stanley I had and found the head was moving significantly (rotating relative to the ruler portion).

[Tim Best]

Kris,

Agreed. The Swanson pictured is one that I picked up from the blue BORG as I began the rapid descent down hand tool rabbit hole. It is not exactly a precision instrument, but I can usually compensate. That said, do you have any suggestions?

Tim

[David Bassett]

... do you have any suggestions?

Starrett is classic quality example. It's a traditional American company with a long history. Mitutoyo is a Japanese equivalent in machinist circles. There are quite a few "upstarts" making precision squares targeting wood workers. Chris Vesper, Bridge City Tool Works, Blue Spruce, Woodpeckers and many others I'm sure I'm forgetting. Shinwa makes well reviewed squares, but in Japanese style (which may be better depending on your preferences.)

For many of us, PEC Machinist Double Square Blems, from H.J. Epstein, have been an economical choice. Much more accurate than needed for wood (which remember moves) and pretty inexpensive compared to those others. Mine have ranged from pre-scuffed to unmarked and none of them were out of square in simple tests.

ETA: if you have access to used tool meets, the spectrum will truly expand. And prices may be even better.

[mike stenson]

For many of us, PEC Machinist Double Square Blems, from H.J. Epstein, have been an economical choice. .

These. I have some Starrett and Brown and Sharp tools as well.. but the PECs are well worth the money.

BTW, David thank you for the post. I'd forgotten where I'd gotten them from.

[David Bassett]

... BTW, David thank you for the post. I'd forgotten where I'd gotten them from.

You're welcome! (Glad I remembered, it's been a long time.) Also, thanks for Brown & Sharp, I forgot them in my list. I'm sure there are others that serve well too. OP, it depends on access, preference, and your budget & exact needs.

[Kris Cook]

Nothing to add to the above except maybe check with your local tool/equipment purveyor.

Good Luck.