220v remote switch for Dust collector

[Ricc Havens]

{thread originally in the Classifieds, but has a different outcome...}

Looking to see if anyone has laying around a remote control switch for a dust collector like the Long Ranger or Grizzly remotes or other brands.


Ricc
Elkhart, IN

[Mike Goetzke]

Looking to see if anyone has laying around a remote control switch for a dust collector like the Long Ranger or Grizzly remotes or other brands.


Ricc
Elkhart, IN


Ricc - think about making your own? I've had a ClerVue for many years and use a remote that uses 110v to fire a relay for the 220v cyclone. Maybe someone here with a better electrical background could help you out. For reference I did a search and found this:

https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+clearvue+cyclone+remote+control&safe=active&rlz=1C1GCEB_enUS849US849&sxsrf=ACYBGNSIg5jGOc0HCi-7oFajfsgr6YaYYA:1579286688074&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjl16mwpYvnAhUCS6wKHTswCoEQ_AUoAnoECAsQB A&biw=1920&bih=1057#imgrc=Xetouo9SB4K8gM:


Good luck
Mike

[Jeff Ramsey]

As I said in the following thread, I made my own (cheaper and I've total control over parts selection, along with an inexpensive remote if replacement is needed - the Fosmon is $13.95 for the entire remote unit). You can see the remote on the enclosure in the following picture.

423897

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?276690-remote&p=2950884&highlight=#post2950884

[Ricc Havens]

Jeff & Mike - I saw a couple write ups online about doing that but it seemed like the supplies (contactor/relay, box, remote, plug, cord recept, 220v outlet, wiring, connectors, etc) would end up costing me $50 or more with shipping. A new one from Grizzly is only $65. Didn't seem like a big advantage to do it that way. It would be an option if I knew someone locally that was an electrician who could get me the stuff at cost. But the only electrician I know charges me $75 an hour!


Thanks
Ricc

[Mike Goetzke]

Ricc - that one at Grizzly is a good price if your DC is less than 3HP.

Mike

[Bruce Wrenn]

Ten dollar Christmas tree light control, with a 120 volt coil, two pole contactor, and you are in business.

[Mark McClurg]

For my DC system, I have a micro-switch installed on each gate which triggers a solid state relay to "close" one leg of power to the DC. So no matter which machine I'm on, when I close the DC gate, the DC turns on automatically.

[Jim Becker]

Ricc, the advantage to building your own is that the retail versions do tend to not last compared to shop-built and with shop-buit, you can zero in on the exact amperage load you require and have multiple options for the control side so that you can match things up to your own personal needs. Some folks prefer wireless remote controls and as someone mentioned, you can even use inexpensive holiday light controls for that since they are only "switching the switch", as it were. I personally use a centrally located wall switch for mine...it's only a few steps from anywhere in my shop and I can never "lose" it. My setup. Note I chose to use a switched 120v outlet on the control side so I can completely disconnect the contactor from power on both load and control merely by unplugging them.

https://zfxh5g.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mZS-zKt-6OmEpbIcG5h3VT6C0zYE0HdOIiNwVkbrJ2pAgWRaWtBkuCbWfq T12hrNjKWIFyzdkX1rtiS421WJ4WEhYaGTF51BsgIl_57f5qeC sCp9xgHJBKFqCl7OdP74qi_INCNY68M43iWkYpX8slEzL1vsDw 2xhFFYaXrdOPKU9ysQWlbvlMeBGee-0N2R4vC-N7K7zNurn7liDVS67Ig?width=660&height=380&cropmode=none

[John Lifer]

220v relay is about $12 or so, box to hold is a couple, switch about 3, a connector strip is 3 to 7, so maybe $25. And I can turn on and off from each blast gate with low voltage wire and microswitch (cheap, $5 for 10 of those)

[Brad Whitham]

All good advice above. I have the "reinvent the wheel" habit, too. That said, I have a plug&play 3 yr old 220V Shop Fox with two remotes that works like a charm, every time. one remote near each end of the shop is all I've ever needed. $45 shipped to you. PM me if you re interested.

[Ricc Havens]

Ricc, the advantage to building your own is that the retail versions do tend to not last compared to shop-built and with shop-buit, you can zero in on the exact amperage load you require and have multiple options for the control side so that you can match things up to your own personal needs. Some folks prefer wireless remote controls and as someone mentioned, you can even use inexpensive holiday light controls for that since they are only "switching the switch", as it were. I personally use a centrally located wall switch for mine...it's only a few steps from anywhere in my shop and I can never "lose" it. My setup. Note I chose to use a switched 120v outlet on the control side so I can completely disconnect the contactor from power on both load and control merely by unplugging them.

https://zfxh5g.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mZS-zKt-6OmEpbIcG5h3VT6C0zYE0HdOIiNwVkbrJ2pAgWRaWtBkuCbWfq T12hrNjKWIFyzdkX1rtiS421WJ4WEhYaGTF51BsgIl_57f5qeC sCp9xgHJBKFqCl7OdP74qi_INCNY68M43iWkYpX8slEzL1vsDw 2xhFFYaXrdOPKU9ysQWlbvlMeBGee-0N2R4vC-N7K7zNurn7liDVS67Ig?width=660&height=380&cropmode=none


Thanks Jim for the picture and info. I may do this but still deciding as my electrical skills are limited. Trying to find a local friend who is better versed in electronics to help. But, will consider the name brand models if I can find one to meet my disability income budget.

