Best way to straighten long boards

[Curtis Tippin]

I'm trying to think through the best method to straighten 8ft or longer 2x lumber. I was originally going to build a sled (like a tapering jig) but think an 8ft long sled for this may be too large for me to work with. I then thought that I could just use a circular saw with an edge guide, which would wokr fine. I then saw a video last night where someone mimicked the "joint on a router" methods I've seen with a table saw by cutting an 1/8" strip out of a portion of the edge of a board and then using that as a sacrificial fence so that the part of the board behind the saw blade is 1/8" wider than the portion in front of the blade.

This last method seems to be the easiest method but I haven't seen any discussions online comparing the methods for straightening longer pieces so wanted to see if anyone had suggestions for considerations I should factor into my decision.

Thanks in advance for any comments!

[Cary Falk]

A flush trim router bit with a straight edge works as well.

[Mark Bolton]

+1 To Cary's solution. Leave the material stationary and rip a strip of (or use a good factory edge), clamp it to the work, and top bearing router bit.

[Richard Coers]

A flush trim router bit with a straight edge works as well.
A saw will be much faster if there is something like 1/2" or more to be removed from the 2x stock.

[andy bessette]

Best way to straighten the edge of rough lumber is with a track saw and long track.

[peter gagliardi]

Seems first thing we need to know is what is in your toolkit?
Hard to advise properly without knowing what is at your disposal.

[Tom M King]

No trouble at all straightening an 8' board on any length jointer.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have a Festool track saw and use that sometimes.

My other method, I bought a cheap melamine 8' shelf from Home Depot. I clamp my work piece to that and use the finished edge, of the shelf, against my table saw fence and get a good straight edge passing this through the table saw. Before I had a good size in feed and out feed tables, I use cheap support rollers.

[Curtis Tippin]

Thanks for all of the responses. I considered the router option but think that will take a long time and a number of passes and I don't have bits long enough to do 2x material unless in one pass. I don't have a jointer either, but I have a table saw, router and circular saw.

The melamine shelf idea is similar to the sled concept I have considered. How do you clamp the board down to the to shelf (did you turn the shelf into a sled with clamps built into it)? I guess I was thinking the sled concept needed to ride in the miter slot which was going to be difficult because I didn't want to cut 7+ long miter extensions into my out feed table, but just using the fence as suggested would avoid that issue.

[Darcy Warner]

8 feet really isn't long though.

[Ben Rivel]

Best way to straighten the edge of rough lumber is with a track saw and long track.
Heck yes!!!

[Darcy Warner]

Heck yes!!!

Actually the best way is a SLR or gang rip.

[Andrew More]

You also haven't specified if you're attempting to do this with the edge or face of the board.

[Mike Wilkins]

Gary's solution is a great idea. You could also use a straight 8 foot piece of plywood, double-stick tape the board to the plywood, and run the plywood against the rip fence.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Thanks for all of the responses. I considered the router option but think that will take a long time and a number of passes and I don't have bits long enough to do 2x material unless in one pass. I don't have a jointer either, but I have a table saw, router and circular saw.

The melamine shelf idea is similar to the sled concept I have considered. How do you clamp the board down to the to shelf (did you turn the shelf into a sled with clamps built into it)? I guess I was thinking the sled concept needed to ride in the miter slot which was going to be difficult because I didn't want to cut 7+ long miter extensions into my out feed table, but just using the fence as suggested would avoid that issue.

I drilled a few 1/4 holes in the melamine shelf, recessed the head of 1/4 bolts and used these type of clamps to hold the piece to be straightened. I'd adjust the fence position as necessary. I didn't use the miter slots, I just kept the edge of the melamine pressed hard up against the saw fence.

https://www.rockler.com/media/catalog/product/cache/ecd051e9670bd57df35c8f0b122d8aea/3/5/35283-01-1000_2.jpg

[Curtis Tippin]

Thanks, I'm going to give this a try.


I drilled a few 1/4 holes in the melamine shelf, recessed the head of 1/4 bolts and used these type of clamps to hold the piece to be straightened. I'd adjust the fence position as necessary. I didn't use the miter slots, I just kept the edge of the melamine pressed hard up against the saw fence.

[Joe Hendershott]

A track saw works great for me if there is no SLR. I use the table saw up to about 14 feet, which is the clearance I have on the outfeed. The track saw would be a good investment if you plan to use sheet material and do not have the space around the table saw, or if you are getting older (like me) and find it easier to not carry the sheets around. Plenty of threads about track saws here.

[kent wardecke]

I have a home made sled for smaller pieces. I think a track saw is in my future. For now I drilled holes in my aluminum straight edge and screw it to the board then run the straight edge against the fence. The screw holes in the wood are small and i haven't had problems with it harming the work piece

[Joe Calhoon]

We straight line ripped for many years on a Unisaw with this sled from Tage Frid’s book. It’s very simple and quick to use. The screw point at the front holds the wood and you just put pressure down at the back. I did glue a piece of sandpaper at the back to help hold.

423443

[Thomas McCurnin]

I have my lumber supplier joint my stock when I buy it.

If I have to do it at home, I use a chinsey old Delta jointer or a No. 7 Stanley. The No. 7 does the best job. If I’m lazy, I use the table saw and flip the board over and over again until it gets close. I can get within a 16th over 10 feet that way.