Ricc

[Ricc Havens]

All good advice above. I have the "reinvent the wheel" habit, too. That said, I have a plug&play 3 yr old 220V Shop Fox with two remotes that works like a charm, every time. one remote near each end of the shop is all I've ever needed. $45 shipped to you. PM me if you re interested.


Brad, let me think a day or two about it. The guys above have made great points on reasons to make one but I like simple ready made too! :)

Ricc

[Jim Becker]

Ric, just so you know, setting up a contactor is basically setting up a "switch"...no "electronics" in the deep technical sense is involved and a contactor has screw terminals. It really is pretty darn easy, but there's no harm in getting help from someone who's familiar and comfortable with working with 120v and 240v power if you're not. I picked up my contactor from an electrical supply house...they are quite common...but that was before Amazon, etc., became such a force. :)

Here's my thread from where I built mine: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?12965-Thank-you-Mr-Peacock!!&highlight=Contactor . At that initial point, I was just using an X-10 remote to switch the control side. I later switched {SIC} to a standard 120v single pole wall switch instead of the wireless fob as, um...you can't lose a wall switch. :) :D

[James White]

I used an x-10 220v setup for about 8 years on my 3hp collector. The contactor has now burned out. I replaced it with this inexpensive one. So far it works. No idea how long it will last. The contactor is supposed to be rated for 40amps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QGSDRWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Ricc Havens]

All good advice above. I have the "reinvent the wheel" habit, too. That said, I have a plug&play 3 yr old 220V Shop Fox with two remotes that works like a charm, every time. one remote near each end of the shop is all I've ever needed. $45 shipped to you. PM me if you re interested.


Brad, thanks again for the offer. But, with the advice in this thread, info and encouragement from Jim Becker, and a youtube video I ended up making one yesterday. Seems to work well. So I won't need your Shop Fox unit.

THANKS EVERYONE!!

Ricc

[Jim Becker]

Ricc, great job!

I'm going to move this thread to the Workshops area and slightly change the title so it's preserved rather than deleted as it would be in the Classifieds.

Jim
Forum Moderator

[Bob Riefer]

For my 3 hp dust collector (2 pole 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge wire, 6-30 plug and receptacle) this $18 option worked great for me. I inserted this inline just ahead of my receptacle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WV72DFR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

[David L Morse]

For my 3 hp dust collector (2 pole 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge wire, 6-30 plug and receptacle) this $18 option worked great for me. I inserted this inline just ahead of my receptacle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WV72DFR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

fwiw, it looks like the relay in that unit is rated for 1/2HP:

https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=424294&d=1579733281

[jeff norris 2011]

Interesting thread. I have run a Lone Ranger for years for my 2hp DC. First one got smashed by accident after 10 years. I made a half hearted attempt to repair, but then as I don't like to mess with electrical unless I really know what I am doing, I just bought a new one. Still working after 5 or 6 years.

[Ricc Havens]

Ricc, great job!

I'm going to move this thread to the Workshops area and slightly change the title so it's preserved rather than deleted as it would be in the Classifieds.

Jim
Forum Moderator


Jim, good idea! but would it be a better fit int eh "shop made tools" forum?

[Jim Becker]

Jim, good idea! but would it be a better fit int eh "shop made tools" forum?
No, because we discuss dust collection here and there are many existing threads on DC remote control already. :)

[Bob Riefer]

fwiw, it looks like the relay in that unit is rated for 1/2HP:


Must be a re-used picture on amazon, as their spec for this unit states "The product is a wireless remote switch with 30A relay." and the actual unit I have in hand says the same on the part in question.

[David L Morse]

Must be a re-used picture on amazon, as their spec for this unit states "The product is a wireless remote switch with 30A relay." and the actual unit I have in hand says the same on the part in question.

You're right about the current rating. The relay in the picture is rated for 40A not 30A. The description has no HP rating. Does the one in your hand have a HP rating?

Note that the HP rating of a switch involves not just the operating current. The other big part of it is the turn off transient and associated arcing. The contacts need lots of material to withstand the losses during the arc (think EDM (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_discharge_machining)). There is also a spacing requirement to quickly snuff the arc to minimize those contact material losses.

[Jim Dwight]

This switch is not 220V but it works very well (at least so far) for my 120V HF DC. It could be used to trigger a relay to switch a 220V load.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F9DGRL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's cheap enough your total cost should be easily less than $50.

[Andy D Jones]

Jim,

Though you are safely using this switch to control a 120VAC motor, I want to make it clear that using it on a 220V motor is unsafe.

Both leads of a 220VAC circuit are each only 120VAC, relative to ground or neutral, so it would not be exceeding the voltage rating of the switch if you are only switching one lead of the 220V circuit.

From the CB/outlet, the two leads are 120VAC sine waves, 180 degrees out of phase, so they create 240VAC between the two leads.

However, it is generally considered unsafe to switch only one of the power leads for a 220V circuit, since the unswitched lead is still 120VAC, and still dangerous.

Under normal circumstances, once either 220V circuit lead is interrupted, the circuit is open, and the attached motor will stop.

However, under abnormal situations, (water, other contamination, insulation fault, etc.) the motor may continue to run, albeit with much less power/speed, which would destroy the motor (and potentially start a fire) if left running like that indefinitely.

As such, using that switch for turning on/off a 220V motor is unsafe.


Andy - Arlington TX
Retired Electrical Engineer
NOT a licensed electrician

[Jim Becker]

Andy, Jim clearly stated that he could use the 120v switch for the CONTROL side of a contactor (he used the term "trigger") which is both true and safe. At no time is that 120v switch directly connected to a 240v motor.